How to Set Tile Around a Tub - Bathroom Remodel
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- čas přidán 20. 01. 2017
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This video will show you how to set tile around a tub. I cover some of the specifics of how to layout and set up a tub to install tile around it.
I'm using thin set as my adhesive for the tile. When installing tile on walls, always remember that you want to create level lines to install your tile on. If you remember that one thing, you're well on your way to having a good looking final installation.
Now, the tub is not necessarily going to be level. It will also have places where it may have a ridge that turns up underneath the wallboard. So, start by finding the lowest point where the tile will be installed against the tub and you can do that with a level.
At that spot, take a full piece of tile and place it against the wall and make a mark on the top of the tile. It is at or below that mark that you want to draw a level line all the way around the 3 sides of the tub.
You are shooting for about 1/8 of an inch gap between your tub and the first row of tile. This gives you a good joint for caulk that will be applied in the corner later.
There are many factors such as bows in the wall and slight variations in the size of tiles that can start causing your tiles to get off-line. So, use your spacers to help keep your tile on track. I also continue to add level reference lines as I move up the wall until I get near the top of the tile installation.
In order to keep tile aligned in the corners, make sure to install all 3 walls of tile as you move up. Don't make the mistake of installing 6 feet of tile up one wall and then coming back and trying to line up another 6 foot section of wall with the first.
In many installations like this, you will see that the edge of the tile is left square and grout is applied between the wall and the edge of the tile to build out a grout joint that just rests against the edge of the tile. Over time and, in fact. in a relatively short period of time this grout will crack and begin falling off.
In cases like this, I back cut the edge of the tile which means I'm cutting about a 45° angle off the exposed edge in order to create an area to pack grout into. By taking masking tape and applying it to the wall next to the tile you can tightly pack grout into that space and after washing it down, remove the tape and get a very defined grout joint that will also have good durability.
Grouting is grouting, and is not one of my favorite parts of the job although it is one of the most important. You mix grout to allow it to be easily worked into the joints. In most cases, that's about the consistency of a half melted bowl of ice cream.
Different types of tile will soak up the moisture in the grout at different speeds. So, you need to experiment a little bit with your tile in order to get the mixture that works best. About five minutes after grouting an area, you should be able to come back and wash down the joints to see that the grout is beginning to firm up in the joints.
I don't worry about the corners too much when applying grout. I'm ultimately going to come back with a matching sanded or un-sanded caulk depending on the installation and apply that in the corners.
The flexibility of the caulk will keep the corners sealed when there is movement between the two walls at the corner. Grout in place of caulk in the corners will always crack and not provide a waterproof seal in the corner over the long-term.
The secret to caulking is to not get more caulk into the corners than you need. This means that when you cut the tip off of the tube of caulk, start with a small hole maybe the size of the matchstick. Then depending on how firmly you are squeezing the caulk gun adjust the speed of your movement to leave a consistent bead of caulk in the corner.
When installing accessories like soap dishes, mix really stiff thin set and apply it to the back of the dish. There may be holes in the back and you want to make sure to squeeze some thin set into those holes.
Then press the dish into the slot cut out in the tile and push it in until it is begins to come in contact with the surface of the tile. Take a sponge and your finger again much like when you're caulking and remove the excess thin set that is squeezing out. - Jak na to + styl
Clear voice, no annoying music or background noise, explained in detail for any DIY-er, great video!
Thanks for watching and for your comment, Mario!
First I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge. I'm a Hispanic male from south texas. I have been working for my friends home remodeling business for that time. Honestly the quality of work you do is above what I have seen here in south texas. People are cheap and want it done fast. So many steps you do to get your job done correctly are not here. I wish I saw more gentlemen with your work ethic and good attitude. May you inspire more individuals too take pride in their workmanship and produce a high quality product.
Hi, Drpunisherrx. Sorry I did not respond to your comment back when you wrote it. I remember seeing it but lost track of it. CZcams does not do a great job of helping us track comments and replies and I was happy I stumbled across it again today. I appreciate your kind comments and hope you have had the opportunity in the past year to branch out and maybe do some work on your own for customers. I got started in construction in Abilene, Texas and know what you are talking about that sometimes the quality of work does not measure up. I don't think that is only limited to Texas! You sound like the kind of person who would do well running your own business. All I can say is I have never been burned by trying to do good work and have found that customers keep calling you back and telling their friends about you as well. My best wishes to you in your ventures!
