Matt great videos..what about water wicking up the footer or rising damp? What strategy do you use for a capillary break at the footing / subgrade?..... The "perfect footing" should match that waterproofing system you did at the walls... thoughts?
I have been doing waterproofing and foundation repairs for about 15yrs. This is the most thorough design I have seen yet. Most builders do the cheap way (thinned out tar) and ADS pipe. Only thing to keep in mind is the drain tile system is the weak point, you must keep it clear of silt and sediment which is always a challenge when your buried under 6-10' of "loose" back fill. Which is why now most codes require the interior system as well. The only other problem is the sump pump, if your finishing the basement or using it for storage its a wise investment to go with a battery backup system as if the pump stops working for any reason its game over for your finished basement, stored items and appliances. Great video Matt
I would think that the biggest reason as to why you would use a sump is to verify that the water is infact being pumped away from the foundation and the system is working correctly. If you don't have a sump and rely on gravity how would you be able to determine if the system is working correctly? With the pump you know 100% that the system is working correctly by the amount of water that the pump discharges and also at what rate.
@@DimagoDiesel - that's a good point you make, however since this builder added a ridiculously accessible cleanout, couldn't you verify that the water is being moved away by sticking a long flexible stick or rod down the cleanout. If 1 foot of the end of the rod is wet, then there must be 1 foot of standing water at the footer. If the end of the rod is dry, then that confirms there is no standing water at the footer. You could even leave the long rod in the cleanout just before a gigantic storm and pull it out after the storm to check the "high water mark" to test the performance and how fast the french drain can move water under worst case conditions.
@@donaldlee6760 absolutely, but who knows could have been a customer request also to have a sump discharge. I actually have two at my home one inside and one outside. Outside takes all the water away from the footer the interior pumps whatever the exterior let's leak into the basement. Also my washer machine and laundry sink are hooked into my interior as well. (I'm on well and septic.)
3:57 I would not feel comfortable draining exterior water to the inside of the basement just to be pumped back out. Why not treat the outside water separately and move it away from the property so that it is mechanically impervious to exterior water in the event of a power outage, plumbing failure, or backup pump failure?
It seems counter intuitive to bring water in just to pump it out, but many times it simply isn't possible (or is cost prohibitive) to gravity drain water away from a foundation.
AJ Roberts also there are parts of the country that the frost line is 48” or deeper, and not feasible to put a sump pump outside the wall. Otherwise I agree with you.
i always thumb up Matt's vids before i watch them because i know he only posts the best content. another great vid Matt, always appreciate you passing on knowledge!!
3.1 D- daylight. A lot of the basements we do are walk outs that are daylighted down the slope of the landscape. Lots of sloped lots here in Tennessee.
How do you deal with wall drain and brick which terminates at a roof for a bump out window and additionally where a brick chimney intersects a roof? I have in the past run the brick to a lintel over the window and flashed the roof into the brick. There has to be a better way. Thank you!
This works! keeps the water out without EXPENSIVE HEADACHES; hundreds in materials; under $2k with everything. czcams.com/video/cBN6xzfyoAg/video.html I've spent thousands, dug down to foundation, add 3 layers of protection & LATER found a way that cost HUNDREDS in materials plus some labor. MESSAGE ME for DETAILS.
I'd like to know more about basements in texas. I've seen the walkout style on hill sides and along lakes. But what about on level grade basements built in clay as east of Austin seems to be all clay.
This works! keeps the water out without EXPENSIVE HEADACHES; hundreds in materials; under $2k with everything. czcams.com/video/cBN6xzfyoAg/video.html I've spent thousands, dug down to foundation, add 3 layers of protection & LATER found a way that cost HUNDREDS in materials plus some labor. MESSAGE ME for DETAILS.
Hey Matt (or anyone with foundation waterproofing experience) what about older home with the stone and mortar basements? What options are put there for exterior waterproofing and interior waterproofing other than French drains?
We’ve fixed them before. Dig them out , clean them by pressure washing, allow them to dry, spray with 2” closed cell foam, spray a coating, add drain tile , gravel backfill.
