Video

Glad it helped!!!

Test the PCM control at the PCM... Just because the PCM is repaired or new doesn't mean it's any good. Check pin fitment at the PCM connectors and make sure there are no bent it missing pins in the pcm

Where's your videos? Thought so...

@@madmike214 I don’t need videos for income. You give true mechanics a bad name.

@@starstreakshadow typical troll... No originality, no relevance , no life.... I don't get paid for videos 😂

@@madmike214 Well it’s you are making the fool out of yourself. Simple question smart ass. You confirm a Pruis had a bad EV battery. What do you tell the customer.????

@@madmike214 Laughing so much. You deleted my question. What an idiot you are and deserved to be highlighted as a fraud🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Check all the basics, battery health and connections, is the starter getting a signal? Is the starter cable able to carry the current necessary to start, is the starter any good?

Yeah, I suggested plugs only and she insists it's a head gasket... I wasn't comfortable with doing that job when there is no verification of the complaint... I did give her an estimate for the head gasket along with sending the head out for reconditioning... That estimate was NOT cheap! I wish she would have let me put plugs in it but she's convinced 100% her head gasket has failed 🤷

I've seen this before from after market coils they don't pull the igf to ground when it fiers the coil and the ecm does something I don't know if it shuts down the control and its not like the oem coil and things happen sounds like the engine going to come off car on startup.

@@gazmendhajra1957 that's interesting

@@madmike214 I'm confused why a customer would insist it's the head gasket. I had an ignition coil fail on my Camry at highway speed, and it was incredibly dramatic, I thought the worst, but that's all it was.

@@MattExzy because she saw a CZcams video

Wish I could help, I'm not an appliance repair man, I'm automotive and industrial technician... Only thing that made my diagnosis correct on this particular video was a visual inspection where I saw the blown component... I would suggest doing the same. Use a magnifying glass or something and just look for burn marks or things that just don't look right

Yes

Depends... This was a customer that first tried diy repairs, I had to sort through that first, then diagnose it, then research more to find the updated service bulletins, then the final repair.

Maybe 😂

Yes

Yes

Was it the part we’re you disconnected the plug to and it kept on having that suction ?

@@madmike214 thank you so much I was stressing dude. God bless

Omg dude I ordered the purge valve and code is till there after I reset the check engine light:/ but the old purge valve was definitely bad.

They weren't really worn out. They were deteriorated. This van has over 330,000 mi and the shoes fell out when I did the rear rotors

@@madmike214 Thanks I was wondering 330,000 is alot of miles. I bought my Van new in 2008 for a second vehicle and have 24,000 miles on it. I had to start replacing suspension bumpers, sway bar bushings, and shocks when it started clunking. I have a few decades before the emergency brakes fail but if salt damage caused your brakes to deteriorate living in the south I might never have that problem.

Too oldschool.

I think the part number is in the description, contact digikey.com

Ignorant? Are you retarded? This is my personal vehicle and this was at my house... The vehicle at that time was not road worthy yet since I had to replace the heads (both were cracked, I got the vehicle this way on purpose... Cheap price) why in the world would I take apart a vehicle only to have it sit apart on jack stands with kids around so I can do the brakes all at once to make you happy? Why would I have insurance on a vehicle that was not yet registered or driven on the road? I didn't do them when I had it apart last time because I had other stuff going on and parts aren't free... Next time I do something on my personal vehicle maybe you can pay for the parts so I don't have to do shit that you don't approve of on a project vehicle ...

Good luck! I had to get creative but it's possible

@@madmike214 thank you for the video mike. I'll update you once I'm successful with removing it

@@madmike214 thank you for the video mike. I'll update you once I'm successful with removing it

Sure

Start with a scan report, need to see if any codes will give you direction

Thank you for the tip!

I didn't check fuel trims because it was a dead miss. There was no need to check and after the repair no more misfire 👍

@@madmike214 Awesome I had cylinder 3 coil short out and I never thought it can damage something inside PCM,thank you for your response after replacing everything on that cylinder this is my last bet thank you again.

