The Wonderful Versatility of an 18th Century Jacket 🧵 Sewing Tutorial 🧵
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- čas přidán 1. 08. 2024
- Making my 18th century jacket!
TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro
01:18 Part 1: Research and Design
05:07 Part 2: Patterning and Mockup
11:32 Part 3: Construction
14:32 Part 4: Back Seams and Pleats
16:10 Part 5: Lacing Eyelets
18:57 Part 6: Sleeves
25:34 Part 7: Alterations
28:05 Part 8: Trimmings
30:45 Review
35:03 Chicken Update
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The best pressing tip I ever received is that silk organza makes a really good pressing cloth, since it's a) indestructible and b) transparent.
Indeed. Splurged on that a decade ago and no regrets. Although they are, in fact, falling apart now. But hey, it's silk, it's allowed to start disintegrating after years of contact with a hot iron and steam.
Clever! Thank you.
Literally adding that to my shopping list 😂 thanks for the idea!
When you were hesitant about the side seem I said out loud "don't do it!"and heard you say back in the video "ok I won't do it! Ugh!" And I just started laughing 😂
I have definitely made the same "mistake" with not adding enough ease between mockup and final 3 layer stiff final garment. I'm glad you were able to recover and wound up with a result you liked.
I almost feel like the second mockup stage should have the stiffening layer incorporated into it, which can be repurposed for the final product. And obviously always putting on all the underlayers that will be worn during all the fittings. It's a pain, but I think it's necessary.
Seeing you sew on that old Singer makes my heart sing. I learned on my Mom's 42 Singer, Ive owned many other machines since, but I always go back to that beautiful machine every time.
I really like seeing your process of alterations after you've done the rough construction of the final product already, it's just so relatable and realistic😅
Yeah it happens to me too, all the time!
Yes, in terms of 'learning experience' for the viewer, her making the occasional mistake isn't bad at all. And very relatable 😅
I love how you blended the different feature of various coats to make yours.
I love how unique it looks yet definitely still very 18th century! Also you mentioning that that historybounding vine dress was 3 years ago made me realise how time flies, it doesn't feel like so long ago!
Right?! I remember her making it. Like, last week or the week before.
... You have just blown my mind with that seam allowance pen trick, how have I never thought of doing that!
Autumn olives are also nitrogen-fixing - part of why they're invasive is that they can do just fine in poor soil because they have a symbiotic relationship with bacteria in the soil that can pull nitrogen from the air to feed the plant (most plants can't do that).
You can make use of that feature by planting a tree in the middle of the autumn olive thicket - the tree will have access to the extra nitrogen as it grows.
If you plant a climax species tree (nut trees or other long-lived upper storey canopy trees) you can literally plant it and ignore it because it evolved to germinate and grow slowly from a shaded forest floor. Oaks are often the natural climax species for the midwest, if you're looking for the hardiest native tree (ie, one that is likely to succeed even with neglect) - but there are probably a few different options for your region other than oak, too.
If you want a tree that's not a long-lived upper canopy species (including fruit tree species), plant it right up against the south side of the autumn olive thicket. If the autumn olives start to expand and cast too much shade on the seedling, prune them back heavily to release the light for your tree. You can prune autumn olive heavily at any time of year without killing it, so it will continue to feed and shelter your chickens until the tree is a few decades old and shading its "nursery" out.
LOVE how this jacket turned out! The shorter length is perfect, and the trimming is just exquisite. And that brown lacing ribbon seems to match the floral trim. Looks like you did that on purpose!
That trim turned out SO good, it looks phenomenal. I'm impressed the pinking machine still works! I mean, for the most part. And CHICKENS!! That new chicken with the best hairdo looked very comfy after she was done being scared out of her mind. And I love that the chickens have taken a liking to that berry, they must be so pleased with their new treat!
you sharpen those with a triangle-shaped file. you don't have to heat it to sharpen it. it's like a shaped chisel or a pair of scissors. just go slow and only pull/push the file in only 1 direction while you do it.
I *love* the back view!! Especially where the sleeves attach!
The chicken updates are just so relaxing to me.
I am so happy to be home sick with all this cozy sewing content. Perfect timing! 😷
It really works for the capsule wardrobe.
That fabric is sublime! And it looks very similar to a fabric I wanted to match a portrait but alas it was not in the budget
I’m not sure it would have helped but I was always taught to fit from inside out. Meaning everything that needs to be on for the garment fitting, needs to be on for the mock up. Then if they can be separate, fit the next layer ( shirt, vest, jacket or lining then shell and interfacing over it. So far, it’s worked for me.
I definitely prefer it with the lighter bodices on you, that really elongates your torso, very flattering❤
Your drafting skills are so impressive! I know you felt like you had to do too many alterations, but I wouldn't have even known how to do them.The jacket is gorgeous. I really love the trim!
