I Built Custom Ladder Bars for my 61 Ford Falcon Gasser.. #22
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- čas přidán 22. 09. 2023
- I build custom Ladder bars for my 61 ford falcon Gasser.. I built the ladder bars paying attention to the Neutral or anti squat line of the car to take full advantage of full traction tuneability.
Earned my sub just to see the finished product. Good luck.
I just found your channel, nice installation. One thought, on the lower bar threaded end, you might want to be sure the joint isn't wedged into the bar from distortion of welding. You'd hate to be at the track and not be able to make an adjustment if need be. Maybe just run a tap in the threads to be sure it'll still thread in or out. Just an idea, I'm a few years older than you and have run into a few situations at the track, it's always the one tool you didn't bring that causes grief.
Thanks. I already ran into that situation on the tie rod. I messed up and welded the end then screwed in the Rod end in while it was still warm and seized up in there. I was able to cut it and use it for the steering leak so I didn’t waste one end and the chrome Molly tube.
I think I'm going to watch and see what happens before saying a word.
(I'm such a liar)
Mine also pivots in front and some are skeptical that it will work. Almost ready to do some testing. Also getting some feedback about putting on a safety loop around the front Hime joint.
I think it's a requirement on some NHRA tracks. Can you imagine what would happen if that front Hime joint let go. I have raced someone that had it happen to and luckily, they lifted when it happened.
I don’t think the front hime joints an issue. The leaf spring actually holds the rear end in place if that joint let’s go it go up and hit the frame and might unload the car weird but it wouldn’t do anything too drastic.
Never really crossed my mind to say drilling the hole and welding that tube in the frame rail was gonna make it weak. Everything you do is pretty overkill!
I thought it would look cool. Plus more weld and it’s going to have a 8.50 chromoly cage so it’s not going anywhere 😀
Great info and Gasser
thanks man
interesting, never heard of a shackle for forward mounting point on ladder bars always thoight it was a fixed location.
They actually are. I don’t like the idea of leaf spring sliders although people have used them forever, they seem sketchy to me. I would suggest mine are more like a torque arm than a ladder bar. Torque arms have a small shackle or sliding pivot at the front.
I am curious to see what that shackle does. When the pinion raises the bar should push. Unless you’re building a stopper on the shackle to bottom out in the frame I don’t see how it’s going to transfer any of that energy into the chassis.
The spring transfers forward force as usual. The ladder bar helps weight transfer as well as stopping spring wrap. The shackle allows the suspension to work.
I’m just confused my ladder bars don’t bolt to a shackle they have a crossmember and bolt solid but I eliminated my leaf springs. I’m just confused how these will work unless the leaf springs will float allowing the rear end housing to pivot twisting the arms but you’d still think the front wouldn’t be bolted to a shackle like that.
There is a shackle on the front of the ladder bar that lets the suspension work. The ladder bar is to eliminate axle wrap and help with weight transfer. It’s the same principle as a torque arm.
Lower adjuster where did you get it ? Part number please. Is it right and left hand for adjustment
I got them for speedway motors. I went with the bigger stronger option. Speedway Motors |#1750527
Pro-1 Chromoly Heim Joint Rod Ends, 3/4-16 RH Male, 5/8 Inch Hole. QA1 | #721AS1212
)QA1 AS12-12 Rod End Linkage Adjuster, 3/4-16 RH Female Thread, 3/4-16 LH by Speedway Motors | #91002966
Steel Tube Ends Weld Bung for 1 Inch I.D. Tube, 3/4-16 LH
It’s adjustable without having to unbolt anything.