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Sold it several yrs ago

Well its ran for 8 yrs in my lifted golf cart with no governor. Its now starting to use oil. I cant complain one bit about all the fun I've had with it.

@@jackel440 thanks Buddy,,,have you ever used a honda GX series motor ?

@@fensterputzernuernbergerlangen I haven't used one in a golf cart but have them on a trash pump and a power washer.

I backed the idle screw all the way off. When you let off the pedal the throttle plate closes all the way. Then it dies from the lack of fuel entering the intake. Not foolproof as it has kept running a couple times but very rare. There is a way to have the ignition cut out with a relay but I haven't seen a need to rewire it for that

I put it in a Yamaha G9. There is a video of me driving it I believe. I have a build thread over on the Buggies Gone Wild forum. Search my my user name Jackel440

jackel440 Ok. How do you like it?

jackel440 And how hard is it to put in?

@@kerrydills3240 when I did the swap I had to fabricate a new motor mount plate that still utilized the factory rubber mounts. Also had to shorten the crankshaft and redrill and tap for threads. I had to buy a tapered sleeve adapter as I kept the factory clutch. Now you can buy the motor mount plate and all these parts in the aftermarket. VegasCarts has them I believe

jackel440 Ok. Thanks for the info.

Nope

Melanie Harris I've drove it a couple times with Dave. Good engine!

John C what would you like to know

jackel440 I'm looking to modify an older add on boiler to a gasification setup. How can I control the O2 supply to combust in the secondary? I would think you'd need an O2 sensor to properly control?

Is yours strictly ran off temps?

John C I'm not sure if an oxygen sensor would work or not. I'm not running any type of control on the secondary burn chamber. I had manual damper disk in the air box to control air flow to that chamber. I found the more air that it received the happier it was.

John C yes the system is controlled by water temperature.

rspringii I don't have a print of the wiring schematic I designed anymore. I think it got ruined at some point. the thermocouple I. the water tank is the only one that actually controls the furnace. I think I have a 10° drop before the controller kicks back on,but don't quote me on that as it's been too long since I checked the settings

Abby Wilson depends on what kind of cart your swapping this style engine into.I think club cars have the input shaft on the transmission on the other side,but I'm not positive. This is a Yamaha and I made a new motor cradle to mount it and then cut the crank down and use the adapter to use the factory tapered clutch on the straight crankshaft.

I reused the factory clutch and starter.I had to cut the crank down then Redhill and tap the end of the shaft.There is a special adapter that allows users of the factory clutch which is tapered.I forget were I purchased it but you should be able to Google it.Very common on the clone engine swaps

@@jackel440 do you still have to cut the crank down if you use the special adapter ?

@@OldSchoolLewis yes, you'll need to cut the crank. I drilled the crank to the depth needed,then cut the crank excess off. Then retapped it for the factory clutch retaining bolt

+roe williams Kohler used to be real good American made engines. I dont have any experience with the new horizontal Kohlers but my neighbor baught a Toro mower with a vertical Kohler. Only after a year out of know where the engine would not start. The carb got gummed up. We popped it off cleaned it and it was okay, but I found out this was a common issue with these Toro Kohler engines. But thats only one model. A fuel shut off valve stock would have helped. But it didnt happen after winter was over it was the middle of the summer. Occasionally Harbor Freight has sales on the predators, I know they knock another 30 bucks off each model which is nice. The one I put on my snowblower I have revving pretty high, a lot higher then when it came out of the store but still within the allowable adjustment. Its been working real hard and for a while but I cant say how long it will last. Will see.... If you need the engine right away, go with your gut get the engine you like, the kohler. If you can hold off wait until the next time the predotors go on sale try one of them for $330 get the extra 2 year warranty for 20 bucks $350 . I don't think you'll be disappointed. Of course a real Honda would be better but the price for a honda is so much higher. These Predator's were designed and built just like Honda's so there pretty tight engines. But good luck whichever way you decide to go.

Know its a little late, but get the predator with the warranty. When you start to close in on the 2, or 1 year, depending, just return it. They take it in and dont ask what is wrong. Not the best way, but you'll always have a new engine.

That is a good idea. However I didn't waste the money on it. One reason was because I baught it at the end of the winter in the beginning of 2015, February and it did not get any use until almost a year later in February 2016 on one large snow storm we had here in N.J. so the warranty was basically up already anyway before it got any real use, had I got the warranty. It performed very well that storm and is doing fine. The warranty would have passed already. They also keep modifying them and not always for the better. Plus its a bit of a pain to have to keep removing one and putting another one on, especially on a machine like a snowblower. If it was in use year round it would be worth doing it, however there is one thing I am not happy about. They made a few different versions of these engines, including the cali epa carb one, which is there lowest powered one, but they had one made that was a hemi. It had a hemispheric shaped head and that particular model was made by Loncin not rato like most of the other ones and they were supposedly a better style clone off the kawasaki, the ratos are a straight Honda clone. The over head valve cover on those hemi are aluminum rather then the plate metal, that is one way to identify the hemi model. They say the hemi version is the best one out there. Mine is a non hemi and was made by rato, like most. However they say the hemi predators are the one you want if your going to use them on mini bike or karts where they race them and do upgrades. Mine is being used in a stock application where no upgrades are being done and I'm getting plenty of power and great performance so I guess it doesn't really matter, although I would gave preferred to have the hemi because everyone says there better. One thing I do want to do is add a stator to the engine so I can power stuff, particularly a headlight that is one thing the machine really needs. But otherwise for 99 bucks I am very happy and you cant beat that price, there good little engine's.

***** yeah, They are good engines. Mine is on an air compressor that we use for sealcoating. Honda that was on it was looking a little beat up (muffler fell off, spark plug wire all messed up) so i just picked up the 5.5 hp one, and they are almost identical, bolted right up, and have no problems with it.

The load chamber is not lined with refractory. Just the lower gasification chamber tunnels are refractory. The controller is an industrial controller for a heat treating furnace.Way over kill for this.I just happen to be able to get these for the right price.They were old stock that was being discarded.

Inteks are usually US made Vangards are Made in Briggs plant in Japan,and are equal to a Honda. I have both 18HP Honda on Northstar Gen set and 20 Hp B/S on Ariens rider mower, bot have done excellant for four and five years.

Do you mean the charge coil