@@RustyDobbs can show how you set up a level line
@@RustyDobbs can show how you set up a level line
I do honestly get annoyed when I’m told, “ehh es ok” 🤷♂️
This is a really great video. Taking the time to explain details, like the 45 degree back bevel for a clean grout line is solid gold!
Thanks for watching, Nicholas, and I'm glad you found the video helpful! Yeah, that back cutting the tile edge trick really does give you a nice clean grout joint that is also very durable. I still regularly see grout built up on the edge of tile to a 45°. The only problem is that it will crack and fall off over time. I never have figured out why people think that's a good way to finish the edge. I appreciate your comments!
I'm remodeling my bathroom myself right now and really appreciate this video and your detailed descriptions. It has given me more confidence.
Good luck, Nico! You learn a lot by taking on home projects and there are lots of sources for information these days to help.
Definitely one of the best instructional videos I’ve seen on CZcams. Perfect videography, lighting, editing, and presentation. Awesome! Thanks brother!
Thanks for the comment, Victor Valencik, and for checking out my channel! You are way too kind!
Rusty great job and the video was on point and I greatly appreciate voice over (no music) which distract from the demonstration of how to apply those materials.
Hey, thanks, Mr. B! Yeah, I find myself leaning more on the voice over approach as I do more videos and I'm glad you find it helpful. It may also be that I have always been a bit of a talker, too! Thanks for the comment.
Outstanding video and instructions. I'm glad I watched before I tried my install.
Thanks, Keith! I'm glad it was helpful.
Thank you for the great content and demonstration. A fiber cement blade (polycrystalline diamond, or pcd blade) for a circular saw is such a life saver when handling that kind of material or laminate. Makes a lot less dust and cuts smoother, but what's even better is how easy it is to hook up a vacuum to my 6 1/2 inch saw. You could almost cut inside with such a set up
Thanks for the information about the pcd blade, Samuel! I actually do this type of cut very infrequently these days but will definitely keep your suggestion in mind for future reference. My method certainly does make a lot of dust that does not need to be inhaled! Thanks for watching!
Your awesome! Love how professional and knowledgeable you are. Thanks for the help!
I really appreciate the comment, Yorowichi D! Glad you found the video helpful!
This was definitely helpful. Thanks for taking the time to create this.
Thanks, Bill! I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
Clear concise instruction with no personal monologue. Truly a lost art, thank you.
Thanks Felix! I appreciate you comments and thanks for watching!
Wow. I've done a lot of DIY tiling and watched a lot of videos. This was helpful. Thanks!
Thanks for checking out my channel, anon31415! I appreciate the comment!
I'm about to do a tile job. I've done tile before, but it's been years. Super helpful!
Thanks for watching and I hope your tile job goes well. Yeah, just a step at a time and start with a level line!
@@RustyDobbs It went great!
This man was very thorough want to thank you, for taking the time and helping others,
I appreciate your comments, Richard! Thanks for watching!
only professionals pre drill holes on backing boards, very nice instructions. THANK YOU.
Well, Crystaryl, I think people who work with Hardiebacker enough come to realize that predrilling only takes a few more minutes but gives you a real secure connection to the studs with every screw. Otherwise sometimes you get a breakout at the edges of the material which is a drag. Thanks so much for your comment.
I am glad I watched your video. I didn't know that I should work on all walls I go. I was about to do each at a time. Thanks for your tip.
That's one of those lessons you only have to learn once and you will never forget, James! Glad you didn't learn it the hard way!
I use Hardy backer board on all ceramic tile to wood base floor installations. With the amount of time and screws required I charge by the board. It may seem trivial but the time I spend on backer board demands some compensation. I do very good work and try to avoid working for free. The contractors I work for don't mind the expense in the large scheme of things. Thanks for all the shower and tile videos Rusty. I learn something new every video and I know you are doing good work and a Craftsman would do well to follow your lead. Thanks for all the info and tips.
Thanks for your comment, Michael! I think you are on a great track with the way you are handling your business. Keep that frame of mind and you'll find that you are never looking for work and, in fact, will tend to have a backlog of people waiting for you to get to them at prices that will let you earn a good living. I'm glad you found some helpful information in my videos. Thanks for watching!
Wow, very beautiful voice to teach. So clear, like a professor.
Thanks Regina! I appreciate the comment!
Regina Folen a
is it aye
Well spoken and great instructions.. gonna help me a lot when doing my bathroom next week! Thx
Good luck with your bathroom project, Treezy01! Thanks for your comment and for watching!
