Bilstein B14 PSS Coilovers Install Mk7 GTI MQB
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- How to install Bilstein B14 PSS coilovers on my Mk7 Golf GTI. This is a very similar process to installing lowering springs with the exception of needing to remove the rear fender liners to remove the stock dampers. Coilovers give you the additional feature of height adjustnment. The Bilstein B14 Coilovers allow you to adjust the ride height between a 30-50mm drop from the stock ride height.
I didn't mind the drop of my 034 Dynamic+ Lowering springs (or the ride), but Brynn complained that the car was too bouncy. I decided I would give these Bilsteins a shot because I had heard they ride really well and I have to say after a few hundred miles these truly have out-shined the stock/lowering spring setup.
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Torque Specs:
Front:
-Knuckle bolt 70nm (52ft-lbs) +90 degrees
-Swaybar endlink nut 65nm (46ft-lbs)
-Axle triple squares 60nm (44ft-lbs)
-Top strut bolts 15nm (12ft-lbs) +90 degrees
Rear:
-Upper strut bolts 50nm (37ft-lbs) +45 degrees
-Swaybar endlink 20nm (15ft-lbs) +180 degrees
-Lower strut bolt 70nm (52ft-lbs) +180 degrees
-Rear lower control arm 70nm (52ft-lbs +180 degrees
0:00 - Intro
0:27 - Removing lower strut bolt
0:36 - Swaybar endlink removal
0:45 - Spreading steering knuckle off shock
1:10 - Removing driveshaft bolts
1:37 - Removing top strut bolts
2:18 - Removing front shock assembly
2:27 - Removing top strut bearing
3:05 - Assembling Bilstein B14
4:22 - Installing front B14
4:40 - Front torque specs
5:03 - Removing rear fender liner
5:56 - Removing suspension bolts on control arm
6:42 - Removing upper strut bolts
7:26 - Swapping strut mount
8:30 - Top strut mount torque
RS3 soon come! Stay tuned for more automotive shenanigans!
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As always, thanks for watching! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
This reminds me of doing the same job today. Proper beat me up doing on jacks.
Nice instructions really helped me out thanks ... 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Glad we could help out
Good video man! I just ordered B14 for my TTRS. I’ll let you know how I like em.
Awesome! Hope you like them!
How are your coilovers after having them on for sometime?
Did you ever do a follow up review video? I see the update in the description but was curious if there was a video as well.
I have not, but it certainly is an improvement over stock ride quality. The car feels less bouncy than what it was on the lowering springs and more confident through the corners.
Thumbs up for spreader talk
We love spreadin' em
How come you didn't go the way of the 2x4 method on the front to remove the shock?
What was your final hight set to? Lower or higher than the 034 springs?
Going B16 myself in a few months when weather gets warmer so this was inspirational
What's the 2x4 method? I ended up having to adjust the front up and the rear down after the springs settled. I could get the final collar positions, currently riding with maybe a finger or two between the tire and fender.
@@HardwayLearning what do you estimate the drop is from stock? I am looking to be on b16 around 1 inch drop or as close to what VWR or 034 springs lower the car. What do you estimate amount of threads you lowered on front and rear ?
The 2x4 method i heard and seen on youbtube is to take a piece of wood screw it into the front strut where the endlink for sway goes and with floor jack compress the strut/spring just enough for it to pop out of the spindle collar. It eliminates taking out the axle and the axle bolts which apparently some people had issues with later on.
Did you have in groaning/creaking from the rear after install? Trying to diagnose the sound I'm getting after installing the B16s PSS10s.
I did not, but I did get some when I did the RSB. They sometimes come lose, I'd check every bolt associated with your RSB.
For the rears how do you adjust the height? Spin the collars up to raise and down to lower?
Spin the collar up the threaded sleeve to lower it
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Do drive shafts have to be disconnected both sides?? Even if there is coilovers already in just want to put a fresh set in
Depends, you could try without, but I ended up needing to disconnect them in order to get enough clearance for the bottom of the shock to sneak out of the knuckle. Look up "Mk7 2x4 strut removal". You can compress the shock with a floor jack to remove it as well.
Stupid question... what do you use for jack points & jack stands? I can’t find anywhere to jack & have room for stands
I use the front jack points to lift one side of the car. Place jack stand on the rear jack point and one up front under the subframe. Then I repeat that on both sides.
You should now have jack stands on each rear jack point and two under the front sub frame. Then I jack the front up where the dogbone connects to the front subframe and move the jack stands to the jack points in the front.
It's a real pain in the ass, but I can't think of any other way sans a lift or Quickjack
you couldve just used your impact wrench to extract the bolt from the rear knuckle by reverse. you should have placed the jack to suppor the control arm and not under the disc rotor. to avoid folding the dust sheilds.
