Industrial Electronics Repair Use Basic Electronics Knowledge To Fix Just About Anything For PROFIT
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- čas přidán 19. 10. 2022
- LER #312 This repair video was recorded in two sessions and is pretty much unedited. It's quite long but it shows REAL LIVE repair work on a PCB with no schematics and very little information available. This is the control PCB for an emergency electricity backup system (diesel generator and battery) for mains power. Can we fix it? Well it's all just electronics at the end of the day, yeah?!?! Get a coffee or beer and, sit down, learn how to repair industrial electronics and make some serious profit! Enjoy the ride.
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Thank you
Richard
it's after 5 AM now; I started watching at 3 AM and couldn't stop! Great video, thanks for making it and for the lesson on inductors & relays. I maybe can't live without regular 'Learn Electronics Repair' vids 😁
Hi Richard. To easily remove lead-free solder from a printed circuit board, use low melt solder and mix it with the lead-free solder. Then you can easily remove it with your desoldering device. Don't forget to clean with ISO. After that you can safely solder new or the same components back, but this time you use normal lead-containing solder. The simplest and easiest way to remove lead-free solder. I do have to confirm that it is a very difficult circuit board that is made quite cheaply. The solder pads come off very quickly, indicating a non-professional etching of the board. Best of luck with the repair. Greetings from Belgium. Andy.
Judging from the pcb technology I assume this was made before lead free solder became a thing? Or did I miss something in the video?
Iso is overrated. Use a sonic
I appreciate all the industrial electronics repair videos you do, keep them coming! I like seeing how you desolder and like that you show the challenges of it and how you use different methods to achieve each component removal. that's the stuff that is hard to learn on your own without seeing someone else do it.
I think I happened to see a date stamp from ‘95 somewhere
I’ve watched your explanation of bridge rectifiers in several of your videos. Something about the way you explained it here finally made it click. Thank you Richard!
Great stuff as always Richard. Been watching you for a while now and your videos have lead me in the right direction many times to fixing a PCB. I'm taking on as much Industrial electronic repair I can at work (I'm an industrial electrician), so please do more industrial electronics repair! Love these videos.
Electronica industriala implica o serie intreaga de aparate de masura specializate si nu numai, cit si cunostinte aprofundate de electronica Din gama aparatelor de masura fac parte mai intii un multimetru de buna calitate, un, doua osciloscoape cu cel putin doua canale si o banda de fregventa de trecere cit mai mare citeva generatoare de semnal sinusoidal, dreptunghiular si dinte de ferastrau cu fregfvente cit mai mari de preferinta numerice apoi e necesar diverse surse de alimentare cu U-A de preferinta cu U fixe stabilizate intre 3-5 A si una doua cu U-A reglabil in gama 120V si maxim 10A-15A in plus mai sint necesare o gama intrega de sarcini de proba atit inductive dar si rezistive ptru probe in sarcina pe etaje si apoi pe ansamblu Un adevarat atelier de depanare ind este extrem de scump si cu mult peste posibilitatile unui electronist orcit ar fi de bun Prin urmare fie sint asociatii de meseriasi, cooperetive de depanare specializate ori marile fabrici au atelierele lor cu personal calificat si pregatit in domeniu Documentatia aferenta si cunoasterea ei profunda este mai mult decit obligatorie fara acest instrumente nu poti face o depanare corecta, fara ele se chiama bijbiiala si perdere de timp pretios in cazul unor defecte mai profunde, mai complecse
Excellent videos, very informative for me as a novice to see the diagnostic process, method and thought in depth. Your theory 'cut-aways' are also great and very helpful. Please keep them coming. Happy New Year.
I have just retired as an electrician and have found for the last number of years its all electronics as my main area was repairs I find richard what ur doing amazing and very interesting. It looks like determination, patience, skill, and knowledge are needed in abundance, of course, the right equipment also. I feel like a fish and have just been hooked. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge skill & intrest.
