The plans are no longer available for free. To learn how you can get a set of drawings to build your own teardrop, click this link: czcams.com/video/4mv3ZzRZJCM/video.html www.paypal.com/paypalme2/OregonBatman97741/15
i really like your video. i built my teardrop back in 2015 and I didn't install any lighting. I'm not good (at all) with electrical bu Ithink I have to add a porch light and one for my galley.. thanks for your information
That mahogany is going to look so much better than a plastic faceplate, it's why I made mine out of cedar. Love the simple wiring job, super clean. Great job.
I have watched many of these ( how to's, ) with camper trailer builds etc, but your videos are above and beyond most of the others, they are very helpful. So easy to watch, so simlpe to follow, and I cannot thank you enough, for this one particularly, it was an area that was duanting me, - but not any more, I don't subscribe much, but I just had to with your excellent and informative channel, - Thank you very much.
Hola Amigo considero que sus trabajos son por lejos los mejores que he visto, gracias por entregar sus conocimientos, me estoy fabricando una teardrop para 4 inspirado en sus videos, infinitas gracias.
Good video again Al! It is always interesting to compare how each of us do those installations! Again, there are not that much videos about the subject on CZcams, I am glad you did those. In my case, I glued the styrofoam to the inner skin then I grooved it with a heat cutting tool attached to my Weller soldering gun to provide passage for the wires, then I glued the outer skin to the styrofoam.
Thanks Raynald! I always appreciate the kind comments and the great feedback! I didn't think about using the heat wire for the foam, great advice! I've seen it done and simply forgot about that technique. I didn't glue the foam to the skin, left it floating. Fits pretty tight so not worried about anything moving around. I definitely would glue it to inner and outer skin if the pieces were large cuts. Working on outer skin today, need to get that on so I can move to the filon. Saving the hatch for last... Thanks again sir!
On those switches. 280zone has a good point. The light would drive me crazy at night. Plus, a power drain would always be present when the battery is connected. I have installed lights like these in customer's vehicles over the years and some people did not like them. (I was an auto electrical specialist for 47 years) So, on many of them, I was able to redirect the ring light feed to the output feed to the powered accessory and that put the ring light out. It would illuminate when the switch was on as we used the output power to do the job. (Most of the one I installed were LED dots to illuminate the switch) but the idea was the same. Not knowing the switch wiring on yours I do not know if this can be done but I certainly would look into it or return for the proper switch. Just a thought.
Thanks Bob! I agree... the blue lights on all the time would drive me nuts! I emailed the seller of the switches and let them know about the lights and they sent me two new ones that worked correctly! Now installed and works like they should... much better!! From what I can see, the switches are a sealed unit, don't think it can be taken apart to redirect feed without destroying them. Not sure what I will use them for other than testing purposes. Don't like the idea of being on all the time and possibly draining a battery or two! Thanks for the comment.
@@OregonBatman Good move. After following you for all this time I was sure that it would be a problem. As to redirecting the feed, sometimes I was able to take the wire that hangs from the back of the switch and instead of a direct connection to power I would connect that to the wire that is used ot output power to the accessory. If I hade the wiring diagram available I would know. If the switch was in my hands I could experiment and see what the results are. Either way I am glad you did the right thing. Enjoying this one because I wanted to build a teardrop but the wife would not be happing in one.. She likes to stand up.
Much happier with the new switches for sure! I thought about having a main switch for the power, but that seemed like it would have defeated the purpose, so glad the seller made things right! Have to agree with the wife... after building my first teardrop, I wasn't to keen on laying down to get dressed so I built the 6x12. That thing is awesome! Lots of room to move around in. Building this teardrop mainly for showing how it's done. I'll take a road trip in it once it's finished, then put it up for sale... we'll see if I have any takers. I will be selling the 6x12 also in the near future to help fund the next project. Thanks for following along Bob!!
Yeah, I bought two LED lights for my cars cabin, very small. They would work and then stop working and I would reseat them and work for a little while. I started having a vampire power issue where the battery was dying after less then a week. It seems that the LED lights have a circuit in them not just an LED and even though no light was on it would consume energy, even a small LED can kill a battery.