Very well put together and informative video. Thanks you for sharing your skills. I have taken alot from this
Thanks so much for your comment, CCC! I'm glad you found it helpful!
Impressive that you can do that work in clean jeans and sweater with solid colors and keep thinset and grout off jeans and shirt!
You are the first to notice that, Richard, which either means that you have mastered it also or you know from experience how hard it is to keep thinset off your clothes over the course of a day! Thanks for your observation and for watching!
nice job laying the tile. you are very good!
This is very helpful and professional. Thank you!
Thanks, Lexi! I appreciate you watching!
awesome video! you are a real pro! this was very informative and one of the better videos on how to install tile! thank you..
Thanks so much, susan! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching!
Glad I found this video, nice to know the drywall is suppose to go over the tub not on top or behide it. Im installing tile also, this is all a challenge.
Thanks for watching, Robert, and good luck on your project!
@@RustyDobbs Its turning out petty good for my first time installing drywall, Kerdi paper and tiles. One mistake I would like to fix but impossible without ripping the left back corner tiles out, is it cut them 1/8 smaller to have a crack (corner like) for the silocone, its more flush.. The right side oppsite to the faucet is good, has like a corner.
Thank you finally the perfect tile you-tuber!!!!! I truly appreciate your straight forward explanations and simple instructions. Today you are my hero!!!
That was so informative. Thank you for sharing your skills.
Thanks Catscratch Farms! I appreciate the encouragement!
Absolutely! I am about to have a tub set and am going to attempt this project myself. I feel much more comfortable now.
i understand you explain it well on the second half of the statement thanks
Great video.. thanks for educating us future D.I.Y ‘fers..
Thanks for watching and for the comment, Gee Body! Always something to learn out there! Hope you are working some projects attempts into your schedule soon!
Nice looking job and you cover a lot of good points. I would recommend applying the waterproofing to the whole surface (backerboard) behind the tile though - backerboard is not impermeable.
Thanks for your comment, Justin, and I hear your point. I have mixed feelings on that. I'm going to get a little long winded here, so bear with me. First, for any tile job to be in good shape after say 5 years, it has to be maintained as in squeegied and towel dried after use, I think. Plus, grout needs to be touched up as needed and caulk in corners periodically checked and touched up. If those things are done, any surface behind the tile is going to hold up because minimal water is ever going to reach it and never in quantities to cause a problem. Now, we both know that kind of care may or may not occur. That's where Hardiebacker type products are so good. If tile is not maintained and water gets to the Hardiebacker, it's going to soak into it, which is your point, but it's not going to cause a break down of the material, maybe ever. But since it is like a sponge, it dries out relatively quickly, even behind the tile. Now that's not ideal but probably the best outcome in the situation.
Here's another scenario that I am dealing with right now. Next week I am doing a major cleanup, recaulk of corners of a shower that was completed about a year ago. I didn't do the work but saw it before the tile was installed and it is total Hardiebacker installed well and waterproofed to the max. The owners installed a very tall glass enclosure across the opening that virtually creates a sauna. Ventilation is poor. They use the shower, walk out of it and close the door so it stays constantly wet. Caulked corners have major mold and mildew that is going to continue to be an ongoing problem if they don't dry the shower after every use. I also suggested they install an exhaust fan in the ceiling over the shower but I'm not confident they are really going to follow my advice. One thing is for sure, the shower is not going to leak because of the waterproofing. But it is also obvious the waterproofing may be making it difficult for the tile and grout to dry out.
Anyway, interesting dilemma and would be curious to hear your thoughts. I don't typically use waterproofing over 1/2" Hardiebacker. Just seal the seams with fiberglass tape and thinset, then set tile. Then emphasize maintenance and upkeep to the owners. This link, czcams.com/video/ZAWpt2ieWf8/video.html, is another video of a tub tile surround that shows my typical method, if it is left to me. Thanks again for your comment!
Hi Rusty. In that vein, I just demoed my 1940's bathroom to the studs. What I found was they had covered between the studs with a steel honeycomb mesh and then troweled with what I guess we would call thin-set to about 3/4" thick, and then tiled over that after it dried I saw no indication of water damage or staining on the studs or anywhere else for that matter. They must have been true crafts men because that 3/4" was consistent everywhere! It took a long time to take all that stuff off. I told my wife we could have used that bathroom as safe-room.Tom
Nice job! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching, Matt! I appreciate it!
The best tile setting video I have seen!
