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They are alloy wheels that came with the used vehicle, so not sure if they are Toyota brand or not. There are no brand markings on them and they are spray painted matte black, which seems to be holding up well. I love the utilitarian look of them.

Thanks! Not from Duluth, it's a few hours drive for me, although I get there every year. Love that area.

Glad you liked it!

Check out my video "How to Illuminate your Off-Road Switches the Easy Way". Here's the link: czcams.com/video/26yJk28SFl0/video.html Hope that helps! Good luck!

@sunroomstudios8487 thank you! I really found your videos to be very helpful. I own a FJ Cruiser, slightly different setup, but this helped a lot. I love the relay mount idea, ordered that from Amazon.

Check out the video "How to Install an OEM Switch for 5th Gen 4Runner" at this link: czcams.com/video/yBAOF-Vwq9c/video.html All the wiring is a process. I eventually would like a roof rack with surround camping lights (aka Zombie Lights) and maybe some front pod lights. One step at a time! Good luck on your lighting!

@@sunroomstudios8487 thanks again!

Ha, thanks! I’m really here for the 4Runner too, just thought I’d share something I find useful! 😎

That sounds frustrating and I don’t really know why that is. According to CaliRaised it should fit 2024. Any chance you hit and bent your cross bar slightly? I’m sure you tried bolting the key bolt side first. How about a temporary longer bolt to get everything aligned, then replace one bolt at a time? Hope you got it working!

Thanks! Not a single spec of rust so far. The powder coat is top quality. In Minnesota, everything rusts in a matter of time though, so I rubbed a coat of Fluid Film on it and will do that 1-2x per year. I also spray Fluid Film inside the frame and through the drain holes and sills of each door. I’m a huge fan of Fluid Film. Smells like a wet sheep, but it’s awesome.

Air flow is going down, which is also why leaves and debris collect on the top when it’s first pulled out. The OEM filter has an arrow pointing up, which is confusing because it indicates that side up rather than direction of air flow. Most replacement filters have an arrow pointing the direction of air flow, which would be down. Not sure if yours is different for some reason? Mine is 2018 TRD OR.

Good to know! I added a new note in the description for this. Thanks!

That is insightful and I didn’t know the outlets wouldn’t switch on automatically if completely drained and power is restored. Good to know! I hope Anker can address this with a firmware update!

It’s about 2.5” of lift with Bilstein 5100 shocks and OME coils.

@@sunroomstudios8487 thanks!

​@@sunroomstudios8487 what did your mpg end up being after the 33s?

About 16 mpg city, haven’t gotten above 17 on hwy. I have a solid overall average of 16.6 mpg, carrying about 300lbs of cargo all the time, plus the steel CBI front bumper. 87 octane.

@@sunroomstudios8487 awesome man, thanks for the info. I'm running 35s and looking to drop the lift to a 3 inch BP51s so 33s is the way to go without cutting. I'm doing 13.6 so an extra 3 mpg would be nice

Yep! Middle setting is standard mode where rear camera is triggered by reverse drive.

I’m not sure about the tape either. Maybe not necessary at all. I’ve seen others do it so figure it won’t hurt.

I measure on level ground, from the center of the hub to the fender. In the front I get 22” and in the rear I get 24”. That’s fully loaded with gear, and with the CBI front steel bumper.

Not good. Fire risk was a concern of mine also, so I wanted to stick with reputable established brands that seemed to have the lowest risk: Anker and EcoFlow. I’ve been using both daily for odds and ends and so far no issues. I like that the Anker app has a battery temperature monitor also. Although it’s a very low fire risk, it’s still something to be aware of.

@@sunroomstudios8487 He said it started to have a smell to it when he was charging it and about a week after that it started smoking during use. So I guess if it starts smelling funky that's a possible sign

Thanks for the invaluable information but when you say "one of these" do you mean this actual brand and model or just a portable power station in general? Good info regardless, just wondering.

That’s awesome! It completely changes the look. Nice to have a big chunk of time to do it without feeling rushed. Good luck on the install!

Nice! I also may eventually drill holes for a more secure method once I get a full roof rack and know where all the cross bars are, or I may go with the quick release system like Pelican has. Lots of options out there. Thanks for watching!

Yep, I’m trying to figure out some budget ways to use the factory roof rack and keep it low profile.

I just measured it and with that angled flap level, there’s a 2” gap to the tailgate. The last 7” is an angled flap that tilts downward unless you have enough gear to hold it level with the rest of the retracting cover. It’s still holding up well and I’ve stacked guitars, shovels, traction boards, etc on top of it.

Glad you liked it!

