I am getting a used (slightly used) Shapeoko XXL 3 and I have been watching various videos and I noticed the Z axis setting problem. I thought that the solution was to turn the zero setter over to get the right length setting. I'm glad you cleared that up.
Hi Ben - I love love love your videos. Just purchased the Shapeoko 4XXL (I know, you're a Onefinity guy now :). I have this Bit Zero V2. I've watched many tutorials and am confused with one thing. After probing, other videos say to "zero all". I did that and my X and Y were fine, but the Z just hovered. I followed this video, zeroing and then NOT zeroing all and it works. So I don't zero all after probing? I'm sorry if this is a dumb question, but I just don't get it. :) Know this is an old video, but any help would help! Thank you very much. PS - looking forward to purchasing your threaded wasteboard and clamp plans! Love it!
Great video as always. Mine would not work unless I grounded it to the black box housing control board. I tried same mounting place as u first. Just wanted to throw that out there in case someone else had the same problem. And hi five to the storm trooper!
I probe z using BZ 2.0 with it ontop of the material. When it runs...z never makes it anywhere near the material. Is there a setting in design or motion that needs to take the thickness of the BZ into account ?
Your channel is great! I’ve watched several of your videos. I just got my Shapeoko XL yesterday and I’m pretty excited to assemble it. I’ll be posting videos about the journey as well. About that wireless remote... are all those buttons necessary or useful? Or is there a simpler version that will work? I feel like I’ve even seen people using video game controllers including Frank Howarth.
I have a Shapeoko 4 XXL and would like to get either a Bitsetter or a BiZero TouchProbe. I think the Bitsetter only does the Z axis but the Bitzero does all three so is the Bitsetter redundant if I have the Bitzero?
4:45 Proper probing - make note that if you are only probing Z as you are in demonstrating the proper probing, the touch probe should be on the surface of the board not on the corner :)
I have the same question as Simon below. Not all the tools are showing in Carbide Motion. I am using a .75 end mill and I can't figure out how to get it into Carbide Motion
@@MyersWoodshop Mine have 2yo now. I just buy the XXL and im now designing toys for im. Thinking about creating a youtube channel, i will see. My english kinda suck but it will be a nice opportunities to improve that.
@@MyersWoodshop It appears as those being sold by C3D at this time are of a defective batch and need to be "adjusted"/bashed with a rubber mallet a "bit" before they will function.
@@mindlesscorpsecorpse8068 Sounds like you're referring to the issue with the BitSetter rather than the BitZero reviewed in this video? I purchased the BitSetter a few months back and noticed right away that they appear to be using a bronze bushing meant for rotary movement rather than linear movement. That's why the BitSetter tends to cease up, especially after being left untouched for a while.
Can you do a video where you start a job do the probing ste the xyz then show doing a tool change in the same file for a v bit. And show what all the CNC does. Along with and thing you need to set in the different screens that show up before you load and run the job
This may seem like a dumb question, but why did you decide to go with the dewalt instead of makita...or the carbide offered by shapeoko? I am a newbie to cnc. Will be ordering mine soon. Have been watching a ton of videos and have decided on the shapeoko xxl. I am learning the carbide create program now and already saving different designs. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge. Will be purchasing your waste board program on etsy. Have to help other woodworkers out 😊
Last and maybe least here i am ... I was really about to buy this remote but clicking on the link it's seems there's an upgrade , and i cannot decide ... The newest is a little expensive but has a rechargeable battery wich is great and probably the same connection via usb ... does it worth it ? some one knows If the oldest got a rechargeable battery as well ?
Why didn't you talk about that if you probe with (some) 1-2-3 Flute cutters (not bits) you will be off in the zero point if it touches the gulley of the cutter rather than the cutting edge????? I recommend ALWAYS rotating the cutter so that the flute touches the probe body. Or use a 4-flute cutter......
I have version 2, and have one question. After probing and finding X,Y,Z, do you make any changes in Carbide Motion. Do you click zero all? I also have the bit setter.
Ben, my green light is on and I screwed in the wire to the belt just like you did. But when I went to touch the probe to test it, the light does not go off. What am I doing wrong? Thanks
Hi there - Love your videos! Do you need to click anything after you do the probing? I'm having issues with my machine not cutting all the way through the material - even when I make it thicker than it really is (and I'm using calipers) it's just not going all the way through. Any help would be awesome.
