How I Lead Rope Solo | Gri Gri
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- čas přidán 17. 08. 2023
- In this video, I explain how I lead rope solo using a gri gri. I have accomplished close to 100 pitches with this system, both free and aid climbing. I have taken 1 unplanned fall where the gri gri caught me in the past, and many many practice falls.
Also check out this video by @AndreaCalligarisClimbing for a link to an amazing rope solo PDF:
• LEAD Rope Solo FREE Ma...
Check out climbingforlife’s video for a bomber anchor.
• How to Aid Climb witho... - Zábava
A word of caution here - Daniel is absolutely correct saying "Factor 2 falls are bad". So avoid them. Build a ground anchor (fix the end of the rope to a slung tree or bouders) and the possibility of a Factor 2 fall disappears. That is much, much safer. Great video Daniel!
Totally right. I use ground anchors whenever possible for that reason.
you explain what you do, why you do it, and then show if done incorrectly. amazing video, cool method, love to see it :)
Many, many moons ago, we did this with a prusik and a clove hitch.
God, I'm old.
I'd be interested to see a video or diagrams explaining the ways of the old gods.
Great video man. As a beginner climber (with no climber friends) it’s very helpful. PDF is great as well so thanks for the link!
I’m happy you found it helpful.
Very well done video! Your explanation of all the steps made perfect sense.
That was so cool! I've been wondering about this for a while and this was a fantastic explanation!
Thank you, like so much. Really hard to find a nice and complete, understadable explanation
Daniel, very well explained. Thanks for sharing your method. Climb safe :)
Y love how you free the last carabiner. Thanks
Happy to help.
So informative. Had no idea how it worked.
So you are belaying yourself and also acting as your own camera man, but why don’t you have cymbals attached to your ankles and a bass drum on your back so you can be a one man band as well?
Maybe in a future video 😉
Thanks, man! I love it.
That’s a good video. As a non-Climber it helps me understand what you’re doing. Enjoy.
thanks for the well presented video during rope solo climbing.
the settings on the belt are also perfectly presented. and yes, it is mandatory to use mailons for the anchorage, but with two protections or next in second bolt.There is a possibility that the mailon will be unscrewed when hitting a rock during climbing. the use of ordinary screw aluminum carabiners is even more dangerous. I saw with my own eyes an ordinary screw carabiner unscrewed when it was hit on the head by the screw while climbing. In the end, it remained open on the edge of the bolt!
Ohh I hope to never see that happen. I now use two bolts so everything is redundant.
20:09 had me shook! One bolt and yarding on that loop. That is super clever too though! Gotta trust the rope.
i think this is the first vid that explains the whole thing soo well if u ask me
DAMN THAT LAST HACK AT THE END IS SOO SMART TNX FR THE TIP
Thks for sharing this. There is a gap in the sports, and your video filled it with lots of valuable and usable info.
Happy to help. I’m a bit blown away that my video seems to be so highly regarded among all the how to LRS videos.
Really appreciated this video!
Get subscribed I’m doing an updated video this year. I have changed half of the system.
Thank you for sharing, this video is amazing, very clear and detailed. My approach is the same as yours, but learned more details. Happy climbing, safe climbing.🎉
I’m happy you were able to get something out of it.
Hi, great videos😎, I use exactly the same basic setup and change it a bit for the routes I go🤩.
keep up the good work😉😉
That big loop for the anchor trick is very smart!!! Such an easy change to simplify an annoying step :)
I’m sure it’s not original but it really makes cleaning easier and simpler.
game changer for me - fumbled that transition many times
Check out my LRS 5.12 video for an even better way to clean the anchor.
Nice video! The big-anchor-bight idea for the last bit of lowering is cool.
Check out my “can I LRS 5.12” video for a better way.
brilliant thank you great video
nice system bro! I enjoyed and it made sense ;-)
I use a steel biner for bolts 1 and 2, (clove hitch on 2nd) and like you've mentioned here, one is often cross loaded. I'd also recommend only doing routes you won't fall on, until you've got the system dialed.
Rope solo really has a way of making even a easy route feel extremely intense.
