Control Arm Bushing Preload, Important Information!
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- When changing out your control arms it is very important to install your control arms correctly. It is an easy enough job, but doing it incorrectly can leave you with a control arm that wears out quickly. When you install the control arm and bolt it down to the car's frame, you should keep the bolts to the frame loose, put the tires on, put the car on the ground, and then torque down the bolts to the correct torque with the car on the ground. This will set the proper pre-load.
How to Replace an Upper Control Arm: • How to Replace a Contr...
How to Replace a Lower Control Arm: • Replacing Lower Contro...
Camber Bolt Installation: • How to Install Camber ...
How to Replace a Ball Joint: • How to Replace a Ball ...
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Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.
Good video, and an important point, but it's worth pointing out that many people will have vehicles where it's impossible for them to access the bolts once the wheels are back on the ground. In those cases, they can leave the vehicle on the jackstands and jack up the axle (or each individual wheel if they have independent suspension) to create the same loading effect before they torque the bolts.
I was going to ask this. Good to know.
dunebasher1971 I was just thinking the same thing. I have a lowered truck
Andrew Bowles when I replaced my control arms I placed a jack underneath the lower ball joint and lifted it up that way. then I tightened the CA's bolts. then I put the tire back on.
Yes but how do you know how much to jack up the suspension to where it would normally be?
e.g. you could measure the distance between wheel centre and wheel arch before changing the control arm. then jack up the wheel to the same height.
This is the only thing on the internet that explains the bushing and control arm relationship.
Sadly fr!!
Brother you are making such a great contribution for all the DIY'ERS. It's often the little things that make a huge difference. Intelligent people enjoy sharing thier knowledge, not weaponizing it. I've been very lucky to have had a lot of great people willing to share thier knowledge. It's the greatest empowerment of all . That puts you Chisfix in a group our country needs . Compliments where acknowledgement is certainly deserved. You score high in my judgement of character. I appreciate people like yourself . It made a difference in my life and you too will make a big difference in even more peoples lives. Great Job! Very sincerely Clay.
Thanks a lot Clay! That's what it's all about!
Watched 3 of your videos and then subscribed. I like that you get straight to the point and that you get the camera into those crevices and actually show what's happening with the various components while operating.
An alternative might be to place car load on jack stand under lower arm end. This will allow more room to access the control arm bolts. On some vehicles it will be difficult to reach these bolts w/ tire in place.
Thanks Chris,
I had just replaced both rear lower control arms, struts, and trailing arm bushings on my 2001 Honda CR-V and was noticing a bunch of strange noises. I'm sorta meticulous (but by no means a car expert) and I knew I had torqued everything correctly with good quality torque wrench but started to check into bushing design. After I realized how they really work I did a google search and this video popped up. I loosened all the bolts, drove it around a mile or so then came back and did just what you said. I Drove it around a few more miles and the effect was stunning. Hardly any noise at all. Thanks for putting up this video. Nice to have someone who knows cars affirm my screw up.
You're videos are absolutely amazing... seriously!! I love being able to dive into a project, after watching one of your videos, with the upmost confidence. Not sure the reason why you ever started posted videos so many years ago, but I for one am glad you did...and kept making them. Thanks ChrisFix, for donating your time to make these for the rest of us!!
I agree I love working on my cars and I always find great correct instructions through Chrisfix and a few others. I'm going to have to change my control arm bushings probably tomorrow if I get them ordered and delivered quickly. I've been driving for to long with them out like over a month. It's starting to get dangerous. It's because I didn't have the money to get them until now and had no one to help me. Thank you so much this was very important beneficial information you taught me right now and it's going to make the procedure less stressful.
Pre-load and proper torque are two of the most important and overlooked aspects of working on suspension systems. I've used the jack method dozens of times, and final torque adjustment is also easy to do on the alignment rack.
Fluffy65 If you use the jack method with tire off for more room to access the bolts, how do you know how much to jack up the suspension to where it would normally be?
You have to measure distance between wheel arch and tyre - both with car on the ground and jacked up. The difference between distances will tell you how much you need to jack up the hub assembly.
Boris Savka Wheel arch and tire? Could you elaborate? Thanks
Ok, here it goes:
1. With car on the ground, measure distance between wheel arch and top of the tyre.
2. Jack up the car - on the side, where you measured.
3. Again, measure the distance between wheel arch and top of the tyre. Since wheel is in the air now, the distance will increase.
4. The difference between the distances (car on the ground vs. jacked up) will tell you, how much you need to jack up the hub assembly to give it a proper preload.