Once again, this is brilliant. Thx again for taking the time and effort to put out these videos, as the depth of knowledge/experience gain is unmeasurable, in my ongoing repairs saga. It’s rare that anyone fixes stuff anymore.
BTW, I will once again, try to repair SMPSs, which I swore off long ago.
Nice tutorial on fault finding without a schematic! I also find desoldering on boards with lead free a real pain! Find that using a little leaded solder on the joint does magic. I have a Beltec SC7000 desoldering tool, I poke up the passage after each use, and empty the glass solder tube. I have experienced once a piece of a thin terminal getting wedged into the bit, have made a tool of hardened steel wire, and used it from the inside of the tool when hot, managed to clear the bit. Also I find it is very important to use the right bit for each lead wire and size of pad
Fascinating journey, many thx Richard. I’m not sure but looking at a lot of those components it appeared there was a shortage of solder leaving an opportunity for moisture, and eventually corrosion, to get a grip. Might be worth touching up the soldering generally once you have it back in the land of the living once more. Keep up the great work 😀👍
Hi Richard, Most informative and enjoyable to watch sessions available. Thanks and best regards,
Thank you Richard I thoroughly enjoyed this one.
Thank you Richard. For me electronics is just a hobby, but you have done so much to improve my understanding of the subject. You da man 🙂
Hi Richard, just writing to thank you. You reviewed Tenorshare (data recovery software) a few months ago. I went and bought it and left it on my desktop. Had a friend nearly in tears as her hard drive had crashed in her laptop. There was supposedly a ton of pics on it (some of her husband who had died last year). I connected the drive and ran Tenorshare. It found and recovered 90% of all the files on the HDD. I was really impressed and my friend was over the moon. Thanks again mate !! Keep the vids coming.
That's great to hear such a nice story. I don't normally review software that one was pretty much a one-off as I was impressed with how well it worked. I'll bet she was really happy with the data recovery. 🙂
@@LearnElectronicsRepair hey bro i have gpu i would like to send to u for repair. the issue with it is, whenever i tried to install driver the card would crash an sometimes it don't post at all... please respond thank
@@LearnElectronicsRepair hey bro i have gpu i would like to send to u for repair. the issue with it is, whenever i tried to install driver the card would crash an sometimes it don't post at all... please respond thank
@@LearnElectronicsRepair hey bro i have gpu i would like to send to u for repair. the issue with it is, whenever i tried to install driver the card would crash an sometimes it don't post at all... please respond thank
It is so amazing to watch your videos especially when you draw things and the most beautiful thing in electronics is that it is all about manipulating energy by pulsing it, by redirecting it, switching it on and off to get a certain result, storing it to smooth it, etc.
Thank you so much for your videos.
Greeting from Brazil. :)
Really looking forward to the next Part of this and if you found everything on this one!
Thanks so much. Absolutely brilliant as usual. I learn something from every video.
So good to see everything you do with commentary warts and all.
Your videos educate, confirm that I'm doing some things right, show me where I'm going wrong and provide insight into new techniques all at the same time.
Just one thing.
I'm never sure what temperature to set the heat gun at when using it to desolder.
What do you use/ suggest?
I think that PCB is an AVR(Automatic Voltage Regulator). It controls the output voltage by controlling the input voltage onto the rotor of the alternator. This depends on the frequency of the device/ rotation speed of the alternator. It is a 3 phase generator. 220V single phase (L+N)and 380v phase to phase.
The avr is usually a stand alone board close to the exciter at the back of the alternator. This looks like a main control board due to the multi position switch and the relays.
The avr could be built into this board but all the gensets I worked on year’s ago had separate avr’s.
@@deangriffiths8107 You are most likely correct this is a control board and not an AVR. Maybe this board is monitoring Voltage and Frequency and thus has the buzzer for alarms. Richard will sort it out
Absolutely love this type of work, and watching you doing the same, like you said at the beginning it's all electronics.
