My Rope Solo Setup For Climbing By Myself | How To Get Lost Educational Series
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- ** Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport/activity. This video is for educational and entertainment purposes. DO NOT attempt the activities performed in this video without the proper training from a certified professional. **
In this video I show how I setup MY rope solo system as I talk about some of the gear I use. This setup allows me to go climbing outdoors by myself in areas that have easy access to top rope anchors. There are many ways to create a system like this, this is just one option.
Always do your research before preforming these activities. These systems are intended for advanced user and NOT for people who are new to climbing.
Petzl Guidelines for rope soloing systems: www.petzl.com/...
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Technical climbing videos are difficult to make, because you leave yourself exposed to the many variables in these systems. I use the two rope method, with a micro traxion and a grigri. I thought you did a good job with this video. What route is that at the Gorge??
Thank you for the kind words! It's weird trying to get the things you know so well in your head out into words in front of an inanimate object!
I do my demonstrations on "Knob Job" on the main wall! Easy to set up and usually pretty quiet!
@@HowToGetLost Thanks! Maybe we climb together some time?
@@adventureswithgregandjanic4222 I think I have my email listed in the "about" section. Feel free to reach out!
Thank you for the interesting and informative video.
I really liked that you doubled down on redundant systems and even kept the figure eight at the top redundant. That is very good practise.
One point though: MOST of the climbing accidents with fatalities come from changing between tie -in system without proper pre -weighting the new one. My suggesting: keep the PAS attached, weight the new system (your self belay device) and then detach the PAS (when showing slack). This way you are always secured redundantly in case you mess up the rappel system in any way.
Anyway: cheers and thanks for the video.
That's a great suggestion and feedback. I realized during editing that I did skip that step and didn't make it clear that there should be a step where you test your rappel setup before descending. It's definitely one of those things where you do it so often that you forget that not everyone has the same experience or steps. I do plan on making that a point on any future videos that demonstrate those practices!
Great video! Looks like fun and a solid system. I'm by no means an expert, but one thing I might add for your viewers - If you're going to TRS with any progress capture device that doesn't release under tension (like the MicroTraxion), you should know how to escape the system using an ascender/friction hitch/foot loop/etc. If you're in a situation where you can't reach the anchor or some other place to attach your PAS, you need a means to release that device and descend. Have fun out there!
I was actually thinking about that today when I was out climbing. I will definitely do an addendum video for that exact thing!
Nice clear video. Having climbed like this alot I wound suggest two modifications to your setup. Firstly I extend one of my capture devices with a quickdraw sling (or what I think you guys in the US call a dog bone) fitted with two lockers. This helps to seperate the devices to ensure that they can't possibly interupt each others effectiveness. The second is to use a sling or (preferably) a length of thin bungy cord around your chest and shoulders connect to the carabiner of each capture device. This will keep them in place in the same position they would be when weighted. It means that the shock to the rope, carabiners, your body and the devices is minimised. It is only a small difference but does add a small margin of safety to this system. I hope that so made sense!😊
Second the bungee cord thing. Nice to let go with almost no drop (on a static rope)
I might have misunderstood, but do you attach *both* progress capture devices to your chest harness via bungee?
I have never seen that before. Can you please explain why both, it seems counterproductive to the separation of both devices.
Thanks.
Nice video. I use both sides of the rope method, with a camp lift ascender and grigri, and then a catastrophe knot once i get 15ft off the ground. It's a clunky setup, but its super bomber.
Clunky and super bomber were my nicknames in college!
For anybody freaking out, the teeth on the micro-traxion are only there to prevent slippage (e.g with frosty ropes or whatever), it's good old camming action that blocks the rope.
There are some test videos only that show that in this scenario rope damage caused by the teeth is actually pretty unlikely.
@kusteontour Fully agree. Using a rope like this will definitely cause wear in the long run. It's a bit of a fine art/guesswork as to when to retire a rope but by thoroughly and regularly checking your rope you can easily mitigate serious risk. I guess that, unless there is serious visible damage, replacing a rope once a year that is used like this isn't really expensive. Maybe work out at $10 per month which is certainly cheaper than gym membership or say petrol/gas costs! Ropes are generally alot tougher than we give them credit for though.
Nice video. Thanks. I used to do some rope solo. I used a DMM buddy. With a mini traxion as backup on a single rope. I trusted my system (obviously). But think yours is simpler and better. Cheers
Glad you mentioned the weight on the end of the rope. Feel like most people only learn after struggling with a non auto feeding device
That is what I was looking for! Thanks!
Been using an almost identical setup for about a decade except i have the second traxion extended and attached to sling going around my shoulders - trying to avoid shockloading the traxion onto the rope (traxions can desheath the rope at 5kn). if you're on overhanging terrain bring an ascender, prussick, footloop etc, something to get you unstuck and able to rappel
I'd assume it would be low shock loading on TR?