Is water ingress inevitable? I cant wrap my head around why someone would want want almost a water well inside the home. Not trying to be a jerk just trying to learn. Thanks
Hi Matt, you didn't isolate the foundation wall from the footing to block capillary water movement from below on this job.. Do you have any case study videos where you did?
Love the Delta Grip I'm planning on installing on a Superior Wall foundation and footing system. Drilling into foundation is not recommended. I am also looking at doing an under slab bead board using DELTA®-MS UNDER-SLAB. So it will be Gravel base under, DELTA®-MS UNDERSLAB under, 2" XPS under Stego® Wrap under poured slab. a DIY with Delta will be much cheaper than the $2.50 per sq ft I was quoted for rub r wall with bead board.
It depends what the property looks like. If you have a good slope in your yard you can run your drain pipe to a lower spot in the yard where the water can drain to day light, which is the preferred method. If the bottom of your basement is the lowest spot on your property, then you'll need to install the sump pump which can be trouble if you lose power during a storm.
Yes. This is no more than Ice and Water stuck to the foundation in my opinion. Water doesn't pass through a 8" thick wall. It comes in through cracks and holes. The water will come up through the floor. You need to keep the pressure out of the foundation with pipes and a sump pump.
This particular house in a wet area of Texas ❓ That's a lotta Rubberized sealant ❗😱 I've watched 🍎guy🍏from Florida. I think he doesn't go deep enough. OR far enough away from the house ❗😦 👍 Matt
Kevin, are you aware of anyone who has utilized Line-X (polyurea) for a foundation membrane? I'm very interested in polyurea to be used from footer to roof top peak and have presented this question to Matt and other building science experts several times but have never received any sort of response. I'm not sure if it has ever been done in residential construction.
I've seen the application used for blast resistant/proof buildings as well. I haven't been able to find anything about potential toxic off gassing that may enter into interior side of the building. Liquid applied membranes is where the market is going. My impression is that Lstiburek seems to prefer liquid applied membranes over peel and stick. There is an obvious increase chance for error with peel and stick whereas liquid applied seems to be more forgiving for a less skilled technician. Peel and stick also relies heavily on chemistry ie adhesives to maintain barrier bond with substrate as well as to itself whereas polyurea forms a monolithic seamless barrier. Just curious on where you are located?
I'm in the military so until I retire I am from everywhere lol. But in general I call New England home.If I recall the Journal for light construction didn't have the best reviews for liquid membranes for right now, but I too think that is the future.
So Matt, any idea about basements in texas built out on flat land? I don't understand why there are no basements in Texas, being that where I am is over 200 feet above sea level the idea that we aren't high enough doesn't make sense to me. Have you been involved with a build that involved a basement here in texas on flat land and what are your thoughts?
Basements are common in the North because foundation footers must be below frost line to avoid damage from freeze.-thaw cycles. No such concern in Texas. Also, land is relatively cheap and it costs less for a given square footage to build slab-on-grade.
+Chest Rockwell Well I'm not up north anymore Chest. And I don't know what you consider cheap, we aren't all oil tycoons here in texas, land is not cheap unless your out in some remote BFE location. So with that being said, I will consider looking for a different builder whose at least knowledgeable about basements, which I have yet to find one, and where I'm building we can only go so high, 35ft.
+Chest Rockwell Another issue I have Chest is Matt doesn't respond. I can understand and would except an answer like "I have no idea" but to sit here waiting and waiting sucks. Also, Matt's build with SIPS, no real info, just technicality about the benefits which we all know. I would have paid to see that done.
i live in North Texas just north of Dallas. The soil we have is called black gumbo. It is a mix of black dirt and clay. If you dig in it with a shovel, it sticks to the shovel. Its volume can change as much as 40% depending on how dry it is. So in the summer it shrinks up, and can have big deep cracks. In the winter it gets waterlogged. The clay makes it hard for water to peculate down into the ground, so it either stands until it evaporates or runs off. Most people have foundation problems because of the ground moving so much between seasons. People have to water their foundations in the summer here. To build a basement to withstand the pressure is a lot more expensive, and has to have better engineering. In the past the land was so cheap it was cheaper to build out than to go down.