@@MyersWoodshop Thank you for the quick response. I think I was trying to cut material that was thicker than my bit could handle. I did it again with a bigger bit and it worked great! I don't support you offer online paid classes or anything? I have more questions and would love someone to talk to so I can understand things better. I don't know anyone else who does this who I can ask.
Ok totally new to all this, so two questions, 1 would it be possible to make one of these yourself? as it does seem to be a simple continuity circuit, 2 what are the diamentions of the actual unit.... thanks in advance
no, but its very easy. Just have carbide motion open on the jog tab, and use the built in carbide motion hot keys. The controller just acts as a wireless keyboard. Theres no magic or programming involved.
If I were you I'd go and permanently mount the Alligator side to the DW611s housing and forget about it - Just slap the block wherever you need it and conductivity between it and the Alligator side should be routed via the Bit > Collet > Shaft > Brushes/Bearings > DW611 Housing > Alligator Wire end. At least that's how it works with my setup ( i.imgur.com/WSa3exY.jpg ) though I'm now using a dedicated VFD/Spindle solution instead of a makeshift Router one.
Why do you even need a prob can’t you just prob off your work piece and eyeball x and y / place your bit in the corner of the work piece, most people zero from center work piece anyway, ?
@@MyersWoodshop at 4:30 I think you used V bit to determine Z, X and Y and few seconds earlier you said that we should use end mills to determine X and Y. In interface you've chosen 1/4" end mill. At least I understood it this way. May be I'm wrong. edit: sorry just realised you were probing just Z with that V bit. Got confused probably.
I know this is just a quick demo, but it was a bit annoying to see obvious movement of the workpiece and the probe block whenever the bit touched the block. Just because something is "hobbyist grade" doesn't mean it should be sloppy about precision.
I am getting a used (slightly used) Shapeoko XXL 3 and I have been watching various videos and I noticed the Z axis setting problem. I thought that the solution was to turn the zero setter over to get the right length setting. I'm glad you cleared that up.
Sooooooon as I said “how do I get a remote?” You answered that question. 🤯🙏🏼
Haven't purchased my CNC yet still trying to learn all I can about the process your videos really help thank you have a blessed day
Thanks Tim. You too!
These videos are great. My Shapeoko will arrive in a few days. Thanks for the thorough informative video instructions
thanks Dillon. I'm glad they help!
All of these videos are great! Wish my children were his age. My youngest is 37.
Thank you very much! I cannot believe with all the Shapoko tutorials there is no simple man one page of how to do it
Thank you for testing things that we wonder but would be to afraid to do on our own!
Your welcome!
Thanks Ben, just hooked up my Touch Probe. Your Shapeoko Videos are always great!
Thanks ron!
Great video!! I literally ordered mine off amazon right after watching this!! Thanks.
Nice! It's a nice feature to have.
Thingiverse has a free model for a 3D printed storage bracket for it, you can attach it to the outside of the y-axis and safely tuck it away.
Awesome. Life saver again! Can’t wait to get mine
It sure makes things easier!
Got my "UNICORN" today!!! Pumped!!! Keep up the great videos!!!
Awesome! Hopefully there always in stock soon!
Just ordered mine ! Also just got my suckitdustboot in! Thx for the vids !
no problem. They are both good additions!
Next is the laser !
use code "myers" for 10% off!
Hi I just found this and am I glad. Now on to your video on on installing the new version of CM to run this.
I love this thing! Glad it helped!
@@MyersWoodshop you said there was a video you did on installing the new version of carbide motion, a can you tell me how to get to it .Jeff
Hi Ben - I love love love your videos. Just purchased the Shapeoko 4XXL (I know, you're a Onefinity guy now :). I have this Bit Zero V2. I've watched many tutorials and am confused with one thing. After probing, other videos say to "zero all". I did that and my X and Y were fine, but the Z just hovered. I followed this video, zeroing and then NOT zeroing all and it works. So I don't zero all after probing? I'm sorry if this is a dumb question, but I just don't get it. :) Know this is an old video, but any help would help! Thank you very much.
PS - looking forward to purchasing your threaded wasteboard and clamp plans! Love it!
Super helpful. Thank you!
Great video as always. Mine would not work unless I grounded it to the black box housing control board. I tried same mounting place as u first. Just wanted to throw that out there in case someone else had the same problem. And hi five to the storm trooper!
well that is interesting!
Yet another very useful, well done video. Thanks!!!
flipping awesome just got mine and this helped out greatly
Great!
