I am glad you are okay. Thank you for warning people. They sell bits for drilling plastic. Oddly the angle on plastic bits is much pointier. Drill bits that can slip in the chuck might be safer than the ones with the three flats on them--in this one case. There are other issues drilling plastic. It's good to know how brittle the plastic is. For instance, plexiglass/acrylic/perspex is very brittle, and if it should break, it's edges can be sharp enough to make a cutting edge. Think: prison shank. : ) Plastic gets got and expands grabbing onto things. This expansion also causing things such as the Apple G4 Cube or aircraft canopies to break even if you look at them wrong. Often holes are drilled a bit large for this reason. The expansion in plastic can make fitted parts--not fit right. When using a drill press, the operator must always be aware of the direction of rotation. For instance parts held with even vice grips can cam out much easier one way over another. A Fostner-type woodworking bit might drill that in one go. Obviously, you still have to be careful. When drilling hockey-pucks for machine feet, I found that while the drilling went really fast, so did the drillings/curls which quickly became an unmanageable mess, which in-did not break, but climbed the bit. [czcams.com/video/NIKTbloomnQ/video.html} When drilling Delrin/Acetal, it's still good to remember that all the while, it's releasing formaldehyde. I also think the plastic is UMWPE or HDPE.
Great advice. I would add that using any sharp tool on plastics can catch you off guard. I was once cutting a bezel for a floppy drive and needed a square hole for the push button. I used a new, very sharp knife on the polypropylene I was using to make the bezel, pressing hard into the plastic to form the square edges. I slipped, and 28 stitches across four fingers later, I learned a hard lesson.
Looks like HDPE. Done that, been there. Neat solution to dull the drill bits. I will try to remember for next time I drill plastic. Thank you for sharing.
Nice tip about dulling the edge. Also I think you need to use very slow cutting speeds for plastic and brass. The final bits we used to call cone cutters.
In the machine shop we call it "Dubing" the drill. Drilling into any soft metal like lead or plastics, grinding the cutting edge off or square is needed to keep the drill bit from "Hogging in". Carl
I'm very familiar with the problem, but I'd never seen this solution. You can bet what I'm going to try the next time I drill a largish hole in soft material. Thanks!
Defiantly the video to watch first. Anyone that says they've never done something silly is kidding themselves. Working with anything like this you always need to think of the worst that can happen. Especially when you have kids walking around. About 40 years ago my metal shop teacher showed us a photo of a victim that had their scalp ripped off by a drill press. I'm so grateful to him for embedding safety into my brain for life.
I am glad you are okay. Thank you for warning people.
They sell bits for drilling plastic. Oddly the angle on plastic bits is much pointier. Drill bits that can slip in the chuck might be safer than the ones with the three flats on them--in this one case.
There are other issues drilling plastic. It's good to know how brittle the plastic is. For instance, plexiglass/acrylic/perspex is very brittle, and if it should break, it's edges can be sharp enough to make a cutting edge. Think: prison shank. : )
Plastic gets got and expands grabbing onto things. This expansion also causing things such as the Apple G4 Cube or aircraft canopies to break even if you look at them wrong. Often holes are drilled a bit large for this reason. The expansion in plastic can make fitted parts--not fit right.
When using a drill press, the operator must always be aware of the direction of rotation. For instance parts held with even vice grips can cam out much easier one way over another.
A Fostner-type woodworking bit might drill that in one go. Obviously, you still have to be careful. When drilling hockey-pucks for machine feet, I found that while the drilling went really fast, so did the drillings/curls which quickly became an unmanageable mess, which in-did not break, but climbed the bit.
[czcams.com/video/NIKTbloomnQ/video.html}
When drilling Delrin/Acetal, it's still good to remember that all the while, it's releasing formaldehyde.
I also think the plastic is UMWPE or HDPE.
Great advice. I would add that using any sharp tool on plastics can catch you off guard. I was once cutting a bezel for a floppy drive and needed a square hole for the push button. I used a new, very sharp knife on the polypropylene I was using to make the bezel, pressing hard into the plastic to form the square edges. I slipped, and 28 stitches across four fingers later, I learned a hard lesson.
I did not realize that all my drill bits were for brass and plastic! ;)
"Where's my drill vice?", counts fingers. Thanks. Been there.
Step index bits, greatest thing since sliced bread!
Looks like HDPE. Done that, been there. Neat solution to dull the drill bits. I will try to remember for next time I drill plastic. Thank you for sharing.
6/32's wow, do you mean 3/16th's
Interesting. Thanks for the tips!
Nice tip about dulling the edge. Also I think you need to use very slow cutting speeds for plastic and brass. The final bits we used to call cone cutters.
And iv heard of people using dish soap to lubricate the bit and help it cut more smoothly
In the machine shop we call it "Dubing" the drill. Drilling into any soft metal like lead or plastics, grinding the cutting edge off or square is needed to keep the drill bit from "Hogging in". Carl
Thanks. haven't heard that term
I'm very familiar with the problem, but I'd never seen this solution. You can bet what I'm going to try the next time I drill a largish hole in soft material. Thanks!
Hey there. Awesome video. Do you mind sharing a link where I can buy the plastic, dulled drill bits?
Just wondering why you didn't bolt your vice to the table using the slots in the table that are there for just that purpose.
I do use the t-slot for some things. a clamp is faster and more flexible most of the time
the best also would be a manual drill or use a bechtop drill on low speed
That's hdpe also known as Teflon
Teflon is PTFE
skip to 3 min.
Defiantly the video to watch first. Anyone that says they've never done something silly is kidding themselves. Working with anything like this you always need to think of the worst that can happen. Especially when you have kids walking around. About 40 years ago my metal shop teacher showed us a photo of a victim that had their scalp ripped off by a drill press. I'm so grateful to him for embedding safety into my brain for life.
Skip to 1:50.
Get to the point! Next!
Way too long-winded. Gave up after 3 minutes!