Why N54 Upgraded Turbo Will Fail
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2019
- turbolabofamerica.com/upgraded...
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One thing about stuff like this is that the customer doesn’t want to admit fault. I’ve seen way to many videos you posted and clearly your no slouch or con man. Good honest work. Keep it up. I’ll be getting some hx35 upgrades from you soon.
I bought a set of Turbos from you in January 2019. Running 18-20 psi boost on my N54 for 8,500 miles. I see Wide Open Throttle several times a day and red line a couple times per day. I use Liqui Moly 10W 30 oil from FCP Euro and no problems at all with the upgraded units that you sold me. Thanks for the explanation.
TheMortgageDoctor have you dyno the upgraded turbos yet?
are they still holding up in 2023?
Keep up the good work and thank you for the the input on the technical aspect of what is going on.
Thanks for the video!!! Good to know about oil weight - I’ll def buy heavier oil now for my stage 2+ car with original turbos
The main thing is achieving full operating temperatures before using the turbos under heavier demand.
One thing he seems to miss is the base oil stock is the second number. The initial lower first number is achieved when all additives are still present and utilized.
I bought my fbo 335i back off a friend and the oil temps were getting high, had a check through service history and they had put in 10w40 I changed it back to 5w30castrol and car now runs spot on n oil temps are great!
Awesome videos brother! I will be sending my n63 turbos to you soon
Running 3 pairs of your upgraded turbos on customers cars now, no issues. All cars are driven hard at 15-19psi. Customers usually use 5w30 or 5w40 oils, but I think only 40wt oils should be used because the oil temps are so high on these cars. Thanks for the videos
I have your turbos, but have no idea how old they are they looked relatively new when installed got them from a totaled car that was recently built by the looks of it I was told. I’ve been running two maps one that targets 20 psi and another that targets 22 psi on e50 and 5w40 weight oil which is thicker then the 10w30 you mentioned at temperature. I feel as tho if I bump it to 5w50 Amsoil or something along those lines these turbos should be okay with or without the upgrade. Now I’m not sure what to think about the setup, fortunately in a way my fuel system runs out of steam occasionally on the 22 psi map that I save as a kill map, so I might just use the e40 map from now on to play it a little safer which runs great. I think at e40-e50 I should be fine with a 5w40 especially a 5w50 weight oil at 20 psi or less.
I just upgraded the inlets (stock ECU) and the engine is running hotter. Your turbo behavior explanation is flawless, so i'll change my oil to 5w40 or 10w30 soon. Thanks a lot!
Go with 5w 40
I have been using 0-40 Castrol European formula oil for 15k miles no issues here in AZ.
Great job I need them done for 2013 bmw 550i
Thank you for your knowledge...
I enjoy your videos. I’m baffled why somebody would argue with a subject matter expert.🙄 people get into trouble and have problems when thinking THEY know things better.🤔 They don’t. Thank you turbo lab America for these videos! 😃
Ok 5w 30 and 10w 30 are the same weight in oil. "W" does not stand for weight it stands for WINTER. A 5w 30 is a 30 weight oil that will flow like a 5 weight when it's cold. If you want thicker oil you need a 40 weight. Im shocked people never know this
Listening to him talk about the oil made me want to beat my head against the wall. Lol
the W describes the viscosity of the oil at low temperatures
It stands for viscosity. The lower the number, the thinner the oil is at low temperatures.
@@supertreme5559 yes the number stands for the viscosity at low temps. The W stands for winter
I also wanted to leave a comment on this. I just had my neighbor wanting to 'teach' me the same bs last week lol.
You are great, genuine and a genius! I love it!
Need to watch oil viscosity on these engines. Though it may be great, bigger weights, but the rod and crank bearings have such close tolerances, you could literally destroy a motor.
The "w" in motor oil stands for winter. The first number in the oil classification refers to a cold weather viscosity. The lower this number is, the less viscous your oil will be at low temperatures. For example, a 5W- motor oil will flow better at lower temperatures than a 15W- motor oil.