If you tie a clove hitch to the second bolt you have the factor 2 fall problem all over again. I think many people build a solid anchor on the ground (or tie to trees etc).
at 2nd bolt i used a quickdraw made of a steel biner and a 8mm maillon (locked with rope already inside) so that if the 1st bolt/anchor fails, it should jam against the maillon... so its a backup anchor but avoids the FF2 of a clove hitch on a steel biner before clipping the 3rd bolt... maybe not safe as the clove (slamming against maillon may damage rope somehow) but good enough
❤ oh what an amazing video!!!!! Thank you so much - its incredible!!!!!! Have awesome travels with your wife 🎉 greetings Jana
Thank you so much!
it's the clearer video I have seen for rope solo. It looks secure with minimum materiel in case you take care about what you are doing . I really like the idea of the nooses in the deads rope :)
Thank you. Since I posted this video I have ditched the chest harness and inverted the gri gri. I find it works much better.
A few concerns.
Almost nothing you said about fall factors was correct. When your waist was still below the first bolt, it would have been impossible to get as high as a factor 1 fall. That, plus numerous other comments, make it clear that you don't fully understand fall factors.
Learn to make a proper chest harness. You may even be able to do it with that same sling, depending on how big your chest is). The way you're wearing it now risks tremendous trauma to your neck in a fall. Get it around both shoulders, not your neck.
Skip the maillons. Yes, they're stronger than biners, but biners are more than strong enough for our purposes. Its literally what they're made for. And if you ever have to self-rescue, especially with even a minor injury, you'll have a much easier time escaping the belay using a biner than a maillon.
Use a ground anchor. Belay off trees, or place gear. Get a long sling and wrap it around a boulder. Anything but soloing up to the first bolt, and then relying on a SINGLE BOLT as your belay station.
The idea that purpose-built locking biners aren't strong enough for your risk profile (thus requiring the upgrade to a maillon) but that anchoring off a single bolt *is* within your risk profile is... inconsistent, to say the least.
I dont even disagree that there may be some routes out there where the best (only) option is to use the first bolt. But they are few and far between. While it might be a feasible back-up plan for those rare routes, it shouldn't be your default plan. They key to climbing safety is redundancy. Set a proper belay station.
A fall at the first bolt "my anchor" would be less than a factor 1 but I was generally speaking. A fall at the second bolt not clipped would have been less than a factor 2 fall generally speaking. let me know if I am way off and what a actual factor 1, 2 fall would look like.
Someone else in the comments suggested a thin and low strength bungie, I like that idea. Although I tried no chest harness today and couldn't tell much of a difference. So other than concerns of becoming inverted from a weird fall I may ditch the chest harness, which was never my reason for the chest harness.
My carabiners both on my belay loop and anchor have become side loaded while on lead. Combine that with cases of people breaking biners LRS I will stick to my mallons. I don't find them any harder to remove than a carabiner. look for an article on Tom Randle breaking a carabiner LRS.
I agree a ground anchor is safer. It almost entirely removes the concern of large factor falls. Although they are not always available, or in this case would eat up so much rope I would not have been able to rap down.
I trust bolts more than carabiners. They do not randomly change orientation like a carabiner while on lead. I have actually changed my system to incorporate the second bolt into the anchor from concerns raised in the comments.
@PitsToPeaks ok, this is a lot of talk about fall factors, without even once discussing the amount of rope out, or doing an actual calculation to determine an actual fall factor.
What you said in the video (from memory, so not a direct quote) was that because you were below the anchor (first bolt), it would be a factor 1 fall (said it as if that was a good thing, too. A factor 1 fall is still a pretty significant fall).
But let's unpack that. If your harness is 2 feet below the bolt, and the rope is fairly snug (let's say there's 6" of slack) and you fall, you would have a pretty insignificant fall, a FF of about 0.2, nowhere close to 1.
But if you've clipped the bolt, rested, and are now ready to keep moving, you might eyeball how far it is to the next solid rest, and feed out that much rope (let's say it's about 8 feet). But, just as you start to move, you pop. You fall about 6 feet on 8 feet of rope, giving you a FF of 0.75. The more rope you've pulled out, the closer to 1 your FF would be... but even if you had fed out 20 feet of rope, you'd still only be at about 0.9.
Now, once you're above that anchor, you open the door to a factor 2 fall, but only if you fall when the rope is snug to your harness. You know that moment when you try to move, but you don't have enough slack, and getting short-roped causes you to fall? That would be a factor 2 fall. But if you have any additional slack out, your fall would be less than FF2 (more than FF1, so still a very significant fall, but not a factor 2).