When I used to regularly rework prototypes, I used a cheap PCB pre heater - it was very low quality, but getting the whole board hot definitely makes getting components off easier with an iron and heat gun. The boards we did were mostly SMD, but the heavier power components were THT...
Yes I do that too on a lot of videos for SMD. I'm not sure it would have helped here, though i guess I was doing a similar thing using hot air from the rear of the PCB while desoldering some parts
Great Video very informative and an interesting style. More please.
Those switches we still use in the fire alarm industry. We used all the time so we could stick bigger knobs to allow firefighters to be able to control air flow etc while wearing heavy gloves.
Hi Richard when you desolder use flux that helps a lot and also use lowmelt solder and you will see the desoldering from example the bridge rectifer will be very easey.
Use this tips.
Regards Steve from Belgium
Hi Steve there are plus and minus factors to this, I use flux in a lot of my videos, and almost always add leaded solder to the joint to lower the melting point, but when you are working with through hole components (especially ones with many legs) the flux actually makes it worse if using a vacuum desoldering tool. I don't know if you have used that sort of desoldering gun but if you have I am sure you would have experienced this. I think I demonstrated pretty well in this video on the 6 pole switch that it was the mixture of the old solder and leaded that was clogging the tool. Of course different techniques work in different situations, and there are several ways of doing anything. 😉
@@LearnElectronicsRepair yes i know i do not use the soldering gun i use a manual sucker but i find that low melt solder it best works. For soldering through holes a litle bit heat and the component come lose with no resistance. I use it also for mainboard connectors , charger ports and etc. Lom melt is not leaded solder it stays more liquid.
Regards en keep the good movies up👍
Steve
@@LearnElectronicsRepair hey bro i have gpu i would like to send to u for repair. the issue with it is, whenever i tried to install driver the card would crash an sometimes it don't post at all... please respond thank
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Nu ma incurc si perd timp cu fleacuri Tresa de curatat si capul letconului curat bine decapat si incins rezultat garantat far frica de a distruge imprimatu ptru ca timpul de incalzire se reduce substantial iar treaba merge usor si repede
Thx for the vid. When testing the relays, it matters the they move/click, but also important that the contacts (points) are making good contact to close the target circuit.
Asta este simplu de verificat fie cu multimetru s-au atasind sarcina artificiala ( beculete) la contacte Acest procedeu este ceva mai sigur ca forteaza contactele ptru a trece o oarece sarcina(curent A) si atunci poti intelege daca contactele sint bune s-au perlate ( cu rezistenta in contact)
"This is easy to check either with a multimeter by attaching the artificial load (light bulbs) to the contacts. This procedure is somewhat safer as it forces the contacts to pass some load (current A) and then you can understand if the contacts are good, they have pearled (with resistance in contact)"
@@viorelpopescu4990, thank you. I recently had an automotive relay that checked GOOD on the bench being powered by a psu to a digital load tester. I was baffled. Ended up that the coil was failing (unusual I think) and sometimes closed the load contacts with good force, and other times did not. Cheers.
we learn to much things...elct knowlege...technics... being more confidance when we operating with values boards and enjoy so much in this channel... more than we watching a lovely film.
thank you so much sure..
good luck..
You are a very good teacher. Unlike other repair technicians on CZcams, you really troubleshoot and fix to the component level difficult, large circuits in real time (no fast forwarding), which I like because I have poor soldering skills, especially with SMDs.
Frank
Frank Reiser Video/Audio Service
Thank you Richard great video
Always love your videos sir can you please make a video of a laptop repair explaining in details Super IO chip then inductors needed to be tested for power WHEN OFF AND ON
I appreciate your down-home take on this kind of work and life itself. You not only have a new subscriber but a new friend in the States--if you ever find yourself in Oregon--look me up.
You did great pops
Wow, 100 euros seems dirt cheap considering the time and skill set required... I don't know how you could make a living off that! Great video, thanks for sharing!
