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Great video and work on this old machine Bob, and thanks for alerting me to a great new channel to follow 👍

Nice Bob, I'm really pleased you were able to detect some signs of life in the old girl! Thanks for the shout out and links 😀👍

Today my G413 met my desk and my hammer. Waiting for my Redragon K587 to arrive. Irony: I have a spare Logitech, but it's a membrane one XD

Out of curiosity I tried the same 3 line BASIC benchmark on an Electron emulator, and got exactly the same results. It was much slower in the higher graphics modes that use more RAM.

23:20 - those two keys are different, but on a EU market I guess they are also labeled differently. The right one is what we call a Graph ALT (ALT GR) and it is used to alternate between special letters, like e-ę, a-ą, s-ś, c-ć, z-ż, x-ź, n-ń etc. I was surprised to see, that your's (well, your customer's keyboard) doesn't have that ALT GR!

To reset your device to factory defaults, please follow the steps below: *Step 1:* Make sure your device is connected to a network and the status light is solid green. *Step 2:* Please use an unfolded paperclip to press and hold the RESET button for at least 20 seconds while your device is plugged in. *Step 3:* Please wait 60 seconds for the device to reboot. And this process will change all your settings back to the factory defaults.

This gives me vibes of when you used to be able to get the password of a DLink router through SNMP.

So i have 3 of them , i understand they are not easilly fixable , so i have to throw them away ? :(

I have 3 of them in my company , all of them same . Terrible , i really like this keyboard . Disaster

Nice job Bob! A cord with overspray is much more interesting than a normal plain cord! 😉🤣

Thank you this saved my data. Great info

You probably know by now, but... the game menu, just use the up and down keys to navigate it.

That ultrasonic cleaner is a bit nifty!

Doesnt work in my case, I have opened many times and the issue has come back. I have also changed many switches and nothing...

Dude, cheers for the video. You have a cool voice. Subbed.

I'm inclined to agree with your decision to return to a home-built NAS. I am planning to build an off-site backup NAS rather than buy a third QNAP. The main difficulty is coming up with an affordable low-power solution. Thanks for sharing your experience.

I've had to resolder the g413 that I've got about five times now, logitech's support and rma basically told me to pound sand after the second time so they're off my list of folks to buy from once the g413 finally dies for good

My TS-451+ just died. Internet search found this and some other videos about the 100 Ohm fix I soldered in a 100 Ohm resistor and my 10 year old 451+ came back to life. No data lost. But now I have to wonder how long before the thing finally dies. I really do NOT want another QNAP NAS with unreliable intel components - but the AMD stuff is 2X the cost.

is it not a chopped finger from MCM ?

Can you tell which CPU you have? I've read Intel fixed this with Stepping D1 on the J1900 but I haven't found any info on what that looks like with CPUINFO. This is what mines shows model name : Intel(R) Celeron(R) CPU J1900 @ 1.99GHz stepping : 9 microcode : 0x90a

Great video 👏

Thank you for the video, my TS-451 dies unexpectedly, its symptom was in a boot loop and the boot loop shorten to two loops and then stopped. You mention pin 1-100 ohm-pin 8 is to lower the LPC clock voltage. How about pull up the LPC clock voltage? I am not sure if my TS-451's LPC voltage is lower than 1 V, but I wanted to know how to pull up the LPC voltage? and see if that help.

We have two G413's and both eventually developed the dreaded double typing issue, first one lasted about a year and 2nd one only recently started so it lasted about 3 years, seems like once the issue starts it spreads like a virus throughout the keyboard, will not be purchasing Logitech mechanical keyboards again lol. on a positive note my old Logitech K310 non mechanical keyboard still working great after 11 years of use so far.

Good work Bob. Lovely old machines these G4 iMacs. I wanted one so bad BITD. Now I have several 😂

I've been using Windows 11 on my personal machine for the last 2-3 months but still have a MacBook for work. WSL does a pretty good job at being a unixy command line, but it has some limitations around USB devices, thankfully none too critical. KiCad seems to be more stable on Windows. I still get occasional crashes on MacOS even when everything is at the latest version, but on Windows it is rock solid. I've also set up a VPN to allow myself to get in remotely from the Mac and access the desktop via RDP to run software that I can't on MacOS, which is mostly FPGA dev tools. Wasn't sure how much I was going to like or dislike the change but so far I think I could honestly say I'm not looking back. Once I'm in a familiar app I forget about where I am.

