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@@patriotu.s.elections7879 Thanks for watching! :)

@@ammankalyan7460 I bought from local eshop. There is no specific part number for gasket as BMW doesnt sell them separately, but if you search for for the whole pan, you can find sellers who sell gasket only. The PN is 28107842385

@@prowled thanks for watching! The parts were actually really cheap, for all the arms and bushings I paid just about 100€, so trying to remove the bushings would be a lot more work then simply replacing :) The paint I used is some 3 in 1 which includes rust inhibitors, primer and paint. I’m sure there are better options out there, but this is what I had locally available :)

@@AlfisGarage I absolutely can relate to the time issue of renovating parts. As some people say "my time is valuable". And yeah, the best paint is the one you have in your hands. What you did was better than doing nothing, and it is by no means a bad thing since it isn't a part that heats up like the brake calipers.

@@TheRealEvo Thank you very much! :) F06 M6 is a beautiful car! I couldn’t find one over here for reasonable price when I was looking for mine, so I settled with the M5

@@michaelphillips5014 yeah now I know I should have just pryied it down right away:) btw, when I removed the drive shaft bolt, the shaft didn’t want to move, seem it was stuck

Tap it with a bar​@@AlfisGarage

@@Morteexx yes, the flat part of the strut bearing is facing to the engine :) I don’t know what you mean with the bmw part - i guess you mean the joint removal tool? The issue there was that it has narrower opening for the joint, so that is why I couldn’t put it on properly. I used spray from Liqui moly for rusty bolts :)

@@MarcoAspaas if interested, watch my follow up video, where among others I answer this question too :) czcams.com/video/XTJm9Wge5FI/video.htmlsi=MJ_IwS_mhkRjnRGK

@@bmw_5_bmw_5_44 Hi, no I can’t because that’s the one I now covered with this alcantara :) I have spare piano black, but want to keep that too in case I decide to go back to that.

@@AlfisGarage Alright, if you decide to take off the alcantara and sell please reach out to me. I am looking for that kinde of interior trim. Thanks

@@RAINEN Thank you for watching! :)

That is interesting - i understand what you mean and you could be right, but then I think the grub screw should have a flat bottom and also there should be some loctite, so that grub screw doesn’t back out

If the grub screw isn't tight it will probably fall out unless you loctitie it in. It doesn't really matter either way. It is a cheap Chinese design with no inner bearing bushes. If the grub screw is tight, it just means the pin is stationary in relation to the two outer holes and rotates in the centre hole. All the wear will be in the centre of the pin or the centre hole. If it is loose, the pin will be allowed to rotate in all three holes, sharing the wear. These are really only designed for domestic use with low cycles compared to a shop lift. You will wear out before the pins or holes will, which is why they don't bother to install grease fittings. As the pins are a sliding fit to the holes, most of the grease was pushed out when you refitted the pins.

@@ricbarker4829 yeah, you’re probably right

@@frederic4162 Thanks for watching!

@@KJs581 exactly! It should have come like this :)

@@diyhell8712 🤣

Fair enough - I’m lowering the music volume - it sounds OK on my studio speakers, but I guess it may be still loud on other systems. I don’t want to cut the music fully, but will lower the volume even more 👍

I’m usually lowering the music volume when talking - sorry if you can’t understand. I suppose it may be still loud on some speakers 🤷🏻‍♂️

Thanks! I bought some iron remover so I’ll try with that next time. Never used clay before, but I’ll order some and try with that too! 🙂

@@AlfisGarage I was going to say an iron remover may be your best bet as alot of that is probably brake dust particles imbedded into the wheels themselves

@@burnette214 Thanks, that was my thinking too. I didn’t get to remove the wheels since then, but I’ll surely try it once I’ll do :)

Sure! I just uploaded it to Thingiverse and added the link to the description. Good luck building!

@@AlfisGarage thanks I really appreciate it.

Thanks man! I didn’t get to do that one yet 😵‍💫

Thanks for watching. I never had the Quickjack and I think it is practical how portable it is, but this seems definitely stronger. 👍

The issue was that the hydraulics and cables were coming out between the two parking spots in the garage. I wanted them to come out at the wall side of the lift :)

Thanks for feedback!

Thanks for watching! :)

Certainly that would be possible too, but then you also need to remove the brake caliper. But then with spring compressor, it is easier to assemble it off the car. Good luck! 👍

FYI, there are many universal ball joint removers, which work similarly like the one which I have, but they are slightly bigger and probably would fit better. I have just the one I’ve shown on video, but that was a bit too small for this particular ball joint.

There is a screw/valve on the hydraulic pump that you either loosen or tighten to change how quickly the fluid flows. There is only 1 setting with or without load. If you set it slower while there is a load, it will be REALLY slow if there is no load.

In my case, when the car is on the lift and I want to lower it, it can be said that the car is falling and not lowering, I don't know where to look for the reason. Poland

@@seweryndymkowski5085 that was same for me :D look at my video at 5:50 you can see two “ screws” at the side of the pump - the black is a fitting for hydraulic - and behind it the silver screw is the valve. You need to tighten it a little bit - then test it.

I have one more question is there a sensor to make the lift slow down more before the end of lowering?

@@seweryndymkowski5085 no there is no such sensor and its not possible to do something like that on simple one way pumps like this.

Watch my follow up video where I explain turning it around was not a solution for me 👍

Thanks for watching, I’m glad it helped! :)

Thanks for watching! Yes you could surely design it with caster wheels that will rotate 360 degrees :)

I’m in Slovakia mate.

Thanks for watching! 😀

Thanks for watching and for feedback 👍

He really don't care. Doing the same in next videos. Try to tell us something with music (most annoying one) in background. Will answer You only "Thanks for watching and for feedback"

Above all comfortable! 🤣

It depends, I didn’t do any irreversible changes, so I could put it back as it was + I didn’t do anything to any of the components or mechanics.

Not that easy, because the lift has a front and rear side and the front is capable for more weight. Since most cars are front heavy, the car front needs to be at the front of the lift. I’m actually surprised how many people have raised this question. I’ll do a follow up video where I’ll try to explain.

There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)

That is correct, but the lift has front side which should be at the front of the car due to fact that most cars are front heavy. If I would turn it around I would have to reverse onto the lift. I’ll do a follow up video because the question was raised many times :)

Well most 2 post lifts that I’ve seen were about 2.8m tall so they would barely fit - but I wouldn’t be able to raise the car much higher anyway - when I raise my M5 to 1 meter with this I have about 30cm left 👍

I bought it from: www.mantech.sk/noznicovy-zdvihak-kpn-3500-elektromagneticke-zapadky-bez-potreby-kompresora/

Hi there. I can’t give you any links, I can only tell you “google it”. BMW diagnostics and coding is a big topic on its own - I can recommend a channel called BimmerDoc (@BimDoc)- the guy is very knowledgeable and can explain things very vell.

The lift has a front side and the front of the car should be at the front of the lift due to weight distribution.

Thanks for feedback. Any suggestion what to replace/ how to make it better?

In fact you don't know nothing about scissors lift

Not a stupid question at all!. There is actually a front side of the lift - the legs are moving towards the front when it is raising and the car front is usually heavier so it should be at front. I’ll do a follow up and will try to explain, as many people raised the question :)

I fully agree 👍

I wish it would be that easy :) The lift has its front and back side - the way how the legs move, the front can handle more weight and that is why the front of the car should be on the front side of the lift. If I would turn it around, I would have to reverse onto the lift. BTW - it may seem a bigger struggle than it was, but I swapped the lines and cables in about an hour and half... and that was with filming.