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BugeyeBob
United States
Registrace 8. 05. 2024
I’m on a mission to restore a 1958 Austin Healey Mark 1 Sprite, also known as a Bugeye Sprite. I really appreciate your checking out and supporting my channel.
My videos and other content will be available to members on Patreon first, www.patreon.com/BugeyeBob, with the content becoming available to Members on CZcams one week later and to CZcams subscribers and the public a few days to a week later. Please have patience, I'm new to this process.
As you will see in the early videos, the car is in pretty bad shape. However, with the “unique” (ugly?) look and design of the Bugeye Sprite, and since so few of them made it to the US, it is important that this Sprite be saved.
Please follow me on this adventure, spread the word, and join as a Patreon member for $5 a month to help defray the costs and move this restoration along faster at www.patreon.com/BugeyeBob.
And remember… It’s a dirty, thankless job… but somebody has to do it.
Thanks, Bugeye Bob…
My videos and other content will be available to members on Patreon first, www.patreon.com/BugeyeBob, with the content becoming available to Members on CZcams one week later and to CZcams subscribers and the public a few days to a week later. Please have patience, I'm new to this process.
As you will see in the early videos, the car is in pretty bad shape. However, with the “unique” (ugly?) look and design of the Bugeye Sprite, and since so few of them made it to the US, it is important that this Sprite be saved.
Please follow me on this adventure, spread the word, and join as a Patreon member for $5 a month to help defray the costs and move this restoration along faster at www.patreon.com/BugeyeBob.
And remember… It’s a dirty, thankless job… but somebody has to do it.
Thanks, Bugeye Bob…
BugeyeBob Episode 015 Drilling, Dashing, and Smashing, Part 1
When the screws won’t come out, the steering wheel is stuck, the dash can’t come out, and why rock hammers are not your thumb’s best friend.
Bugeye Bob Episode 015 is up on Patreon with early access for Patreon paying members on Friday, 8/30/24 at 4:00 PM. It will be released for public viewing on Patreon and CZcams on Monday, 9/2/24 at 4:00PM. Become a Patreon member for $5 a month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a classic 1958 British sports car. Patreon members get early access to videos and in the future will have access to live streams, Q&A sessions, as well as bonus or extended episodes, member names in credits, the ability to help pick topics for future videos, as well as other benefits in addition to helping make these videos possible.
Episodes are released for Patreon members on Fridays at 4 PM Central, and are released to the public on Patreon and CZcams on the following Monday at 4 PM.
Become a member and support this project at:
www.patreon.com/BugeyeBob
Follow it on Facebook at:
profile.php?id=61559352945217
Bugeye Bob Episode 015 is up on Patreon with early access for Patreon paying members on Friday, 8/30/24 at 4:00 PM. It will be released for public viewing on Patreon and CZcams on Monday, 9/2/24 at 4:00PM. Become a Patreon member for $5 a month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a classic 1958 British sports car. Patreon members get early access to videos and in the future will have access to live streams, Q&A sessions, as well as bonus or extended episodes, member names in credits, the ability to help pick topics for future videos, as well as other benefits in addition to helping make these videos possible.
Episodes are released for Patreon members on Fridays at 4 PM Central, and are released to the public on Patreon and CZcams on the following Monday at 4 PM.
Become a member and support this project at:
www.patreon.com/BugeyeBob
Follow it on Facebook at:
profile.php?id=61559352945217
zhlédnutí: 145
Video
BugeyeBob Episode 014 Unfillering, Unplugging, and Unintentionaling
zhlédnutí 118Před dnem
How to remove body filler, engine plugs (not the sparky kind), and what happens when you hit the paint with 2700 PSI of water, and why cheapest is not best. Bugeye Bob Episode 14 is up on Patreon with early access for Patreon paying members on Friday, 8/23/24 at 4:00 PM. It will be released for public viewing on Patreon and CZcams on Monday, 8/26/24 at 4:00PM. Become a Patreon member for $5 a m...
BugeyeBob Episode 013 Should We Throwout the Gearbox
zhlédnutí 180Před 14 dny
Water, oil, mud, and what on earth is that? And we find what might have caused the car to be parked permanently… Bugeye Bob Episode 13 is up on Patreon with early access for paid members. Become a Patreon member for $5 a month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a classic 1958 British sports car. Patreon members get early access to videos and in the future will have a...