On the other hand, this method - i think - will never properly replicate the car being fully on the ground. Mounting pit or certain types of vehicle lift will give you access under car, with car sitting on all 4 tyres.
Good luck !
Boris I am trying to understand your wheel arch method. With the tire on the ground could I measure the distance from the bottom of the lower control arm and the ground and then jack it up remove tire and then jack up the lower control arm the same distance and then do the final torque setting.
Just had the same noise on my car after replacing the lower control arms. I thank God for this post and all you smart mechanics, because I followed directions and everything is working as advertised!
I decided just to drive over and have you do all the work! You do a very good job in your videos and post-production. Thanks!
+Kerry Hales Thanks a lot!
Yes! thank you Chris I'm getting ready to change all my control arm bushings and I haven't thought about preload until now. and I see where you suggested to jack under the lower control arm with the tire off to simulate the car tire being on the ground. That's how I'm going to do mine! Thank you for all your videos!
This guy is AWESOME! He's straight to the point. Get in. Get out. Job done! With great descriptions and camera view. The way ALL CZcams diy videos "should be".
Make sure you put your tires on the ground before tightening those control arm bolts!!!
Dude wished you would have told that before I finished
patrick cordery lol same here. Did mine a few weeks ago. Will have to go back in and adjust them. Don't think it will be fun trying to tighten them with the tire on tho.
patrick cordery I thought I remember telling you that? If not, my bad. I am editing an adjustment to the control arm video. I just learned this myself if it makes you feel any better lol.
ProtectionDirect I had to adjust mine as well. It isnt too bad with the tire on the ground. A little tight but not too bad.
ChrisFix Said a man driving a truck :) and then imagine honda fan watchinh ur vids xD
Just did all four uppers on my Envoy. Used a sizzor jack to lift the lower control arm high enough to make the side I was working on lift just off the jack stands. Easy to then reach in and give the bolts that final full last turn. Thanks for the tip.
For people with no clearance to torque when on the ground,Try using a standard 1/2" drive ratchet to snug up the bolts real tight when car is peloaded and on ground..Even though clearance is tight and a reuglar 1/2" drive torque wrench wont fit in there you should still be able to get good torque and very snug tighten the bushings with the ratchet..That should lock the bushings in place under preload...Now u can jack the damn thing way up, pull the wheel and apply the full final torque with the torque wrench..
If anyone sees any flaws in this advice, please comment..Im only trying to offer alternative to a tough situation..My car is probe gt, just did the 2 front lower control arms and the damn bolts were siezed to the bushings.2 weeks of spraying pb blaster and what utlimately got it free was the air chisel ahmmer on the bolt to back it out of the arm and bushing..and yep, the say bar links had to be cut off!
It's crazy because I was aware of the need to do this after I replaced tie rods and control arms on my '93 Taurus. The tie rod replacement went pretty well but the control arms were a curse. The support rod that connects to the control arm would not come out and had to be removed along with the control arm then I had to fight with it off the vehicle and ended up cutting the old control arm in order to free the support rod that I had to have in order to put it back together with my new control arm. It really was a nightmare and I had to have my medication adjusted and extend therapy sessions for another year but...I did finally get it all reassembled and amid all this distraction and suffering, I forgot to preload the suspension before I torqued everything to spec. I was just so relieved to get it reassembled and when I got the whells back on it and off the jack stands I started on a test drive...yeah....I got to the end of the alley ( about 30 yards ) and knew something was FUBAR. It felt like I was driving on a flat tire on the front end so I eased it back to the garage and the light bulb came on.....damn....I was supposed to put weight on the front suspension before tightening every back up. Anyway...now I have to figure out the best was to set the front suspension down so there is weight on it, with the tires off because there is no way to get to stuff with the tires on. I just wonder what the best way will be without doing any damage to the front suspension? Always something I guess. My life is very different than so many of these "perfect world"---"easy fix"----clean and rust free vehicle youtube videos. It is very raw and real over here in the real world. Replacing the tie rods and control arms has been 2 full days in the garage and I am still needing to do what I mentioned above.
awesome video, love how you show the Rubber Bushings Move when the Vehicle is on the ground. Very detailed excellent. Thank you.
Lucksh Y Thanks man! I try to get the best/coolest angles so that everyone can see what is happening!
Thank Chris 😃 I'm going to tackle this project soon replacing the lower control arms, wheel bearings, inner tie rods, adjuster sleeves, power steering lines, front quick struts. Your vids do help.
Testable DaddyO Awesome! Let me know how it all goes! I am glad that my videos are helpful!