Thanks mary ann! I really appreciate you watching and the nice comment!
check out sal diblasi youtube channel way better lost of bad advice on this video 🤷♂️🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
No pretense. No jive. No razzle-dazzle. Just plain talk and solid instruction. I just love country folk!
I get what you are talking about, Raymond! I consider it a high honor to be referred to as "country folk"!
@@RustyDobbs It is my friend. Country folk are just gold, salt and honey!
Good job mate!!
Thanks, I appreciate it. I enjoy both the work and the video editing, too.
Great job, sir. Like your instructions
Thanks, Leggs! I like your name!
Thank you for this!!
WOW! Looks Amazing!
Thanks for watching, YVR1975!
Just what we needed. Understand how to do this job when contractor comes to replace shower with bathtub. Thanks
Thanks, Irene! I'm glad it was helpful. I'm giving you a link to another video that is typically the way I prep a tub surround for tile if it's totally my call. I like 1/2" Hardiebacker a lot as a backing for tile. These days I will normally use a waterproof membrane in the corners and seams, but not on the full face of the Hardiebacker for reasons I won't go into now. If your contractor wants to coat all the backerboard with a membrane, that's fine... just something he and I would not agree about. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching! Here's the video: czcams.com/video/ZAWpt2ieWf8/video.html
This is easily the "Top 3 Tile Install Videos" for sure... if not higher!! 👍🏻 What a great guy you seem to be to have take time out of you life to share with us!! I learned quite a bit and will help my son and I do our bathtub \ shower way better... THANX! 😀
Thanks so much for watching, Vee, and I appreciate your kind comments! Good luck to you and your son on your project! New tile sure improves the look of a bathtub and bathroom!
very good presentation. thank you sir!!
Thanks so much, Dojo! I appreciate you watching!
Excellent video. Good job
Thanks Freddy! I appreciate you watching!
Well done video. Hoping to use aspects of your video and apply it to mine whenever I get around to making my video. Maybe I can use your voice to overdub mine too. lol
Looks great! Thanks for the advice!
Thanks, Aetherflow! I appreciate you watching!
I would like to see how to transition from tile to drywall a bit more. Great vid.
Thanks, Peter! I appreciate you watching!
That’s an interesting point I haven’t considered before. In my experience which admittedly shorter than yours I have found that I’ve had to deal with studs rotting as the water wicks through the board as I rip out old tub tiles. I guess time will tell if these new water tight systems prove better. Thanks for the info.
No doubt about it, that's a big problem when studs are wet and doesn't speak well of any surface that allowed that to happen. But glad you are keeping an open mind about my perspective which is just that, my perspective. I set my first piece of tile in 1977 and in those days you had two options for wall surfaces in showers and around tubs. Plain old sheetrock and mud/lath cement walls that were hand floated with a hawk and trowel. Mud walls were expensive but basically outlasted the tile's useful life if done right and sheetrock fell apart as you would expect. Along came 'greenboard' which was moisture resistant sheetrock. It was a little better, but not much. When Hardiebacker 1/2" showed up, I stopped doing mud work and have used it in all my showers and tub surrounds ever sense. Again, installed right, I think it will outlast the useful/stylistic life of the tile that's attached to it and its wicking properties, I think, help minimize the growth of mold. I haven't considered myself set in my ways, but that's probably an accurate characterization. I just go with what works for me and haven't been particularly interested in the newer systems. My guess is that they are probably fine, but the questions about trapped water still don't compute with me. Good luck with you business and thanks for watching!
great video. very helpful, thank you
Thank you, Dino! I appreciate your comment!
Great instructional video...to the point!
Thanks, Silver! I'm glad you found it helpful!
Beautiful. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Very good instructional video!!!!! 2 thumbs up
Thanks Jeff! I appreciate you watching!
This is a great channel!!! 👍
Hey, thanks Joefest99! I appreciate the comment and for watching!
Very good and to the point, no to much talking, like some presenters like to do.
Thanks for the comment, digimaks. I do have to say though that I can get a little 'wordy' too!
Thank you, king 👑
Very good instructions. just what I needed.
Thanks, Patricia. Glad it was helpful.
hi Rusty, can i tile on top of the old tile? (considering old tiles are in good condition)?
Excellent video. Thanks.
Thanks, Jim! I appreciate you watching!
Thank you this is what I needed to see
Great, Odin! Thanks for watching!
Voice makes me want to watch more of these. Say caulking one more time lol
Great work!
Thanks Matt!