BugeyeBob Episode 012 Carbs Can Be REALLY bad for you
zhlédnutí 148Před 21 dnem
The bad, really bad, and downright ugly of carburetors… Bugeye Bob Episode 12 is up on Patreon with early access for Patreon paying members on Friday, 8/9/24 at 4:00 PM. It will be released for public viewing on Patreon and CZcams on Monday, 8/12/24 at 4:00PM. Become a Patreon member for $5 a month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a classic 1958 British sports car....
BugeyeBob Episode 011 Must Be Off My Rocker
zhlédnutí 2,4KPřed měsícem
Time to tear down the head, and oh what a mess we find! Bugeye Bob Episode 11 is up on Patreon with early access for paid members. Become a Patreon member for $5 a month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a classic 1958 British sports car. Patreon members get early access to videos and in the future will have access to live streams, Q&A sessions, as well as bonus or ...
BugeyeBob Episode 010 - WHAT THE HELL CAUSED THIS?
zhlédnutí 388Před měsícem
Let’s finish off the engine tear down and… WHAT THE HELL CAUSED THIS? Bugeye Bob Episode 10 is up on Patreon with early access for paid members. Become a Patreon member for $5 a month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a classic 1958 British sports car. Patreon members get early access to videos and in the future will have access to live streams, Q&A sessions, as wel...
BugeyeBob Episode 009 Timing and the Lower End AKA: PUNCHING DOWN
zhlédnutí 219Před měsícem
Now that the engine is on the stand let’s start pulling that sucker apart Bugeye Bob Episode 9 is up on Patreon with early access for paid members. Become a Patreon member for $5 a month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a classic 1958 British sports car. Patreon members get early access to videos and in the future will have access to live streams, Q&A sessions, as ...
BugeyeBob Episode 008 - What an awful mess
zhlédnutí 451Před měsícem
Let’s put the Engine on a stand, drop the oil pan, and pull the head off... YUCK!!! Bugeye Bob Episode 8 is up on Patreon with early access for paid members. Become a Patreon member for $5 a month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a classic 1958 British sports car. Patreon members get early access to videos and in the future will have access to live streams, Q&A ses...
BugeyeBob Episode 007 - Those spinny whirly bits between the Engine and Transmission
zhlédnutí 691Před měsícem
More fun involving prybars, hammer, screw drivers, air impact wrench and a moderate amount of swearing… all to remove the clutch assembly, flywheel, and adapter plate. Bugeye Bob Episode 7 is up on Patreon with early access for paid members. Become a Patreon member for $5 a month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a classic 1958 British sports car. Patreon members ge...
BugeyeBob Episode 006 Removing Engine Accessories and Transmission
zhlédnutí 639Před 2 měsíci
Watch and laugh as I learn the hard way to “RTFM!!!” (Read the ‘Fine’ Manual) Bugeye Bob Episode 6 is up on Patreon with early access for paid members. Become a Patreon member for $5 a month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a classic 1958 British sports car. Patreon members get early access to videos and in the future will have access to live streams, Q&A sessions,...
BugeyeBob Episode 005 This DID hurt a bit - Removing the Engine and Transmission, Part 2
zhlédnutí 784Před 2 měsíci
Pulling the engine and tranny should be easy… you’ve got checklists to follow… right? Sure… easy… Checklist… yeah right… except the checklist doesn’t tell you everything. Bugeye Bob Episode 005 Part 2 is up on Patreon with early access for paid members. Become a Patreon member for less than cost of a cup of bad coffee each month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a c...
BugeyeBob Episode 005 Removing the Engine and Transmission Part 1
zhlédnutí 945Před 2 měsíci
Pulling the engine and tranny should be easy as pulling a tooth… right? Sure… easy… and it won’t hurt a bit… yeah right… Bugeye Bob Episode 005 is up on Patreon with early access for paid members. Become a Patreon member for less than cost of a cup of bad coffee each month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a classic 1958 British sports car. Patreon members get early...
BugeyeBob Episode 004 You call that a jack Changing the tire on a 1958 Bugeye Sprite
zhlédnutí 630Před 2 měsíci
Time to put the spare tire on your Bugeye Sprite. You reach in and pull out the jack and immediately think… “What the hell is this thing?” You stare at it wondering… “Do I risk car, life, and limb using this thing or look for something better?” Bugeye Bob Episode 004 is up on Patreon with early access for paid members. Become a Patreon for less than cost of a cup of mediocre coffee each month a...