@@DesignBuildFixReview You are so right. There is a monitoring circuit that consumes power. I made quite a bit of money, over the years, working on customer's vehicles locate their parasitic drains caused when they had installed, what they thought was not going to be an issue.
I think you might want to return those two switches. That constant blue LED light is going to be pretty bright in the trailer at night and also be constant on they are draining battery power all the time.
Thanks 280zone! I emailed the seller about the switches, and they sent me two new ones! I agree... those blue lights would have lit up the whole cabin!
@@OregonBatman Glad to hear, I was going to mention the same. Also it may not have occurred to you that you don't need light up switches as the interior lights themselves come on when you press the button :)
True that Dave! The only touch switches I searched for had the LED's... so I went with it. I couldn't find them without (didn't search long though! LOL!) I'll have plenty of light for sure!
I have watch your program on building your trailer from start to end . I am starting to watch it again and the more I watch it the more confidence I am that I can put one together. I would like to get a hold of the plans you are offering if you can send them to me or send me a link I would love to download those plans and begin putting my trailer together. I thank you for your time .I thank you for all your information you have put out there it has been very useful thank you. And not to mention inspiring. Love your work.
Hi Rafael... this is definitely something you can do, and be proud of it: I've included the link below for you if you are interested in the plans... www.paypal.me/OregonBatman97741/15
Hi M Dent! Here is the link for those lights: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPQ3B9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thanks for watching!
Great job on the wiring Al. I always say keep it simple and keep it neat. You have done both. What type of insulation are you looking at for the top? Have a Great week. L.L.A.P Mike
Excellent build. Quick question, what gauged wire was used(14 or 16) and cool idea using the bus bar. What is the exact purpose for bus bar with only a few lights that are on each circuit? IE Do you have all pos and negative to the bar and the additional leads for that circuit vs no bus bar and wired direct to the switch? Just making sure I am not missing anything.
Thank you Allen! I used 12 and 14 gauge wire throughout, and I used the bus bars to distribute the power I needed for all the switches and fan. Could easily have used a fuse box to do the same thing, but would have been a tight fit.
Thanks for the great video. I had no idea how to even begin with electrical, now I feel I have a good grasp on it. I bought the lights and switches you have, but have a couple questions. Do you have a link for the grommets you insert into the 1/2” holes to protect the wires? Also, the lights say to use a 56mm hole saw, but you used a 2 3/8” hole saw I believe. Do you recommend the hole saw you used and are they holding well after getting some use? Thanks again for the great series, you are fun to learn from!
Hi! Thanks for checking out the video, and glad it could help you out some! I purchased the gromets at an ACE hardware store in the 12 volt section where they sell the wiring and all the 12 volt connectors... you can probably find those at almost any automotive parts stores. I would probably recommend a 2-1/8" hole saw for the lights... mine are holding up very well with what I used, but better to make the hole a bit smaller. You can always sand it to make it bigger, but once it's too big then you have to find a way to make it smaller (a little more challenging). Thanks again for stopping by and checking out the build! al
I believe I used 12 or 10 AWG wire. Pretty close to battery and not runnning a lot of power (lights and fan). Separate wiring to refrigerator. You will do okay with 12 AWG wire
@@OregonBatman I went 10 AWG from the battery to the bus bars. 12 AWG for the fan, and for a dome light on the hatch, 14 AWG. I will keep you posted. Thanks a bunch Mr Bates!
Thanks David for following along!! Thanks for the comment! Here is the link for those lights: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPQ3B9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I thought about installing one in the side at the rear on the drivers side... Run it through and connect to a power strip. It'll be hidden just behind the cooler. I always carry a 25' power cord with me to use at campsites. I might end up installing one on this build just to have it. That'll be easy! Thanks Steve!
