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JeffyC R3
United States
Registrace 1. 03. 2020
My name's Jeff. I'm from Brooklyn, NY. I like cars, motorcycles, and fixing things.
Currently in the stable:
White & Red 2016 Yamaha YZF-R3
*** Some of the links below my videos are affiliate links, which means that if you use those links to purchase a product, I’ll receive a small commission. If you find the videos helpful, please consider using the links to support the channel! ***
Currently in the stable:
White & Red 2016 Yamaha YZF-R3
*** Some of the links below my videos are affiliate links, which means that if you use those links to purchase a product, I’ll receive a small commission. If you find the videos helpful, please consider using the links to support the channel! ***
Yamaha R3 Oil and Filter Change (All Model Years)
This quick video will show you exactly how to do an oil change on a Yamaha R3. This video applies to all model years (2015 - 2020) of the Yamaha R3. The engines in the 1st and 2nd generation R3 are exactly the same.
**Note*** You do NOT have to remove the fairings to change the oil and oil filter. Removing the fairings will provide easier access to the filter and drain plug, but it is not completely necessary to remove the fairings unless the filter or plug are stuck and you need better access to work.
Important Specs:
Oil Type: 10W-40
Oil Brand Used: Yamalube
Oil Capacity: 2.5 Quarts with filter change (1.9 quarts without filter change)
Drain Plug Size: 12mm
Drain Plug Torque: 14 lb-ft
K&N Replacement Oil Filter: KN-204
K&N Oil Filter Socket Size: 17mm
Oil Filter Torque: 12 lb-ft (I did a 1/8 turn past hand-tight)
Drain Plug Gasket Model #: Yamaha 4YS-E1198-00-00
Procedure steps:
1. Run the bike before changing the oil (always change the oil with the engine warm)
2. If you have a rear stand, use it (I don't have one, it's not 100% necessary but it helps the oil drain more completely)
3. Protect your work area with some old cardboard to catch any oil spills
4. Place a catch pan under the engine
5. Remove the oil filler cap (this will provide better airflow for the oil to drain more completely)
6. Remove the drain plug (12mm)
7. Remove the oil filter. Use a filter wrench if you have one
8. Use some shop towels/ rag and some brake cleaner to remove excess oil from the outside of the engine
9. Clean your drain plug with brake cleaner and a rag
10. Replace the gasket/washer on your drain plug and reinstall it
11. Torque the drain plug to 14 ft-lb
12. Fill a measuring cup with 1 Quart of 10W-40 oil (I used Yamalube)
13. Fill your new oil filter with oil (about 2/3 full) and rub some oil on the top gasket
14. Install the new oil filter (don't worry about spilling) & hand tighten, then clean off excess oil
15. If using the K&N Oil Filter (recommended), use a ratchet to tighten another 1/8 of a turn (17mm socket)
16. If you're using a rear stand, remove the bike from the rear stand and set it on its side stand
17. Using a funnel, pour the remainder of the first quart of oil into the engine fill hole
18. Measure and pour another 1.5 quarts into the engine
19. Close the filler cap
20. Take the bike off its side stand so its sitting upright and check the oil level
21. Run the bike for a few minutes in place to check for any leaks
22. Use the Select (SEL) button on your dash to find the oil trip
23. Press and hold the Reset (RES) button twice to reset your oil trip
#yamahaR3 #motorcyclemaintenance #newrider
**Note*** You do NOT have to remove the fairings to change the oil and oil filter. Removing the fairings will provide easier access to the filter and drain plug, but it is not completely necessary to remove the fairings unless the filter or plug are stuck and you need better access to work.