Thanks for tips. Cause I did my lower control arms without caring about the car load. I did tight all the way in and I had a nightmare. My front clunked and no answer to my endless questioning, why did I do wrong with my car. Finally someone tells me the reason why. Thanks for your help!
This is a very important tip! More tips like these, please Chris.
Cool great explanation on how upper arms moves and tied the bolts! Thanks Chris
Thank you chris, saved me. But I did mess up and tightened the bolt while the wheel is still off but thankfully my car has still been sitting on jacks this whole time. SO now I know to losen the bolts some before finishing my front suspension and lowering my car. Thanks again!
I’m glad I found this video, I was going to torque up my upper and lower control arm tomorrow.
I'm going to be replacing my upper control arms & ball joints on my 97 mercury mountaineer & glad i found your video's there very helpful ! I was mechanic for many years before quiting & just doing whats needed to keep it on the road it's not drove a lot but i know there bad !
How'd that go for u? Mercs are pains to work on
Watching your videos as I’m going to change lower control arms of my car tomorrow. Really helpful, I would have missed this part if I didn’t watch this video. Thanks Chris.
Good point. Not everyone pays attention to small but important details like this
Jesse Woody Thanks Jesse. That is why I make my "how to" videos! Glad it was helpful!
Thanks, Chris. That was a very helpful explanation. I finished the upper and lower ball joint replacement on my 2000 Mazda B3000 several days ago, and forgot that you'd mentioned that it's best to tighten the bolts when the truck was on the ground. This video explains why. I'll go check the bushings and re-do the tightening process today. Thanks, again, for all the great videos! You've saved me a ton of money.
Gertie Craign Great! I am glad the video reminded you! I am glad my videos are saving you a lot of money!
Amen. I see too many videos that are lacking this step.
chris fix every mechanic's hero, the best in under chassis repair!
You probably just saved me from ruining all the bushings on my lift. Thanks for this.
Ya I have a car that is almost impossible to get under when car is on the ground. So I put a jack under bottom control arm and raised it until it comes of jack stand. I than tightened all the bolts from there. Atleast people know they have to be under weight load to tighten them either way. Appreciate the videos man.
I'm glad you came back with this info. I had forgotten to torque under load.
Joseph Delk Glad the info was helpful!
Gonna tell you right now, you MUST do this. You have to preload all control arm bushings. If you have a lowered car like mine, you simply measure the height from the center of the wheel hub to the center of your fender well arch while the car is on the ground, sitting on its tires and wheels. After you snug up the new control arms, you jack up the suspension to what you measured while the car was on the ground, re-measure from the center of your rotor/hub with the wheels off obviously, and then torque the bolts. I made sure to write down the measurements because our garage floor is not level, and of course each measurement was slightly different for each side because the floor is slightly sloped. Take into account how level your parking surface is. Anyway, I did this and have had ZERO issues since. I had the same guy put control arms and bushings on my car twice and in less than 8k miles, every single bushing was cracked, falling apart and some were missing COMPLETELY. The work was done improperly both times. I finally just decided to do things myself and it paid off. This video certainly helped as did a few others. This just goes to show you that just because someone has been working on cars for years doesn't mean they know everything, as he apparently didn't. Very nice guy but just not as good as advertised with mechanic work. How did he not know about preloading bushings? 😂 Costed me several hundred dollars basically. Do your research. Just because you think you know what you're doing doesn't mean you do!
This is the best car fixing channel on CZcams :D
I'm glad this is your favorite car fixing channel on CZcams!
Great video! I like how you marked the bushing and arm so that we could see the movement as it was lowered.
While you're in there, replace the sway bar end links. It's a five minute fix that will cut down on squeaking and clunking. Maxing out the suspension will often damage old sway bar bushings in the links.
You can also measure your drive height from axle to the bottom of the fender the put a jack under the hub and jack it up until it is at the proper drive height then tighten everything up to it's given torque value, which can be easier with the tire off and car in the air.
Awsome!!! Doing uca bushings and broke the bushing tool. So I sent it to a shop today they're still having problems . But hey when I get em back I know how to pre load em up cheers dude !! Vancouver bc !
Good job! This is a very important point left out of many instructional videos
Again Chris.....great, and important information, that most home mechanics would not know about! ;)
glenniz1 Glad the video was helpful!
Now i know why my bushes wear out in two weeks..thanks mate for pointing that out.
Excellent information. Thanks
This is a good point. Mazda dealership just replaced my. Lower control arms. Felt like driving on ice because they're obviously loose.