So, if you are above your anchor, with no additional gear in, you're actually better off with some extra slack in the system (provided it's still a clean fall; easier if you're already a few pitches up). For instance, if you fall from 10 feet above your anchor, and the rope is snug, you'd have a FF2 fall. But if you've got an extra 10 feet of rope out, your FF will be down to 1.5. Still pretty significant, but not nearly as harsh as a factor 2 fall.
But this can all be avoided by using a ground anchor. I agree that they aren't always possible... but this was not one of those scenarios. You've got cracks along the base, a fat root sticking out, boulders to tie off, and even trees. If you add webbing to your kit, you can equalize a few of those anchors, and not have to worry about whether you've left yourself enough rope.
So, yes, belaying off a single bolt may, on rare occasions, be necessary. But you've presented it here as your default option. You've significantly increased the risk on this route, when your footage shows that it really wasn't necessary.
Great video, Cristal clear and essential! I don't like too much the idea of the belay on a single bolt though, I would have probably thought about using a tree at the base as first anchor :)
I agree, but have found many times there isn't a natural anchor in a convenient place
@@colinhickey7284 I've taken to filling bags or Home Depot buckets with stones/soil/sand when I can.
I agree, great video but I try to never ever trust my life to any single piece of gear. Thanks for making this and awesome double camera view!
Did LRS on the grigri for 14 years before the Eddy came out, then switched overnight to the Eddy and have 5k+ trad pitches on it since. Would still use a grigri if aid soloing, but would never go back to the grigri for free climbing LRS.
What benefit does the government eddy have over the gri gri?
@@PitsToPeaks Rope threads the opposite of the grigri which is better for LRS and the locking mechanism is simpler.
I'm not into climbing, I don't know why youtube suggested this. But still I believe I understand your system. Good job!
Awsome I’m glad you were able to understand it.
Great video! I love the simplicity of the system. Thank you for sharing.
Glad you liked it!
Something i did for years, its safe and done correctly its nearly as good as a partner, not as dynamic but you cant have it all
Thank you very much for this information! Great to see the system in action as it also showcases the problems that need to be solved with TRS, which might not be obvious to people getting into it. I might have missunderstood, but your description of fall factors seemed inaccurate to me. I don't know if that is something you might want to look into and clarify. Thanks again!
I tried to put just enough information in for someone to start LRS. Their were more things I wanted to add but I had to draw the line somewhere. The information on fall factors should be accurate.
You're correct. He's talking about fall factors as if a fall is either factor 1 or factor 2, and no other factors exist. It's super weird.
I really like the MT at the back of the harness. In that way, the rope necessarily creates friction, which will activate the GG just like a real belayer. No knots necessary.
I’ve been tempted to do just that. But I don’t find feel as though the knots detract from the experience. Maybe at first but it’s so easy to release them.
Daniel Bell: "It's an easy route."
Me: "This is terrifying!"
Just have to temper a bd#1 can for the runout between the 1st and second bolt.
nice!
Thanks so much.
Nice, thank you.
Two suggestions:
1. I would, if possible, create an anchor close to the ground. secures you on the climb to the first clip and spares you the (clever!) move with the bfk, to release your rope.
2. Clear the micro traction before clearing your personal anchor - never stay handsfree on a belay device.
I agree with the ground anchor. That is almost always the better setup. I’m not sure I fully understand 2?
@@PitsToPeaks Sorry, I'm not a native english speaker. ;)
At the top anchor you released your lanyard before you cleared the microtraction out of the system. I would do it the other way round.
Great and good explaning how to do your system
Glad it was helpful!
@@PitsToPeaks i´m doing lots of internet search of how to to lead rope solo. Use wintertime to understand. Try to find out what´s in for me. Have you try grigri+ ?
Honestly, this was a good video and I do appreciate the effort made to produce it.
If you make more of these, please, please, consider your descriptions and commentary. "This" thing, take the weight off "this" onto "this", "that one is there" "this one over here", "this rope", "that rope", etc. Frustrating and or confusing at times, for your viewers.
It is a complex system and as you correctly said, has to be mistake free. You clearly know exactly what you are doing, and most viewers will have at least a sound idea regarding climbing concepts - but are watching because likely they want to start trying rope solo. A small extra effort (on top of your already good effort) to slow your speech, use fuller, accurate descriptions, would add immensely to an already good production.