Great timing! An upcoming video I’m working on will be about the case and how I’m mounting it. I wanted to try it on the roof a bit before doing a video on it. It’s a Pelican case that’s over a decade old. There are plenty of great cases out there, but I’m a big fan of Pelican!

@@sunroomstudios8487 I've always heard great things about Pelican, but I was hoping yours was Harbor Freight. The over lander I spoke with said HFs was actually thicker material than Pelican. I'll look forward to your Pelican case video.

That makes sense the security bolts go together. I should have tried that!

Thanks!

Nice job!

You don’t really need to install one for the front. The front breather is on the drivers side, but is already elevated to the level of the air intake, so unless you’re going through water above your floorboards, you don’t need to extend the front. It’s difficult to reach anyway. I’m not sure why the rear is so low compared to the front, but all I did was the rear. Thanks for watching! I appreciate it!

@@sunroomstudios8487 Oh perfect glad to know, thank you!

Thanks! I appreciate it! Glad it helped!

I’m assuming it’s for added ventilation. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!

@@sunroomstudios8487 I can see the airflow advantage over other brands. Any chance it allows you to access the bolts that secure the winch? Or access to anything else that would otherwise be hard to get at when the bumper is mounted? It seems like a lot of effort for them to design it to be removable if removing it has no purpose.

The plate appears to be removable but would require some manipulation. That would allow access to the mounting bolts for the winch, but there’s no chance that winch is coming out without taking the entire bumper off. I don’t see a real reason for this other than possibly an easier manufacturing process.

I looked at RSG also, but they were about $100 more and had minimal ventilation holes. It really came down to price for me. RSG looks super easy to install though with only 4 bolts, so that’s a big bonus.

The running boards came with the vehicle, and there are no identifying logos, other than a stamped number “29112182”. They are 4” tube step bars, similar to Westin Pro Traxx from Carid.com. They are only for a step and don’t offer any protection, they’d fold with any impact. One of my next mods on my wishlist is to replace these with good quality rock sliders.

@@sunroomstudios8487 Thanks for the info. Those Westin ones do look similar. I noticed you have a MN license plate. Do you happen to be near Fargo? If so maybe I could take those off your hands when you are done with them.

I promised them to a coworker when that time comes, probably at least a year from now though.

I probably use it more as a separator from my gear with other odds and ends, rather than a sole theft deterrent. It’s convenient to throw a coat on top, and strong enough to support a guitar. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!

Thanks! I appreciate it!

😂 💪

Yes, you can reach the winch lever from the bumper cut out to free spool. Not with a glove or mitten though. Kind of awkward, but you can reach it. Thanks for watching!

You're welcome!

That's frustrating. Let's try to isolate the problem. Sounds like you tested the wiring harness and it worked fine, which would include the fuse along the red wire. I'm sure you also checked all connections again, including the battery terminal for corrosion. Are you using the cigarette lighter fuse with an add-a-fuse for constant switch illumination with the yellow wire? The switch should be able to work without this, so you could try that. Also double check the cigarette lighter fuse, and also the in-line fuse in the green wire. The cigarette light fuse is only on when the key is on. You also already checked your light bar, so that's not the issue, as long as it's within the rated amps for fuses (15 amp). After checking all of this, verify secure wires going into the clip that plugs into the switch. If all of that checks out, then it's likely isolated to the switch. If you're using the same switch I did, contact the seller and I'm sure you'll get it replaced. I've contacted them before and they're great to work with. Hope that helps! Good luck!

Wow, my rear liner never had that issue. I don’t have front liners yet though and am planning on getting some. I’ve been really happy with the rear so far. I always have floor heat mode on in the winter though, I wonder if that helps prevent an issue with ice buildup?

@@sunroomstudios8487 Oh to be more clear. No ice build up. The mats are hard and slippery. Like and ice rink.

My floor liner never had that issue, sorry to hear that your co-worker did. Maybe the chemical compound is different? There is a lifetime limited warranty. It may be worth calling or emailing them. I’d be interested in hearing what they say.

Likely different models. The og weathertechs are a hard plastic like a Rubbermaid trash can type material. That would explain it being so slippery. The HP “newer” model is more rubberized / I would assume more traction like in the video

I can’t reach the winch wire control plug from the bumper access holes and could only reach it from the top by opening the hood and removing the plastic cowl cover. I wasn’t going to do that every time, so I left it plugged in. So far keeping it plugged in and running the wire into the cabin works just fine! If you have a wireless winch, then you don’t need to worry about plug access, only as a backup if the wireless fails. I guess another option is to relocate the winch control box to a more accessible location, but then you need to worry about mounting that securely somehow. If your winch is wired only, Harbor Freight makes a wireless controller adaptor that turns wired winches into wireless. Good luck and thanks for watching!