@@TF-uk2gn Very low, granted the traxion is tracking up the rope smoothly. I'm sure this guy's method is perfectly fine too
For redundancy Petzls advise is to use different devices
This is correct, they do suggest it on their fixed rope rope solo guide. The rationale is to prevent the same type of functional failure that may happen with the primary device, therefore using something that operates differently will provide a better layer of risk mitigation.
I have been meaning to do/edit together a video talking about doing things the "right" way and what it means to understand the risks of doing things a certain way. This would be a good example of understanding the risk and making a choice based on the available knowledge and the comfort level of the person operating the system. Maybe soon!
I’m literally doing this for the first time by myself. Wish me luck!
Dude this video is really awesome!
I instantly recognized that you were at Mission Gorge ❤
This is a great video. I really wanna go try this , probably on this same route since this is my local crag and I’m very familiar with these routes
hey man! very nice video, thank you for sharing. I was wonder, if you are working on a harder limit project and have to work the moves many times, is there a way to descend the rope with the micro traxions or you would need to transition to a rapel device every time? And if so, how do you do it smoothly? Thanks dude!
Great video!!
Thought on using a grigri as the second device? like this already on rappel. But cons are that you have to manage the rope by pulling it through instead of auto feeding
I know plenty of people that use a GriGri for their second device. As you said, it adds another layer of rope management, but on the other hand it gives you the ability to release under load in case you are projecting a particularly cruxy section.
But as always, have a plan and research some techniques and strategies!
darn you did a greet job with this video, one of the best Ive seen. keep it up. I use a lift as primary and micro as back up. I ordered a Lov3 weeks ago and still waiting lol. I see you havnt modified your micro, same here but many do. I use a single strand but been thinking of using both strands for more redundancy. I use a gri gri to descend because I thought the weighted rope would work as a fire mans belay. I much rather use my ATC and will try that next time, thanks for the info.
Thanks for the kind words! Keep me updated about your system, I would love to hear about other methods. The nice thing about climbing systems is there are always new ways of doing things. As long as you are following some basic risk mitigation strategies, there really are several good ways of doing this. Stay safe out there and have fun!
@@HowToGetLost Yup so many ways and I love seeing how others do it. My moto is there is no right way just a safe way.
Looks safe. The disadvantage is, that you cannot go up and down during the climb e.g. for projecting.
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Yup, it definitely makes it harder to work on crux moves and projects overall. Kind of the tradeoff for having a solo experience.
I thought the conventional wisdom on TRS is to stay below projecting grades, and within your ability zones.
@@JJBlairrecording Some people use it for projecting hard moves. But you are correct, it is not recommended.
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Cool video. Im gonna try the double capture-pully system. I've been using a grigri with an edelrid capture pully as a backup, but the grigri takes more tending to. I climb out at MG when I'm in san diego at least a few times a year. Hopefully I'll run into you and can say hi. Thanks!
Cool vid. So, if you are going dual strand, you just do a side by side. I guess they can't interfere that way. It had never occurred to me do do it like that, but I usually just do single strand with spaced MT's, unless I'm on a route with a ton of edges.. BTW, why do you bother with an anchor and master point? Why not just bunny ears into straight into the anchors?
Mostly just to stay in the habit, but also this ledge is a little slick, so it allows me to clip into a master point with my PAS and work in the area. More utility than anything, but if you were just running straight laps it would be overly complicated.
big willi sighting!
A piece of advice. I want to start saying that I cannot fully give assesment on your system, but, from what I could see in the first minutes, depending on how you rigged your rope in the tope anchors, you could easily die any given day. See, of course your trapping pulleys will do their catching job, but, as you mentioned yourself, you are in a loop, and its a loose one; so, and here is the important part, if just one of your pulleys catches the fall (and the other doesnt), you will fall with a grabbed strand that will slide alonside to the bottom with you. Your fall factor may be so huge that for saying the least, you could brake your back, hips and legs. Please meditate it.
The top rope anchor is shown in the video. The issue you describe does not exist in this system, this isn’t a recoverable rappel setup.
@@Amadeus7861 Great. Thanks for the follow up.
Great video! Are you ever concerned about the two microtraxions bumping up against each other and triggering the release mechanism? Would there be any benefit to extending one of them upward slightly (perhaps one or two loops up your PAS)? Thanks!
In the current setup I don't see any way that they could bump into each other causing them to release. This is mostly because:
1. The releases are under the devices and require an upwards push
2. The Micro Traxions cannot be released under load. Because of this you have an advantage (they won't accidentally release) and a disadvantage (they need to be unloaded to lower yourself)
@@HowToGetLost Thanks for the reply! That makes sense. Definitely wasn’t expecting it to release under load, but was thinking more about some unfortunate bump on the up motion. I’ll play around and practice this a bit. Seems cleaner than many other systems I’ve seen
Great video! My question is: Is there a way to go down in the middle of the route for example if you're practicing a few moves, and if so how?
