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@@autoboy48 Cab alignment is important getting all measurements even side to side as a small difference at the frame/cab translates to a lot at the nose. Sometimes you have to tweak the cab to get the front on and looking good even though it isn't technically straight. Frame twist, accidents in the past or simply body/frame mounts that were not installed at the factory straight can frustrate the whole process.

@@ThisIsToolman You are absolutely right about that. I have never seen one of those torches up close but it sounds like it must work very well. Luckily mine was pretty solid overall.

I don't know if John is cool with me discussing his personal business but I will ask him if it is okay and get back to you. I just installed Edelbrocks Pro flo 4 fuel injection in the SS last month so it is worth even more now...

That is a great idea! I saw some guy that used a small fountain pump and routed the hose to flow over the rusted areas and let it drip back into the tub the pump was in. Your idea is way better especially if you covered the area with plastic wrap to hold the moisture in while it worked.

@@jarrettb.7302 Yes I downloaded the newest version I think. When I select the E Tuner display it asks to use my phone's location services so the MPH must get its signal from GPS on the phone. I am using an Android with the latest OS.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I see. I’m on iPhone so the android and iPhone apps must be different. Thats pretty unfortunate.

@@jarrettb.7302 Android wins again! It is a nice feature, maybe they will add it soon.

@@daveringeisen130 Thanks Dave, those have to be the last holes....I hope.

@@gofastwclass Thanks for the tips, I appreciate it. Still a newbie with tig but my machine can do pulse and I can control the start amperage setting. I found using a longer stick out with the MiG allows a little burn back and less push into the parent material getting build up with less penetration. It seems to work for me. I need to get some more practice in with the tig welding in holes for sure.

Yeah a day here or there is fine but this constant blistering heat just builds and builds on itself. If it cooled down at night it wouldn't be so bad but 85 degrees at 4am is ridiculous. How is the truck coming along?

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Unfortunately Mark, I haven't touched the truck in 3 months from just being too busy at work plus I've had some health problems as well. Hopeful to get back after it soon.

@@douglashart5059 Sorry to hear that Doug, I hope you are on the mend. You need a vacation!

Thanks Robert. There used to be a saying around welders "that guy is so good he could weld two soup cans together" Mind you that was back in the stick only days. Well I can weld two soup cans together easily if I had too with a mig. Like I mentioned to you before the panel is pretty well protected because of the Phosphoric acid dip at the end but you are smart to get going as fast as you can towards epoxy. If you would have had Pops media blasted it would already be flash rusting. You and I will be spraying epoxy about the same time, I am just a year in prep...

Me either but I have a few hours with a mig gun in my hands so I had a 50/50 chance. Not the perfect repair but the panels are really solid so I am okay with it.

@@SWResto isn't that always the case? Find a good deal but the shippings kills it.

Thank you Robert. I have several home made tools hanging around, remembering where I put them is the hard part.

I really like those little Nova's. Wouldn't mind owning one.

Thanks Matt. I have never done this on a Camaro so I can't speak to that but it certainly is worth a look to see if you could glean some room. Doing tubs opens a big can of worms for sure.

Thanks. Sometimes you have to get medieval to get the job done.

Thanks. I have been thinking about your widening of your fenders. I think the Cut and Butt method would work the best. Here is a link to Fitzees Fabrications. Tony does a lot of Cut and Butt and this video shows why it is so useful. czcams.com/video/MBYGGz1yyZ0/video.htmlsi=EFqQj5Z9iUxtREQS On your fenders you could cut the donor fenders 2 1/2" out from the mounting flange from one end to the other, make a 2" wood spacer to place between the two flanges of the donor piece and fender to clamp them together so it will be perfectly parallel line up the sheet metal and tack it like Tony does. Then cut all the way through both pieces at the 2" mark, make the seam flush and tack away. You need a really thin cut off blade on your grinder but this method will help keep the shape of the fenders really well. I would start at the top of the fender and work each way to the bottom.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Thanks Mark.

Thanks, the other side turned out to be a lot more work than I thought. Both are done now and have the same amount of room.

@@robertmazzei2412 That is great news Robert. Pretty exciting phase of your project. I look forward to seeing the pictures. How is the humidity there? Not bad I hope.

Well. In the summer it’s fine. Not like SoCal for sure. But I won’t be able to let it sit as you’ve done with Ruby. I’ll need to get the DTM epoxy it sooner rather than later. Are you still satisfied with the epoxy product you used on Ruby? Thanks very much Mark.

@@robertmazzei2412 Yes I am but there are plenty out there to choose from. Just read the product sheets on all of them before you choose. Just because they call it DTM doesn't mean it is for large bare steel areas. What paint line are you thinking of going with? Are you using base coat clear coat or single stage?

I’m going to use single stage. Maybe I should go to the auto paint store I use and get their take on things. I recently had them match a paint color for my airplane tail and they did a super job. I can look back at your video, but can you give me the product name you used. I’ll run it by them and see what they think. Really appreciate your help!