If anyone is curious bout cost....im getting this system done on a house i just bought in serbia. Its costing me 5600 euro. 12m x 8m foundation. They need to dig 1.7m down
With this particular foundation a fabric barrier was impractical because there was a considerable amount of rebar coming up through the footing into the underside of the wall. To address any possible issues relating to moisture intrusion via capillary action (either horizontal or vertical), the footing, the wall and the floor were all composed of hydraulic cement via Xypex admix. This was a relatively expensive safeguard and perhaps unnecessary, however, the house will have a finished basement and this extra insurance was deemed worthwhile. Others facing the issue of trying to install a capillary break in the presence of rebar, but at a lower cost, may want to investigate liquid applied footing barriers.
Yes, that's what every show on Earth is doing, unless they specifically go out of their way to tell you that they do not accept free products for reviews, get paid to review, or use affiliate links.
If you're pouring concrete or laying block and you want it 100% waterproof you need to be using Xypex. This ad-mix or paint-on product grows microscopic crystals when it gets wet and seals all of the voids in concrete. It can seal a 1/8" crack in the bottom of a pool in 3 days. I have no affiliation with Xypex but this stuff is a true miracle for concrete waterproofing. All of that layering of Dorken products is a total waste of time and money. Just throw a couple bags of Xypex in the concrete truck when it shows up on site, mix it for a few minutes, pour it like normal, and you're done. Moving on.
Phillip - exactly - I used Xypex on a concrete block foundation wall in Austin, Texas 20 years ago. Applied it myself according to a Xypex reps instructions. The rear wall of my house (50 linear feet) is 8 feet underground. I have had ZERO issues...works perfectly.
I'm sure this system does what it's supposed to but it seems like there needs to be a less labor intensive process to achieve the same results. Too many steps and parts to this system. Something better needs to be developed that achieves the same results with less labor and less steps to install.
Be mindful that Austin is climate zone 2. Heat is usually only needed for about 3-4 months per year. AC dominates energy use by a substantial margin. Insulating basement walls does virtually nothing to improve the heat gain of the structure (which would reduce energy for AC). With respect to heat loss, the house was energy modeled. Going from no basement wall insulation to R-5 reduced overall heat loss, but only by 7%. Given the relatively low cost of heating, adding more than R-5 to basement walls was unwarranted as R-5 already reached the point of diminishing returns.
This is no more than Ice and Water stuck to the foundation in my opinion. Water doesn't pass through a 8" thick wall. It comes in through cracks and holes. The water will come up through the floor. You need to keep the pressure out of the foundation with pipes and a sump pump.
This should be required on all new construction. Looks like a great method Matt, well done!
Matt great videos..what about water wicking up the footer or rising damp?
What strategy do you use for a capillary break at the footing / subgrade?..... The "perfect footing" should match that waterproofing system you did at the walls... thoughts?
I have been doing waterproofing and foundation repairs for about 15yrs. This is the most thorough design I have seen yet. Most builders do the cheap way (thinned out tar) and ADS pipe. Only thing to keep in mind is the drain tile system is the weak point, you must keep it clear of silt and sediment which is always a challenge when your buried under 6-10' of "loose" back fill. Which is why now most codes require the interior system as well. The only other problem is the sump pump, if your finishing the basement or using it for storage its a wise investment to go with a battery backup system as if the pump stops working for any reason its game over for your finished basement, stored items and appliances. Great video Matt
Any idea why they went with a sump over running the drain to daylight? Is it an issue of the land being too flat?
@@cantankerousclankingcontra8295 - I was wondering the same thing, the house on on a hill so what is the benefit of using a sump pump over gravity?
I would think that the biggest reason as to why you would use a sump is to verify that the water is infact being pumped away from the foundation and the system is working correctly. If you don't have a sump and rely on gravity how would you be able to determine if the system is working correctly? With the pump you know 100% that the system is working correctly by the amount of water that the pump discharges and also at what rate.