Can't remember your name but I have the same challenge as you but you have teach me how to get done l have learned a lot from you Mr and I appreciate it the video with the shure Mike wireless system istop also at the coil. Anyway keep sending those videos bless ❤
Love these. Very interesting.
I remember way back early 70’s I used to work on business machines and was plagued with relays of all sorts. For instance a central dictation electronic system where authors could call in and record events- the whole system was connected to the phone network (post office telephones back then). The whole system logic was Electronic except switching heavy loads A(i.e. motors, solenoids) and burn’t contacts were common as well as tiny audio signals passed through gold contacts which would oxidise and cause noise/distortion or even no signal! I was glad to see the back of that thing when they upgraded the system to solid state logic! The power supply was linear and massive (50 volt at 30 amp if I recall with lead acid batteries!) This was specified by the post office telephones as they were very cagey about anything connected to their system! The good/bad old days! Haha
Not sure if you discussed how you bill your time in the video. Do you charge time & materials for a repair like this? I’m wondering what you’d charge for a repair such as this. By the way, thanks for producing this video. I’ve absorbed a lot just by listening to your thought process & watching you work.
Industrial PCB repair ... Don't think there are many who can do this on this island ... I reckon you are going to get more of this ...
Where ?
@@nickyogorman1590 I'm an ex-English guy living on the island Gran Canaria, as does SeeItHappen who regularly pops in to see me for a drink from the cafe next door and a chat about all sorts of techy stuff. Nowadays I consider myself to be 'Nuevo Canarian'
@@LearnElectronicsRepair hey bro i have gpu i would like to send to u for repair. the issue with it is, whenever i tried to install driver the card would crash an sometimes it don't post at all... please respond thank
A good tip for desoldering guns like yours is to keep the trigger pulled for a few seconds when finished desoldering a component and every 5 or 6 legs or so to clear the tube fully as the shaft is not heated all the way to the end.
Yeah some others have said that previously but the solder on this PCB repeatedly clogged the deolder gun. Watch from 01:52:16 where I try to desolder the 2 pole 6 way switch. Once I get rid of the old solder using braid, the gun never clogs at all
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Maybe in situations like this it may be necessary to keep the trigger pressed after each leg. I haven't experienced a board like this yet, so it's just ideas rather than experience I'm offering here. Would love to hear about the outcome of this fix.
@@MrMaxeemum Ideas are good - and experience also 🙂 I've had the displeasure of working on other industrial PCBs like this one before, probably dating from the 90s or 00s and they have a particular type of 'hard' solder you don't find elsewhere, I don't know what the alloy is but it is really nasty to work with and contains a flux that smells very acrid. Whatever it is, it kills desoldering guns as you saw in this video. The way I dealt with it on this video comes down to prior experience with the foul substance. 😝 Maybe someone can tell me what that solder alloy is but it is absolutely horrible to rework
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I suppose it doesn't help with the board being worked on so many times before. The copper may not be attached very well to the PCB in the first place also. I was curious as to whether or not the PCB had become conductive around those burn marks, would love to hear any follow up from this repair. Also how would you deal with it if it still failed to work? The customer obviously wanted it back quickly but surely they can't expect miracles.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair folosirea tresei de curatat este cel mai indicat si sigur lucru
Thanks, yes here I understand inductors much better. I know... about reading schematics, it's difficult to make something that covers all. There is a mountain of different schematics around and varies also from company to company.
In primul rind cunoasterea profunda a schemei este 50% succesul si rapiditatea depanarii
I like to turn the board upside down when using a solder sucker like that. Gravity helps alot. Regards
You are without a doubt the best tech I've seen.. would you be interested in fixing a roland Jupiter 4 keyboard?
sometimes a diode it looks a transistors with 2pin that bolts in to a heat sinks
I admire your patience Richard,! Without a schematic I Would check basics like fuses, is dc being delivered by psu? Diodes , look for dry joints, burns etc! How much do u charge per hour? Excellent video !