Your viewers rarely have (from the video pov) the same clarity - and none of the familiarity - of what's in front of you, as you do. Your words really matter, and can add clarity and colour, or lead to confusion or misunderstanding.
But yes thank you for this video.
I completely agree. I want to make another how to rope solo video but I am still testing out alternative methods so I can speak about them from experience. I never expected this video to gain more than 1k views.
@@PitsToPeakscan I add, that I watched it over again, and that also helped. 👍
Thanks again for the content. Stay safe, have fun mate.
Very similar to my setup, the only difference is I use a cheap bungie loop around by neck, rather than the sling around your shoulder. I've tried both but found the sling was slightly uncomfortable and I worried about the pressure on the sling around my neck in case of a fall. With the bungie around my neck, it keeps the grigri oriented in a way that still feeds, and still catches,BUT if I fall the grigri will engage, and the bungie will break, leaving no wear on your neck. Great video and great filming!
I really like the idea of a bungie. I will try that. Typically when I high step and get bunched up the sling isn’t enough to hold the gri gri out of the way.
Thin Inner tube from a racing bike works real good as well.
I've been mainly rope solo for 10(?) years. Pretty much the only thing I use is a old grillon. You have to modify it to open but it's just a grigri without the lobe spring. It's harder to manage rope while you're climbing but it grabs with zero force. Only a few inches of rope can get pulled through it when you fall whereas my grigri can let out a lot. Enough that I pretty much only use my grillon.
Rope management is always tricky, I still end up running out of slack in the middle of moves sometimes.
Interesting. It looks like a gri gri without the handle.
@@PitsToPeaks At least with the first gen grigri and grillon I have the only difference is the grigri has a spring that keeps the lobe open, the grillon just flops around. I also like that I can give it to someone who isn't super experienced belaying and be comfortable since I know it will grab quick even if the person is completely hands off and looking somewhere else. You generally have to hold it open to feed out slack because there's nothing holding the lobe from closing.
Really interesting video. I hope I will never use it though 😅😅
Great, clear explanation -- thanks! BTW, what crag are you at in video? Terrain/landscape looks like Northeast? Certainly not the Gunks, in any case, where we are.
Currahee Mtn in north Georgia.
That crag looks fun, where is this filmed? Thanks for the video.
Currahee Mtn Georgia.
To add to your setup I would say put the rope in a small rope bag (caving bag) with the micro on the chest and then it keep the rope organised and less short roping your self.
That’s how I started rope soloing, now I only do that on terrain that might snag the rope.
Great video, Danny! Thanks so much for putting this up.
Quick question: Would a ground anchor mitigate the need for all the shenanigans at the first bolt (having to use a maillon on the way up, having to go in in direct to clean it on the way down, and the risk of a factor II fall)?
Also, are you climbing at the Bald here? I'm having a hard time identifying the crag!
I typically do some kind of an anchor at the ground and then when I get to the first bolt or gear placement I tension that piece against the anchor. Danny mentioned this as he was doing it. But I suspect that since this route was well within his abilities he didn’t see the need.
When using a single piece to connect the rope to a bolt a Mallon is preferred. The issue with a carabiner is they are much easier to cross load. Especially when the rope is being picked up and dropped back down several times while climbing. I finally switched to a Mallon after I found my carabiner cross loaded and jammed in a weird way between the bolt and hanger. But a ground anchor would make cleaning much easier. Although my method shown is very quick and easy. When I’m not making a video I can be set up in 5 minutes or less. I’m climbing Deprived child at Currahee Mtn. I hope this helps.
@@michaelsmisadventures3321 correct. I adjust my system to each climb. I didn’t want to get into all the different ways I LRS in this video because it would quickly grow to be more than a hour long.
@@PitsToPeaks Thanks so much for the quick and helpful reply!
Thanks! @@michaelsmisadventures3321
thanks - i climb grigri solo as well and you can learn always sometihng - watch my grigri solo climb in the ice as well
Hi Daniel, great video! Love the use of slip knots.
Something to consider for all intending to use this set up:
Micro Traxions are not designed for dynamic loads and are likely to core-shot the rope if the GriGri doesn’t engage.
That being said, taking the weight of the dead rope is useful if not important.
Using a toothless progress capture device like the Camp Lift is imo better suited for this purpose. I believe a core-shot rope, which might impact the efficacy of the next stopper knot, Is less likely without teeth.