@@DimagoDiesel - that's a good point you make, however since this builder added a ridiculously accessible cleanout, couldn't you verify that the water is being moved away by sticking a long flexible stick or rod down the cleanout. If 1 foot of the end of the rod is wet, then there must be 1 foot of standing water at the footer. If the end of the rod is dry, then that confirms there is no standing water at the footer. You could even leave the long rod in the cleanout just before a gigantic storm and pull it out after the storm to check the "high water mark" to test the performance and how fast the french drain can move water under worst case conditions.
@@donaldlee6760 absolutely, but who knows could have been a customer request also to have a sump discharge. I actually have two at my home one inside and one outside. Outside takes all the water away from the footer the interior pumps whatever the exterior let's leak into the basement. Also my washer machine and laundry sink are hooked into my interior as well. (I'm on well and septic.)
would you recommend taping the seams where the foam insulation panels meet?
3:57 I would not feel comfortable draining exterior water to the inside of the basement just to be pumped back out. Why not treat the outside water separately and move it away from the property so that it is mechanically impervious to exterior water in the event of a power outage, plumbing failure, or backup pump failure?
It seems counter intuitive to bring water in just to pump it out, but many times it simply isn't possible (or is cost prohibitive) to gravity drain water away from a foundation.
AJ Roberts also there are parts of the country that the frost line is 48” or deeper, and not feasible to put a sump pump outside the wall. Otherwise I agree with you.
i always thumb up Matt's vids before i watch them because i know he only posts the best content. another great vid Matt, always appreciate you passing on knowledge!!
CaptainsOrders that's what I'm talking about! That's awesome. Thanks!
Great Video Matt.
As usual, great video Matt. Where do you buy this stuff?
3.1 D- daylight. A lot of the basements we do are walk outs that are daylighted down the slope of the landscape. Lots of sloped lots here in Tennessee.
You should do a video on what is and is not hydrostatic pressure in construction.
How do you deal with wall drain and brick which terminates at a roof for a bump out window and additionally where a brick chimney intersects a roof? I have in the past run the brick to a lintel over the window and flashed the roof into the brick. There has to be a better way. Thank you!
I really like the idea of not having to punch fasteners through the water barrier to attach the insulation. I wonder if that would work on walls.
Where can you find those stick on "STAB PINS"?
Matt, have you ever tried Rub-R-Wall product on the your foundations? If so what was your assessment?
This works! keeps the water out without EXPENSIVE HEADACHES; hundreds in materials; under $2k with everything. czcams.com/video/cBN6xzfyoAg/video.html I've spent thousands, dug down to foundation, add 3 layers of protection & LATER found a way that cost HUNDREDS in materials plus some labor. MESSAGE ME for DETAILS.
I'd like to know more about basements in texas. I've seen the walkout style on hill sides and along lakes. But what about on level grade basements built in clay as east of Austin seems to be all clay.
This works! keeps the water out without EXPENSIVE HEADACHES; hundreds in materials; under $2k with everything. czcams.com/video/cBN6xzfyoAg/video.html I've spent thousands, dug down to foundation, add 3 layers of protection & LATER found a way that cost HUNDREDS in materials plus some labor. MESSAGE ME for DETAILS.
How does this price compare with Closed Cell foam?!? How do you finish off the top portion that’s exposed!
Have you seen the CCHRC group's "REMOTE" building system? You should really look into their stuff, for northern building.
How do you connect to sub slab water barrier?
Did you install an internal waterstop between the footing and the wall along with the exterior applied cold joint flashing?
Synko-Flex waterstop was used in keyway.
Hey Matt (or anyone with foundation waterproofing experience) what about older home with the stone and mortar basements? What options are put there for exterior waterproofing and interior waterproofing other than French drains?
We’ve fixed them before. Dig them out , clean them by pressure washing, allow them to dry, spray with 2” closed cell foam, spray a coating, add drain tile , gravel backfill.