This is probably the best video I have seen on installing tile in a alcove area above a tub. I have one question which is: Is it common to tile all the way to the ceiling, and if not what is a common stopping point? I am getting ready to start a project like this and don't really have a preference, and just want to stop where it would be preferred. Thank you!
Thanks for your comment, Greg! There isn't really a rule of thumb for the height of the tile in a tub surround. I think with larger format tile being installed around tubs these days, it's more common to go ahead and run the tile all the way to the ceiling, assuming a normal 8 foot height to the ceiling. But if you have a nice bullnose trim that you're going to be using on the front edge, it's also very common to stop the tile about 6 inches to a foot above the showerhead and cap it with the bullnose. Good luck with your project!
Excellent explanation. Exactly what I needed for my job. Thank you! My only critique is that Hydro-Ban is supposed to be used with Laticrete Waterproofing Membrane Fabric which is different from the fiber tape used in the video.
Thanks for the comment, Jim. Yeah, in the span of my tile setting history, the waterproofing products have been a later arrival to the product 'arsenal' for me and I'm still not completely sure how I feel about them. So I tend to use them when and how they make sense to me in a given situation. My main issue is what happens to water that ultimately gets trapped behind the tile and against the waterproofing material. I am planning to do a video on this topic and explain my perspective a little more fully at some point. I appreciate you watching and am glad the video was helpful.
Thanks Rusty. I look forward to the video on waterproofing. I'm an amateur at tile in showers. My only experience is about 800 sq. ft. of floor tile in my house. I'm very concerned about the issue of water getting behind the wall and into the framing -- black mold made a friend's life hell for about half a year. I haven't set the first tile in my tub wall yet -- since my wife and I changed our minds on the tile. I appreciate your video and appreciate the reply.
Hey Jim. I wanted to add a couple more thoughts based on your reply last week. First, take your time on the tub surround... it isn't that difficult contrary to the opinions of some. On the waterproofing issue, the whole trend to create a complete waterproof barrier behind the tile just runs counter to the typical approach of tile setters for about the first 30 years that I set tile. Conceptually, I get it. But the whole notion that it is needed confirms the fact that everyone from any generation of tile setters knows that water will get behind the tile at some point, to some degree depending on how well the grout and caulk joints are maintained. So what happens to it when it sits between a waterproof barrier and the tile? Common sense tells me mold starts to show up. My guess is the proponents of this approach are going to say, "That ain't my problem... you should be happy your studs are dry." Here is a link to a video showing my approach to prepping a tub to set tile. czcams.com/video/ZAWpt2ieWf8/video.html It doesn't have the views that the one you watched does, but when all the decisions are left to me, this is how I do it. I also encourage homeowners to wipe down the tile after each shower and maintain the grout and caulk joints. The 1/2" Hardiebacker will take care of any water that reaches it without any damage to anything and without promoting mold growth. Properly maintained, this type of installation will last until people decide they don't like the tile anymore. Anyway, that's my story and the points I will make in the video which will probably not be out in a timeframe to be helpful to you. Good luck with your project!
Very good job great teacher also
Thanks for the comment, David, and for watching my channel!
Thank you for the great video! One thing though, I would have liked to see how you handled the edge where the new tile met the old wall like you showed in another finished product (to replace bull nose).
Thanks again!
Thanks for watching and for your comment, SciGuy! Not sure exactly what you're asking but I will take a stab at it. On this job, we had no opportunity to buy any bullnose trim to finish the edges so any place where the tile terminated, I cut a 45° edge on the backside of the tile to allow me to create a very durable grout joint between the wall and the edge of the tile. Making that 45° cut also does away with the unfinished edge of the tile that would be exposed otherwise. You see people place grout against the edge of unfinished tile and wash it down to a 45° or so angle but because it's basically just sitting in a corner it will crack and fall out over time. Obviously, if bullnose trim is available, that's the best way to finish an outside edge. But in the absence of that, back cutting the tile for a grout is also very good solution. Hope that is what you are asking about!
What to I do to correct a botched tile job around my tub. Installer did not have the first row level and did no bring the hardy board down to the tub leaving a large gap which he covered by cutting tile pieces to put over the tile to hide gap which are now falling off. help!
Yikes! Doesn't sound good. Send a picture to info@dobbsworkshop.com and I'll at least give you an opinion.
Great video. Thank you
Thanks, edz, I appreciate you watching!
Great video!!! Thanks
Thanks, Kevin!