But a 0w40 and a 15w40 are both the same viscosity when at operating temp.. a 40 weight is thicker then a 30 weight.
I've run my n54 on 0/30 for 14 years , the 0 part is to get to the turbo's quickly when cold , 30 when hot , that's how oil works , the 10 is going to get there later in the cold , I have a Cobb access port giving 18/19 lbs boost for 6 years no prob , if and when my turbo's go I wouldn't bother getting them upgraded , I would have new upgraded and bigger one's fitted instead. I'm from the UK and the weather doesn't get to hot mostly.
Thank you for making this video, but I'm not sure you are right on the motor oil weight. The first number is the oils viscosity when cold. so 0 weight is less viscus than 10 weight at 70 deg. F, but when the engine and turbos are hot 250+ deg the viscosity modifiers in the oil cause it to thicken and protect like the higher weight 30, 40 or 50. If your argument is the hotter turbo will break down the oil quicker, then you should be referencing the higher number. I agree with you on a higher weight for better turbo thermal protection, but the Vanos passageways in these engines are really small and a thicker oils have shown to cause issues. This is especially likely when running anywhere close to the BMW recommended service intervals. I don't drive my 168,XXX mile modified 535i hard, but never go more than 7,500 miles between changes (this is 1/2 of the BMW recommended service interval). Best wishes with your product as there is a need.
Jeff Sloane refer to an oil weight chart so you can chose. 5w40 should be the best choice
Would you be interested in upgrading bearings, compressor and turbine for a GT15? Taurus Ecoboosts continously have oil leaking, bad bearings and shaft play. They are short lived about 10-20k miles. No one seems to have an answer for us yet.
Why not 5w-40 or even 0w-40? It's the second number that applies when the oil is warmed up. 10w oils are very thick and resistant to flow when cold. 0w-40 is far less prone to thinning out with increased temperature than 10w-30. My old 335i is still going strong with upgraded turbos running 17psi flat after about 35,000km now with 0w-40. I agree too high boost kills these turbos, both from thrust load and overspeed.
Brad Smith Yep. Well said. He totally lost the credibility with his misunderstanding of multigrade oil numbers. It's all to common and quite normal but he went on to explain "why" related to the heat of the turbos which made the misunderstanding even worse.
5w40 seems like the best choice according to the oil charts online, it depends on the temperatures the car gets operated in
Turbo Lab America There's only 2 things to choose with oils: The operating temp viscosity (the second number) and the cold (starting) temperature (the first number. That first number should be as low as possible in any climate. The only reason we see such a wide spread in multigrade numbers these days is the modern synthetic oil technologies. Charts for older engines only really apply to oils available at the time.
The engine operating temperature value has nothing to do with ambient environment temperature and the correct oil viscosity rating is according to the manufacture. Once an engine warms up there should be minimal fluctuations in temperature. You'll get hot spots but that can not be "solved" with a "thicker" oil.
If an engine is running too hot then the engine has a cooling problem and changing the operating viscosity of your oil will not change that. And in BMW engines going outside the manufacturer spec can affect both the internal hydraulics operation and the oil flow characteristics.
The only way an oil viscosity can be responsible for damage to an engine is if the cold grade is not low enough for the ambient temperature (your climate and season) or if the "operating temp" grade is too high or too low.
@@DiscoFangit looks like he’s in a colder climate, 10w might be his colloquial equivalent to 5w for folks in mild climates
Great episode subscribed
I've had Stage 2 Pure turbos running 27psi since 2017 and zero issues. Change the oil ever 4k miles do you maintenance and you'll be fine. They are 650 whp. ZERO turbo issues.
Thank you.
What does it take to get you to respond to emails/contacts from your website? I've tried 3 or so times now and have since given up.
Can you convert a gt2560 to ball bearing? I’ve had a hybrid built being journal bearing but if possible I’d want to convert to a BB cage
good work man, screw those stubborn people. people like you are the reason this world has any chance at all!
Post your videos of your 335xi
Good knowledge.