These are all excellent points! We aren't always the brightest of the bunch 😂
Hi,I installed b14 on my mk3 audi TT. The rear feels very bouncy and unsettling in undulations. It appears to be a bit soft and poorly damped. The front and rear are lowered by 20 and 15mm. I’ve no complaints on the front. Can you help to get this sorted. My m4 with kw clubsport coilovers feel way better and we’ll damped. Even Mild bumps upset the car too much
That's very strange, do you hear any clunking? Is the car ride height level? Do you have a stock rear swaybar? Did you tighten everything
You dont disassemble the ball joint nuts, how do you take out the shoks?
The arm comes down low enough to sneak it out
hi I installed my new b14s with new bilstein front bearings on my s3 8v. Is it normal to have a slight noise on the bearings when steering from a standstill? they told me it depends on the lowering springs. Front -22 and rear -20. thanks bye
Mine did not make much noise, maybe the strut isn't fully tightened to the bearing? That's interesting, usually people have issues with strut bearings if they don't replace them and they wear out.
Hi, do i still need a dcc canceller? I have a 2016 mk7 gti autobahn
If you have DCC I believe you would. I didn't have DCC so I didn't. I'd probably try to find something that still has DCC if that exists. Seems like a pretty nice feature, but I'm not versed in the DCC realm
Hey there, Bilstein mentions to always torque suspension to control arm while on load. Seems super important, is this something you recommend?
I would recommended that with this type of suspension. It is a good way to be sure that the bottom of the strut is inserted all the way and if you're doing sway bars it can help prevent binding
@@HardwayLearning I did but only at front. But only one side at a time with the jack. Not sure if this is the right way, I thought all wheels should be on load. Could only do this on a lift or maybe with 4 ramps.
@@designrdan you should be good with what you did 👍
@@HardwayLearning Been 2 months and all good so far. I appreciate your help and advice! Thanks again!!
@@designrdan anytime!
What size was the top nut bolt on the rear shocks? You said the fronts are 22 but never said the rest
The top nut on the front changed, the rear remains stock which I think is 17mm???
@@HardwayLearning alright thank you!
Trying to figure out to go b14 or 16. They say the 14s aren't height adjustable... but yours clearly are and they look like it online. So not sure on the difference of that. Any insight? Also you should do a driving review.
If you have DCC, the damping on the B16's can be electronically controlled. In the B14's they are fixed damping, but they matched the springs very well to that damping.
So I have the mk7 with no dcc. Sounds like it be pointless for me to go b16 then
@@narkls1389 yes it would be overkill, but sweet if you could retrofit DCC (I'm sure there's a way)
@@HardwayLearning oh I just found it. There are 2 types of b16. One dcc the other regular with dampening control knobs. Hmm I might still go for those then.
@@narkls1389 yeah it's a nice to have, but not required 👍. I have adjustable damping on my Miata. The only time I touched them was when I installed them and set it to what they recommend for their sport springs 😂
I've had these on my car for about 15k miles and i've almost always had a creaking noise when turning. Any suggested remedies? New strut mounts, some kind of grease, etc...?
It's pretty common for the front strut bearings to go bad (the rubber sandwhich on top of the strut), otherwise I would check to make sure your sway bar and endlinks are properly torqued. Mine are dead quiet though. How many miles are on the car overall?
@@HardwayLearning thanks for the reply. The car is at 51k miles.
@@francescopastino I would suspect the upper strut bearings are probably shot. Does it squeak if you turn the wheels at a stop?
@@HardwayLearning not so much a squeak, but more like a creaking while turning at parking lot speeds.
@@francescopastinoyeah that definitely sounds like the top strut bearings 👍
This process should be similar for the mk6 golf with B14 right?
I would guess so, never worked on a mk6, but it's probably 90% identical
Which milwaukee impact is that? 3/4 drive?
It is the 2860-20 M18 1/2" Mid-torque impact 👍 (can be found on the Amazon storefront link in description 😁)
How much cornering horsepower does this add?
At least 7.73 hurse-purs, will have to take it back to the test track
Pretty noob here . How do you adjust the rear? Had rings all the way counter clockwise and rear is super jacked?
You want the collar to be adjust towards the body/frame of the car and not towards the control arm. Each nut is jammed together to lock them so you need to loosen them away from each other to start adjusting it.
@@HardwayLearning Great! Thanks for the prompt reply, much appreciated! Great vids?! 👍
How is this after over a year of use?
Ride better than lowering springs, but I'd maybe opt to the adjustable damping, just to dial that in a little further.
It's your camber bolt.
THANK YOU!
Nice wrench tools wera, i am going OCD
Same same
No spring compression needed!
Only if you have aftermarket lowering springs!
Meanwhile Im running my volvo 740 with stock suspension. And yeah its pushing 824whp/867wnm on the dyno. I would highly recommend building engine with forget internals, swap solid gearbox, rear-axle and after these modifications just keep driving and ignore everything else. Trust me its a lot more fun gapping people with lego suspension and plastic china bling bling wheels... lols..
Lol, I get your angle, but the main focus of this car is comfortable daily driving/road trips. I would have kept the lowering springs, but the girlfriend didn't like the ride.
@@HardwayLearning my gf always says slow the f### down pls. Lol 3.2bar of boost thru her brain..