Can you explain how you fixed the rope at the anchor to make it redundant?
I feel like I might have covered it in the other video, but I forget!
Essentially I tie a double figure 8 on a night. I don't recall the technical term for the knot, but it is commonly called "bunny ears". This will give you a bunch of redundancy as well as two fixed lines. I just use lockers to tidy it all up!
Have you tried the nano traxion?
California+painted nails, tracks
Thanks for the kind observation! Usually people look past the smaller details and focus on the less important things like critically thinking about systems that might affect your risk of injury in an inherently dangerous situation!
Der Begriff toprope könnte andeuten, dass das Seil oben nur durchgezogen und nicht !!!! verknotet wurde. Das müsste am Beginn des Videos stehen!!
und; wie kommt das Seil überhaupt nach oben ??
Sorry, I wish I could respond to this in German, but I unfortunately do not speak German. Because of this maybe some of the nuances of my response might be lost in translation.
For the sake of my video and the system I am demonstrating, "Top Rope" refers to ANY climbing system that uses an anchor that is established above the route that is being climbed. In my instance a top rope does not imply how the rope runs through that anchor. The good news is this system will work for the kind of top rope you are thinking about. The only difference would be the lack of redundancy if something were to happen to your climbing rope. This method can be applied to the same system that you would use to belay a climber on a rope that runs through an anchor above the climb.
There's a device called The Soloist.
How do you clean your anchors and get down?
For this particular crag I can easily access the top of the climb via an approach trail. When I'm done I just clean my gear and walk off the backside!
Your belay loop isn’t redundant… 😂
That's a great point that I would love to touch on later. The idea of redundancy and how the main point is to reduce the amount of single failure points rather than making "everything" redundant!
No, it isnt, but that may be the least problem with it.
"300$ in new gear is cheaper than a hospital visit"
Wouldn't that make you... AMERICAN??
Wow this music is terrible. Just make videos without music...the content is plenty good enough to speak for itself. Silence isn't a bad thing here, you are making videos for people who want to be alone on rocks.
Sure, I can understand your opinion on the music, but this is also something that I make for myself and I like to play with music/video editing. In the end it's just another video about a topic that has been talked about to death and I just want to have fun making a video while at the same time spreading some information for people to think on.
Can't all be winners ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Okay, that's fine. But man, if you made the music yourself, you have to realize how repetitive it is and consider that. It actually annoys me more knowing that you made the backing track (at least that's what I infer??) and didn't realize that a bunch of falling brass inserted every time you don't actually speak would be obnoxious. Usually people are just inserting whatever free music CZcams has to offer, which is fine I suppose since no one wants to pay royalties, but at least the person isn't really in control of the music they're selecting!@@HowToGetLost
@trombahonker sorry, I didn't mean to imply that I made the music, but rather I like to edit video to music. This was just a random hip hop track I decided to use.
I understand where you're coming from though. I'll use the feedback in the future and play with alternative ways of using music as a background.
Oh well, what would youtube be without someone complaining about something that was free to them but took the provider hours of work to put together? Excellent content regardless of my snobbery.@@HowToGetLost
i was gonna watch this until i saw the painted nails
I don't get it, what's the point?
Why did you even notice or care?
I promise you that his fist on your face would feel the same no matter what if that makes you feel better. 😆
Your High School emo days are long gone. Just let it go man. Side effects of a grown man wearing nail polish may include sudden loss of respect from others, decreased credibility, weird looks from people, and a general calling into question of your ability to make rational decisions. Is it really worth it?
It's 100% worth it. Thanks for the comment on my nails! Have a great day. 🙃
@@HowToGetLost Fair enough. I'll just rappel back under the bridge I came from to join the rest of the internet trolls.
@@BrandonWendt2 or better yet, let's just uplift each other and agree that regardless of what a talking head on the internet says, that we should do our own research and follow best practices!
The side effect of people commenting on other people's nail polish is boys not wearing them because of the other boys in school.
"You can't be a police officer because you're a girl. You can't wear nail polish because you're a boy!"
I knew that from school but am shocked by the comments from "grown ups" in the wild.
I'd love to live in a world where one had nail polish as he pleases, wear a red dress if they wanted to and nobody gave a shit about some girls short hair.
That wouldn't be too bad.
Cheers!
PS: great video anyway!! That's all that counts! Thanks!
This really bothers you for some reason
Yikes! Keep those microtraxions further away from each other. Put one on a quick draw to keep it away from the other one so there is much less chance of the devices being manipulated and failing during a fall