So lovely!!!
In theatre we always leave 1" seam allowances in center back and side seams. Mostly so if later they need to be repurosed. This is also after we've made mock ups to fit perfectly! Then it's usually 1/2" seam allowances on other seams (depending on the shop).
As far as draping or flat patterning I was trying to look up "wearing ease" in my patterning books but basically depending on what it is we always were told to leave a certain amount and not skin tight. For example if your waist is 26" you usually pattern for 27" unless it really bulky. For draping we had to drape with adding in the ease. If we were pulling a sloper pattern off the dress form for a basic flat patterning block then it's skin tight because the ease all depends on what you'll be flat patterning from the form (or if you are making a sloper for yourself and have made a sloper mock up). But yes, gurl! Add in that wearing ease and layer ease! 😉
There's other things I've learned from commerical patterns and patterning like the back shoulder seam is a weee bit wider and eases into the front seam. It's that little extra give when moving your arms. Patterning and how the body moves and the little secrets built into them are so fascinating!
I think I tend to overfit my stuff as well. The makers I follow and admire have impeccable fit, and I strive for that in my projects. But my most recent make ended up a wee bit too tight, especially up in the armscyes, and by the time I realized it, it was basically too late. Unpicking would ruin the lining and create a cascade of other issues, and that's a path I'm not willing to travel. But it's a learning process, and that's what I love most about historical sewing. I carry the lessons forward with each new project. Robe a la francaise on the workbench at the moment!
The jacket is lovely; your skills and artistry have grown wonderfully over the years, and it shows in your creations. And much as I enjoy your sewing (that’s what I subscribed for) I have come to look forward to the avian updates. The way you care for those birds is so endearing; those feathered floofs are lucky to have a mama like you. 😊
I look at the finished jacket in total awe of your skills and you look at it and point out it’s imaginary flaws! It’s beautiful! Xx
A basic pattern is the best gift! The options to create your own style are endless ❤ I am making my 3rd Jacket right now. Fancy Brocade fabric. Thanks for your videos ❤❤❤
Came for the sewing, stayed for the chickens.
You could try running aluminum foil through? As a soft option...
Looks great and I like your tool for crimping the edges
ps, If you plant a few of your favorite fruit trees near the autumn olive, they will do better than elsewhere.
You have made another beautiful, historic, yet functional piece. Well done. Thanks for filming it for us.
I think this turned out really well, and I think you should make at least one or two more jackets to mix and match with your pieces. I think shortening the skirt/peplum was absolutely the right call even though it ended up wasting a bit of fabric, the length of this finished jacket is pretty much perfect, and I would do any other jackets at this same length. It would be cool to see that one version you showed in the pattern book that closes at the center front without a stomacher if you want to vary up the construction a bit on subsequent jackets.
I would absolutely love a video about your antique sewing machine, the story of how you got it, the experience of sewing on it. Is it a treadle, hand crank, or electric machine? It's so gorgeous!
Your explanations are always very clear. Don’t know if I will ever make any 18th century clothes, but if I do, at least I know I can follow your method 😊
30:45
re-watching this part at .75 speed to really take in all the beauty.
🌺
I just discovered your wonderful channel and you have no idea how much I love your tutorials and I like that you like historical styles ❤ keep it up and looking forward to seeing your new and interesting creations
Me: I am looking forward to seeing nice footage of cute chickens, this will be chill and relaxing
My dog: I WILL PROTECT YOU FROM INVADING TV MONSTERS.
Deep sigh
You can dye your own lacing ribbon - in tea, or coffee?
Well done! You are a hard working seamstress! Lovely results! Chickens!
If they're still bare-backed when the weather starts getting cold, you can make them some chicken sweaters. I made a few for my friend back when she had a sick chicken - I used my knitting machine, but I'm sure you could sew one with some warm fabric if needed. I came for the sewing content, stayed for the chicken content, so if you ever mix the two then I'll squeal lol
So nice to see your process! Thank you for sharing as always❤
I have autumn olive. They are amazing in salads, and mixed into a chutney or sauce, and also good in mixed juice. They are extremely nutritious.
when i see other sewing youtubers put out a new video: ooh new sewing video! click!
when i see mariah pattie out out a new video: ooh new sewing video AND A CHICKEN UPDATE?!?!!1! click click clikety click
Love, love, love this project! 💖
It turned out so cute! Loved seeing the trick with the pinking for the frilly trim!
For sharpening your tool, do you the running a folder piece of aluminum foil through it several time would work, like it does with scissors?
I loved the long skirt. But, opening up the side of the jacket was a fabulous idea.
I love the colour you chose - it's such a beautiful shade of brown 😍. Love how it turned out!
