Video

@@gamerscubeixxi2152 if you put bronze in there , definitely pull valve cover and replace with the 8620 set !

@@KidKevi I bought the upgraded steel trunnion set from AMS racing. Plus I replacing with new rods. It’s a fairly new tick so hopefully I didn’t do a ton of damage

@@OdeeOnAmmo you will definitely find out as you put it in and move along , definitely will need a v8 k member !!!

@@KidKevi I do have that already

You have the main items then man !

@@KidKevi yea just need a z28 guage cluster & radiator. i’m guessing i need to change the driveshaft n diff

@@OdeeOnAmmo I ran a v6 driveshaft , still running factory diff with one tire fire lol ! But I went v8 fuel pump , and radiator , also SLP Lid

@@anthonyrawles1154 Yukon LsD unit with 4.10 gears

@@athinelongatedgoblin9411 the pcm input wires must be pinned into the computer and the proper output wires must be running to the gauge !

I’m putting the purple wire (C230) to the serial class data I currently have the coolant tach and speedo and battery just can’t figure out the fuel gauge

And it doesn’t work connecting the purple wire to the class 2 data so I’m really confused do you happen to know from under the hood on the 3 main connectors what color is the wire for the fuel gauge ?

@@athinelongatedgoblin9411 the fuel gauge on a standalone has to be pinned for inputs and outputs , and then wired directly to gauges and fuel tank , the v6 car doesn’t have the same signal wire for the fuel gauge in the plugs under the dash , on my car anyways. Usually a standalone doesn’t have the input or outputs pinned to the pcm so you have to add them And manually run the wiring through the car !

50/50 shot the class 2 will send it once the inputs and outputs have been added correctly , it should !

Lkq Online if you want a warranty

I suggest not using bronze at all , any brand. I would suggest using the 8620 caged style and that’s it !

​@@KidKeviafter seeing the review on the Michigan Motorsports bronze bushings, I'm going with the GM Original Rockers for LS 1, 6, 2, 3 for now then later take the bronze bushings out of the other rockers and put in btr v2 tk002 bearings.

Around 7500 to get it driving but missing a lot of good things 10K for a sweet ass camaro 👍🏼🤙🏼🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

@@KidKevi i figured it would be 10k. Thanks bro

@@titusdixon2758 it is , but you have a brand new car with brand new everything, also happens to be a LS race car haha !

You will connect the class 2 data wire from the obd2 plug , I tied into mine so my factory obd2 port works along with my standalone , the same wire powers a few gauges , including the ones you’re referring to !

I connected mine near the passenger side kick panel , be sure to tie it in going the right direction , it will send the proper signals to get a lot of stuff working in the car !

So like one wire from my old obd port gets spliced into my new obd port from my standalone harness Also would you know the color wire on the old OBD ? Thanks for the help

@@athinelongatedgoblin9411 No , you wire the class 2 serial data wire from your standalone obd2 port , to the green class 2 serial data wire down on the passenger floor board , connect it going towards the driver side and that will power your factory obd2 port and gauges

@@athinelongatedgoblin9411 the wire you tie into , in the car will be Pin K in connector c230( Blu ) on passenger kick panel

I apologize ! My grandfather is 70 and has been welding for 53 years , as long as it holds on Red is all that matters to me , and it’s held ever since 4 years later 👍🏼

@@KidKevi no disrepect. Just being cheeky. Good on gramps!!!

@@xxsic68camaroxx yes he was recovering from Covid and still on oxygen whenever he tigged that lol !

I ran the check valve inline with the hoses to the port just to be safe , probably don’t have to but I did anyways

From my understanding the 98 cars had slight variations in certain areas , mainly the gauges When you buy a harness it is most likely going to be a 99-02 version , although what I’ve heard and read could be false man , I haven’t swapped a ‘98 car so I can’t give you a definitive answer. Either way I would approach it how I did mine !

Just in time !