I'm this case it was obvious because it had a hole in it but following it through would mean locate the pin and on the board side follow the traces to and through the components

?

Then u have to reset the ecm or it will happen periodically where it will tell u stater disabled remove the key wait 3 minutes

I know it sounds stupid but my Cadillac starts

@@kitchnerlesley did you watch the video? What you're describing would do absolutely nothing... This one starts just fine at the end😉

@@madmike214 4 now all that was completely unnecessary which is why I like anyone looking to actually solve the issue cut it off half way

Hard to say without knowing the complete vehicle history, the environment and what the life cycle of the part is... We're in the rust belt so any number of things could cause it to fail... Could have been simply it's life cycle was over

@@madmike214 Thank you for responding🙏. Another youtuber also mentioned it was overfilling the gas tank that caused it for him.

Possible, really know way to know on this vehicle, the owner recently purchased so no service history available

Yes I programmed the PCM, I haven't had much experience with the plug and play stuff... I did have a Dakota that was problematic.... Long story

@madmike214 cool, what scan tool are you using and do you have a programming subscription? That's something that's always been a little tough for me, back in my dealer days logging in and pulling the file was so easy, I don't have a lot of experience with aftermarket programming. TIA

@@paulkelley86 I don't remember what scan tool, Its likely the thinktool proS, I don't have a programming subscription, I purchase as needed... Mopar is WAY too expensive to carry a yearly sub. For the programming I'm using a cardaq 3+

@madmike214 cool, similar to you, the battery is totally shot on the one I just did, same thing customer requests replace alternator. I did and found it does charge, but I was seeing it intermittently drop below 12.6 while running. Before replacing it wouldn't even run with the jump pack removed so it went from a no charge to a charging but seeming like an intermittent, and the battery is totally shot so diagnosis is all being done on a lithium ion jump pack which has the voltage jumping up and down as the pack does its on off smart thing lol. Customer declines battery because it's under AAA warranty haha so I really don't know what I have there. I'll take a look when AAA does the battery. If mine goes the way yours did, and I do an ecm, I'll do one of the pre programmed ones and let you know how I make out. Thanks for the insight!

@@paulkelley86 I'd say you can't properly diag with a bad battery.... That's the heart.

Yeah, I didn't put the alternator in, infact I never diagnosed the original to be bad... The father decided to put the "new" alternator in since he "already had it" .... No way to know if the original was good or not because that was returned as a core

The funny part is, The father chose to replace the alternator anyway... Then I get a call and I had to diagnose it again... He put a bad brand new alternator in LOL. So this time it actually did need an alternator

Any solution to this

Not sure, I've never had an issue with them, it works on my autel, my snap on, my u scope and my pico... I haven't gotten my new scope yet but I'm sure it'll work on that as well... Make sure you have the polarity in the scope settings right

Nope, board was easy to pull off and it was very noticable

@@madmike214 only asking because i'm only getting 50v from board to lid lock and i don't see any faulty circuits. curious if something else might be drawing power.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help, this was years ago and if I remember correctly I think I bought a repair manual... Don't remember where though. Good luck

Maybe the speaker's damaged? Sorry I can't be of more help

Agreed... My last one was free no name old as hell and beat to shit but lasted almost a decade while being stopped outside in all weather and the only thing I had to do to that was replaced the pull cord because it rotted off 😂. And the only reason I got rid of it was because I bought that Honda...🤦

Sorry, I'm in Pennsylvania

The bushing was badly deteriorated when it was removed but the reason for the harsh engagement/limp mode was due to a failed selector module (ESL)

@@madmike214 did you reset it using a diagnostic tool or buy a new 1?

Used unit, had to remove the PCB's from the casings and clone the eeprom's. The eeprom stores DAS information. I used a eeprom reading/writing tool