Schönes und ausführliches Video. Wenn ich es richtig sehe, wird hier nur auf die Antriebsseite eingegangen? Ich habe das gleiche Gerät, welches motormäßig einwandfrei läuft. Ich habe jedoch ein anderes Problem. Ich weiß zwar, wie man den Calibration-Mechanismus bedient, jedoch schaffe ich es mit keiner Kassette, die geforderten Werte bezüglich BIAS und RECORD LEVEL zu erreichen. Meist ist der BIAS zu niedrig. AUßerdem beeinflussen sich BIAS und Record Level gegenseitig. Woran könnte das liegen? Nice and detailed video. If I see it correctly, does it only deal with the drive side? I have the same device, which runs perfectly in terms of the motor. However, I have a different problem. I know how to operate the calibration mechanism, but I cannot achieve the required BIAS and RECORD LEVEL values with any cassette. The BIAS is usually too low. In addition, BIAS and Record Level influence each other. What could be the reason for this?

what is the usb to serial adaptor you are using? I just ordered one of these (in transit still)

My TS-859Pro+ is still going strong after 14 years of continuous service. I guess they don't make 'em like they used to.

I was really hoping that this would be my problem, as I had multiple bouncing keys. Finally took it apart today, and it would appear the joints are good. Likely my problem is corrosion in the switches as other people have had issues with. Of course you have to desolder every switch just to remove the face plate and disassemble the switches themselves. Still a great video!

My 451+ suffered from this. Just replaced it with a 673A last week with a Truenas Scale box as a backup that syncs once a week. Lucky for me that QTS on the 673A sees all my data from the drives from the old qnap.

Hi Bob. Very helpful and informative video!. Am curious, what did you do as a long term solution?

These are some of the most reliable of the original c64 power supplies. Those power supplied are NOT known to go bad. You are thinking of the potted ones. You could just change the caps and replace the regulator. Myself as a experiment I wired a inline Aliexpress dc to dc converter for the 5v ouput. All of the insides are left as they are. I do plan to replace the inside of a Sinclair 48k power supply as they get too hot even without being potted but this c64 power supply didnt need what you did.

Is there any bug free CPU that this motherboard can accept?

Great video mate! The best NAS in my opinion is one where you can simply remove your drives and access the data via Linux/Windows... Obv if the data is encrypted at rest, that's a different issue... Cheers from Africa

Thank you, I was able to repair my keyboard. I have to say, this is a terrible design by Logitech and extremely poorly made.

Thank you, you also saved my Keyboard, the"E" Key on my board had the same issue.

seems to be a decent tutorial, but i HIGHLY advice anyone thinking about buying a g413 to stay clear of that thing, it is misdesigned garbage.

My 251 die yesterday.

I am so glad I found these videos. I have had an Apple II clone board for a while now and it turns out to be one from this clone. It is completely unpopulated, never used. Looks brand new and ready to be used in production.

Thanks for the video. My 251 has packed it in, and from what I’ve seen around, same problem. I am one of those individuals not confident soldering on the board, so I really appreciate what you’ve shown here. Thanks again.

I just bought one, good review. I'm not going to dive back into 8-bit coding again.

I had the C.U.C. 80 column card with auto switch mode. U fortunately all my stuff was stored at my parent's house and got thrown away when they moved😔

Just had this issue with ts-251, resolved with 100ohm to 1 and 8

for the GAL, I would not have selected the "encrypt chip" option...

logitech used to make good products, now they are so expensive and they break easily.

I would have bodged the diode on the reverse side of the PCB, especially after already damaging the pads and traces, for easier access, as well, but I would have lifted the leg on the old one that was disconnected and merely cut it with flush cutters. If access to the other leg was possible once lifted, cut there. As long as one side of it is NC it could simply live on the top of the board. Ripping parts on these PCBs with needle nose is gruesome, and guaranteed to tear traces and pads.

I have some TTY machines with those keyswitches. I bought them as the specsheet said they used Datanetics switches, but they ended up as this style. I don't recall off hand what model they are, but they are rather solidly built.

Have you checked to determine if the power key on this clone acts as a function key? It looks too simplistic for that to be the case, but it is worth testing that.

Had a bouncing O and a failing CTRL. Just to be shure I reapplied solder to all keys.

Thank you very much for this video. With it, i managed to repair my old TC-K590 !!!!