BugeyeBob Episode 003 Traditional Skill for Fixing a Plana Strigare (flat tire)
zhlédnutí 638Před 3 měsíci
It’s 3:00 PM on Saturday in 1958. You’ve got a hot date tonight with that cute gal you want to impress with your fancy British sports car AND you’ve got a flat tire. You’ve managed to hunt down a tire, but the garages are all closed. What do you do? Change the tire yourself… by hand. Here’s how. Become a member on Patreon for less than cost of a mediocre cup of coffee each month, and support tu...
BugeyeBob Episode 002 Removing the floppy bits - Debridement
zhlédnutí 3,1KPřed 3 měsíci
Time to remove a few of the damaged and floppy bits that need surgery, but are in the way right now. Become a Patreon for less than cost of a cup of mediocre coffee each month and support turning 1400 pounds of rust, grease, and dirt into a classic 1958 British sports car. Become a member and support this project at: www.patreon.com/BugeyeBob Follow it on Facebook at: profile.php?i...
1400 POUNDS OF RUST, GREASE, AND DIRT... It's a dirty, thankless job, but somebody has to do it.
zhlédnutí 506Před 3 měsíci
1400 POUNDS OF RUST, GREASE, AND DIRT... It's a dirty, thankless job, but somebody has to do it.
And the saga continues! Bob I think you were right, a fiendish grin indeed😂
That thing is built like a chinese puzzle-box
It's certainly different to those of us used to Fords, Chevys, and Chrysler products. Thanks for commenting, and please subscribe if you haven't already.
Your dashboard seems to be in pretty good shape. The only extra hole (knob) is the one in between the turn signal switch and starter knob, outside of that it’s very original. I do see some of the perforated holes for the radio plate under the handle showing a bit, but that will disappear when you recover it, or you can weld those holes closed too. I re-did my dashboard a few months ago and I had 6 extra holes to weld to include the entire radio hole that was cut out. I wanted the factory look.
I was hoping my dash would still have the original writing on the back of it. Other's I've seen had the color written on in crayon. No such luck though. What did you use to cover your dash with? The original looks like black oil cloth, not even a true "leatherette." I've got a large chunk of black leather, but I'm not sure if it is big enough to do the whole dash. I also thought about putting a wood veneer on it.
I enjoy the music. The dashboard is held in my a screw in each end, one in the middle up underneath, and two metal brackets in the middle underneath. Those brackets are thin and small and a little pricey for what they are so if you can save them it might be worth it.
I'll toss the brackets in Evaporust, but I suspect they are toast. Since this car doesn't stand a snowball's chance in hell of ever being concourse quality I'll probably end up making new ones out of 14 gauge.
I think that steering wheel is beyond restoration!😂 Used ones are available though.. A lot of people put a smaller more modern one on.
"It'll buff out..." I'm hoping I can pick up a lot of stuff used. I think I'll stick with an original though. Without power steering the larger wheel helps out.
Good job on the music interludes!
Thanks. I'm slowly getting all the recording and editing issues figured out.
I don’t mind the music, better than some head banging stuff great show
Thanks. I try to grab music that compliments the action or chills out some of the franticness I felt trying to get things done. Sometimes I just come across a really great piece of music and want to share it.
Awesome video. You always need to think outside the box working on British "classics."
Thanks. I'm not sure where the "box" even is anymore. Please like, subscribe, and share if you haven't already.
Going to keep that heat gun filler removal trick in mind. Well at least not everything fought you tooth and nail this time! Looking forward to seeing you tackle the floor pans. I always thought it looked like the Sprites were smiling.
I think this one has more of a fiendish grin....
Well Bob, I think we can safely say that the transmission was even worse than all the gloop on the engine block! This Sprite seems out to torture you at every turn. Hope it gets better👍
More torture and pain coming in future episodes. I've got a plasma torch waiting to wreak revenge with though... and patience...
YUCK! You did a great job cleaning the outside of that thing considering the inside looks like it came off of the Titanic! Maybe, if you're lucky, the original owner will have stopped driving it because of the mis-set fork early enough that the internals aren't completely destroyed. and the water hasn't damaged it too much. As nasty as it is, I'd use something with a bit more petroleum volatiles to soak it in than diesel. Kerosene or maybe even a mix of kerosene and gasoline. Certainly cheaper than brake cleaner.
