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Some addition to my previous post. Camera photosensor seemingly operates at GHz frequency (I do not know exact duration of pixel reading cycle, but let us assume that it is 100MHz). Using value for the number of photones that hit pixel during exposure time (at 1/1000 sec it is 2E+14) we can calculate number of photones that hit one pixel during 1 reading cycle. This number is about 2 millions, which is menageable for photodiode well capacity, may be.

Nice and informative video. Unfortunately comparison of light and rain does not work due to the enormous scale difference. I will try to explain. Approximate mimimal light energy which currnetly can be detected is 1 picowatt per square centimeter. Sony 61 Mp camera has 1 pixel area about 14 square micrometers, so minimal energy detectable by one pixel is 0,14 attoWatt (1.4E-19 Watt). If we assume exposure of 1/1000 sec, then during this time minimal power detected is 7.7E-11 Joules. Energy of one photon at 500 nm (yellow light) is 4E-25 Joules. (All these data are easily accesible on Internet). If we divide minimal power detected by 1 pixel on the energy of one photon we will get 2E14 photones or 200 Tera-photones should hit 1 pixel in 0.0001 os a second. This means that just to get a minimal glimpse of light redisteres by one pixel we need enormous amount of photones. Any statistical fluctuations on this level are negligible, even fluctuations on the level of Giga quantities of photons. Majority of noise is created by thermal, electonic, mechanical (vibration) fluctuations affecting efficiency and operation of photodiodes, amplifiers, ADC on the sensor chip.

damn dude, I am currently 3 mins in and all you've done is talk about how much you like ISO and how nuanced your opinions and interests are

Great Video! Explained a lot, Going to subscribe, And going to look to see if you’ve got a video explaining the different Sony Log profiles in depth like this, If you don’t have one, I’d been keen to know your thoughts and knowledge on the different Sony Log profiles.

I just ALWAYS get ugly noise if I try ANY manual settings, whereas if i just put it on auto its clean and beautiful??? how do I learn manual anything, when all things manual are just pure ugly, grainy, noisy, bad colors and awful look as apposed to auto mode?

Hands down the best CZcams video you can watch to truly understand how ISO works, especially on Sony cameras. Great work

Sorry there is one thing i don't get clear, can i use dual iso in photography?

Got this video randomly recommended. Did really like it, especially about most people not making use of the "Digital" Part of a Camera. I suppose most people think that using a filter is more authentic than digital post processing, but I personally do not need to spend extra money and space to justify myself to others. If it looks good, it looks good. Subscribed.

am I the only one who buys stuff and then watches reviews for it, I just placed my order for a Canon R50 as a beginner and this is the first video that pops up.

Very nice video! 👏 On the next video can you please tell us about the best exposure by setting correctly between the shutter speed and the iso values. So our video or photo is properly exposed. Thanks in advance 😊

It seems odd to me that the ZV-E10 is not included on your list .... is there a specific reason for this? (my camera is a ZV-E10, that's why I'm asking)

All correct.

Good videobro!

Seems like you don't do videos any longer, but this one seems to have been a great success, deservingly so. I do see some other interesting videos that I am going to check. I think you could have a big YT channel, if you ever decide to go for it.

I'm speechless on how to describe the perfect explanation given in this video. A must watch 👍

Sometimes I’ll see educational/tutorial videos, and people in the comments are going out of their way to express immense gratitude for how great of a video it is and how great the creator is. And even if I agree, 99.9% of the time, I’m not going to contribute yet another of those comments and maybe I’ll just give someone else’s a thumbs up, because I’d rather spend my time consuming more of the videos and learning things than communicating with the creator. Nah. Not today. Stumbled across your videos yesterday, watched a few, appreciated them all, got interrupted by kids’ swimming lessons and whatnot… but came back and started watching more of your just right deep dives. Just nerdy enough to teach me things in a way my brain likes to learn, just simple enough that my brain isn’t checking out and refusing to try to keep up. Just enough analogies and metaphors. Sir, your channel deserves my ultra rare endearing comment of gratitude. 😂 Really, though, your way of communicating is exactly what I’d hope for if I took some kind of college photography classes. Alas, I’m too broke for that, so I’m doing what I can here on CZcams. I wouldn’t miss a single day, even if your classes were at 8am. And dude, I really like my sleep.

Agreed on all , i knew all of this when I was a beginner because iv watched probably a thousand hours worth of yt camera content 😂. I bought a gimbal tho but only because there was a scene in my short movie where we did a mini car chase and that really needed stability. The gimbal still serves me occasionally but I too prefer handheld , its just way less hassle and more organic.

You are right...adding on to what you said What I tell myself that me and my work are not the same because I COULDN'T EXACTLY CREATE WHATS IN. MY HEAD AS IT IS BUT ONLY 40PERCENT OF IT...therefore I am creative...it just wasn't going to materialize in this world exactly how I want it..at least not yet

That is a very detailed and good explanation. thank you!!

Whyd you stop making content?

soooooo interesting and well explained! THANK YOU

I really appreciate this video. A lot of logical points and positions 👍.