Why put sand bags next to the french drain? it might roll over and obstruct the french drain
Matt isn't the rebar puncturing through the waterproofing?
Is water ingress inevitable? I cant wrap my head around why someone would want want almost a water well inside the home. Not trying to be a jerk just trying to learn. Thanks
same approach as to existing leaky basement.? Nice video Matt.
Hi Matt, you didn't isolate the foundation wall from the footing to block capillary water movement from below on this job.. Do you have any case study videos where you did?
Love the Delta Grip I'm planning on installing on a Superior Wall foundation and footing system. Drilling into foundation is not recommended. I am also looking at doing an under slab bead board using DELTA®-MS UNDER-SLAB. So it will be Gravel base under, DELTA®-MS UNDERSLAB under, 2" XPS under Stego® Wrap under poured slab.
a DIY with Delta will be much cheaper than the $2.50 per sq ft I was quoted for rub r wall with bead board.
Thanks for sharing this.
Do you always need a sump pump with new construction if done right?
Yes. If you don't, the water won't be able to leave on its own.
It depends what the property looks like. If you have a good slope in your yard you can run your drain pipe to a lower spot in the yard where the water can drain to day light, which is the preferred method. If the bottom of your basement is the lowest spot on your property, then you'll need to install the sump pump which can be trouble if you lose power during a storm.
Yes. This is no more than Ice and Water stuck to the foundation in my opinion. Water doesn't pass through a 8" thick wall. It comes in through cracks and holes. The water will come up through the floor. You need to keep the pressure out of the foundation with pipes and a sump pump.
Excellent
If only production builders would adopt something like this.
I think you forgot to put the part when you terminate the waterproofing system. Good job.
nice
This particular house in a wet area of Texas ❓ That's a lotta
Rubberized sealant ❗😱
I've watched 🍎guy🍏from Florida. I think he doesn't go deep enough. OR far enough away from the house ❗😦
👍 Matt
who is a u.s. distributor for this the website kinda sucks
How about just spraying the foundation in Line-X?
Kevin, are you aware of anyone who has utilized Line-X (polyurea) for a foundation membrane? I'm very interested in polyurea to be used from footer to roof top peak and have presented this question to Matt and other building science experts several times but have never received any sort of response. I'm not sure if it has ever been done in residential construction.
I know the government has used it to make walls blast proof.
I am interested too esp to see how it would hold up over time.
I've seen the application used for blast resistant/proof buildings as well. I haven't been able to find anything about potential toxic off gassing that may enter into interior side of the building. Liquid applied membranes is where the market is going. My impression is that Lstiburek seems to prefer liquid applied membranes over peel and stick. There is an obvious increase chance for error with peel and stick whereas liquid applied seems to be more forgiving for a less skilled technician. Peel and stick also relies heavily on chemistry ie adhesives to maintain barrier bond with substrate as well as to itself whereas polyurea forms a monolithic seamless barrier. Just curious on where you are located?
I'm in the military so until I retire I am from everywhere lol. But in general I call New England home.If I recall the Journal for light construction didn't have the best reviews for liquid membranes for right now, but I too think that is the future.
So Matt, any idea about basements in texas built out on flat land? I don't understand why there are no basements in Texas, being that where I am is over 200 feet above sea level the idea that we aren't high enough doesn't make sense to me. Have you been involved with a build that involved a basement here in texas on flat land and what are your thoughts?
Matt I'm looking for information about basements in texas, are you able to assist with this?
Basements are common in the North because foundation footers must be below frost line to avoid damage from freeze.-thaw cycles. No such concern in Texas. Also, land is relatively cheap and it costs less for a given square footage to build slab-on-grade.
+Chest Rockwell Well I'm not up north anymore Chest. And I don't know what you consider cheap, we aren't all oil tycoons here in texas, land is not cheap unless your out in some remote BFE location.
So with that being said, I will consider looking for a different builder whose at least knowledgeable about basements, which I have yet to find one, and where I'm building we can only go so high, 35ft.