That one does two things. One is engine control alarm system. And the other is switching between generator and shore power
I think I’ll take it on and give it a great go..
For the busted resistor , perhaps an effective way to find its correct ohms & wattage value is to tape it (so's it looks intact) , take a photo of it , & do a google reverse image search with the photo ?
Heya, after hearing you talked about industieral pcb and making nice money I talked with the manager technical service were I work at this moment about me doing some repair work for the company he asked me can I do that work that would me an option for the company. so I'll will see what it brings. that is a really bad pcb hope you can fick it waiting for part 2 lol
1:10:04 is a BC557B a standard BJT PNP small signal transistor typically used in the european region. PH means manufacturer is Philips semiconductors(now NXP) hFE 220-475
That makes sense as it is PNP, so not a 2SC5578 as I thought. Thanks.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair hey bro i have gpu i would like to send to u for repair. the issue with it is, whenever i tried to install driver the card would crash an sometimes it don't post at all... please respond thank
Awesome stuff! Definitely upgrade from Windows XP though lol
Always interesting to watch and learn. Those long green wire wound resistors are possibly from ElectroDH a Spanish company i think & still available? Not sure if like most things they are made outside Spain. Although may be better alternatives more easily available to you.
Yeah I'm going up to the two electronic components stores in the capital Las Palmas tomorrow so maybe the will have them, seeing as they are Spanish.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair hey bro i have gpu i would like to send to u for repair. the issue with it is, whenever i tried to install driver the card would crash an sometimes it don't post at all... please respond thank
There are two questions I have. First you did not check the first zener. There could have been a short cut on the print. Second, what liquid do you use to clean the print
Great video. I always had this question about repairing cards. When i worked in a lab, we had everything there to perform any repair and also we tested the equipments. But when you don't have a way to install the pcb back, how do you know that is fixed? do you send it to the client saying that he should test it and then if something goes wrong you check it out again until it's completely repaired, or how does this works?
Intr-un atelier specializat are sursa de sarcina artificiala prin care poate face verificarea completa mai ales acolo unde exista si documentatie In acest caz mi se pare cam pe NV ( ne vazute) Din cite vad sarcina de executie revine direct releelor prin urmare nu are nevoie de sarcina Problema este semnalul de comanda al sarcinii ca vad ca este extrem de procesat Ce semnal primeste De unde? De la ce? Ce forma si nivel etc astea sint date ce trebuiesc cunoscute In situatia data si ce am vazut cercetarea sa rezumat doar la circuitele de executie sarcina, tranzistorii de putere si circuitele aferente de polarizare in situatie statica si cam atit
We all need a bit of voodoo :) cheers for another great tutorial
Waggling a vacuum desoldering tool back and forth is not very effective. It is much better to move the tip around in circles so that the pin is pulled away from the sides of the hole all the way around. It is also important to allow adequate heating time before turning on the vacuum, otherwise all you do is suck molten solder off the top which prevents good heating to the other side of the board. You must be careful not to heat too much or apply too much pressure either of which can damage the pad.
I'd get a wider desoldering tip and may be use the tool horizontally so the heavy solder doesn't have to fight gravity
100 euro, wow that seems cheap for the amount of time and knowledge involved. Thanks for the great content! I have an Allison TCM I need repaired if you would like to have a stab at it sir!
Lead free solder isn't that bad, but lead holding solder does come in handy sometimes
I don’t know if anyone has mentioned to clean the reservoir and the filter so as you have a good air flow
Have you tryed removal with low melt solder it's much easier. 😁 Also i have no problem with lead free just cheap solder. 😁
Hi Rich just wondering if that solder has a high silver content,just a thought ?👍
Interesting how the factory ground off the chip markings on a few chips. I wonder if its because they werent licensed or they were trying to keep people from repairing / reverse engineer it?
I have been meaning to ask. Do you bend those test leads on purpose to get into spaces? Or are they naturally bent by so much pressing?