I bought you n54 turbo repair kit and the mechanic had to pull out again after installed and buy the oem installation orings because he said the ones on the kit were too thin.
They don’t work just dont put them on the kit
been running 5w40 for 9000 miles at 19 psi with 17t china turbos. just pulled the turbos to replace the gates, was gonna rebuild them but they had no shaft play so i left them alone.
Will this kit work on upgraded chinese 17t/19t?
In intend on purchasing one or the other and wanna rebuild and balance them before install
Hi good evening Have you bought a revision set for the n54 turbo.s bmw how much should be turned out of the house on the video can you explain to me how much greet dennis
any kit you can recommend for the stock turbo that doesnt need any machining due to the enlarged thrust collar??
Just sent you a message on FB about the rebuild service!
Can the bearing housing be machined or dremeled out at home to fit that bigger bearing? Has anyone else been able to do this with sending it out to a machine shop?
You are the man ! 💯💪☝
Im not sure if your correct with our oil statement.... it doesnt matter if its 0w40 5w40 or 10w40, they are all the same when hot, which matters for boost anyway, so if your saying too thin oil is bad for your turbos, which is correct, going from 10w40 to 10w30 makes your oil thinner at operation temperature but stays the same at coldstart.. rather go with something like 5w50 or even 10w60 if running high boost.
5w40 is good over 100 degrees f, I didn’t realize that. It seems like the widest range choice. It depends on the temperatures that you plan to operate the car
I always like to watch your educating videos and usually I have nothing to add. In this episode I think I can give you some advice on engine oils. To me it seems you do not fully understand the numerical code system grading engine oils. So here is how it goes "In a 5W-30 for example, the number before the W describes the viscosity of the oil at low temperatures. The lower the number, the thinner the oil and the better the oil’s cold temperature/ cold start performance. The number after the W describes how thick the oil is at the engine’s normal operating temperature" This means you do not use 5W30 or 10W30 in high performance engines, because they run hot and 10W30 becomes very thin and do not protect engine components. These thin oils are designed to improve engine emissions to meet higher green standards at a cost of engine lifespan. SO DO NO use 10W30 engine oil use 5W50 at minimum with turbo engine. I run my jetta 1,8t engine with 10W60 oil and it has your K04 turbo bearing upgrade kit in it :) Runs smooth as silk and I do not have to worry about little extra heat. Keep up the good videos Austin!
I have heard this before. Several years ago, I noticed that people would use 5w oil in the winter, every time summer came the turbo would fail. I have a hard time choosing my oil weight because the temperature where I am ranges from 0F to 100F. The oil weight should be chosen based on ambient temperature. My first Bmw had a guide in the manual on which weight oil to use per the temperature, but my e90 never had that. It seems like we have to use higher weight to compensate for higher heat applied from higher boost.
i live in tropical climate and had two spun bearings. i think it is because of 5w30 oil that had used. switched to 20w50. that doesnt even smell like motor oil. i have read somewhere that oils are having less zinc stuff these days to keep cat live longer.
Correct, the 5 before the W is the cold rating, when tuned a N54 needs at least 5W40 or 5W50... 10W60 isn't good either, too thick oil at cold temps for the turbo.
the hotside aint holding till red line anyway...take it easy with the baby mitsi ... run 20 on the stock turbo if you wanna break things got yah
Shouldnt have to refund people who clearly installed the product wrong.
It was the easiest way to get them to stock calling asking the same questions
I've been in that situation many times, it's better to get rid of problem customers as quick as possible
iam at 90k miles,on my 335i, wondering when the upgrade will be due
Can you explain how the oil gets into the trust bearing? I guess the oil gets through the tiny hole that goes to the center? And is there an up and down side of the trust bearing because the oil will flow naturally in the direction of gravity
The oil travels through the holes above the collar. There are 2 oil holes in the bearing that go to lubricate the collar and spacer
@@turbolabamerica thanks. How does that oil get into the bearing loaded bearing? Can you explain in it one of your next video's please?