I probe z using BZ 2.0 with it ontop of the material. When it runs...z never makes it anywhere near the material. Is there a setting in design or motion that needs to take the thickness of the BZ into account ?
Your channel is great! I’ve watched several of your videos. I just got my Shapeoko XL yesterday and I’m pretty excited to assemble it. I’ll be posting videos about the journey as well. About that wireless remote... are all those buttons necessary or useful? Or is there a simpler version that will work? I feel like I’ve even seen people using video game controllers including Frank Howarth.
Yeah, video game controllers work but require extra setup, this is plug and play
I have a Shapeoko 4 XXL and would like to get either a Bitsetter or a BiZero TouchProbe. I think the Bitsetter only does the Z axis but the Bitzero does all three so is the Bitsetter redundant if I have the Bitzero?
4:45 Proper probing - make note that if you are only probing Z as you are in demonstrating the proper probing, the touch probe should be on the surface of the board not on the corner :)
Just an FYI, that bolt didn’t work for me as a grounding area for some reason. I needed, to attach it to the small bolt on the circuit board cover
well thats weird.
I have the same question as Simon below. Not all the tools are showing in Carbide Motion. I am using a .75 end mill and I can't figure out how to get it into Carbide Motion
Can you use that on a shapeoko 4 XXL CNC router?
Great video, thanks for sharing!
How can you cut an Angled piece of wood? Like if the wood or material is bowed 3 inches so the depth with all be somewhat the same.
Im now subscribe just for this kid final. Thanks btw ahah
i love my son :P
@@MyersWoodshop Mine have 2yo now. I just buy the XXL and im now designing toys for im. Thinking about creating a youtube channel, i will see. My english kinda suck but it will be a nice opportunities to improve that.
Love my touch probe!
me too!
@BlueLine WoodWorks, LLC I'm new to this so could you explain what the point of the probe is?
Hi could you show us the touching off using carbide motion and not a remote?
I plan on doing that in a video real soon! Make sure to subscribe!
You forgot to mention that when you get your new probe, you have to bash the button a few times with a rubber mallet to get it to work.
?
@@MyersWoodshop It appears as those being sold by C3D at this time are of a defective batch and need to be "adjusted"/bashed with a rubber mallet a "bit" before they will function.
@@mindlesscorpsecorpse8068 Sounds like you're referring to the issue with the BitSetter rather than the BitZero reviewed in this video? I purchased the BitSetter a few months back and noticed right away that they appear to be using a bronze bushing meant for rotary movement rather than linear movement. That's why the BitSetter tends to cease up, especially after being left untouched for a while.
Can you do a video where you start a job do the probing ste the xyz then show doing a tool change in the same file for a v bit. And show what all the CNC does. Along with and thing you need to set in the different screens that show up before you load and run the job
Check out carbide create part 3 and 4. I do a tool change and a v bit
This may seem like a dumb question, but why did you decide to go with the dewalt instead of makita...or the carbide offered by shapeoko? I am a newbie to cnc. Will be ordering mine soon. Have been watching a ton of videos and have decided on the shapeoko xxl. I am learning the carbide create program now and already saving different designs. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge. Will be purchasing your waste board program on etsy. Have to help other woodworkers out 😊
its what they offered when I bought it years ago. They only offer the carbide one now which is a clone of the makita. I'd go makita if you can.
Last and maybe least here i am ... I was really about to buy this remote but clicking on the link it's seems there's an upgrade , and i cannot decide ... The newest is a little expensive but has a rechargeable battery wich is great and probably the same connection via usb ... does it worth it ? some one knows If the oldest got a rechargeable battery as well ?
my remote recharges by usb
@@MyersWoodshop thank you very much ! so I'll buy the older !
@@MyersWoodshop thank very much !
Why didn't you talk about that if you probe with (some) 1-2-3 Flute cutters (not bits) you will be off in the zero point if it touches the gulley of the cutter rather than the cutting edge????? I recommend ALWAYS rotating the cutter so that the flute touches the probe body. Or use a 4-flute cutter......
i'll leave the more technical talk up to Winston Moy
Hey. Does this only work with shapeoke because of the hardware?
it can work with others but it wont light up green or red on others.
I’ve been wanting to get that.
gotta sign up for the email notification list, or watch my insta feed! I posted it asap today!
They are in stock.
Yes!
I am a little confused on how to get past the homing to jog the cnc back to the board to be able to set the Z with a new bit
Thanks jeff
Have you figured it out?
Very helpful.
Glad it helped Kevin!
