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How to Install Weight Jacks that don't Bind in Load on Your Race car. Get them Right the First time!
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- čas přidán 29. 01. 2024
- In this 11th episode of our Crate Racin USA Street Stock Build, I am showing a quick easy way to locate and install a front spring weight jack. This time we get the location correct so that the spring is correctly aligned in the position it will typically be compressed to and that a big deal to help make you race car work better and go faster.
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Let’s gooooo!!!! Man I’m here for all the updates on this one!! This thing is going to be sharp!
I think she'll be somethin I can work with a lot better on the track
I raced Street Stocks for years. I can tell you from experience that handling through the corners is more important than horsepower. The attention to detail you are incorporating in this build is impressive. Maybe you will be able to attack the corners a little harder and accelerate a little quicker and quit using that damn brake pedal. You know I hate the idea of using the brakes on a Stredt Stock. Love your channel. Im going to get to a track and see you this season.
I agree less brake is always better however just be aware these cars have become significantly faster in the slick as they have adapted to a driving style closer to asphalt where you absolutely are braking and setting up to roll into the turn. It's just where the technology has went. But I have a heck of a lot of fun in my camaro on a hooked up track where i can just park my right foot out of the way and let'r eat ;)
I would love to see you do factory stock style front end with the hidden spring adjusters and the stock mount shocks. I feel like the adjusters bind and have always wanted to try cutting them to an angle. Also shock clearance is a challenge.
I've done several Camaros over the years and that would be a fun project to for example do another metric but see just how "good" I could get the front end while staying in side a "must be stock" ruleset. Definitely on my bucket list and would be a fun build.
Very good video Jason. I have seen several using the stock upper shock hole. Hell I need to check mine!! Lol
Cant wait for the next video. Take care!
Yes sir, mee too on that shock hole in the past!
Yeah I see you get to use an aftermarket lower r Street stock class up here we have to use a stock lower I'm going to have to check mine to see how centered it is but that was an awesome video buddy can't wait till you do the next well you have a good one buddy talk to you later
Same issue definitely exists for a stock lower as well but I bet it is much better for some and worse for others. Thanks Rick and good luck racing this year.
Sunkist be good name for the car.. last one was Crush stick with the soft drink names.
It's not ringing quite right for me Sam, this ole girl gonna have some grit. Need a name to match that
Hey Jason. Awhile back you mentioned that you were considering using a center link from a late 80’s camero. I noticed on your site that you have gotten an AFCO AFCO30271 center link. Do you know if they’re the same? I looked at the Moog DS1049 and it seems to be the same as the AFCO.
I believe they are, I have the afco siting in my shop and will be installing it so I should be able to add some detail about what it is in comparison as a part of that.
@@DIRTRACELIFE Thank you so much.
Why a Chrysler frame? or just the control arm?
This is a GM 1978-1987 Metric "G Body" frame and those lowers although tubular are the mount points and locations that match a Chevy Nova lower control arm. The reason I am using the longer nova style lowers is to increase the spring ratio from the stock 23% to 30% and to widen the track.
Hello I’m wondering if you can explain what the heights of the rear upper control arm mounts will change. I assume you made them different height so that the car will have level arms at dynamic ride. My class must have same height but I was told the lower=the more drive you get. Thanks!
The angle of the upper control arm is setting the anti/pro dive. As you drop the rear or raise the front of the upper control arm, you are increasing Antidive . Antidive on the front wheel is a mechanical leverage you create that will make the car resist diving (compressing the front spring) when using the brake. Basically it works like this, When you hit the brake the caliper is bolted to the spindle and is trying to slow the tire down. Well that force is trying to rotate the whole spindle clockwise, forward at the top. The angle of the control arm can either make that arm want to push down (anti) or push up (pro) based on its angle in relation to the spindle and lower arm.
Thats the shortest version of how it works I can come up with but I have a video on this from two years ago that explains it in more detail and I will link it here.
czcams.com/video/GcNUms8DSvQ/video.html
I was actually referring to the angle of the rear upper control arms. Basically, what does raising or lowering the rear end axle mounts change
is the crush still 112?
Yes, the crush was a 112" 73-77 chassis.Of course this one is a metric 108"
Seems like this will be a night and day difference
I sure think so Junior