Hello! I would like to use the hybrid mode. To keep the focus on the trigger button and use the BBF at the same time. More precisely, I press BBF, share the image and then press the shutter button on which I kept the autofocus. Thank you!...I USED GOOGLE TRANSLATION

Thank u .. new follower !!

Gorilla pods are a great concept but they definitely need work on the design and follow through.

Very, very interesting video that sheds a lot of light 😉 on this confusing topic. Many thanks for that! Unfortunately, the German subtitles are no longer available from about 26:50, which would have helped me a lot. But I think when I watch the video for the third time, I will understand everything.😅 Best regards from 🇨🇭

Thanks!

I find it interesting that you mentioned comparing down because that has been extremely helpful for me, and I didn't know it technically had a name. Comparing upward gives me direction and inspiration while downward helps keep me from wallowing in self pity. I appreciate your tips.

Hey man, I just recently got into photography again, I bought a 17-55mm 2.8 to replace the kit lens my T7 came with, it came with a up filter, is there any reason I should take it off of is it not doing anything i need to worry about?

Great video, a lot of it was over my head honestly tho. Im trying to understand noise performance in slog3 profile for photo. Ive noticed when I shoot raw + jpeg in slog3 that the jpeg looks like what i saw on the screen (an slog 3 image) the raw file defaults to a different picture profile that is not flat and the image is always grossly underexposed (even though the slog 3 jpeg was properly exposed). Im shooting video/photo w sony a6700 with an unofficial dual native of 800 and 2500 in slog 3. Unfortunately all other picture profiles render a unofficial dual native of roughly 100 to 500 and I find myself in environments where I need 6k to 12k iso values to achieve the exposure I am desiring. From my research and testing in slog 3 video 12800 iso is highest value with minimal noise when exposed properly that you can achieve. Im assuming that whats happening in photo mode is slog3 mode the noise levels would match video mode noise levels assuming same exposure values and that in Raw it defaults to no picture profile and a lower dual native iso value. I want to know limitations of my camera and limitations in low light environment. In an enviroment where my f stop is as low as possible and my shutter is locked in so I dont get too much motion blur would it be better to shoot raw when Im needing 6k iso or should I shoot jpeg in slog 3 and develop the image similarily to how I would on davinci resolve for video

Dude, this was such an informative video. You definitely made great points & honestly discussed concerns I’ve had in the past about certain products, and now I’m super glad I didn’t buy these things. Thanks a ton!

Ahahaha, I haven't seen that Thor movie so the little clip caught me by surprise, subbed!

Dan, this is one of the best videos I've seen this year. Although it is very big nerdy subject, you have managed to scale it down and simplise it. Well done!

Such a great video! Thank you, Dan. Subscribed <3

Sorry. You need to stop the waffle and just get to the point. You have some good knowledge to share. But 3 mins in and you were still waffling. Sorry. It broke me. Maybe later…

Your Sony Alpha zebras guidance for photography is super helpful. None of this in the user manual… I’d figured out that 100+ was not truly over-exposed when shot in raw and didn’t know what value to use.

Superb. I sort of knew the technical stuff (having read the patent, especially Figures 2B and 3), but for me the real value in this video is translating what this means into how you use this to best effect when taking photos. You manage to cover a huge range of issues with real clarity. My job now is to translate it all (into French) for my photo club, most of whom are ETTR , believe that ETTR demands ISO 100 and that ETTR revolves around those top 8192 values. But you have shown me the best way of doing that, so many many thanks.

What a great video!! Thanks!

My button is set to Tracking On + AF On from the factory. What’s the difference?

Many many years BBF@dslr user hear ;). And personally not need more when move to Sony mirrorless which has tremendous and very effective tracking system that work like a charm! I prefer dedicating my thumb to the joystick rather than to af-on button and it is now work a lot better than separating focusing function from shutter button.

Excellent content brother!

UV filters do protect the front element of your lens. They are cheap and easy to replace.

от души душевно в душу.

Leave a like if I found this video help? Damn dude, I loved it.

have to disgree about the drone i am a drone pilot since 5 year doing amazing shot and amazing video but MAN when i got a camera for the fisrt time it was hard time nothing to compare ABSOLUTLY nothing comparable drone are WAY EASIER

Hey, Dan. I know it's hard to come back after a break. I've been there. The best advice is to just jump in. Even a short chatty video is always welcome. 😊

WTF is a gorilla pod? That thing looks like a gimmicky piece of junk, I will take my $30 Zomie tripod over that thing. It is not the best tripod ever but it won't give from use and it's going on 4 years since I bought it and put a dent in a leg but no issues. With drones you also have to know your local laws, they are banned where I photograph.

I hate gorilla pods

Only 10k subs on this channel? Damn!

I'd rather get it right in the camera. Yes I'm an old-school film photographer who has been using digital cameras for years now. The better source material you have the better the end product. And the less time spent in post production. Like audio recording I'm not a fan of fixing it in the mix. Why start out with lazy habits relying on Photoshop? And a filter on the front - I'll still use one. Why risk a lens element trusting what the manufacturer puts on it? I'd rather risk a filter than a lens that costs a small fortune.