They just like to bend by themselves over time LOL
the most common false is the power supply when they leaking a it burned out a resistors without any colours with its body’s you can’t tells how may ohms its should be how do you worked outs the correct resistors it should be for me it’s easy is to go back to VIR let’s says 6 volts divided 12 ohms=0.5 Amps to fine out how many watts for a resistors 0.5 multiple by 6volts=3watts maybe I’m right or maybe wrong
I'd love to hear whether it was a positive result. Without having the kit to test it on do you charge the time and parts regardless of whether it actually worked?
Hi good video very informative. But is there a way that you test microprocessors
There are some basic checks you can make - does it have power, is it stuck in reset, is an interrupt pin stuck. does it have a clock, force the data lines to read the equivalent of NOP instruction and the address lines should count upwards. If the job is important (and paying enough) you can reverse engineer the PCB, work out the IO and memory map and then program your own test eproms, or remove the microprocessor and make a little test board with eprom to run simple programs to flash LEDs in sequence etc.. I used to do exactly that sort of work for a company specialising in industrial repair in the 90s. Microcontrollers are far more difficult but you could make a test board to manually or automatically put logic levels on all input pins and monitor the effect on all output pins, using buffers and LEDs - for example use an Arduino to interrogate the microcontroller - at least you may see if it is basically capable of doing something, or just dead.
That wire wound resistor or fuse or whatever it is , looked intact on that photograph, im right at the start of the vid now while commenting so apologies if this gets picked up
Which one?
My dude, you need to buy a desolder gun if you haven’t by now. Checkout the Hakko FR301
Why don't you use low melt solder it will be much faster and easier. And flux also :)
I mostly avoided using flux on this job as it clogs up the vacuum desoldering tool if i decide to use it.
And old school desoldering pump that doesnt push on pads like crazy removing them with the solder, what a mess
So, the part of the circuit not protected with a fuse got burnt several times. We all know that zener will fail again.
I would probably charge somewhere around $1,000 for that especially if it's industrial
Watching you tryig so hard to desolder that bridge rectifier was absolutely painful. A soldering iron will melt the solder on both sides if you dump some fresh solder into the joint. A little bit of leverage and it will fall right out
Don't forget the flux
Sorry , but @ 1:02:20 , why is it acceptable for the relays' diodes to read much lower voltage than spec (~ 0.3 - 0.7) ?
And if you chose to pull 1 of each diode's pins out of circuit , would it then read spec voltage ??
Lead free solder has got to be better for more rigorous environments.
for a start i tested a bridge where 240volts AC that’s feed to its it converts to DC it smooth outs almost 300volts sometimes the resistances go lows it allowing to much currents to past to its if high resistance it will not past enough currents to its if it’s leaking sometimes it allowed DIRECT AC to it and destroyed Avery things or it’s act as dead with outs any voltage at the outs puts it could be a million problems with something’s else’s to fixed this problem sometimes you things you were bone yesterday by going backs to learned ABC to fixed this staff
i repaired lots and lots of things the most comments false findings is the parts they tied it together while’s they still inside the circuits boards sometimes you measured it shows faulty when you pulled it out it measured ok no one’s will want to pulled it outs and put it’s backs against it a nightmare
This is actually my goal is to buy broken electronics and start flipping them for a profit on ebay.
I have a medical issue so it's hard to get work because of gaps but I have unlimited time so even if it takes me like 4 hour to fix something that I can only make 10-20$ off of after reselling its worth it.