The outside was covered in so much black engine oil and dirt it looked like and scraped off like tar. I've cleaned it out and so far the inside parts look good except for some rust. I chose diesel because it was cheaper than kerosene and less flammable (higher flash point) than gasoline. The diesel does leave a thin film, but it's protecting the metal and not stinking up the garage so I can live with that. Definitely cheaper than brake cleaner! Thanks for commenting and please like, subscribe, and share if you haven't already.
@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne Oh, I've been subscribed for a few months. It's nice to watch someone else wrench on a greasy pile. The volatiles in kerosene and gasoline, while they do have a lower flashpoint and smell, are what actively will break down the grease/tar/goo. Brake cleaner is usually made of derivatives of naphtha, which is the base feedstock of gasoline. You can often find red dyed farm kerosene (or diesel) that's sold at a blocked pump which is cheaper than the regular road-taxed stuff.
I buy a couple of gallons of it twice a year to use for starting fires in the small pit we burn twigs and fallen limbs in. I get double duty out of it because I dirty it up cleaning car parts, pour it into a different container, then use that to start the fire. A lot cheaper than paying $6 a quart for charcoal lighter fluid.
I do believe it’s possible to use rib case transmission internal parts in the smooth case transmission you have. The rib case transmission parts will strengthen the transmission overall. Maybe something to think about for the rebuild. Thanks Bob
Definitely. Thanks, I'll keep that in mind!
Yah I have a ribcage in my bugeye with a 948. They seem to shift better. I believe you can't get parts anymore to rebuild smooth case gearboxes.
the geaarbox is pretty straight forward the beware of the detent balls from memory there is an issue with one of the manual (haynes?) regarding their proper location the second and third gear retainers are PIA
Thanks... I finished cleaning all the sections out with diesel Saturday. Saved all the bits that fell out, but was surprised to find there really wasn't any more bits and pieces of metal. Might be able to save the tranny after all. Thanks for commenting and please like and subscribe if you haven't already.
That throw out bearing is completely gone. There doesn’t appear to be any carbon left on it. It must have squealed like crazy on every shift if it worked at all😅.
Yup. Between the rockers clattering, the throwout bearing squealing, generator squealing, and various other things I found I'll be it really "impressed the girls." Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.
What you have there is a smooth case gearbox fitted to the Bugeye and newer Sprites up to about 1965. Newer Sprites and MG midgets were fitted with a newer version called the rib case box. It is more robust and is a direct replacement for the smooth case box. There is no point in rebuilding the smooth case box if it is bad, just get a rib case box to replace it. Unfortunately the rib case also has no synchro on first gear.
I don't plan on driving it much, if I did I'd probably do as others have and pop in either a Nissan or Ford 5 speed. Money is tight, so if I can rebuild it cheap enough I'll probably go that route. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.
@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne understood but make sure you can source the parts you may need as some are no longer available unlike the rib case.
and it has some common parts with the morris minor
The background music implementation is much better now Bob, thanks for that.
Great to hear. I've still got to work on speaking loud and clear enough. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.
There is a trick to the down [and up] shifting and it has to do with getting the revs just right. I got pretty good at listening to the engine revs and shifting up and down without using the clutch. Very seldom was there a grinding noise. Then I got married and the little woman had to have an automatic transmission, and from then on life has been a disappointment 😥
I used that no clutch shifting technique when I rode my last motorcycle. I know the really old timers used to "Double clutch" on transmission back before they were synchronized. I suspect with thick enough gear oil this process would get the gears to match speed quicker and make shifts less noisy. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.
@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne Not wanting to accept the title of 'old timer' I would double clutch a friend's MGA first to second and vise versa. He had no idea about it and always started in second. Fastest way to burn out a clutch. Just makes you want to weep.
Being diabetic, I really got a laugh over the carbs are bad for you! Keep on wrenching, It has to get easier at some point?
Diabetic myself, glad you caught that. I'm still in the "What the hell did I get myself into phase" as the next video will show. Once I everything torn apart and can start the rebuild process it may not be easier, but it will be more fun. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.
I have a MG Midget and a MGB. I feel your pain. Keep the videos coming!
The saving grace on this car is that it shared a lot of components with the MG Midget and other cars. That at least makes some of them fairly easy to get and not outrageously expensive. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.
The worst part about this, is the Limeys will defend such a byzantine, unserviceable pile of fail and suck as "fine British engineering" without a hint of irony.