Remember, although the devices should catch a fall, it’s the knots which will save your life.
Unless I miss understand you I disagree with the idea that the micros teeth will core shot the rope during a fall. The micro only holds the weight of the dead rope. At no point does the micro catch or hold the weight of the climber.
Look at the direction the rope feeds through the trax. Teeth are never weighted.
Nice video, I was wondering, what kind of camera setup do you use while climbing ?
For the pov I’m using a insta360 go 3. For the third person perspective I am using a insta360 x2 on a selfie stick attached to a Back bar waist strap. The setup I’m using for the 360 camera is limiting for free climbing but does get some wild shots.
This is great Daniel 👌 Personally i use a Soloist made by Rock Exotica & it's totally more effective than a Grigri 👍 For the support of the device i use a gear harness ! The best part of solo rope climbing for myself is the whole process of application 👌 Your advice is solid 👌 Climb safe 👍
Nice video, finally someone who explains it end-to-end.
What did you mean by backing up at the second bolt? You skipped that since you probably felt comfortable enough on this route but what would you have done otherwise?
The entire system is dependent on the first bolt. If the first bolt fails during a fall then the entire system fails. Hence the idea of using the second bolt as a backup.
@@cmiller4567 Yes, I understand that. My question is, what is a good way to use the second bolt as a backup? Just make sure the rope is tight between the first and second bolt and tie a knot? What is a common approach here?
You would likely just use another mallion and a clove hitch
In the manual linked in the other CZcamsrs bio he suggest using a 8mm Mallon on the second bolt. That’s strong enough to hold a fall while being small enough that a knot cannot pass through. Like others have said you can clove hitch to the second bolt. Or alternatively you can tie a alpine butterfly slightly below the second bolt. The alpine is better practice because it eliminates the concern of a factor 2 before clipping the third bolt. The ideal system would be using a ground anchor eliminating the concern of a factor 2 fall entirely.
Yea that pdf guide was good. I was wrong with my previous reply. You can add a clove hitch, but this is what they are calling a ‘re-belay’, which introduces another opportunity for a factor 2 fall. Instead your backup anchor can be a free knot below your backup bolt that doesn’t fit through the maillon. This allows you to back up your anchor without losing all of the additional rope stretch/ fall absorption
With the grigri attached to your shoulder sling, is the brake rope not being essentially positioned in the elevated/lowering position (ie the non braking position)? The climbing side of the grigri will be pulled upwards in the event of a fall, and then it will likely flip around, but the brake rope being positioned in that way seems like it might cause a high frequency of failures for the cam engagement.
I doubt it has any meaningful effect on likeliness of the gri gri catching. I’ve had one fall on this setup and it worked as it should. Recently I stopped using the shoulder sling and haven’t noticed any negative effects. The biggest scare I’ve had is grabbing the wrong strand while trying to take. Soon as you move weight from the gri gri to your hands by holding the wrong strand it makes the gri gri less likely to lock down.
Good video but that's not how fall factors work. If you're below your pro then your fall factor is essentially zero (assuming you have minimal slack out). If you're above your pro, then your fall factor will only get as high as 1 if you fall all the way down to the start of the pitch. The only way you get fall factors above 1 is if you fall past the start of the pitch.
I exaggerated a bit and spoke in generality’s. I will make sure to be more accurate in future videos.
No, he's mostly right about the fall factors. It's different to normal sport climbing since your anchor is at the first bolt instead of your belayer at the ground. If you fall at the bolt, the length you fall and the length of rope that catches you is the same, hence fall factor of 1. If you fall above the bolt, the length of the fall is longer than the length of rope that catches you, giving a fall factor between 1 and 2.
@@TheJon567 Oh shoot! You're right. Totally depends on where you are relative to your anchor. Thanks for pointing that out.
So are you only secured to the first bolt with a figure 8 right?
What if that blew, I would do an alpine into the second just in case.
Through the pdf listed in the description I found a way to incorporate the second bolt into the anchor. Swap the carabiner for a Mallon on the rope side of the quick draw and tie an alpine butterfly slightly below the Mallon. That way the rope can still stretch but will not let the knot pass through. It’s not equalized but it is redundant.
If you were to fall onto the first slipknot due to the Grigri not locking, would that cause all the slipknots above to come undone, increasing the fall a bit?