Great video Rusty. I was looking for how to tile a bathtub wall when the bathtub has an upstand around it. I'm assuming the bathtub needs to be recessed into the cement board (we call it gib here in nz) so that the wall and upstand are flush, and then tile over the top with a small gap for caulk in the bottom. My bathtub is also my shower, so it will have lots of water running down the wall and bathtubs here are generally sold with upstands and also recommended to use them for shower over bath installations. Do you have any experience with these?
Thanks, Nadine! I see you got the answer to your question by watching my other video that shows a little more detail on a typical tub surround. Thanks for your comment and question!
I wish you can be my contractor for my next home!
Thanks for posting, sir.
Thanks for watching, Javier!
Great video. Is the "perfect level" always going to be below the first row of tile? Could it be above and then fill in gap between 1st and 2nd row with grout? Also did you cut the holes for the soap dish before or after you placed the tiles?
Not sure if I completely understand your question, Matt. If the tub is perfectly level (which is likely not the case) then the "perfect level" line could be one row of tile above the tub. If not, you want your perfect level line to force you to make cuts at the tub to create an acceptable grout/caulk joint there. You can adjust your line down to help make the cuts against the tub easier. You never want to "fill a gap" with grout that is larger than what is the normal grout joint for the job you are working on. Yes, I cut the slots for the soap dishes in the tile on a tile saw before setting the tile. Thanks for the question.
good job and explanation!
Thanks, Abe Lincoln! I appreciate you watching!
I’m getting ready to install tile around my tub for the first time and have been looking for videos to help me, this is by far the best video out there, thanks so much!
Thanks so much for your comment and for watching! I'm glad you found the video helpful!
Rusty Dobbs good work
Nice job
Thanks, Jeff!
Fantastic explanation! Will you be doing more videos like this soon?
Thanks for the instructional video. I’m getting ready to do tile in my bathroom for a surround. At first, I did not want to even attempt it myself but after receiving some quotes, I think I may. My dad and I did a near full remodel of my house about15 years ago but we did not do any tile, so I’m not familiar with it at all. Being that I only have one bathroom in my home, my question is this - about how long should a beginner expect this job to take to complete from start to finish?
You’re welcome, Ken! It sounds like you are pretty experienced with tools and remodeling, so you should not shy away from tiling a tub surround. I have a number of tile videos and playlists on my channel but one newer video called, “Tile Setting - How to Set Tile Around Your Tub” is one you should also take a look at.
As far as projecting a time frame for you, I don’t really have a good answer. The process you see me going through in my videos is pretty consistently the same and would be the same for you. How quickly you work through those steps would determine how long the overall job would take. I can definitely say the second tube surround you tile would be quicker than your first! 🙂 I would add, you can continue to use your tub for bathing even if your wall tile is not complete with a little creativity since this is your only bathroom.
Over the years on my CZcams channel, I have helped hundreds of people with their remodel projects by jumping to email rather than CZcams comments so they could share pictures, explanations and questions better with me. I began using a better method than email recently to communicate with folks like you about their projects because it is such a timesaver for me and I can share better and more complete information in a fraction of time it takes to respond to emails. If you are interested, you can send me an email to rusty@dobbsworkshop.com and I’ll get you set up. There is not cost.
Good luck with your project, Ken! I’ll bet you can pull it off!
Great job!
Thanks, Santos!
Thank you, sir.
Well done sir.
Thanks, Andy! I appreciate you watching!
Careful with the caulk in the corners. If you push too hard you'll slice your finger open on the sharp edge.
What's the difference between hardiebacker and cement board? Is the fiberglass strips and the Hydro ban all that's needed to protect the joints and corners?
They are very similar products. Durock is the cement board I most familiar with. It is essentially cement sandwiched between fiberglass layers. I prefer Hardiebacker (both are 1/2" thick for wall installs) which is more uniform throughout and easier to work with for me. But they are both very resistant to damage once water begins coming in contact with them. Yes, from my perspective, Hydroban on the fiberglass strips in corners and joints is adequate. I do not put Hydroban on the field area of the Hardiebacker. Some installers these days try to create a complete water barrier behind the tile with Hydroban and similar products, then tile over that. I understand the intention but my concern with that is that once water gets behind the tile over time which it will, it collects against the waterproof envelope, doesn't dry out and then can create mold problems.