I do appreciate your self deprecation. I'm very sorry the SU carbs turned out to be duds. Heart breaking.
Fortunately I've learned over the years to laugh at myself and the stupid things I do. Takes the sting out of the Iodine. As for the carbs, kind of what I expected when I bought the car. This is kind of a "worst case" scenario project. Thanks for commenting and please subscribe if you haven't already.
Frog Eye cool little sports car. One point Bob please please cut this background music off.
It's a tough call on the music. Some people like the background music, some dislike it because of my choices in music, and a couple of people have mentioned having problems hearing narration over the background. I try to keep it subtle except for where the video has silence or the footage is speed up. The audio in the sped up footage can be extremely irritating and most people prefer it there. I'm still learning the editing software packages I use (Premiere Pro & Camtasia) so the videos will get better in the future as I learn how to tweak the settings.
you are looking at 2 known weak points in this engine 1) the rockershafts wear - as you point out lack of oil changes and adjustment 2) i think (but cant tell for sure) you have alloy rocker posts these do not stand up well over time - later engines went to steel posts - also i think you have later cooper s type (forged) rocker arms the originals should be pressed steel - if the posts are steel and the rockers are forged some one has played with this engine before
Hmmm... Now I'm confused. The articles I've read said the rockers started out as forged but were switched in later years to press steel because the pressed steel was cheaper to make than forgings.. As for the rocker posts themselves, definitely alloy/aluminum/pot metal, but they have pressed in bearings. The weird part to me is the rocker shaft itself shows far more wear than the rocker towers/posts... Can't remember if I did an internal diameter check on the tower bearing surfaces... I'll have to check that out. Thanks for commenting, and please subscribe if you haven't already.
@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne early engines with forged arms - its possible ive only ever seen pressed steel on the engines ive seen and forged on cooper engines in any event the forged arms are the ones to have (unless you want to go exotic) - if you can find a set of steel towers i'd use those the rocker shaft is fixed so there should be no wear in the towers i cant remember if there is an insert in there originally its been a long long time since i looked at an early engine
Thanks for the info. I'll have to double check the towers. I might be wrong but I thought they had pressed in bearings. I might have to get a whole different engine considering what this one has been through.
@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne do you have david vizards book "tuning the a series engine" that has lots of info - the block will take a pretty fair over bore (0.125?) -as far as i recall 1050 cc is possible using 998 pistons 998 pistons are available from Graham Russell Engineering prices in Aust dollars there are other sources Graham is the guru supplying some of the racing crews in the US and UK the rest is common to minis so mini spares or any of them can supply the only major issue to look for is cracks in the head and block
@@user-gl5kj1fm5x Thanks, I'll have to check out that book. I've got to get the block to a engine machine shop to see if it can be bored out or has to be sleeved. I suspect at least one cylinder will be a sleeve job so probably all of them. I've got several sources here in the US for engine parts It's going to be a while before I start worrying about the engine though, I'm still in the "tear the car apart" stage. Transmission is next.
Not wanting to getting into an argument with others but I don't mind the music accompaniment. Not too loud and rather innocuous. Are you planning on having the head and block machined, and new sleeves?
Thanks for the feedback and please subscribe if you haven't already. Not sure what I'm going to do with the engine just yet. All depends on cost to repair versus finances. If I was rich I'd be tempted to drop some monster engine in it. Perhaps something like this... czcams.com/video/Z4WcDXftxKk/video.html
Ummm...NO! I'll unsubscribe if you do!🤨
No worries... I'm doing all this on my social security so unless I hit the lottery there is no way in hell I'll have the money for the Hemi... And if I hit the lottery I definitely wouldn't do it.
Yep, a hardened shaft and the file would just skate across the surface.
Yeah... I suspect this shaft either wasn't hardened. I'll bet the engine was noisy as all hell while it was running.
So Bob, how many hours in real time did it take you to disassemble the head. It fought you tooth and nail the whole time! Keep on wrenching👍
I had 1 hour and 45 minutes of recording, but I didn't record part of it at the start, so I'm guess 2 to 2 1/2 hours total. Thanks for the comment and please subscribe if you haven't already.
Good video but the music is very annoying.
Thanks for the feedback. I try to mix it up in every video while keeping it subtle in the background. Is it the music I choose you don't like, or just the fact that I put in the background music?