Sorry Richard! Not sure why the links aren't working... I've included the link below for you if you are interested... www.paypal.me/OregonBatman97741/15 If that doesn't work, email me: batman97741@gmail.com
The plans are no longer available for free. To learn how you can get a set of drawings to build your own teardrop, click this link: czcams.com/video/4mv3ZzRZJCM/video.html
www.paypal.com/paypalme2/OregonBatman97741/15
Thanks
very nice explanation, imposible be more clear 👌🤜🤛
Thank you very much! Glad you stopped by!
Looking good! The electrical was one of my favorite parts of my build.
Thank you sir... very satisfying when everything works as it should!
i really like your video. i built my teardrop back in 2015 and I didn't install any lighting. I'm not good (at all) with electrical bu Ithink I have to add a porch light and one for my galley.. thanks for your information
I love the Bob Villa style 😁 very teachable
Thank you Jessica! Thank you for stopping by!
I really like your detailed explanation and demonstration. It's great to see your expertise. I am a fan!!
Awesome! I appreciate you following along!
Great tutorial! I like the Perko Deck Connector idea.
Thank you!
I'm so glad you could shed some light on how to do this....many thanks!
Glad it can help! Thanks Aussie!
Thanks for the video. Coming right along - looks good!
That mahogany is going to look so much better than a plastic faceplate, it's why I made mine out of cedar. Love the simple wiring job, super clean. Great job.
Looks wayyyyyyyyy better than plastic! Can't go wrong with Cedar, stuff looks and smells great!
I have watched many of these ( how to's, ) with camper trailer builds etc, but your videos are above and beyond most of the others, they are very helpful.
So easy to watch, so simlpe to follow, and I cannot thank you enough, for this one particularly, it was an area that was duanting me, - but not any more, I don't subscribe much, but I just had to with your excellent and informative channel, - Thank you very much.
Thanks Brad! Appreciate the wonderful comments and glad to know I might have helped a little! Thanks again!
Thank you, really like your videos.
Great video.... very understandable for a beginner.... thanks
Very impressive video thank you for sharing your knowledge.. i hope i can build mine someday..
Thank you! You can absolutely do this!
You were shooting from overhead cutting the holes for the lights and these clouds of dust flying up made me laugh !
I tell myself, I need to vacuum before I do stuff like that.... but, I get in a rush! LOL!
I'm better at AC then DC , thank this video will help alot
Awesome! Thanks lowlife74!
I like those lights super nice
Thank ya! They do... brighten it up a bit! LOL!!
Looking Good, I sure appreciate your time and video
Thanks Robin!!
you could try swapping the positive in and out wires to see if the lights will work correctly?
Very Cool !
Pretty slick. Well done.
Thank you Papa! Thanks for sticking around! :)
Well done with your presentation Al. Waiting in anticipation for the next one!
Thank you Richard!
Hola Amigo considero que sus trabajos son por lejos los mejores que he visto, gracias por entregar sus conocimientos, me estoy fabricando una teardrop para 4 inspirado en sus videos, infinitas gracias.
Gracias juan Agradezco el comentario y te deseo lo mejor en tu construcción, ¡te divertirás mucho!
Hablas español?
Good video again Al! It is always interesting to compare how each of us do those installations! Again, there are not that much videos about the subject on CZcams, I am glad you did those.
In my case, I glued the styrofoam to the inner skin then I grooved it with a heat cutting tool attached to my Weller soldering gun to provide passage for the wires, then I glued the outer skin to the styrofoam.
Thanks Raynald! I always appreciate the kind comments and the great feedback! I didn't think about using the heat wire for the foam, great advice! I've seen it done and simply forgot about that technique. I didn't glue the foam to the skin, left it floating. Fits pretty tight so not worried about anything moving around. I definitely would glue it to inner and outer skin if the pieces were large cuts. Working on outer skin today, need to get that on so I can move to the filon. Saving the hatch for last... Thanks again sir!
As usual...Very good instructions. I was waiting these video.
Thank you Iago!