@@chesterthomas4891 Thanks, I am happy it has been helpful to others with these trucks.

@@leinad5243 Thanks, I was very happy to get the donor quarter panel on in time to have the car dipped.

@@SkaterStimm Not sure, the water seemed to beat up on the Gibbs but was definitely different than the bare steel. It has almost been a year since I had the car stripped and it is doing great. The phosphoric acid they dip it in is the key. Almost ready to spray epoxy so all is good.

Here is a link to a site where I got a lot of ideas and measurements. redwingsteelworksplans.com/ Hope this helps. I didn't follow them exactly.

@@davidpowell5137 Thanks I am putting a TKX in. I wanted to use the Muncie with an overdrive but it cost more than the Tremec. My tunnel is pretty beat up and needs work either way.

Thanks. I built the rotisserie from scratch. Here is a link to the video czcams.com/video/LKgnqP3Z-To/video.html

Beautiful work. Thanks for the reply.

In all fairness Chris I made probably half those holes moving stuff around or removing factory mounts. They still needed to be filled though no matter how they got there. I am sure yours will be a lot less. Thanks

Thanks Rodney, me too. Doing what I can to clean up everything on Ruby so she is super clean when all done.

Thanks Matt. I have made my share that is for sure, luckily they were a long time ago but I still manage to screw things up from time to time. New situation, new chance to mess it up.

Thanks, I think all the hard work now is really going to pay off big time later.

Thanks Doug and Happy Independence day to you and yours. The wheel wells will get undercoating but I am thinking of painting the floor pan gloss red like the exterior. Sound deadening will be done on the inside so having a nice smooth and glossy finish underneath will be easy to keep clean and will look good too.

Thanks. How is the frame coming along other than a marathon hole filling session? If I remember correctly you are using a lot of the factory frame and beefing it up where needed.

@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Yes I'm using a set of original frame rails and mirroring them to make boxing plates. Then I can weld them top and bottom to give me more of a factory look. That's why I filled all the holes. I took my mag drill and an annular cutter of the next size above the hole and make a perfect hole. Then I made little plugs on the lathe that tap fit in. For the most part it was just fusion welding. I didn't want to MIG them because it's too hard of a weld and didn't want to end up drilling half way on a hard Mig weld.I'm making all the cross members and X bracing out of tube. Some classes of racing require original frame rails. I got tired of working on the frame and now I'm changing my steering wheel ring from a 18" to a 15.5" ring with the stock center. I'm using a 59 dished on my wheel on my 53 to get the nice self canceling turn signals. I'm also running EPAS Performance electric P/S on stock box with a 1.5 steering quickener.

@@lazyhoundracing9621 And I thought I go overboard on stuff! Sounds like you found a smart way around the rule book on the frame. Send me pics of your handy work so I can share them. Especially the steering wheel.

Well Danny it is kind of a boat, it is a really long car and with the old suspension drove like a boat sometimes 😁 Glad to get them all filled though.

Funny when you think there are repops available you look at a panel and think "That is done, it has to be replaced" but once you can't get a replacement you look at the panel and think "Well it isn't that bad, we can save it" Good on you for not giving up and saving the car for your customer.

Thanks Ray, just started putting it to good use on my GTO project and it is working out awesome.

The factory used that area to spot weld the inner and outer panels together in a certain order for crush strength from what I know. The lead was their body filler back then and performed and still performs better than catalyzed fillers. No shrinkage, dense like steel and sands smooth. Just a lot harder to apply than plastic body fillers.

Thanks Doug. My view is that I need to get better at doing it. The factory lead lasted all this time with zero issues so that shows how good it really is. Plastic body filler has its place, just have to use it properly.

Thank you for such a nice comment, I really appreciate it. Let me know how your project comes out and spread the word about my channel please. Mark

Hi Charlie. I have use EverCoats Metal to Metal which is the same as All Metal. They are metal (aluminum powder) reinforced plastic body fillers. They work great in zero flex areas and are much harder than lightweight fillers. I know a guy doing a 67 Chevelle that welded in a strip on the seam. Looked like it was going to work really well but I wanted to try my hand at leading in that large area and make it match the other side...well kind of match 🙂

Hey Matt, how is the polishing coming along? Thanks I wish it would have come out a little better but I am happy. Trying to keep it real on the channel so we all learn together.

Thanks. Those pits are already haunting me so I will definitely fix them. Just can't let it go you know...

Most people do not appreciate just how much fillers shrink and if you put it on that thick they will shrink over a long period of time. I have seen plenty of ghost repairs haunting plenty of show cars from that very thing.

Thanks Trav, I do the same thing so yell away at me! Dave actually has some and I borrowed what lead he had on hand to finish and totally brain farted on asking him for it. Can't have it to easy, I wouldn't know how to act.

Hi Gary. I am not sure what area you are speaking of. Is it the Heater control panel? If so I thought all the repops had that area cut out. If you give me more details I might be able to help. Mark