My 17Ts hybrid turbos are throwing blue smoke from exhuast after a minute of cold start. Runing 22psi boost. What do you think the issue is?
how much for rebuilt turbos shipped to Vancouver Canada I wonder
Where are you located?
Crap! I've been running the 0w-20 but I'm usually running stock settings. Im high mileage so next oil change I'll put in the 10w-30. I heard that you can't get too thick because of the tiny oil passages in the block. Is that just a myth?
I’m not sure, go with the weight recommendation by ambient temperature. I switched to 5w40
Do you see many boost solenoids failing? I fitted new turbos and did all my vacuum lines and I’ve still got damn wastegate rattle
Rattling at startup is normal because they are closing but it shouldn’t rattle for long.
I bought the X0017 J6BX9 rebuild kits from you. Do they have the upgraded thrust parts? I have not installed them yet. Also my kit's don't have any O-rings, do you know what sizes they are?
If not I can send them to do. Can you email me a pic of tge rebuilds kits or send a message on amazon
Question... I upgraded my turbos to VTT Stage 2 and they required high zinc/high phosphorous oil to keep the warranty on the turbos. So I started using Brad Penn 20w-50 partial synthetic. I live in Dallas, so the temperature runs relatively hot and I haven't seen any problems. However, in your estimation, how necessary are high zinc/high phosphorous oils when running around 24 lbs of boost?
That’s usually related to the steel thrust bearing used, I don’t know what he used but the copper bar one works with any oil as long as the weight is sufficient.
@@turbolabamerica How about a bronze thrust bearing?
On my car i put thicker oil and it started smoking because my oil pressure increased on idle
Do you have any rebuild kit for a PT6262 ball bearing turbo?
Precision 6262 6266 6466 Gen 1 Gen 2 Ball Bearing Rebuild Kit czcams.com/video/Q3Z60KpOF0g/video.html watch the video so you are sure to get which one you need. The links are in the description box there.
What oil should i use ? Im running fbo mhd stage2+ n54 oem stock turbos. Currently on 0-40 Castrol edge.
If it's the European formula you should be good to go.
Setting up a draw through turbo system on a old air cooled vw and I’m trying to figure out a carbon seal setup....if you could help me with that please let me know thanks
I need to rebuild some turbos for a n54 can you contract with me please
I thought you were racing mustangs
do you know if the latest 17T/19T chinese turbos have the same issues?
They do. I’m almost done with my video on them and the fix
Rotella T6 is 5w-40, can I use this oil year round with 20psi max on stock turbos? In Chicago
I say hell yeah....👍 I live near Cleveland Ohio I run it (Rotella T) in my Saturn sky that I drive winter, spring, summer, and fall.... no issues.... granted it's not a BMW but I do have a Turbocharger that Austin machined to install a larger turbine and compressor wheels with upgraded collars in the rebuild kit. ...
Chris at Motiv has been running T6 for years on a 750whp ST. I run liquimoly. Use what you like. Change often
I use Rotella 5w-40 on my tune/bolt on stock turbo car and it really handles the heat well and my oil temperature is always low and stable. In winter i like to run Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40. Its another great oil choice that can handle the all year round very well. I live in NY which goes from 30f-100f between winter and summer days
So I purchased your upgraded Turbos about two years ago and I haven’t had a single problem with them thankfully. I currently run 50% E85 and I do run it to 20lbs(far from all the time). Are you saying that those parts you put in 2 years ago will fail at 20? I also have been running 0w-40 Mobile One for its whole life...sounds like it now needs to go to 10w-30 full synthetic...?
Paul B if you’re not running “Full” synthetic in a BMW then you are just like the customer he’s talking about. 🙄
I think it’s 22 psi that kills them because that’s what one of my customers that builds the cars has reported. I run 18 psi for 2 years and it has been fine. I would bump up the weight but it depends on temperature where the motor operates. If you do have issues I will exchange a set for no cost to you
Great info and diagnosis.. until you started talking about the oil. Totally wrong and a misunderstanding of multigrade oil viscosity numbers.