In my case, I have watched the evolution of wall board type products over decades. I don't think it gets much better than Hardiebacker as a substructure for tile and am suspect of the foamboard type products that get a lot of attention now. I'm sure they are fine, but I don't use them. This link, czcams.com/video/ZAWpt2ieWf8/video.html, shows the way I like to prep a typical Hardiebacker installation start to finish in more detail. One final comment is that the real protection for the corners is that the tile be cut tight and overlap in the corners. Then, corners need to be caulked with a high quality siliconized acrylic caulk. If the grout joints and corners are maintained over time, the material the tile is installed on never becomes an issue. Hope this is helpful. Thanks for the questions!
First rate! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, Stephen! Appreciate you watching!
After looking at this tutorial I feel confident that I have the knowledge to perform this task. Job well done awesome diy
Good luck with your project, Joe! Yes, this is not beyond the reach of a lot of people to do if you take your time and apply a good dose of common sense along the way. Thanks for your comment!
Good instructions !
Thanks, Rachel! I appreciate you watching!
Good video
Id retire and make audiobooks if i were you tile is hard work
You are right about tile work, Steven! But I also have to wonder how I would feel about reading books into a microphone all day! I might conclude it was harder than tile work. Know for sure I would put myself to sleep right after lunch!
Nice video
Thanks, Jessica! I appreciate you watching!
I have one question about tiling in general, what process do you do first, grout or caulk in a bathtub? It would seem if you grout first it may get into places like the corners and where the tub meets the tile where you really want only caulking. My project is getting close to this part and I have seen no info for this step.
Definitely grout first, let it dry and buff it with a rag with a little furniture polish sprayed on it to keep the dust down. You can take a flat head screw driver or a putty knife and gently scrape out any grout that may have been pushed into a corner or at the tub. That doesn't have to be perfect either. Then caulk as the last step. Here is a link to a video on caulking for your reference if you need it. Good luck with the project, Coffee2clutch! Love hearing about people taking on projects like this themselves!
really helpful info. I'm going to undertake my bathroom reno myself soon. I have to do floor tile everywhere and wall tile in the tub/shower area but to the ceiling. Would you normally leave a 1/8 gap at the ceiling to fill with caulking too? Also someone I know is telling me to use plywood with tile treatment you mix with water and brush on for the floor tiles. Should I still use cement board for the floor too? I would think even treated plywood would expand and contract at a faster rate than tile which would cause grout to break up.
Good luck on your project, Sparky Jay! Yes, that would be fine to leave a 1/8" gap at the ceiling then use siliconized caulk to match your grout in that joint and in all other corners. In this day, I would always use cement board over a wood subfloor. Your instincts are right about the plywood. Even treated properly, why would you set tile on it when you can install cement board over it and not worry about your installation. You'll get a lot of satisfaction out of this when you are done.
This was well explain now time to start the project
Thanks, Iris! Good luck with the tile job!
To get the job done quicker I purchased tiles 12x24
Hey Iris. Just so you're not surprised, I find that setting larger tile like 12 x 24 actually takes me longer than smaller tiles. It's because I have to back butter each tile and pay more attention to getting good coverage between the tile and the wall board or Hardibacker in my case. You also have to be more aware of how the corners are aligning between the tiles. Most of the time the wall surfaces aren't perfectly flat and setting large tile on those surfaces means you have to compensate by having a good thinset bed behind each tile. I don't have a video on setting 12 x 24 tile on a wall although I'm actually starting a tile job tomorrow around the tub that will use that size of tile. But here's a video from a couple years ago where I am setting larger tile that you also may want to take a look at for a little more perspective. czcams.com/video/ZAWpt2ieWf8/video.html
Well shot and instructional video. NEVER in all my years of tiling have I heard of using furniture polish when buffing off the tiles. I’m going to have to give this a try on my next job and see if you’ve just changed my life 😂
Thanks for watching and for the comment, KB! Yeah, that's one of the first things the old tile setters told me about when I first started grouting. Say goodbye to days of your nose full of grout dust and it makes the tile look nice as well. Have a few clean rags handy and a can of Pledge and say hello to a better life!
Do you recommend using that cement backer board throughout the entire tub surround if starting from scratch?
Yes, Sarahy, that is correct. Here is a link to another video called "Tile Setting - How To Set Tile Around Your Tub" I did recently that you may find helpful. czcams.com/video/vkJSdmmeeS0/video.html
Good luck if you’re starting a project!
I got a new bathtub and tile put in and there is only grout in the corners and in the gap between the bottom of the first row of tile and the bathtub. After watching your excellent video it sounds like that's going to crack as soon as there is movement. Sounds like I need to go over those areas with caulk. I asked the installer if I needed to seal the grout and he said no. He also said I only needed to wait 24 hours before using the shower which seems to contradict what I've read after the fact. I should have done more research first but I was in a bit of a bind time wise so any thoughts you can share would be appreciated.