Important Specs:
Oil Type: 10W-40
Oil Brand Used: Yamalube
Oil Capacity: 2.5 Quarts with filter change (1.9 quarts without filter change)
Drain Plug Size: 12mm
Drain Plug Torque: 14 lb-ft
K&N Replacement Oil Filter: KN-204
K&N Oil Filter Socket Size: 17mm
Oil Filter Torque: 12 lb-ft (I did a 1/8 turn past hand-tight)
Drain Plug Gasket Model #: Yamaha 4YS-E1198-00-00
Procedure steps:
1. Run the bike before changing the oil (always change the oil with the engine warm)
2. If you have a rear stand, use it (I don't have one, it's not 100% necessary but it helps the oil drain more completely)
3. Protect your work area with some old cardboard to catch any oil spills
4. Place a catch pan under the engine
5. Remove the oil filler cap (this will provide better airflow for the oil to drain more completely)
6. Remove the drain plug (12mm)
7. Remove the oil filter. Use a filter wrench if you have one
8. Use some shop towels/ rag and some brake cleaner to remove excess oil from the outside of the engine
9. Clean your drain plug with brake cleaner and a rag
10. Replace the gasket/washer on your drain plug and reinstall it
11. Torque the drain plug to 14 ft-lb
12. Fill a measuring cup with 1 Quart of 10W-40 oil (I used Yamalube)
13. Fill your new oil filter with oil (about 2/3 full) and rub some oil on the top gasket
14. Install the new oil filter (don't worry about spilling) & hand tighten, then clean off excess oil
15. If using the K&N Oil Filter (recommended), use a ratchet to tighten another 1/8 of a turn (17mm socket)
16. If you're using a rear stand, remove the bike from the rear stand and set it on its side stand
17. Using a funnel, pour the remainder of the first quart of oil into the engine fill hole
18. Measure and pour another 1.5 quarts into the engine
19. Close the filler cap
20. Take the bike off its side stand so its sitting upright and check the oil level
21. Run the bike for a few minutes in place to check for any leaks
22. Use the Select (SEL) button on your dash to find the oil trip
23. Press and hold the Reset (RES) button twice to reset your oil trip
#yamahaR3 #motorcyclemaintenance #newrider
zhlédnutí: 2 598
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I had the same frame sliders and let me tell you, it’s not the move they snap so easily
Thankyou. My Mazda Astina / Mantis has the same engine - almost. Really helpfull
how come you dont tighten and untighten as you squeeze the brakes
did this as my first job on a v6, great help 🎉
Dude thank you so much, this video is a dream. I’m getting really to tackle this project and you coudln’t have made this more clear. THANK YOU THANK YOU!
Thanks for your vido and advices.👍
YEah great job the the leadthrough.....the few ford probe owners out there...LOLprolly really close to the troof...Ive had 4 of them over time...and I swear Im the LAST one in CLT NC......having 3 other totally different cars..I sent mine to a new shop to do THIS job...and 5 other things...for about 800 bux total..I DONT have the time to devote...but still want the PGT alive...( I also have a FULLY intakt parts car)...now I have a question about Check engine lights...:-p
will this fit a 2024 r3?
did you find out? i’ve got a 2023 and was wondering the same thing
I'm sorry but I believe these only fit 2015 - 2018
nicely done!
The Lord is a Probe GT owner and a Ford mechanic? I didn't know that. Will miracles ever cease, I am too. And all along I thought he was a Shepherd or something. Hmm?
Hey man great video please upload more.....
Thought I'd add a followup: I did that valve cover job,new gaskets and did that knock sensor as well... ironically, though I'd Never had the intake manifold off before, and I am its owner since new, mine did Not have that hidden bolt holding the intake in place... not complaining as it made the job easier! when I put it back together, I certainly wasnt gonna add a bolt in there since its been fine since new without it.. as a post note: I was concerned about the rtv silicone getting squezzed out and entering into oil orifices. I tried to use only alittle in the grooves and wiped it clear but upon tightening, I could see it squeezing out,visible from the outside of the cover and likely also inside as well.. anyway, ive been using it for a bit with no issues other than some leakage must have developed somewhere as its starting once again, to smoke from under hood when I park it..oil burning off the headers it seems... I'll probably redo it yet again, with better gaskets and special attention to the sharply bent areas the oring gasket seats against.. these cars seem a real challenge to keep oil tight! how is urs doing after these few yrs? any leaks?
This would be 100x easier if every wire connection wasn't broken/stuck on
Thank you for this
Awesome, ive been looking for somthing to carry my gym clothes and work clothes !
Thanks for the video, especially the torque spec info. My husband just installed the frame sliders on my R3.
well done, helped me out.
My guy, this is coming in handy, my breaks feels crap now and I have practically no rear fluid left, TIME TO CHANGE THEM!
Really great video! Just got my R3 and I've never changed brake fluid before, you really helped me out with this one 💖
Thank you for very comprehensive tutorial! I have to do this to my MX-3 V6 and this will help tremendously. So, thank you! 👍🙏
LMAO my clutch broke day 1 on my r3 the same place! the ball broke off :( i put duct tape on it lol
thanks , i will do that to my 2016. i have that same bike, same color, only the muffler is flat black
Great review. Are you still using our bag today?
Yep! I have a different bike now but the bag still works just as well as when I purchased it 👍
@@jeffycr3169 Fantastic! Thank you for your support!
your left with the buckles flapping about
great diy video. thank you!
Just want to make a note here and say a few things. First, f that bolt in the back. Second, don’t drain your coolant, just disconnect the throttle body from the intake plenum. Third, no need to remove the engine hook. Some of the steps are not necessary 😅
I had this same exact one for years! So handy, and works great. I gave it to the guy who bought my S1k though, missed it so much I bought their new one. It has molle strap downs on top of it, and is bigger inside. They also made it more sturdy, it has like plastic walls. They did change the mounting brackets, but they still work just as well. Anyone interested, if you have a sport bike or naked, this thing is super good for everyday to medium trips.