@@KidKevi absolutely. Thanks again. Ordered a BTR v2 needle bearing kit. After measuring the prw modified trunnions & bushings, gonna pick up a set of BTR replacement needle bearings (sn105) & clips. Then run them in 5.3 I have.

Huh ?

@KidKevi sorry. How long does it takes to plug in all the wiring?

@@Chewie374 As long as it takes you based on your skill level man , not really a set time due to the fact each cad will have its own querks, issues etc !

Short answer is yes , pcm wil have to be unlocked for use. If a different intake is used than what is factory for that pcm then yes , if the air breather is any different then yes , if the exhaust is not identical to factory then yes , any changes from factory completely change a tune file !

@@KidKevi could that be a reason I’m having transmission issues? (Only reverse and 3rd engage) or would I need to throw my other 4l60 in it to see if it spins all gears?

@@B1G_Dubb5 I can’t guarantee you it’s a tune issue , it sounds mechanical or internal to that transmission

Easy access to the pump for the Win!!!!! 🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁

It definitely isn’t easy , if it was easy everybody would do it !

A rocker will only wiggle at 0 lash , whenever you check pushrod length you go through this process man , always be sure to double check length in any engine build

@@KidKeviI'm a little lost then. I have an LS3 making some valvetrain noise and I've never done this before. This weekend I'll have the valve covers off to replace the gasket and while they are off, I want to inspect the rockers and springs. Basically anything I can see without taking anything apart. Do you have any recommendations or materials I can read to get a better idea of what to look for and how to look for it?

Following just in case he comments with the answers

@@dudeman0248 what answers ?

@@KidKevi what was the problem oh the video was it rod knock or lifters

I’ve bounced 7k a few times since then , no issues thus far !

Not really sure but it drove me crazy because I could tell she was hurting !

2 months and 29 days is the amount it took to get it driving , was it finished , no. That figure is about 70% of the weeks time devoted to the car , I had a life during the process. I spent most of it working on that car tho ! lol

It was in very bad shape when I got it, sat in a field for 5-6 years and wiring was completely destroyed , interior was trashed and entire suspension was shot ! Ole V6 car lol

@@KidKevi for starters, i appreciate the response! i’m looking to do the same to mine and. i traded a c4 in crappy condition for my 2002 35th anniversary camaro with the 5-speed. i love the car but the ls is what i really want. since mine falls into 99-02 is everything pretty much plug and play? and also what was the total cost of the swap after getting it on the road?

@@Dbo9078 my videos will be a great resource for your swap , in total I believe it took $7,000.00,to take the roller with trashed wiring , trashed V6 suspension and then build my 4.8 block from the ground up to what it is now , also purchased a built 4l60e for around 1300 in all. In total now I have about 10k in it and it’s super nice and reliable , build should last a lifetime. I still lack posi rear end the nice upgraded suspension goodies ( Besides Koni sport shocks and umi lowering springs , I already have that on the car.)

Only thing that’s necessary is proper mounting locations for the motor mounts on the Ls, I ended up picking up a BMR k member out of a burned down race car, I used the factory 4l60e crossmember and even the stock v6 4l60e driveshaft , I put it together like a z28 !

Yes

If it’s only 2nd and it’s a 4l60e 👍🏼 good luck

It’s only a winter beater with a heater so I could care less it only slips once it’s warmed up when it’s cold first driving it doesn’t slip I don’t care enough to fix it as it’ll either be parked during summer til next winter or junked parted out motor only has 140k on it trans and truck has 260k

@@coreymarkoff444 it is only a 30$ part so to me , a 30$ fix to have a solid trans that may last thousands of miles is great !

Where do I get the oring kit?

I’m lucky it wasn’t

Yes you have to torque them in a specific manner , always follow the GM engineers procedures

It is a TSP 212/218 | .550/.550 | 112 LSA A real mild cam !

Glad to have helped in some way !