On those switches. 280zone has a good point. The light would drive me crazy at night. Plus, a power drain would always be present when the battery is connected. I have installed lights like these in customer's vehicles over the years and some people did not like them. (I was an auto electrical specialist for 47 years) So, on many of them, I was able to redirect the ring light feed to the output feed to the powered accessory and that put the ring light out. It would illuminate when the switch was on as we used the output power to do the job. (Most of the one I installed were LED dots to illuminate the switch) but the idea was the same. Not knowing the switch wiring on yours I do not know if this can be done but I certainly would look into it or return for the proper switch. Just a thought.
Thanks Bob! I agree... the blue lights on all the time would drive me nuts! I emailed the seller of the switches and let them know about the lights and they sent me two new ones that worked correctly! Now installed and works like they should... much better!! From what I can see, the switches are a sealed unit, don't think it can be taken apart to redirect feed without destroying them. Not sure what I will use them for other than testing purposes. Don't like the idea of being on all the time and possibly draining a battery or two! Thanks for the comment.
@@OregonBatman Good move. After following you for all this time I was sure that it would be a problem. As to redirecting the feed, sometimes I was able to take the wire that hangs from the back of the switch and instead of a direct connection to power I would connect that to the wire that is used ot output power to the accessory. If I hade the wiring diagram available I would know. If the switch was in my hands I could experiment and see what the results are. Either way I am glad you did the right thing. Enjoying this one because I wanted to build a teardrop but the wife would not be happing in one.. She likes to stand up.
Much happier with the new switches for sure! I thought about having a main switch for the power, but that seemed like it would have defeated the purpose, so glad the seller made things right! Have to agree with the wife... after building my first teardrop, I wasn't to keen on laying down to get dressed so I built the 6x12. That thing is awesome! Lots of room to move around in. Building this teardrop mainly for showing how it's done. I'll take a road trip in it once it's finished, then put it up for sale... we'll see if I have any takers. I will be selling the 6x12 also in the near future to help fund the next project. Thanks for following along Bob!!
Yeah, I bought two LED lights for my cars cabin, very small. They would work and then stop working and I would reseat them and work for a little while. I started having a vampire power issue where the battery was dying after less then a week. It seems that the LED lights have a circuit in them not just an LED and even though no light was on it would consume energy, even a small LED can kill a battery.
@@DesignBuildFixReview You are so right. There is a monitoring circuit that consumes power. I made quite a bit of money, over the years, working on customer's vehicles locate their parasitic drains caused when they had installed, what they thought was not going to be an issue.
When you're talking to the camera, you're talking to us. When you repeat yourself, you're just talking to us... twice, lol
LOL!! Guess some people just need to hear it twice!....... LOL!! Guess some people just need to hear it twice! :)
I think you might want to return those two switches. That constant blue LED light is going to be pretty bright in the trailer at night and also be constant on they are draining battery power all the time.
Thanks 280zone! I emailed the seller about the switches, and they sent me two new ones! I agree... those blue lights would have lit up the whole cabin!
@@OregonBatman Glad to hear, I was going to mention the same. Also it may not have occurred to you that you don't need light up switches as the interior lights themselves come on when you press the button :)
True that Dave! The only touch switches I searched for had the LED's... so I went with it. I couldn't find them without (didn't search long though! LOL!) I'll have plenty of light for sure!
use a old schools cooler for a battery box it look cool
I have watch your program on building your trailer from start to end . I am starting to watch it again and the more I watch it the more confidence I am that I can put one together. I would like to get a hold of the plans you are offering if you can send them to me or send me a link I would love to download those plans and begin putting my trailer together. I thank you for your time .I thank you for all your information you have put out there it has been very useful thank you. And not to mention inspiring. Love your work.
Hi Rafael... this is definitely something you can do, and be proud of it:
I've included the link below for you if you are interested in the plans...
www.paypal.me/OregonBatman97741/15
Hi Batman, I found you on TV-Utube. I like your tear drop and your videos on the tear drop. Question what size are your walls?
Thx for your awesome insights in Teardrop trailers. Would you be able to include a link for the LED light pucks from Amazon. Thx
Hi M Dent! Here is the link for those lights: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPQ3B9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for watching!
Great job on the wiring Al.
I always say keep it simple and keep it neat. You have done both.