The slipknots are on the slack side of the rope. They won't get loaded if the grigri fails and jams on the first.
There are no slip knots above.
That's not how fall factors work, under the Bolt = 1 and above the bolt =2. You need to divide your falling height by the total rope length in the system and that would give you maybe a factor 0.2 in this position, factor 1 at exactly bolt height and a factor 2 only if your rope is fully stretched above the bolt.
I think he's talking about the worst case scenario for a fall at the second bolt, but you're right. There'd be one bolt distance of rope in the system, and he'd fall two bolt distances. Every bolt after that gets better and better. Though falling at the second bolt without clipping would be bad anyway, unless the first bolt (where the rope is attached) is high enough that the fall height + slack + stretch + half body height would still not have you hit the ground.
I may have exaggerated a bit. But I was under the understanding that a fall at the second bolt without clipping would be a factor 2 fall. Let me know if that is incorrect.
@@PitsToPeaks fall factor is determined by how far you fall before the rope starts to stretch divided by the amount of rope between you and the fixed point taking the load. Now in climbing this gets a little muddy with slipping ropes, but it's pretty hard to get a fall factor of 2 and up unless you're connected to a via Ferrata like cable or something. You're right though, if the first bolt is high enough not to deck, and you're going straight up, falling between bolt one and two would result in you falling the distance between bolt 1 and 2, + the length of rope between you and bolt 1 (probably around the same distance or slightly more in case of slack), so a fall factor of just under 2. The only way to get a true f2 fall is by having the rope tight between you and the bolt below you, or having an attachment point that moves (like a chain or those rails that require an absorber to use). I like your system by the way!
what equipment did you use to take the video of you climbing?
Insta360 go 3 on my helmet. And a Insta360 x2 on a selfie stick supported on a Insta360 waist strap. I spun the strap around my waist to my left to try and get a profile perspective. I wouldn’t recommend the waist strap for any actual hard climbing. It severely limits motion.
A few questions please:
At 12:55 when you mention backing up the 2nd bolt, and that you typically don't... are you referring to simply clipping the draw, as opposed to using a clove hitch?
Is your micro traction clipped to your belay loop? Humour me - if the grigri sees the force of a fall, and the micro sees none of that, could you put the micro on your leg loop? This would move it away (for clarity, similar to why you modified the grigri to sling it higher). You could still reach it to drop the slip knots? If grigri slips/fails it is sub-optimal, and will load the leg loop instead, but will ultimately jam the grigri as required to save the situation? Also, it might hinder the climbing somewhat. Or, hang the micro on a small (8 inch) extender?
Trying to see how to avoid modifying the grigri...
Last one - a mallion as I know it is a steel oval with screw closure. How is this superior to a screwgate biner? Just that it is steel? Or is it the oval profile and x-load risk? Would you use an oval screwgate biner, if you had one?
Thanks for you help or advice. 🙂
1. I’m at the time I didn’t normally incorporate the second bolt into the anchor. Now I use a quick link on the second bolt and tie an alpine butterfly just below it. Hownot2 has a short on it.
2. You can put the micro anywhere you want.
3. Skip the gri gri modification and just attached it with a wteel quick link to the belay loop and inverted. That is what I do now and it works great.
4. I swear by a Mallon/quick link/ rapid. Good luck finding a situation where you can get it to fail below what it is rated for. Hownot2 has tried to cross load them in a lab and couldn’t. I have taken 8ish falls on my setup and the quick link has always worked. If you want to use a carabiner get one that has a anticrossload feature.
5. Look up Tom Randle rope solo fall. He snapped a carabiner during a LRS fall.
Thank you for taking the time to write all that. Valuable information for me. Gracias.
Have you ever taken a whipper on your system? Curious how it handles it.
I’ve taken 7 whips I believe. One in my “glass menagerie in a day” video. 4ish in my “can I LRS 5.12” video. One in my “the womb” video. And I took a 20’ whip 2 weeks ago aid climbing. That last one will be in a future video if there is enough content there to post. In the “ can I LRS 5.12” video I talk about some of the issues with a gri gri and how it can slip all the way to a backup knot. Every time excluding “the womb” video it has caught with a comfortable catch.