Great video.. excellent presentation and explanations.. Something I would like to do on my '94 MX6 but lack some tools and a garage. It's not a big leak, more of a sweating, but it still mst hit the manifold as I can smell the oil. Considering a 'stop leak' product. Great job there and a sweet looking Probe. Kudos
Top notch explanation with super handy hints. Thanks
Excellent video, thank you!
Nice, much appreciated.
That's a lot of sealant, you only need them in the hard corners. Also we've never drained the coolant, no real need, just pinch off the TB coolant lines -0 and really loop those TB coolant lines, they don't help anyway. That mystery bolt is referred to as the 'bitch bolt' for this car, it rarely goes back in. Otherwise, nice work.
Ive had my car since new in 94.. always done my own repairs.. that intake was never removed till I did a valve gasket replacement myself at 250kmi.. the bitch bolt was absent ..kid you not... I could see where it would have went, and I was prepared to deal with it but it was never installed to begin with... to anyone else ,I'd say leave the damn thing out when you put it back tiogether..its redundant..that intake aint going anywhere if u leave it off ..LOL
So which one is left and right frame slider?
This is awesome man great info on a car that has virtually no support! I had my 97 pgt in 2013 and it was hard then to get info or aftermarket support.
I am currently doing this exact procedure according to your video but I can not get the manifold up. I have removed all nuts and bolts but it does not open. Anyway to pry it open or something?
12mm hidden bolt still in place..??
Great video , especially on installing the bag, very easy to learn, amazing.
My man! i just bought a 2020 R3 last June! what helmet is that on the table?
It's a Scorpion EXO R420 - I bought it as my first helmet and it served me well
@@jeffycr3169 hows the wind noise at highway speeds? I got a Simpson speed bandit for $300 but the wind noise is so damn loud i need earplugs
@kade272 The wind noise really wasn't too bad, especially considering the price of the helmet, but I've since upgraded to an Arai Defiant-X. I think regardless of the helmet you wear, earplugs are probably good for highway riding in general.
Fantastic review. Thank you for showing off the bag so well and all the pros and cons. I'll be ordering one too!
What's the distance between the straps on the sport and touring models? Trying to figure out if my passenger seat is long enough.
Will this fit a standard size styrofoam to go box that you get from restaurants?
I wish my brother rode. He’s not interested in riding street bikes 😞
cool vid bro i love the r3 but gonna add r6 to the collection soon !
My son and I bought a 1994 Probe gt - v6 2.5l. When we bought the car the entire engine was disassembled and parts were all in a bucket. We are slowly identifying parts and cleaning them all up. We do know the car will need - new water pump, timing belt, pretty much all gaskets, ect. My question is this: the spark plug wires were removed and while you very specifically labeled yours as you removed them…we do not have that luxury. Lol Can you help us figure out how NEW wires would go…or point in right direction to help install new wires/plugs properly. We have a lot of cleanup and detailed work to do on this car before spark plugs go in…. Loved your video. It was very informative and will be VERY helpful when we try to reinstall engine parts, manifolds, air intake, ect.
Hey Amy - shoot me an email at jeffyc.r3@gmail.com and I'll email you a diagram & photos sometime this weekend to show how the wires should be connected to the distributor cap
doesn't NY want only stock exhaust?
Any idea if these will fit on the 2022? Bike seems to be the exact same as prior models
Will this fit a riding jacket?
I'm easily able to fit my textile or mesh jacket, my leather jacket would be a tight squeeze but it'd fit
Do you know what size extension you used for the mystery bolt?
12mm nut
Why do some videos show people pump the brake a few times then open and close the bleeder? Is there a reason that the bleeder cannot stay open the entire time?
Pumping multiple times to build up pressure and then opening the bleeder valve to release the fluid is a perfectly good way of doing it, so long as you close the valve before letting off the brake. This is done to prevent any air from getting back into the hose and brake lines. Submerging the end of the hose in brake fluid in the bottle negates the need to do this, because the fluid in the bottle blocks air from re-entering the system.
@@jeffycr3169 Thank you for the response! I just finished bleeding them a few minutes ago with the help of your video so thank you thank you for posting this. Now I have to see if how to go about fixing the leak coming from my right fork. 😩
Where did you find the torque specs? I can’t find them in my owners manual
I took them straight from the owner's manual - if you go to 5:43 in the video I show the torque specs in the book 👍🏻
Excellent walk through , thanks for taking the time to upload as it would have added hours to your task so its appreciated , and thanks for adding additional advice and doing as a voiceover so it's clear and concise with no shouting over traffic noise etc Regards Richard