People always think the W stands for weight ....its Winter people , " I'm running a 5w30 but need thicker oil so I'll get a 10w30..." Lol sure
@@JDJD-mw9rr Why 10w 30? I got told 5w 30 is the best. Or out of those two. My BMW 335i 2008 is stock but I want to get the Precision Raceworks Ignition Kit.
@@stormfam4779 10w30 and 5w30 are both 30weight oils. The only thing that's different is how they act when its cold. A 5w will act like a 5weight when cold so it will be thinner than the 10w that acts like a 10weight when cold. If you live in a place where it gets below 50 degrees then ya use 5w30. If you want a thicker oil you need 5w40
How can I contact you for a set of turbos? Do you have a set upgraded and ready to ship and yall do a core charge/swap? About to order a set of pure stage 2s, but won't be boosting over 20psi.....
So I'm wondering which is more worth it PLUS THE PRICE. Looking for reliability & Longevity, but a little bit more at 18lbs than the stockers can handle.
Calvin James turbolabamerica@gmail.com or 2766922900 we have a set completed on hand. The upgrade you chose should be based on the hp rating. The upgrade we do make 550 hp at 24 psi on one of my customers cars and max at 600
I think my turbos are leaking with 5w-40 oil. Should I just change the oil or drop the sub frame and look for the oil leak ?
You should look for the cause of oil leakage. 5w40 is thicker oil than 5w30, and thicker oil would be harder to leak out from seals than thinner oil.
Or maybe 5w40 just killed your turbo.
GL.
how much would it cost if i sent in my turbos to be rebuilt? it has pretty bad wastegate rattle and are on 103k miles
We do the rebuild and wastegate repair for 650 for both
Please email me about the 20T turbo upgrade
Fir the 3Kgt?
Looking to buy a 2017 540i I believe it's a b58 engine. Have you come across any turbo failures in these models?
I don’t think that one is turbo charged
40i is b58 which is the new gen n55, definitely turbocharged
The Motorsport Archives yup no v8s no more in those
I had my 09 335i turbos upgraded by you guys and and had no issues. I was running 26psi and have ran up to 30psi. This produced 523whp and 521lbft of torque. I would have made much more ,but was limited on fuel and intercooler size. After 1 year of having the turbos upgraded, one failed and this was not to your guy's negligence. It was just because of running the turbos out of their limits. If anyone knows and understands turbo chargers, then they will understand it's not your fault when it fails. Too many guys are out here running turbo vehicles and think they are drivers and tuners and have no clue! Anyhow, I've been trying to get a hold of you so I can get, the turbos for my X5 xdrive50i upgraded. I do need to know if you have the upgrade for the rear wheel?
AV did you get 523 at the wheels or estimated at the crank and was that done at 26 psi or 30 psi? Can you elaborate on the spool and any lag versus the stock turbos?
Any chance you could share the dyno sheet? Thx
Hey man, could you upgrade my turbos for my N54 F02 740LI? I have been looking everywhere for a set of upgraded turbos for my car but I can’t find anything.
Alan womack the 7 series n54 have plastic inlets, I have a set of these turbos. I can sleeve them to upgrade them but you will need to change your intakes
Turbo Lab America can you tell me everything I’d need to think about replacing if we go about doing it? I’m not too knowledgeable, I’m learning this as I go. I try to read and absorb every little piece of info I can.
Alan womack ecs tuning has a good article about the removal and install on the 3 series, it will be similar to your car because the motor is similar but with a few variations
What if my car is stock?
The stock one is less likely to have this problem because the compressor wheel isn’t as heavy
I have Vargas stage 1 turbos do they have same issues as stock ?
I’m not aware of this turbo build so I don’t know what to tell you
get MHD or another monitoring software and never run your turbos hard if they're less than 160-180 F. They will have problems like the OEM turbos as far as shelf life/health of the turbos if you run them too hard
W doesn’t stand for weight in oil.
Im in the twilight zone right now.
Hold on let me go get a lathe so I can replace my turbos.
0W-40 Castrol Edge is the way to go on the N54.