Another thing. If you fall half way up and get injured, how long will you last hanging waiting for help. Go bouldering instead ;)
I keep a garmin in reach on me while rope soloing and let people know where I will be. But if I were to get hurt I can always lower myself to the ground.
minute 4:24 a millipede gets knocked down by the flaking of the rope!!!!
Woah - good eye!
Would a Petzl Microcender work well in place of the Microtraxion?
I can’t imagine any reason it wouldn’t.
@@PitsToPeaks Cheers thanks. I've never actually used one, but i've got one lying around and it seemed like it'd do the same thing
What would you do at the top if there were just two rings?
Go in direct with my pas and pass the non anchor end through the rings and rappel using the gri gri to clean as per the rest of the video.
What gear are you using for recording? :)
I have a insta go3 for the intro, outro and on my helmet with the easy clip. I’m using a Insta360 x2 on a back bar waist strap to get the side view.
How do you modify the grigri? Could we get a close up of what changes?
I want to do a updated video on LRS I’ve already adjusted some things and I want to talk in more detail about some aspects. I will make sure to get a close up of the gri gri. I have no idea when that video will happen. But I will say I have ditched the sling and have no need for the modification anymore. I just put the gri gri on upside down and that’s about it.
@@PitsToPeaks can't wait to see it!
did you leve two carabiners att the topp ??
I hiked back around the top when I left and collected them.
What setup did you use off the top bolts? Like knots etc.
Like top rope solo?
After you lead the climb you rapped down the rope and when you got to your anchor you removed the 8 from the anchor and attached to your belay loop. Then you continued rapping down and the rope was sliding through the top anchors. But if it wasn't tied at the top how were you able to first rap down one line? Did you have a knot blocking one side of the two bolts? @@PitsToPeaks
The bottom anchor is holding the rope still until he gets there. Then he transfers the knot to his harness and the rope slips through as he lowers himself
@@owen9535 I’m a dummy.🤦🏻😆 Thanks bro.🙏
how do you do this for multi pitch ?
what is the point in the micro traxion? I've never lead rope soloed, so I was just wondering
If I let the full weight of the dead and of the rope hang from just the gri gri it will lock up and not auto feed. A gri gri relies on friction to engage and lock up. So I use the micro traction to hold 90% of the weight off the gri gri. The gri gri can handle the other 10% without locking up. You can alternative methods like knots tied to the belay loops every 10’ but most people use a micro traction.
pretty sure its a bit safer for single pitch solo to anchor to the ground to something rather than first bolt
It is. When the first bolt passes my bomber eye inspection I deem it safe enough for myself. I wouldn’t recommend that for anyone else. Their are so many methods available that it really boils down to what the individual likes. Although I acknowledge that my method is not the safest. And I do adjust depending on each route.
@@PitsToPeaks If you wouldn't recommend it for anyone else, why put it on youtube? It would be worth emphasizing this in the video, beyond "I do not typically back up on this bolt. A lot of people do, that way things are redundant. I feel plenty safe enough with just the one bolt as an anchor, and I'll go with that." What you said in the video could be misinterpreted as a recommendation. You do a great job explaining your system, and it's simplicity is appealing, but I worry that some viewers might not fully grasp the risk involved with relying on 1 bolt and having a factor 2 fall potential before the 2nd bolt. And of course being self reliant for rescue if there is an accident.
Your documentation skills make me want to watch your other videos! I just worry that the risk assessment is understated for less experienced climbers that may be viewing. They might be tempted to imitate your techniques without the judgement, ability or experience to back it up.
That's great, but among the (few) videos about rope solo I've seen, I'm yet to see one who trust their own system enough to show a fall
I used the soloist for many climbs and got sick and tired of wondering if I fell, would I hit the ground and die. So I got to the top of the cliff, made sure my gear below me was really bomber, and let go. I guess you know that I survived. My best advice for any climbers is to get a partner and forget roped soloing. Way,way too dangerous. Besides I'm forgetful !
Very easy to forget something critical.
I will get a fall on video next time I’m out rope soling. May be a little while. Otherwise I do have a video where I fell on my system while rope soling glass menagerie on my channel. It’s only me talking about the fall right after while hanging on the rope.
What maillon do you use with your grigri?
Either a 8mm or 10 depending on whichever I find in my bag first.
Maybe I missed something, but how are you ensuring that the brake strand of the gri gri will always be under tension during a fall?