That is the best way to learn as you don't have anybody hassling you to finish a repair, it's not a problem if you make it worse than when you started (this will happen while you are learning) and you can put things on one side then come back to them later as your knowledge and skills improve. And yes you can make a good amount of money from doing it.
thanks for the reply
I suspect that that circuit board was dying slowly, as one component after another failed. It didn't happen all at once.
getting parts in the canaries is a pain in the ass. Ali helps but times are very long in some cases. I have not found any online store in the Canary Islands with a good catalog and from the peninsula they simply do not ship. The only thing I found and have used when I need something fast are the pages that manufacture PCBs, in my case I used jlpcb that sells parts and assembles them with a wide catalog. shipping is somewhat expensive (goes by weight and only by FedEx or dhl parcel it cost me €18 but in 15 days I had everything) I ordered a decent order it cost me about €35 several capacitors, power resistors, voltage regulators, and a ic to repair a couple of things at home. the truth is that it is not that expensive considering that it only takes 15 days (although the time will never always be the same) on the island where I live (El Hierro) there is no repair or component shop in the end I end up repairing my things and hoarding a few old PCBs for parts (even if it's for temporary repairs until you have new parts)
Ahh you are on one of the smaller islands then (and the most westerly). We have a couple of electronic component shops in Las Palmas which hold quite a large stock but it is more expensive than buying online. AliExpress are pretty good at delivering here, everything turns up (eventually). I may be able to post something over if you need it and I have it, email me electronicanaria@outlook.com And greetings to a fellow Canarian from Maspalomas
Aliexpress work but times are random, 29 days is the normal but some times is less and sometimes is 3 months (customs is a pain I see expending more than 20 days there's).
I keep the page you use in mi browser for future (thas one I no have)
The last year mi fridge go bad. Power off at random sometimes power off and on randomly. I contact Samsung they say send to repair (yea easy send to Tenerife the only aprov shop) I contact the shop if they sell the board (of course no) so repair Quick is the only option. Don't want the food go bad.
that was a difficult fault to find, the main capacitor was beginning to fail (high SNR not much but), the regulator gave a strange measurement (normally about 500-600 this averages almost 900 in diode for a 7812 family) they were changed.
it failed again a couple of days (as I say the failure is sporadic) in the end it was an SMD capacitor, just below the electrolytic capacitors there is an SMD capacitor -only 10 pf in all caps, probably for emi but no needed whit a 2200nf cap in the same spot- (thanks to the fact that my Thermal Camera arrived I could see that one heated up and cooled down, like a heartbeat a failure that is difficult to see)
a zancer diode is not like a a normal diode it a reversed voltage i used to test it buy applied voltages to it it will tells they go falsely or not
GREAT VID AS ALWAYS -what kind of money can someone charge for this repair? is it a fixed price or per hour ? Thinking of going to board level - been a service/repair engineer for decades,but fancy a change 👍 thanks
The resistor is 3.3 ohms.
can i tear the guts out of a commercial coffee machine and send it to you? XD
nobody's willing to even look at the thing locally
God I feel for you on this pcb you have your work cut out for you for sure.
Previous repairs were not good !
Great... but you need to "Test" the repair at least equal to, or better than, the Customer; ie IN the generator all functions, full temperature range, in the field for 30 or 90 days (warrantied repair at those repair prices is expected). Most businesses will pay you Net 30 to 90, so effectively an invoice "hold", while the Customer tests your repair...
9:00 - I’ve heard of parasitic capacitance and parasitic inductance: can you Tell me what a parasitic diode (figure 1) is?
Maybe considering a fume extractor? health > money
low melt solder richard
Yeah!😄
a modified sinwave wave inverter its best not to plugs a computer in to it or amplifies at all it difference frequencies
I was shouting at you to use your desoldering gun to remove the bridge (you should have been able to get enough heat to travel up the pins to melt / extract the solder on the top layer) but you obviously couldn't hear, or ignored me. Ho, ho.
One suggestion, when searching, is to click on images (instead of all) as you generally see a much wider range and can find something close to the component (to determine wattage etc).
The bridge was not easy to remove as someone else had previously tried. If you watch to the end you will see i intend to replace it with four individual rectifier diodes to make it simpler to fit them - that at least I think is a good plan 😉
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Yes, good idea to use separate diodes. Probably an illusion, the bottom right-hand corner of the IC near your black probe (1:22:42) looks cracked. And, yes, lead free solder was invented by the devil (the only department hot enough to work properly with it).