I put my passenger side control arm on and still have the driver side control arm left to do. Will do this next time. Couldn’t finish threading the caliber bolts b/c I didn’t have a deep socket to use. But thanks for the tip Chris Fix.
Hi Chris, I always enjoy your videos. You are very clear and concise. I'd like to suggest one more thing which will help with Bushing Preload. Whenever I dropped my Hummer H2 (similar suspension to Chevy 2500HD pickup), the camber bolts shifted. The weight of the truck made it impossible to set my camber bolts for correct alignment. So I jacked it up again, applied molybdenum grease on the metal ends of the bushings, then tightened the camber bolts to about 60 ft-lbs. With the camber bolts more than snug, they didn't shift under the weight of the truck. But one end was still loose enough to allow me to do fine camber adjustment before I fully torqued the bolt down. The grease doesn't interfere with the bushings' function at all, because the tension on the camber bolts clamps the bushings in place very firmly. But it allows some slippage, which will prevent the bushings from getting torn if I reach the end of suspension travel.
auxpowerunit That is a great tip man! Thanks for sharing!
It might be an old video, but I'm glad it's still on you tube. And I subscribed right away to your channel. I'm just about to replace the bushings of my old Kia sportage (2001) and your video's are very helpfull. Thnx a lot!
Thank you sir, just about to change my fronts! I like to research first lol.
Thanks for the video! I have ramps for reasons like this.
Wish I saw this before I did my control arm 1 month ago lol. Good information here Chris, thanks!!
AllKind808 No problem! Glad the video was helpful!
Once again great ChrisFix video. Best youtube car diy presenter.
Thanks a lot!!
U rock man! I needed this for my control arm for ford focus mk2
Thanks a lot!
How about lower control with low riding cars? You can't fit down there when car is down.
My challenger is lowered can you use a jack to preload the bushings
That makes sense, now I know what the rubber sound is when I go over a bump on my new UCAs
That is one nice clean Ranger frame. Wish mine looked like that.
Thank you man this is exactly what I've been looking for!!!! Great job with the details and what is what not a bunch of BS like most vids on here! 👍💯
your a genius... wish I watched this a day ago....
+exoduslnx Thanks!
I replaced my lower ball joint but I had to take the LCA out to do so. I tighten the LCA while still in the air and now my truck rides rough. I did go back and adjust the LCA while my truck was on the ground but it still rides rough, a little better but still rough (bottoming out) and feeling every bump. Your Help is needed here, Thanks
Hey thank you for making this video, it was fast and informative!
Good point...
You can jack the hub up to ride hight and then tighten the bolts up with the tire off👍
Thanks Chris
🎉great info.
Instead of putting the tire on could I just put a jack under the lower control arm and raise the suspension that way?
damagingspark7 You could do that, especially if you wont have enough clearance to get in there with the tire on the car!
Better for small cars, I'll try to do this later in our toyota corolla. (Nov. 02, 2018)
@@draxus1266 How did it go? I'm replacing my control arms tomorrow in my corolla. Do you know if any control arm links have be greased in any way?
@@alexcoulson7321 Hi bro, it's been several months (6 months to be exact) since I replaced the Control Arm Bushing(BIG only, small looks still in good shape) of our Corolla 9th Gen. I remember that I preloaded the suspension almost same with Chris procedure through wheel loads (which could give smaller room for work), though I think it won't do huge effect in Big bushing but with small it might when installing it back.
Regarding control arm links, are you pertaining to roll bar end links? If your asking about if the end links are still with grease you may try to inspect by hand by twisting (middle rod) or trying to move it back and fort if it's still resisting and wasn't too movable your end links are still fine. When their in bad shape they clunks most of the time which are so apparent to be replaced as soon as possible.
@@alexcoulson7321 Well anyways bro, are you done replacing? It's been 2 days since your message sorry for my late response.
The 'tighten on the ground' (i.e. preload before tighten) only applies to OEM-style rubber bushings where the rubber is bonded to BOTH the outside metal sleeve and inside metal sleeve. However, for aftermarket polyurethane bushings, the metal sleeve is supposed to rotate against the poly bushings so it can be tightened whenever! Just FYI.
Wow...another mechanic's top secret to a proper repair revealed by the "do it yourself"s" best friend, Chris! Thanks doesn't do you justice my friend.
A LeBlanc I am just trying to teach others what I have learned!
Either does screwing customers out of their money by overcharging them.
Not many people inform us about preloading. I'm about to replace the upper control arm on my gfs 07 mazda 6. Need to check that i can reach those two bolts with the car on the ground before i start. Thank you.