That’s the thing. You can’t ensure the gri gri will have tension and lock up. That’s why I use the slip knots. Although the MT under the gri gri does cause the rope to pull around the rounded edge adding hopefully enough friction to make the gri gri lock.
@@PitsToPeaks Oh ok. I thought maybe that was the case. Thanks for the clarification. Then I suppose this method is much too "adventurous" for me at least. Although to be honest I would have already been dissuaded by the large possible fall factors anyway.
Relying on 1 bolt for your anchor? Hmmm...
It’s not ideal. I rarely rely on a single bolt. I have found a way to use the second bolt and incorporate it into the anchor.
What pieces of equipment are you referencing?
A petzl GRI GRI, Petzl micro traction, and two mallons or quick links.
@@PitsToPeaks Thank you.
Do you have a video of solo multi pitch?
My hardest fall, the womb from a few weeks ago.
So you had a fall!!? Sorry to hear that. Best wishes on recovery 💪🏼👌🏼
and how to pick carabiners from the top?
I only placed them at the top as an example of a route that uses mussy hooks. Normally I go in direct with my pas. Pass the free end of the rope through the anchor and reattach the gri gri to the free side to rappel.
good!
I can use kong duck?
I use mine all the time on aid. Not sure how it would benefit a LRS though?
I haven't used it yet@@PitsToPeaks
The only minus is that he is using only one bolt as a main point of his system. Better always to have 2 points, but it was pretty safe, I think. Hope nothing will ever happen to anyone who is belaying him self ;) good luck
I’m hoping people will do as I say and not as I do.
Thanks for the video.
Anchor on only one bolt seems very dangerous. Your whole system is about redundancy, why not apply the same concept to one of the most critical point of the system ? It would be very easy to atleast anchor to a bomber tree or rock no ?
Check out my “can I LRS 5.12” video. I show how to make the anchor redundant.
Where is this
Deprived child at currahee Mtn
Love the vid! Well explained! I notice you put the Grigri in the "normal" orientation. Try to put it "upside down" (clipped 180 degrees on the belay loop) and let us know how it went! Why the longer Fig8 knot on the first bolt? Why not a normal length? Also some people have commented that it is not a great idea to rely on a single bolt and that there are other great ways to support the live rope weight.
I will try the gri gri 180. The longer figure 8 makes it much easier to move the weight off of the Mallon and onto the PAS in my experience, while not having much of a noticeable affect on the rest of the system. I have been meaning to back up using the second bolt, the comments have motivated me to work on that aspect of the system. I have actually adjusted my way of supporting the live rope since the video. I seem to adjust the system almost every time I go out.
What wall was this on?
Slab wall at currahee Mtn. Deprived child 5.6
@@PitsToPeaks Very sick! Never been, but I live somewhat nearby and climb the Glass a lot. I think that's how I found your videos. Thanks for sharing!
I prefer a C.A.M.P. Goblin over the petzl micro traction device, the Micro destroys your rope, and the Goblin is more geared towards this method.
I will check that out. I love buying more gear!
Ooh, looks cool but complicated...Isn't it easier to train a horse (or large dog) to act as belayer? ;-)
Best I got is a 11lb cat. I’m not sure he’s interested.
It’s going to get you killed. That first bolt you use as anchor is a single point of failure. It’s not on common bolts fails.
I now incorporate the second bolt into the anchor system.
Great. Please use 2 bols.
Looking at those to incorporate the second bolt into the anchor.
Anyone ever try a Silent Partner?
I would love to. But for the price I will stick with my gri gri.
Is this curahee mnt cause it sure looks like it
Yes it is. Deprived child.
That second bolt looks really far from the first, it's not just a factor 2 fall, it's probably a ground fall. Did you skip any?
If you were to fall at the second bolt hitting the ground is very likely. I typically throw a cam in between the 1st and 2nd bolt.
Why is it still "Lead" climbing if your alone and not leading anyone?
A very good question.
that's just dangerous. The good think about climbing is the social part. at least be in 2 if anything happens...
Wtf are you talking about? I climb to get some time to myself and find peace. The best part about climbing is pushing yourself and taking on a challenge. You’re just insecure lmao
3:46 Americans will use everything but the metric system.
7:36 "Right here.." where is that exactly??
The micro is on the leg loop the main belay loop attaches to.
Мы делаем первую станцию на земле и нет риска падения на первую точку с фактором 2...
That’s what I normally do as well.