@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne I'm hearing impaired. Music is fine, talking is fine, but both together make it hard to follow what you are saying.
@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne The music is unnecessary and distracting, plus not to everyone’s taste. Some intro music at the beginning and some at the end is all you need. Perhaps too when you are doing some fast forward sections when you are not commenting on the procedures. My thoughts but keep going you are doing a good job.
@@garethgoodchild2643 Thanks for the feed back. I've been using it throughout because of the fast forwards, and sections where I'm not narrating which happens quite a bit throughout the videos. Sometimes I use it to cover up hammering and other repetitive noise. The final edit software I use has an AI function in it to accentuate narration over other audio, maybe I need to tweek that setting a bit to push the music down more during narration.
@@ansomeBob The software I use for final editing has an AI feature that is supposed to push the music volume down during narration. I'll try tweeking that setting on future videos. I also need to speak more clearly at times. I occasionally start mumbling when things are going slightly bad, but not bad enough to make me start swearing...
I don't know about the 'A' series engines. Do you think that the two missing bearings are deliberately missing, or simply a quality control oversight during manufacture? P.S. love the salty language! Re minds me of ...me😊
I've talked to people at a couple of places online that specialize in these engines and they both said they were all built this way. One place does carry press-in bearings for the other to positions in the block though. Not sure if they require grinding the camshaft down to fit the bearings though. Thanks for commenting, and please subscribe if you haven't already.
Bob - suggestion take a trip to a metal scrap yard and find some 3/8 plate about 6 ins square or there abouts and some pipe the size of the id of the top of the engine stand (a nice sliding fit is good) drill the plate to bolt up to the oil filter bosses weld the pipe to the plate and you can then mount the engine on the stand at 90 deg to its current configuration it solves the issue of mounting on the rear engine plate with all the problems that go with that
Good recommendation, especially given how light the complete engine actually is compared to other engines. Next stopping point for the engine is going to be a good machine shop that specializes in engines to see if this block is even worth using. Thanks for commenting, and please subscribe if you haven't already.
Well Bob,sometimes you need to resort to brute force and ignorance to get the job done. Looking forward to the next installment 👍
At 72 I'm having to figure out ways to use less brute force, but ignorance I have plenty of! Thanks for commenting, and please subscribe if you haven't already.
Bob there is a old bugeye sprite on face book for 2000 has some rust in spots not really holes needs a new top as well
Must be outside of my area. However, I suspect I better not pick up another one right now, just to "ensure domestic tranquility." Thanks for watching and commenting. Please subscribe if you haven't already.
@@BugeyeBob-zt6ne its all there too
It should be fun putting it back together. At least it will be much cleaner!
I'm not quite sure where "fun" ends and "masochism" begins with this one... Thanks for commenting. Please subscribe if you haven't already!
Hi Bob, what’s more annoying the copious amount of goo, or all the locking tabs hidden beneath them? That was a very substantial adjustable spanner! Looking forward to the next installment. Hope those pistons free up👍
The goo... definitely the goo. Once you've figured out how to deal with one locking tab you are pretty much set for all of them. The goo just seemed to keep showing up over and over. Thanks for watching and commenting! Please subscribe if you haven't already.
Aah! The results of the car's maintenance over the years. I believe I would do exactly is I did in he 60s, when I was spending my spare time on cars and girls! Finish taking down the block, pulling out the bearing shells and re-installing the caps after removing the crank. Pull the head studs, try to knock out the visible crap plugging the water passages, then knock out the core plugs. Hammer the pistons out, using your favorite BMFH and a hunk of hardwood. Strip the head likewise, then take both to the machine shop of your choice to be hot tanked, later to have the cylinders bored to a standard oversize, and new pistons and rings fitted. You will probably want to check the deck of the block, and the head for flatness. A good machine shop can do wonders for you. You'll need new cam bearings installed after boiling out the block, as the caustic solution they use attacks everything but iron or steel! Parts for the Sprite should be readily available, as they made a zillion of them, and they are getting more and more popular. I had a co-worker who had one back then, and he loved it greatly. I can't give you and brand particular advice, as I was chest deep into Studebakers at the time!
Just wrapped up a future video showing the final teardown of the engine. Only 1 cam bearing in the block. Researched this with a couple of places on the web that rebuild the engine and they both said "Yup, that's the way the came from the factory.
Using the absorbent stuff is a great idea😊.