I am looking to get an XXL and I was looking at these accessories, what is the difference between the touch probe and the bit setter?
Don’t. I sold my shapeoko and now I have a Onefinity Cnc. Way better machine for the same price range. Look them up www.onefinitycnc.com
thanks for the info!
I have version 2, and have one question. After probing and finding X,Y,Z, do you make any changes in Carbide Motion. Do you click zero all? I also have the bit setter.
I have the same question, ever figure it out?
Nice Helmet!
lol. I couldn't belive he work it for as long as he did!
Just wondering where the link is to the remote.
its in the TOOLS I USED section.
Ben, my green light is on and I screwed in the wire to the belt just like you did. But when I went to touch the probe to test it, the light does not go off. What am I doing wrong? Thanks
VacancyFillers.com I had to ground mine to the control board housing for it work (light to turn red). Mounting to Y rail screw would not work.
Hi there - Love your videos! Do you need to click anything after you do the probing? I'm having issues with my machine not cutting all the way through the material - even when I make it thicker than it really is (and I'm using calipers) it's just not going all the way through. Any help would be awesome.
nope. once it probes it automatically sets the zeros!
@@MyersWoodshop Thank you for the quick response. I think I was trying to cut material that was thicker than my bit could handle. I did it again with a bigger bit and it worked great!
I don't support you offer online paid classes or anything? I have more questions and would love someone to talk to so I can understand things better. I don't know anyone else who does this who I can ask.
when your trying to probe with a v bit just to find the z axis what tool selection do you use since there is no option for a v bit ?
no tool selection should happen with just a z probe. xyz you cannot do with a v bit.
Ok totally new to all this, so two questions, 1 would it be possible to make one of these yourself? as it does seem to be a simple continuity circuit, 2 what are the diamentions of the actual unit.... thanks in advance
A lot of people make their own. I have not. Internet will tell you how.
Is there a video to set up the wireless remote to the system?
no, but its very easy. Just have carbide motion open on the jog tab, and use the built in carbide motion hot keys. The controller just acts as a wireless keyboard. Theres no magic or programming involved.
@@MyersWoodshop ok thanks
Just realized this but your CPU needs to have a wireless connection for this to work correct? I have an old Panasonic cf-19 with no wireless.
No. The remote comes with a usb dongle to connect to your pc wirelessly
Does the pro come with one or do I need to order one?
I don’t have a shapeoko any longer. Check out www.OnefinityCnc.com
I just ordered mine, but I don't use carbide motion. will this work with other software? I use easel right now.
You’ll have to edit the gcode. You can create in easel and send the gcode with carbide motion and use the probe
Thanks, is there a video on edit the g code?
Not by me, note have I had the need to do so.
If I were you I'd go and permanently mount the Alligator side to the DW611s housing and forget about it - Just slap the block wherever you need it and conductivity between it and the Alligator side should be routed via the Bit > Collet > Shaft > Brushes/Bearings > DW611 Housing > Alligator Wire end.
At least that's how it works with my setup ( i.imgur.com/WSa3exY.jpg ) though I'm now using a dedicated VFD/Spindle solution instead of a makeshift Router one.
that is a great idea.
Where did you find the material hold downs?
They are oops clamps from suckit dust boot!
Why do you even need a prob can’t you just prob off your work piece and eyeball x and y / place your bit in the corner of the work piece, most people zero from center work piece anyway, ?
can we add tool in carbide motion ?
nope. you can in carbide create.
Ben what program do you use to convert files to SVG?
Carbide Create will do it now with the latest 4xx releases.
✋
lol
I can't find anyone that have successfully upgraded the 3XXL to a larger size. No one has attempted it. Not even winston moy.
vince fab or jpl richard has i think.
You have mistaken Z probing with V bit. You didn't place the probe correctly.
how so?
@@MyersWoodshop at 4:30 I think you used V bit to determine Z, X and Y and few seconds earlier you said that we should use end mills to determine X and Y. In interface you've chosen 1/4" end mill.
At least I understood it this way. May be I'm wrong.
edit: sorry just realised you were probing just Z with that V bit. Got confused probably.
@@kamencic he only determined z with v bit,thé first time..
I know this is just a quick demo, but it was a bit annoying to see obvious movement of the workpiece and the probe block whenever the bit touched the block. Just because something is "hobbyist grade" doesn't mean it should be sloppy about precision.
julioprofe
too bad just like unicorns, they dont exist
They do have that history! But it looks like they're really ramping up production.