LOL.....seriously ?.....Castrol Edge couldn't keep a slip n slide lubed on a rainy day.....Pure Synthetic is what the Manufacturer recommends , and i dont want to ruin your relationship with castrol edge's rainy day slip n slide disaster , but Castrol Edge is a second rate synthetic blend brody......if you were using that while the car was under warranty and something internal on the engine failed , your choice of oil would void your warranty......have a great day.
@@mattriella6776 then why do BMW recommend it ? I've run 0/30 ( recommended ) for 14 years with no oil based problems , I'm going to move up to 0/40 as the miles go on. I've never heard anyone else slag castrol off.
Sorry but no. Ran 23 psi on stock turbos for nearly 4 years and on 5w oil. The problems are probably down to trying to run too much boost with not enough supporting mods, not enough octane and a bad tune.
It matters for the upgraded turbos because the wheel is heavier.
Just want to confirm, does this kit replace everything in the turbos that is failure prone? Mine are smoking badly and this seems like a good route to go. Will this fix the seals?
The turbine shafts sometimes need to be replaced because of the wear from where the piston ring sits. We have 9 blade upgraded drop in turbines for them we can also balance out the assembly for you with stock or upgraded wheels
Do u have a Instagram or something how can I get ahold of you
We have an instagram, I don’t run that channel but have someone here that does. turbolabofamerica.com/contact-us/
Hmm🤔🤔🤔 I drive 335i n54 lci with 550 PS,,, I have 10w60 oil... Perfekt... Never problems... 19psi - 32psi... Pvc Ventil, low themp Thermostat and so on...
For how long 🤔
You did do the preventive maintenance/mods.. that is important like your oil weight, pcv, lower temp oil thermostat. Lol
@@MasterShake1242 225k km and more...
@@mxracingunlimitedltd7784 lol?
Hey dude if your reading this you need to reply to emails and comments regarding potential work opportunities. I have no doubt that that your business could do much better. I have tried emailing you and leaving comments regarding pricing and questions as others have done but I have not heard anything from you. My suggestion, if you're too busy get somebody to do it for you. Can't run a business if you don't have customers.
I would rather replace turbos than end up with a spun bearing
There are people using 20w50, I think that is excessive5w40 seems to be the best choice for my temperatures based on the oil temperature charts online
Turbo Lab America what oil do you reccomend for N20 motor in miami hit weather? Its on 120K miles.
Thanks
Best Oil for N54 its 5W60
To thick for rod and crank bearings. Prob why e60 eats rod bearings.
You need to tell more people to pound dirt
There isn’t enough dirt for the amount of people I deal with that need to pound it
side to side play? bad brand new turbos
Go single turbo why upgraded twins
Some people dont want to go single turbo cause of smog issues, cant pass smog with a big turbo there and some people dont know any hot smog places. Also some people dont want to go for max hp, also turbo lag, some people dont want that big turbo lag compared to the quicker spool up of the twin turbos
Buddy we run 0W-40 here in Canada.... does that mean we are fucked haha.
I'm a 20 year retired master and this is why I got out of the service industry. There is no shared accountability in today's culture. The customer is NOT always right.
Ali Express Turbo
N54 Power Chinese coil packs
@@thersabugonmytv intercooler from Ali its copy from Wagner Evo1, its good, Turbo Kit from Ali, i see
I appreciate the information but it isn't backed up by any real-world testing or wear and tear comparison. You're failing to address that 10w30 is fine in climates that exceed 0F and above. You can not run that motor oil in your N54, stock or tuned, in anything below 0F degrees. People continue to argue the fact that 5w40 is better for our motor but our motor was designed with 5w30 for a reason. Same thing as replacing your stock diverter valves with a blow off valve, you end up messing with the intake recirculation and the way your DME operates. yeah it can adjust, but why stress it in a way that it wasn't made to work?
Anyway, for those looking for a peace of mind I suggest running high quality 5w30 oil such as Liqui Moly, and upgrading your existent or investing in a aftermarket oil cooler with a 185f thermostat. Your oil will be the specified 5w30 and will run at an appropriate temperature.