+Chest Rockwell Another issue I have Chest is Matt doesn't respond. I can understand and would except an answer like "I have no idea" but to sit here waiting and waiting sucks. Also, Matt's build with SIPS, no real info, just technicality about the benefits which we all know. I would have paid to see that done.
i live in North Texas just north of Dallas. The soil we have is called black gumbo. It is a mix of black dirt and clay. If you dig in it with a shovel, it sticks to the shovel. Its volume can change as much as 40% depending on how dry it is. So in the summer it shrinks up, and can have big deep cracks. In the winter it gets waterlogged. The clay makes it hard for water to peculate down into the ground, so it either stands until it evaporates or runs off. Most people have foundation problems because of the ground moving so much between seasons. People have to water their foundations in the summer here. To build a basement to withstand the pressure is a lot more expensive, and has to have better engineering. In the past the land was so cheap it was cheaper to build out than to go down.
If anyone is curious bout cost....im getting this system done on a house i just bought in serbia. Its costing me 5600 euro. 12m x 8m foundation. They need to dig 1.7m down
Very very expensive .
Buster scruggs building a house 👍
If you don’t have the time to do it right the first time when will you have time to do it again
All that protection on the walls is compromised without DELTA FOOTING BARRIER to combat rising damp.
With this particular foundation a fabric barrier was impractical because there was a considerable amount of rebar coming up through the footing into the underside of the wall. To address any possible issues relating to moisture intrusion via capillary action (either horizontal or vertical), the footing, the wall and the floor were all composed of hydraulic cement via Xypex admix. This was a relatively expensive safeguard and perhaps unnecessary, however, the house will have a finished basement and this extra insurance was deemed worthwhile. Others facing the issue of trying to install a capillary break in the presence of rebar, but at a lower cost, may want to investigate liquid applied footing barriers.
the URL he gives at the end does not work. Use this: www.doerken.com
Footing, footing (or foundation), NOT footer
Looks like advertisement for a particular brand
All your videos are sponsored by product manufacturers
Yes, that's what every show on Earth is doing, unless they specifically go out of their way to tell you that they do not accept free products for reviews, get paid to review, or use affiliate links.
If you're pouring concrete or laying block and you want it 100% waterproof you need to be using Xypex. This ad-mix or paint-on product grows microscopic crystals when it gets wet and seals all of the voids in concrete. It can seal a 1/8" crack in the bottom of a pool in 3 days. I have no affiliation with Xypex but this stuff is a true miracle for concrete waterproofing. All of that layering of Dorken products is a total waste of time and money. Just throw a couple bags of Xypex in the concrete truck when it shows up on site, mix it for a few minutes, pour it like normal, and you're done. Moving on.
They used Xypex as well.
Phillip - exactly - I used Xypex on a concrete block foundation wall in Austin, Texas 20 years ago. Applied it myself according to a Xypex reps instructions. The rear wall of
my house (50 linear feet) is 8 feet underground. I have had ZERO issues...works perfectly.
Matt Cant find any of this shit Risinger
I'm sure this system does what it's supposed to but it seems like there needs to be a less labor intensive process to achieve the same results.
Too many steps and parts to this system.
Something better needs to be developed that achieves the same results with less labor and less steps to install.
R-5? Yah, ok. I'm sure it'll work there, but it makes me feel icky.
Be mindful that Austin is climate zone 2. Heat is usually only needed for about 3-4 months per year. AC dominates energy use by a substantial margin. Insulating basement walls does virtually nothing to improve the heat gain of the structure (which would reduce energy for AC). With respect to heat loss, the house was energy modeled. Going from no basement wall insulation to R-5 reduced overall heat loss, but only by 7%. Given the relatively low cost of heating, adding more than R-5 to basement walls was unwarranted as R-5 already reached the point of diminishing returns.
This is no more than Ice and Water stuck to the foundation in my opinion. Water doesn't pass through a 8" thick wall.
It comes in through cracks and holes. The water will come up through the floor. You need to keep the pressure out of the foundation with pipes and a sump pump.
You are wrong because everywhere the wall ties go through the wall you have penetrations .