What type of insulation are you looking at for the top?
Have a Great week.
L.L.A.P
Mike
Thanks Mike! I used the 1-1/2" styrofoam for insulation... all sealed up now. Worked great.
Excellent build.
Quick question, what gauged wire was used(14 or 16) and cool idea using the bus bar.
What is the exact purpose for bus bar with only a few lights that are on each circuit?
IE Do you have all pos and negative to the bar and the additional leads for that circuit vs no bus bar and wired direct to the switch?
Just making sure I am not missing anything.
Thank you Allen! I used 12 and 14 gauge wire throughout, and I used the bus bars to distribute the power I needed for all the switches and fan. Could easily have used a fuse box to do the same thing, but would have been a tight fit.
Thanks for the great video. I had no idea how to even begin with electrical, now I feel I have a good grasp on it. I bought the lights and switches you have, but have a couple questions.
Do you have a link for the grommets you insert into the 1/2” holes to protect the wires?
Also, the lights say to use a 56mm hole saw, but you used a 2 3/8” hole saw I believe. Do you recommend the hole saw you used and are they holding well after getting some use?
Thanks again for the great series, you are fun to learn from!
Hi! Thanks for checking out the video, and glad it could help you out some! I purchased the gromets at an ACE hardware store in the 12 volt section where they sell the wiring and all the 12 volt connectors... you can probably find those at almost any automotive parts stores. I would probably recommend a 2-1/8" hole saw for the lights... mine are holding up very well with what I used, but better to make the hole a bit smaller. You can always sand it to make it bigger, but once it's too big then you have to find a way to make it smaller (a little more challenging). Thanks again for stopping by and checking out the build! al
what gauge of cables are those? I am thinking to go for 12g.
I believe I used 12 or 10 AWG wire. Pretty close to battery and not runnning a lot of power (lights and fan). Separate wiring to refrigerator. You will do okay with 12 AWG wire
@@OregonBatman I went 10 AWG from the battery to the bus bars. 12 AWG for the fan, and for a dome light on the hatch, 14 AWG. I will keep you posted. Thanks a bunch Mr Bates!
Nice BUILD, I have been following you and watching all your videos, top notch thank you, can you provide link to where you got lights?
Thanks David for following along!! Thanks for the comment! Here is the link for those lights: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPQ3B9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Care to share the brand of the torch you used for the shrink tubing?
Hi Rick, I used the Blazer PT 4000. Pretty handy little torch!
You are referring to a “fuse panel” but I do not see any fuses. How are you planning to protect your wiring and fixtures?
Hi Ricky! Yeah... I keep calling it a fuse panel, more like a junction box! I will have a fuse at the battery post to protect the wiring.
Where is the best place on the trailer to put the 30 volt AC hook up for camp sites that have electric and water and how long of a cord do we need .
I thought about installing one in the side at the rear on the drivers side... Run it through and connect to a power strip. It'll be hidden just behind the cooler. I always carry a 25' power cord with me to use at campsites. I might end up installing one on this build just to have it. That'll be easy! Thanks Steve!
Do you have links to ALL the products you purchased for the electrical build?
I would like to replicate what you have done👍
Replied to your email.... great build by the way, looks fantastic!
Is there anyway you could include the full list on CZcams? Thanks!
Hi i was wondering if u could email me the electrical build list id appreciate it thx
Could you include an amazon link to the perko 12 V adapter?
Sure thing... I purchased on Ebay: Perko 1190DP0CHR Chrome Plated 15A@12V 24A@32V Watertight Deck Connection
www.ebay.com/itm/194077313092?epid=1723286444&hash=item2d2fe8c844:g:zaUAAOSwOHxgizeV
What is the problem in trying to purchase the plans. Nothing works to contact you.
Sorry Richard! Not sure why the links aren't working... I've included the link below for you if you are interested...
www.paypal.me/OregonBatman97741/15
If that doesn't work, email me: batman97741@gmail.com
do you have any idea what the parasitic draw is on those touch switches is?
I do not... I don't think I have that information anywhere. Sorry