Finally, I know some will bash this and throw numbers at me, It's my opinion and experience and comparison. Do what you want with your N54 but what I recommend, especially if it's your daily, is to keep it a nice OEM setup. If your turbos blow, replace them with oem units. If your valvecover cracks/warps replace it with an oem unit. Don't mess with the PCV system, don't upgrade the turbos, you'll only cause more wear and tear on surrounding components that will eventually fail.
Anyway, I can keep rambling on but I wish nothing but the best for your setups and figured id offer my 2 cents.
Cheers guys, keep on boosting.
Leandro Yes indeed. Both the clearances and the hydraulic control systems within the engine depend on a particular viscosity as a part of their design & correct function.
That is why no one will remember your name...
Common sense isn't as common as youd think. We have to cater for the dumbest in society.
With each sale, it's worth including a flyer stating tips, do's and don'ts.
My guy at the build quality of the turbo is bad the turbo didn’t even last 300 miles you can still see the turbo is in brand new condition.
mean people need to read a really cool book bible be a start n Jesus can fix it life is good after a bit of truth ,,
Oil viscosity has absolutely nothing to do with seals leaking bud.
That is completely wrong. Coming from the Mazdaspeed3 comunity, we use a heavier weight oil with the K04 turbo for this very reason, when running higher boost and using upgraded intake and downpipe. The factory weight oil of 5W30 in most cases will blow by the seals far more easily and also get more fuel dilution from increased cylinder pressure. Upgrading to a 5W40 mitigates or stops turbo seal blow by because it is harder to push thicker material through the same size orifice. Basic fluid mechanics.
@@thricehybrid no its not the manufacture recommends a oil for good reason, i repair and upgrade hundreds of turbos fir BMW and Mazda plus many others. Putting a stock rebuild kit in any used turbo is a total waste of time, they are worn out and nedd over size bearing and seals and you don't have customers returning work and crying at you. Do the job properly, oil leaks cause the job isnt done right
@@thricehybrid adopting a attitude of " didnt like the customer and got sick of him so gave his money back" then condemn his on CZcams is a piss poor look for your business.
@@stevemurch6974 OEM recommendations are just that, recommendations not gospel. Everything they tune from factory is for fuel mileage and value of service. Running a heavier weight will affect your mileage. They also suggest you don't ever upgrade your car, and only ever use them for all your servicing needs. You need to realize they are companies, and don't have your needs or feelings at heart, they want to make money like anyone else. Since you say you've rebuilt Mazda turbos before (Borg Warner is the OEM manufacturer) then you know the 270 degree thrust bearings are prone to blowing oil passed them even on a completely stock motor with nothing done to them. There was even a free extended warranty in place for all the K04 turbos between the Speed3/Speed6/CX7 that uses the MZR DISI engine. It got to the point where actual Mazda service techs were recommending running a heavier weight oil to limit or prevent oil blow by.
This isn't made up either, a quick google search will bring up many posts on different forums citing the exact same thing.
Does that negate the fact that a larger bearing and collar should be used? No, clearly a larger collar should be used for it to be done correctly the first time. But using a heavier weight oil is not uncommon or unheard of in any performance application.
His professional "business" skills might be lacking but his products are good, knowledge is good, prices are good. if the rebuild kits are out of spec ( if the chra was sent in) he will contact the customer and let them know its worthless or machine it to fit something else. he also doesn't have any control over what people do with his rebuild kits and upgraded rebuild kits (customers might be trying to rebuild junk). the products are good, I know a few people that have his finished products in use and everyone is happy with the work including myself. he never specifies who the customer is so one has any idea who it is. no it isn't the best practice to bring the customer up at all but instead just make a video about said issue. Give the guy credit, he is providing a wealth of knowledge free, his work is really good and his prices are good. If I stop being cheap and purchase a newer car (something with audis 4.0TT motor) ill be sending him those expensive (imo) RS7 turbos if he is willing to rebuild and machine them for a bigger wheel (if that is even an option)