Monolith Knives - Making a Pair of Stainless Damascus Bread Knives - Long Version
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- čas přidán 4. 07. 2024
- Monolith Knives was recently asked to build two custom stainless Damascus bread knives for an Instagram account called "What's In Your Roll" run by award winning Chef, Jeff Bonillia which is produced in association with www.chefsroll.com.
These two bread knives will be tested, used by a group of chefs selected by the folks at www.chefsroll.com for video series from @ChefJeffBonilla & @Chefsroll that takes a look at hand crafted chefs knives, kitchen tools & the badass craftsman that make them.
chefsroll.com
The video here follows through our process step by step and how we make these and other knives by hand at Monolith Knives. Thanks for watching and find us at:
www.monolithknives.com
/ monolithknives
Special thanks to:
/ whats_in_your_roll
/ chefsroll
/ damasteelab
/ vegasforge - Jak na to + styl
How is this video not more popular
Beats me man. I worked hard on it and it seems it gets no attention.
WOW! Stunning work and great explanation! The dark blade with the green handle is a dreamknife, beautiful!
Finally a great video with super helpful voice over! Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks!! It was all filmed on a phone. Pretty incredible.
Thanks. I hate my voice though. I sound like an old smoking lady, LOL.
This a great video. We need more videos. Thank you. Happy New Year!
great video - learned a lot. Not very many bread knife videos out there - I really appreciated this one though!
Great, the other design calls for offset ergo handle but damn they look ugly.
Great video! You give really good advice and instruction
Thanks Aaron- please throw us a like if you think so.
You should use an old school paper cutter 😁
Thats a great idea! I actually have bought a similar cutter for cutting steel that's even better. Thanks for the advice!
Nice knives. Curious why you would do the shaping after hardening though since it will be much easier to shape before heat treat.
Also, the acetone can actually prevent glue from sticking properly because it is not pure and will leave its own residue. A better process is to wipe with acetone then do a light grind on the handle with a new 120 gritbelt just to leave a fresh surface then blow the dust off with air. This will give you the best surface for adhesion.
If you were to grind blades to the thickness at the edge as we do, which is roughly a few thousandths of an inch you will certainly end up with a blade that looks like bacon after heat treating. Even partial grinding offer little advantage compared to the problems it can create. This practice is industry standard. Even people who mill their bevels, do so using carbide so to tackle the hardened steel.
As for the acetone. This process has been tested and proven many times on CZcams. Grinder belts are exactly why we do this. They are loaded with carbon and leave this on your steel and some woods are so oily naturally that this needs to be cut to provide a cleaner surface. Hitting the surface even with a new belt will leave trace amounts of dust and carbon that should not be there.
I’ve never had scales come loose since I started doing this this way and I’ve been doing it for 8 years. If those processes you described work for you then that’s great! They proved not so for myself and many other knife makers who shared these tips with me. Everyone should always do what works best for them. Thanks for the comments.
@@zackworrell535 interesting. I have had some scales come apart when using buffalo horn after using the acetone but didn't have a problem when using a fresh belt. I wonder if the surface makes a difference there...
For the grinding, I understand doing the bevels after the heat treat but it looked like you did some of the shaping after heat treat which is what didn't make sense. I may have missed something though since I did skip some bits in the middle.
@@OrganizationalEngineering It really has to do with the difference between kitchen knives (thin) and sporting knives (thick). The latter of the two can certain ly be ground prior to HT, at least partial grinding.
I don't know what glue you use but you should consider using G-flex if you don't already. The only failure I have seen it succumb to is a 125+ degree dishwasher
What kind of belt sander did you use to get the serrations onto the knife?
It is a standard 2x72 belt grinder built by Wilmont Machinery in NC. It's called a TAG-1
*Says it’s paramount to remove all oil from hands before applying epoxy
*wipes blade with a hands after cleaning before applying epoxy
😂😂
After handling a rag covered in acetone I'm pretty sure it's all good, a funny observation of irony no less.
Great video, thanks. Just one thing, you really should start wearing gloves when you are handling epoxy, it can cause nasty reactions and the more you are exposed to it, the more likely they are to happen and the worse they get. You can even land up with having anaphylactic reactions if you are highly sensitised to it which would mean you can't handle epoxy at all, or even go in an environment where it's being used. Then that's your job gone. It's happened to boat makers.
Thanks for the compliments. I appreciate the concern, I think someone who is new to knife making should consider this advice.
As for me, I use very little epoxy compared to a boat maker or even a furniture maker. With years of experience I have become very good at using it without getting it on my hands anymore. Trust me I hate that crap on my skin. If I were to get it on me I would never leave it on my skin for even a few seconds. I use a citrus based soap which breaks down G-flex better than un-healthy chemicals like Acetone or Lacquer thinner. Thanks again!
Thank you a lot! Can I ask you the initial thickness of the steel piece you start from, and the final thickness you tipically reach for a bread knife?
The steel we use is Damasteel from Swededen. It comes in any thickness you request. We typically order 3mm (.120") for bread knives
Great video! What heat treat recipe do you follow, in the oven at 1500 then ramp to 1950 and soak for 10 more min? Thanks
73 Forge Knives, your question has me confused. This was expalained in the video. These are Damasteel and AEB-L stainless steel blades. Ramp the oven to 1500, let it sit for 2 minutes to get stuff in the kiln, resume heat to 1950, let soak for 10 remove, remove, air quench, temper twice @300egrees for 2 hrs each time.
Thanks zack, I may have misunderstood, appreciate the response👍🏼
Here's another new long ass video on making resin knife scales of wood and resin. czcams.com/video/JTsXLvP_vBg/video.html