What are you referring to ?

Are the v6 frames like the ss frames

Meaning are the v6s like from factory there frame boxed or there not boxed

Like is there a difference like the older f body’s from the 70s where if you didn’t have a v8 car you would have to box them for the higher horsepower v8s

Like I’m just asking because I’m thinking of getting one like what you have done and doing the same thing just with like a ls3 and something of that nature

V8 K member

You want a good clean cross hatch all the way down the cylinder , each one may vary. It’s important to measure the full length of the bore before you begin. This particular hone in the video was set to the lightest pressure possible via the spring. The goal is a good clean cross hatch the full length of the cylinder , without taking the bores oversize. As for the water jackets , Vat at a machine shop is best bet in my opinion

Ls swap it 👍🏼🏁🏁🏁

Good thing man !

I’m not sure man , I’ve picked up a full size truck but not a 3/4 ton yet

As soon as it starts I hear it.

Do they have a brass bushing trunnion kit ?

@@KidKevi man I’m not sure I’m not finding anything that says there is or isn’t

@@dawson_performance well why don’t you pull the valve cover and check ?

@@KidKevi when I make it home I will. And will give update Been at the hospital since yesterday

Like dead serious if the price is right I’ll pay

@@dallasabbott8112 can shoot an email over to EPTOKC@gmail.com for a quote , in the email be sure to list what vehicle you would like to have swapped , and also any parts you may have for the swap already

I believe there are issues in the vehicles wiring between 98 to 99 . I am assuming , ( cannot verify ) that 99-02 should be similar !

Research 1998-02 Gm ls standalone harness dbc on eBay , the one I ordered is for an F body specifically

Seen one that says 98-03 but nothing about being f body specific

@@stephengeter5898 doesn’t really matter , you can just wire it to match that standalone

Ok cool 😎

I had ordered and used this kit www.michiganmotorsports.com/ls-rocker-arms-trunion-kits/ls1-rocker-arm-with-upgraded-trunions-installed-and-support-stands-fits-4-8-5-3-5-7-6-0-ls2-ls6-lq4-lq9-ly5-lm7-l33/ I decided to order an entire set due to multiple rockers being toasted

Yes that’s what I did in the video , although I used a 2000 trans am computer. Same concept regardless of pcm , pinouts could just vary slightly

@@KidKevi okay awesome! Your video is a life saver and the PDFs, love! Thank you!

Definitely go with an encapsulated needle bearing kit , the bronze bushings are garbage man !

@@KidKevi yep apparently so. I have gold glitter in my oil so obviously the brass trunnions are already wearing down. I’m pretty sure the BTR v2 kit is a needle bearing kit. Idk if my lateral movement is normal or not and it’s on several rockers but the ticking noise I have is only on cylinder 1. Makes no sense at all!

@@bwill03z76 key word is bushing vs bearing , the rockers eat the soft bushings ha ! Understandably so , I guess it was a good concept but in real world high performance engines it doesn’t take the cake 👎🏼

Get a pushrod length checking tool and measure for correct pushrod length.

@@wally7856 yes , every engine , no matter what

Tsp stage 2 - 212/218 x .550/.550 lift Baby cam haha !

52.1” with my 25% underdrive pulley from summit I have on it now , can’t remember what it was with the factory harmonic dampener. I believe it may have been 3 inches longer but can’t guarantee it. That is with no ac or power steering pump

Sounds more like piston slap to me , this rocker tick didn’t go away with temperature. Can always pull the valve cover and check !

@@KidKevi will do thank you

@@JoseGomez-fy4sh also that noise could be due to an exhaust leak that seals up once things heat up and expand

@@KidKevi thanks for the info I’ll have it checked out

@@JoseGomez-fy4sh Did you ever find the cause? I have a similar sound exactly as you describe in my LS3 C6.

Speed Engineering True Dual X Pipe exhaust with the Axle dump , 1 3/4” long tubes