@@ralphj4012 Ahh yeah I see what you mean, I'll check it tomorrow to see if it is cracked. I hope not, that is one of the chips with no markings🙄
BS 5750 ISO 9001 as EU, UK STANDARDS for all of branches of all industryr in Britain to not include independent countries where I have no knowledge.
Prior to the early 1990s and the advent of the introduction of BS 5750 there were independent electronic repair shops. Manufacturer's didn't repair in most cases unless it was a small company. A spinoff of radio and TV and then R&TV became "board changers" on cost grounds and skills to repair evaporated and WIRING DIAGRAMS!
There was working Internet for more years to source backup knowledge except in very limited numbers.
The key statement that became a source of huge revenue, "ALL REPAIRED CIRCUIT BOARDS ARE SUB-STANDARD. Insurance cover became an issue.
The legal recognition of, British Gas CORGI then replaced by Gas Safe as a representative of the Health and Safety Executive to regulate the use of natural gas and bottled gas throughout Britain and I would conclude the EU. Gas boilers became hybrid with automatic boilers controlled by time locks and thermostats from the 1950s. Then fully electronic, automatic ignition with larger PCBs because modulated flames for greater efficiency similar to the effect of an accelerator in a vehicle.
PCBs became single use with the same label substandard if repaired and boiler manufacturer's only sold new quality spare boards.
Circuit boards should be repairable with regard to producing unwanted electronic waste with precious metals included.
Gosh.. sometimes your knowledge scares me lol😅
Hi, where are you based ?
Gran Canaria
C557 is not 2SC557. it is just BC557
It is complete and utter nonsense to say that there is very little or no current flowing out of one end an inductor when current is flowing into the other end. That is simply contrary to the way current flow works. For each and every electron that goes in one end of an inductor another electron flows out the other end. The current into one end is *_exactly_* equal to the current flowing out of the other end. The current through an inductor _does_ start at zero when voltage is first applied across it, assuming it was fully discharged to begin with.
You do not have to use a diode across a relay coil. There are several methods to provide a discharge path for the coil inductance.Diodes are very common but they delay the start of opening of the contacts and slow the opening once it has started because they lengthen the time it takes to discharge the inuctance. This can cause arcing of the contacts to be worse. Techniques that allow higher voltage across the coil when discharging the inductance shorten the delay and speed separation of the contacts.
di/dt = V/L
Lead free solder is good. We have to stop using lead when we have alternatives because it is fucking terrible for people and the environment. Especially when the reasons for not using it is a slight inconvenience, come on dealing with lead-free solder isn't that difficult.
You use it if you prefer it, I have no problem with that whatsoever 😉
To persuade me to like it, can you tell me what I need to do to stop it clogging up my vacuum desoldering tool (as clearly proven in this video)
Lead sure is toxic, like all heavy metals, but only when it gets into the environment (by means of leaded petrol/gasoline, lead in childrens' toys etc), where it eventually ends up accumulating in living organisms.
However, a PCB with leaded solder poses no risk to anyone by itself. I've always suspected that lead-free solder mostly serves as an excuse to keep chucking electronic waste into landfills, rather than recycling it properly.
Lead is extremely easy to recycle due to its low melting point. Case in point: Look up the recycling process for lead-acid batteries.
Bismuth and cadmium are not that good for you either and they are in solder,so where do we draw the line ?
You are getting salty about the salt on the board lol
Quite possibly LOL
sweeet .... good rant on censorship
The C557 might be a BC557, ...common in those days as a plastic version of the canned BC107. ...but I could be wrong :)
I'm at 42:20 intthe video, and I predict the R that blew up was part of a zener regulation, which now went to ground! ...hope no egg on face later :)
Just cut the dead diode out, then easy remove stubs left! :)