This absorbent is actually shredded compressed wood like they make pellet stove fuel from. Probably just the floor sweepings. I've found actual pellets in it. It absorbs oil into it unlike the clay/kitty litter "absorbents" they sell. Those soak up water, but oil just sticks to the outside of the clay. It is also less dusty with a woody smell.
You could say that was just a little smarmy, you never know there could still be hope👍
I'm an optimist. Have to be to take on a mess like this one!
Seen a few engine's like that threw the years. Cleaning all the parts with a pressure washer was a fun time. A old rain suit is in order when you do that! Never know until you get it cleaned and inspected!! Hope it can be salvaged!!
No pressure washer for this, I'm cleaning everything including the block in a parts washer using ZEP Heavy Duty Citrus Degreaser (made for restaurants, but works great on this also. Not sponsored, and expensive at about $13 a gallon. I'm buying it in 3 gallon jugs and using it full strength. No nasty smell, doesn't mess up my lungs like the last stuff did, and it's safe enough that I can dip my hands in it and not worry about chemical burns. And when it can't strip grease good anymore I can put back in the original jugs and dispose of it in the trash since it is biodegradable.
Bleccchh. I'm glad CZcams doesn't have Smell-o-vision. I've heard the Limeys chromed a lot of their cylinders. I wouldn't write the block off quite yet.
You definitely didn't want to smell this. The engine in this definitely didn't have chromed cylinders. I think they are too far gone to get them over-bored, but I've been told I can get them sleeved. Not sure what I'm going to do yet.
If you get rid of the top you won't need a rear window. Sports cars don't have tops anyway. That's what makes them sporty.
The tops probably worth more than the car right now, but that will change...
It's a cream puff!!
Just need to buff it out...😂
I think you'd get a lot more views without that intro.
Thanks for the feedback. I've been thinking about that also. It worked great for the very first video, and was pretty good for the second one also, but I think its time to make a few changes. I've picked up better cameras and I just learned some things that will make editing a lot faster which will give me more time to improve the channel.
I really enjoy the commentary. I've been there working on a MGB. Keep the videos coming!
I'm trying to keep the videos as real as possible. It seems like a lot of restoration videos make it all look so neat and easy.
That flywheel came of with less torture than expected 🤔
Surprised me also. I expected to have to beat the thing off.
I enjoy your videos, keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do!
Sounds like you are next to a NAS. Navy man?
No. Almost 11 years USAF. And you are correct, I am very close to NAS. Really cool because I get to have the Blue Angels fly over my house on a regular basis...
The thing about British engines is, if there isn't oil under them, there's no oil in them.
I've had a few US vehicles that were that way. I had a 1965 Jeep that kept blowing oil out the breather tube into the oil bath air cleaner. I finally just set it up to drain back into a 2 gallon can and just poured it back in the crank case every few days.
I love the content! But, (and I don't wanna be "that guy") the first person camera work is making me sea-sick, The shots taken from the tripod are much easier to watch.
Sometimes feedback from "that guy" is very helpful. Since the tripod shots sometimes miss exactly what I'm seeing and doing I've tried using a chest mounted Gopro to catch the detail. I've learned that it works OK provided I'm sitting/standing still but is not so good if I'm moving around. I've picked up a couple of better cameras and learned a few things so things will get better, I promise.
I've discovered when removing 45 year old tires, it's far quicker to break the bead loose, cut the bead wire with bolt cutters and then take a sawzall with a metal cutting blade to the carcass of the tire. I'm too damn fat and old to Fu... umm. mess around with tire spoons and stuff on tires that are going straight in the trash anyway.
Your way is definitely quicker and easier. I'm 270 lbs and 72 years old so I definitely understand where you are coming from...
Hey Bob, these are a little before my time, I’m surprised the fasteners aren’t British Imperial Standard. Thanks for bringing us along for the ride. Looking forward to the progress 👍
The more I work on the more I'm finding a "variety" of fasteners. At least 3 or 4 Whitworth, most probably are BIS, but I've also come across a few SAE, and even a wood screws that were used to attach the cloth door straps to the inside of the A pillars. The wood screws were of two different sizes and types, so I suspect at least some of them were original to the car. As I understand it the major difference between BIS and SAE are how the pitch of the threads are cut.
Guess you could say you’re giving your spanners a work out! Talk about shoehorned in🤔
Tight, but not as bad as some American cars I've worked on. Thanks for watching and commenting!