How to make RC Crawler links, No Lathe Needed!
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- Do it at your own risk!!! Be sure to have expirence with the tools and materials you use before following this tutorial.
An exprimental project turned out very sucessful and ended up making a full set for my custom build. so here is a tutorial of how to do so. also its a pretty useful skill for any custom builder and anyone who wants to save a buck.
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Timestamp:
00:00 Intro
00:10 Tools you will need
01:45 Measuring your link length
02:47 Cutting and "turning" your links
07:15 Tapping your links with a die
09:44 Finish and Install
_________________________________________ - Věda a technologie
Great DIY project for those of us that just love to build their own - thank you for taking the time to put together a great video. Great job!
Great idea!
8-32 steel all-thread is another great material. Screws into the 4mm plastic rods. Easy to cut and bend to prototype your own high clearance links, and plenty strong and suitable as a final part if you cover the exposed threaded area with heat shrink/hard plastic tube for looks and some slideability.
I like to use some alloy tubing to cover the threads afterwards, looks sick and is the easiest job ever.
I have done something similar but slide 1/4 brake line over the all thread. I landed a jump wrong and completely broke one of the plastic rod ends off...my home made link was just fine...
@Cloudy0w0 what size and type of tubing do you cover the all thread with
It'll do that's for sure. Some advice for DIYers, be certain that the metal that you are cutting the thread on is ALL correct diameter or slightly less, never bigger. If you get near the end and haven't kept that diameter correct, you could either damage the thread cutting die, and or snap off the piece you're working on.
4mm all thread with a sleeve made of 5mm OD-4mm ID stainless tubing works well too.
Carbon fiber arrow shafts will work too for lightweight applications. They are hollow so you need to make a part that fits inside the arrow shafts that is threaded for the link end
Thanks for sharing this great tutorial my friend! Really enjoy & love the build your own parts. Save more money. Liked & subbed! Hope to see more of your work😁👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great DIY watched it over and over good job 👋👋👋👋👋👋👋🎈🎈🎈🎈🎉🎉🎉🎉✌✌✌
Heck of a lot easier to just cut them to length, drill the ends, tap them, and insert the thread rods from the axial ends kit. Or do like I do, and just buy a piece of grade 5 threaded rod and cut the inserts yourself. I've built about 15 rigs doing it this way.
Your way works, but getting the grind correct without causing a weak point at the end of the grind is gonna take some practice.
I need a set for a losi night crawler. Have u by chance made any for that crawler yet?
good job bro. the drill is brilliant.
More advice for DIYers. I forgot this part. The recommended method for decent threads is to open up the cutting die a little using the screws in the die handle. That means releasing the two side screws and screwing in the central one a bit. Not all thread dies are split, some are solid, so you can't do it with those. But the split ones allow you to make a start cut and then a finishing cut by releasing the center screw and nipping up all screws lightly against the die. With a split die ou could even deliberately make the thread smaller than normal by doing the opposite and tightening the side screws before the center screw.
Nice, I did this last night. Saw the video today lol
Awesome video!
It's much easier using aluminium tube and stainless steel allthread. I use 6mm OD by 4mm ID aluminium tube and 4mm stainless allthread. Cut the tube to length using a tubing cutter. Cut the allthread to length with a small hacksaw and clean up the ends with a file. Insert the allthread into the aluminium tube and thread your rod ends onto the ends. If you want to put bends into the link (for steering link or high clearance lower links) the completed link can be bent with a simple brake line bending tool. Simplicity itself!!.
Ive been looking for some for my Losi Night Crawler. I think having somebody make them is the only option.
Aluminum sticks to rocks, stainless slides
Nice guide! Since I got a 24 scale crawler, I was thinking i could use brass pipes and link joints from an aluminium set. Drill small holes and thread them. Then join them with pieces of threaded rod. I'm concerned the aluminium links are too small and fragile though.
Nice rc
Thank you sir...
Thank you
参考になりました👍🇯🇵
Im finding it VERY difficult to start my threads. Im using a 4mmx0.5 die with 4mm stainless with a taper on the end. May just give up on making my own and dealing with the stock links on the trucks.
Thanks
11:01 YT-0134BU Aluminum Shock Shaft Pliers
You haven't tried the latest Makita 18V 1/2 drill.... a little velcro works as a trigger lock ;)
I've made parts for repairs using a cordless drill and cordless dremel.
What size in MM is the thicker rod
I have both but my Dewalt is not happy about what you said in the beginning
Great work! Thinking about Titanium rod for this.
Titanium is a pig to work on, it will even resist your grinding disc, and you'll need to make the diameter for thread cutting even smaller than recommended for steel. Cheap threading dies will most likely be blunt or chipped after the first attempt, and you'll need proper high quality threading grease to lubricate the components.
I did it with Titanium Grade 5. Works good, but you need to be patient.
@@wordreet Thank You!
@@danielkonrad1444 Congrats brother. thank you.
Hey man, great video! Could you tell me where did you got your u-joint drive shafts?
The center drive shafts are vanquish incision ones
Great tutorial!
I thought that the links have opposite threads on each end, when I replaced some on my Capra, I found one side was normal threads and the other side was left handed threads.
Not necessarily, opposite threads are useful for fine adjustment on tierods of individual suspension vehicles for toe/camber, not really a consideration for crawler links. Axial started doing it after they were bought up by horizon, not sure why really there are no real advantages. For me it just adds confusion and complexity for no reason.
@@CRCG_00 ok thanks, was curious because my Capra had it, I am now looking to convert my trx4 to a trx6 and the links from Traxxas have been backorder for a while, so thought I will try an make some
I like your style but how strong is that aluminum? Drilling out the link and using a grub screw is a lot stronger. Iv done what your doing props
It's stainless steel so much stronger than aluminium.
@@CRCG_00 ahhh ok that makes sense. Nicely done gos to show you can do a lot with a few tools an jigs.
What axials are u running
Scx10iii straight axles
I never heard you say what size die you used to thread it
The threads are M4
@@CRCG_00 thank you !
You dont need a grinder. You are more likely to take to much material off. Just hold a file against it while the drill is running.
I did experiment with using files, but it takes about 4 times longer to do and it also put alot more strain and wear on the chuck/bearings of the drill.
It sure does, I can confirm it makes your chuck wobbly and yeah, takes about 2hrs on stainless, but if thats all you have it still gets the job done.
What axles are those 😮?
Those are SCX 10 III straight axles
Очень сложно и долго. Намного быстрее и проще делать из трубок и готовых резьбовых стержней.
I have tried threded rods before but they arent as strong as solid stainless links, also putting bends in threded rod w/ tubes are much harder and usually end up with ugly kinked tubes.
Cool but a week later I can just buy a set lol
Too complicated and requires a lot of tools. Cheaper from China to order ready-made. It will be cheaper and faster.
No lathe needed...Just a drill, in a vice...that acts as a lathe...
That's the point!
Too much talk...