Edit: love the footage of you chasing the chicken and the new babies! Congratulations!
Adding to the chorus. You REALLY need a half yard of silk organza so you can see what you are pressing through.
A cheap investment compared to the price of your many projects. 😀
Ahh I love how this turned out!
i especially love it paired with the pink linen!!
Don't be to hard on yourself. It looks very beautiful
on the crimper ... have you tried to take it apart (the gears / cutters) and file the teeth? (fine flat file) and the tin foil trick? It is probably so old and they built things to last.
I love seeing the chickens and turkey. They're so cute!
I don't know what's fancier, your spectacular jacket or Disco, the Free Chicken!
What a sweet, versatile little jacket. And you're right, the shorted length suits you perfectly.
I love, that it has different design options built in with the stomachers. How convenient!
Too bad, that that neat little trim machine can't be sharpened like normal tools. Is it, because the parts move against each other and you can't remove material by filing it away, without making the problem worse? Kinda like scissors do as well, but those have a screw you can tighten (if they're meant for sharpening)? Just curious.
What a wonderful job ❤
Chickens are doing so well you doing amazing 🤩
Very lovely, I got the same fabric, wish I bought more. and I should be able to use it this new month.
This is the first of your videos I've seen in months, at the very least. I'm glad you are alright.
"Stinky Cute" would be Rachel words 😂❤❤
very nice!! The color is very versatile!
I think that came out very cute!
Nailed it 🎉
you can have a replacement blade custom cnc'd from tool steel and hardened it's a bit of an involved process and probably not cheap but it can be done
Video idea: you please please please show us the math of a french curve. I bought one trying to shorten the curved bottom of a t-shirt and had absolutely no clue what i was doing. Google failed me. You could do a top ten things to do with your french curve video ☺️
Very pretty 😀
I once goggled how to sharpen a whole punch, and the answer is to punch through tin foil, and it works. Maybe run a couple pieces through the mashine
There is 3D print wax to make cast mold to make. However, they are kind of expensive to have or you could find someone who can print for you and cast mold to make.
you can sorta sharpen dull scissors by cutting a bunch of tinfoil. I wonder if running tinfoil through your kinking tool would get it running a bit smoother.
You have remarkable taste.
I'm not sure if you have already answered this question somewhere else, but what program do you use to render your designs for the capsule wardrobe videos? The way you do it looks so clean and easy. Also, I love your videos and I always feel so inspired after watching them. Thank you!
It’s not clean and easy, sorry 🙃 it’s Adobe Illustrator. I’ve got a lot of practice with it and I edit down the footage for the videos.
Hi Mariah, did you pin the non-laced stomachers or did you attach them with hooks? I am nearly finished with a jacket insipired by you, looking forward to join you on patreon!
When it's time to remove your machine-sewn basting in the armscye, wouldn't it have been easier to use the lomgest stitch length available to you on your machine?
Nurse Rachett needs a chicken saddle
I just started watching, hoping you make the pattern from scratch ❤
Sorry, I started from a pattern I made previously.
@@MariahPattie and it turned out stunning ❤️
Fun Fact: the girl scout is Harmony from Buffy.
Ugh did that with my arm hole didn’t account for the thick sleeves lol. Also which chicken was the one that kept staying by you as you sewed? Still there?
Ophelia. All healed up!
Where can I buy your patterns?
Do you have any advice for dealing with coyotes? My parents list 3 adult chickens: a rooster and 2 hens.
Nothing other than tall fences or a big dog. We’re lucky right now that we have enough neighbors around us with dogs that we haven’t had a coyote problem yet.
@MariahPattie well, I guess they need a new dog. She is lame and old. Didn't hear the coyotes. Not even a bark. The chickens were free ranging. I think they are putting them in the fence sooner now.
Just out of curiosity will you ever continue your worldbuilding?
Seeing you round out the the seam allowences on the sleeve after fitting it made me literally vince! Pleats and ruffles need the jagged seam allowences to fit correctly over curves!
Also, you should have made the sleeve tighter by shortening it vertically from the middle. That way you would also have gotten rid of the puffy pleats on the shoulder.
Why blue thread? Just curious =)
I have tons of old spools people have given me and i use it sewing inside seams that won’t show.
when I say I clicked like the speed of light
my grannie wore that girdle i remember see it
There's a reenactment village here in Canada and their costumes are not even as accurate as your costumes ones. They are so bad and every time someone on you tube says they are not a historical reenacter all I can think is don't worry about it the bar really isn't that high!!!
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Autumn olive is a nitrogen fixer
Invasive species is annoying, BUT free chicken feed is awesome!
Hell, I'd follow for the chickens alone, to say nothing of the excellent sewing.