Hey Will. There are so many products out there now that serve many purposes, like grouts that have sealers built into them that I wouldn't get too concerned if you are satisfied with the overall look of the work your installer did. As a general rule, any time tile surfaces that are on different planes that come together, those corners or joints need to be filled with a flexible caulk because when movement is introduced between those surfaces, the grout will crack. At your tub level, it is not a big deal except that it just looks bad when it happens and can be cut out and re-caulked when that happens which may be a while if it's a new installation. But the main thing I would say to you is if you want your job to look like new for a long time, then squeegee and towel dry the tile on a daily basis as it is used. Then maintain the grout joints and caulk joints in the corners. It's really no more complicated than that. Hope that helps and thanks for watching and for your comments.
i should have watched this weeks ago. i put grout in the corners.... should i just calk over it?
If you like the way it looks, I would probably leave it alone for a while. If it begins to crack, the cut out what you can and try to get a smooth line of caulk in the corner. Hope that helps, Danial!
This is a great instructional video. Thank you!
Thanks Christian! I appreciate the encouragement and comment!
What are the black pieces you used under the first row of tiles? Wondering where to find them. Thanks!
Those are just one version of tile installation shims that I found at Lowe's. They are beveled from nothing up to 1/8 of an inch with various other sizes in different colors. Pretty handy but I'm not sure I have seen them lately. I bought them several years ago.
Hey Rusty, Thanks for sharing your wisdom with us. I'll be following your guidance as I work on my next project. I'm not sure if anyone asked but what type of work gloves are you using and where can I find these?
Thanks, Marco, and good luck with your upcoming projects. I bought these particular gloves at Harbor Freight and they were a heavy duty version that came in boxes of 50, I think. They were ok, but it seems like I had trouble finding them in stock the next time I looked and have not continued looking since. May have to see if I can find them again!
Thanks, Rusty!
Just wanted to let you know that my project looks great so far and it’s 95% finished.
Do you caulk the gap between the hardy backer and tub before the tile is set?
You certainly can. I typically don't when it is on a tub rim like this where the rim is sloped back towards the tub to keeping water from going over the rim. I focus more on my bottom tile cut at the tub leaving about 1/8" gap for caulk at completion and then emphasizing with the homeowners the importance of maintaining the grout and caulk over time. But every situation can vary.
Awesome!
Thanks Becky!
thanks
PBS #007 and gjikooo
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Thank you! This is so helpful! How do you know whether to use your purple or white spacers and what are the difference? Also, do you know what tile this is, because it is exactly what I have been looking for!
Thanks for your comment and questions, Ashley! In this case, the tile did not have its own built in spacers for grout joints, so I was shooting for 1/8" joints. The white and purple spacers are just different brands of 1/8" spacers but you raise an important point. The critical issue for a good looking tile installation is to keep your tile lines running level so I am constantly adjusting and shimming the tile as I work. Lots of variables can cause the tile to begin to creep out of alignment as you work your way up the wall. So, sometimes you need to shim a little more or a little less than 1/8" to keep the next row up level. I keep small pieces of cardboard handy just for that purpose too. The more you do this kind of work, it becomes second nature. The tile was purchased from Lowes and was a discontinued line they were phasing out. I remember it being a gray and white tile and was not an expensive brand. Check Lowes and Home Depot and both may have something similar at any given time at around $2.00 per square foot. Thanks again for watching!
@@RustyDobbs thanks for the pro tips Rusty
I see you stop the hardiebacker right at the tub edge. What do you do if you're runnung bullnose down to the floor say 2 or 3" in front of the tub? I'm butting up against wood lath and plaster. Do I run more hardiebacker down to the floor for the extra 2 or 3" width??? Thank you.
Sure, Jeff! There’s no problem with using Hardiebacker any place where you might otherwise use sheetrock. Especially if there’s a chance of water exposure, Hardiebacker is my preferred choice. You can tape and float over the edges with drywall mud and get the same finish as the rest of your sheetrock wall if needed..
Do you set you hardy board directly on the tub or just about the top lip
No, I will always hold the Hardibacker up off the tub about the thickness of the tile. If the flange on the tub is away from the studs I sometimes trim the back of the Hardibacker to let it slip over the flange and not make the Hardiebacker out of plumb but that happens on a case by case basis.