Excellent my mechanic made this mistake 3 times on my car so now he has to re torque cause I'm hearing a little bushing movement
Glad the video was helpful!l
excellent information.. thank you
Very good tip! Useful for all cars around the world...:)
marco77acv Thank you! That is my goal!
That was a great point. Thanks will definitely do!
Thanks for all your help.Very pro.......
Awesome tip
I assume this matters only for rubber bushings. Poly bushings are free to pivot all around, so it shouldn't make any difference IMO.
also need to point out that anyone that installs a lowering or lift kit on their car or truck should also reset the preload...any change in ride height changes it
Thank you so much for that tip!!!
awesome quick and well instructed. keep them coming..
Great video as always, Chris👍
Great video. I commented on your vid awhile back saying this, it's a VERY common mistake. Great video!
Ryan Richards Yes, and this is why I made this video so thank you very much Ryan!
Yes, I've made this mistake too. Prior to CZcams I'd torque my axle while still in the air. Remember to look up your torque specifications! Some cars will surprise you. Some axles are supposed to be hand tight while mine needs to be 160 ft.lbs. Big difference.
Wow!
Very good!
Great information Chris.
Just giving my input. If you have air suspension, you will need to slowly lower the vehicle onto ramps while the vehicle is running until it rises on its own accord. Once it reaches operating height....then torque them.
Thanks for sharing!
@@chrisfix thank you! Your content is extremely helpful to thousands of people for sure. :)
Good to know! I am replacing the upper control arm on my car and I would not have known this! Thanks #ChrisFix
Glad the video was helpful and you learned something new!
Excellent video Chris, good tip it really is over looked.!
very good to know. thanks
Thanks good Video
@ChrisFix Can we leave the bolt/nut a little loose, so that bushing will move on the bolt instead? in this way, the arm moves freely up and down, and I think the bushing will last much longer. Thanks!
You're going to want it a little loose when you drop the car then you'll torque it to spec once it's on the ground, I wouldn't set and leave anything loose intentionally since there's a good chance it can come out while you're driving
Question on preloading.
Are you able to just use a secondary jack to apply the load? Example; using the lower control arm to lift car/truck for that preload?
Also, would uneven preloads cause a vehicle to have an uneven left right bounce, almost like a single wave motion?
Impressive thank you so much!!
Yeah thanks for that tip! I just replace the control arms on my Grand Caravan and it's really too low to torque everything with the vehicle on the ground. So with that in mind would it be better to try to put the wheel back on and then jack up the wheel to load the suspension? And then torque everything?
Excellence in tutorial
This is the first of your videos I’ve seen but I’m glad I did! And I plan on checking out other videos you have! Thank you bud!
Quick tip lower onto ramps with tires for easier access
I see the logic to do this, however I would find it hard to believe the factory preloads on the assembly line.
You’re right they probably don’t but Are your bushings failing? Mine are.
On my car how the heck are you supposed to tighten it with preload if the strut is in the way?? Let alone with the wheel on. I mean I could try a spring compressor but I'm not going to I'll take my chances.
You do a great job with your videos!
good video chris, like all your videos, very helpful. thanks mate.
I expanded my arm trying to remove the bushings with a turnbuckle after falling to get them out with a press and c clamp
Any idea if I go to straighten, will I keep the integrity or do you think it would be problematic
hmm good point. This doesnt apply to me however because I have a 30+ year old front end design that only applys pressure to 1 side of the bushing, the other side is basically free to do whatever it pleases it also has a rod the bushing sits on non-threaded.
Thank you Chris !!
Hi Chris, if the control arm bolts were fully tightened while the vehicle was in the raised position, and the vehicle had been driven around afterwards, would it be too late at this point to loosen the bolts and retighten them as directed in this video?
wow your videos are SO MUCH BETTER than scotty kilmers. +10000000 subscribed.
Cody Shell Thanks a lot Cody! Glad you subscribed! New videos every Thursday and most Mondays!
ChrisFix will stay tuned for sure! Going to do a ball joint relocation with a spacer on my trooper for some better articulation so i was checking our your videos ended up watching a ton of them. I have some videos of that trooper on my channel if you wanna check them out! haha. keep up the great content! love the camera work, really well done.
Cody Shell Thanks man! I will def check out your videos right now!
ChrisFix Awesome! thanks man! theyre nothing serious, making videos is just a little side hobby
Cody Shell Just have fun and that is all that matters! I like the snorkel! Did you put that in?