Video

I have a gray cat bird. That can imitate cardinals and robins. I think they are related to mockingbirds. Its very tame and will perch right beside us and sing. And brings it babies around for us to see. 😊

I hear mockingbirds doing call alarms all the time

Great video.

I have to replace hydrostatic fan on my Scotts 1642 tractor. Any idea how to get access to it?

How do you check change or add fluid to the hydrostatic transmission.

How do you check change or add fluid to the hydrostatic transmission.

Yes as an alternative to a dog leash. The John Deere service manual recommends putting a nylon cord loop on the end of the spring and wrapping the other end on a small piece of wood to fashion a handle. I let the cord go over the engine shaft and slide so I could pull it just like the video. I was able to pull the front end of spring off its mount and release it slowly in a controlled manner. ***Use safety glasses!***

Also great vid. To the point, good camera angles, names for every thing. If more videos were like this the 66 im restoring wouldn't be so bad lol

Can you do this without jacking up the car? I didnt back it off a slot

The Industrial Revolution and its consequences have been a disaster for the human race. They have greatly increased the life-expectancy of those of us who live in “advanced” countries, but they have destabilized society, have made life unfulfilling, have subjected human beings to indignities, have led to widespread psychological suffering (in the Third World to physical suffering as well) and have inflicted severe damage on the natural world. The continued development of technology will worsen the situation. It will certainly subject human beings to greater indignities and inflict greater damage on the natural world, it will probably lead to greater social disruption and psychological suffering, and it may lead to increased physical suffering even in “advanced” countries. 2. The industrial-technological system may survive or it may break down. If it survives, it MAY eventually achieve a low level of physical and psychological suffering, but only after passing through a long and very painful period of adjustment and only at the cost of permanently reducing human beings and many other living organisms to engineered products and mere cogs in the social machine. Furthermore, if the system survives, the consequences will be inevitable: There is no way of reforming or modifying the system so as to prevent it from depriving people of dignity and autonomy. 3. If the system breaks down the consequences will still be very painful. But the bigger the system grows the more disastrous the results of its breakdown will be, so if it is to break down it had best break down sooner rather than later. 4. We therefore advocate a revolution against the industrial system. This revolution may or may not make use of violence; it may be sudden or it may be a relatively gradual process spanning a few decades. We can’t predict any of that. But we do outline in a very general way the measures that those who hate the industrial system should take in order to prepare the way for a revolution against that form of society. This is not to be a POLITICAL revolution. Its object will be to overthrow not governments but the economic and technological basis of the present society. 5. In this article we give attention to only some of the negative developments that have grown out of the industrial-technological system. Other such developments we mention only briefly or ignore altogether. This does not mean that we regard these other developments as unimportant. For practical reasons we have to confine our discussion to areas that have received insufficient public attention or in which we have something new to say. For example, since there are well-developed environmental and wilderness movements, we have written very little about environmental degradation or the destruction of wild nature, even though we consider these to be highly important. THE PSYCHOLOGY OF MODERN LEFTISM 6. Almost everyone will agree that we live in a deeply troubled society. One of the most widespread manifestations of the craziness of our world is leftism, so a discussion of the psychology of leftism can serve as an introduction to the discussion of the problems of modern society in general. 7. But what is leftism? During the first half of the 20th century leftism could have been practically identified with socialism. Today the movement is fragmented and it is not clear who can properly be called a leftist. When we speak of leftists in this article we have in mind mainly socialists, collectivists, “politically correct” types, feminists, gay and disability activists, animal rights activists and the like. But not everyone who is associated with one of these movements is a leftist. What we are trying to get at in discussing leftism is not so much movement or an ideology as a psychological type, or rather a collection of related types. Thus, what we mean by “leftism” will emerge more clearly in the course of our discussion of leftist psychology. (Also, see

Nice. My uncle bought one brand new and I was riding in the backseat with my cousins as he floored it on the highway. The speedometer needle was buried. So we were going over 120 MPH.

I don't think that spring is to push up on the shaft I think it's to push down on the pump to reduce oil bypass between the pump and center case.

Thanks for the informative video.

Well, the Scotts mower I inherited ( 50" Kohler 20Hp) runs like a champ but is now struggling up hill. I'm thinking the belt is stretched and I'm freaking out on how to change. This is a great video but no idea how to get the deck off and this all seems so overwhelming. I am pretty good at small engine repair but this is freaking me out. I hope to get this job started soon. I have the manual but nothing on how to service or replace this hydro drive belt. I cannot imagine the price I would pay to have a service place do this job.... Good Video in any case!

This happens so often in my neighborhood and it cracks me up every time 🤣🤣🤣 bc it's so obvious what it's mimicking

When I pulled the input shaft on myK51A, the pump shifted. I knocked the bearings off the old shaft and used it as an alignment tool to rock everything around until it was centered again and the old shaft dropped in place. I then inserted the replacement with bearing, rotating the shaft to align the splines. It dropped into place.

I cannot find the correct type of drive belt, I've tried two different sizes. Anyone know the part number?

Thank you so much for the Video, befor i think i have to open the gearbox but no needed ;) Nice! Regards from Germany Stephan

You forgot to put the seal back in.

So did you drop that spring down in before installing the shaft or is there already one down there? Mine is a 99 Scott 1642 tractor.

I just use a big screw driver and pry the belt off the tension pulley. To re install I run the belt up to the engine drive pulley and with a screw driver I get the belt back onto that pulley. I don't mess with that spring at all.

I'm on my 3rd pulley on my Scott 1642. Time or a new shaft too! Part numbers would be huge help here. I'm told this design is not fit to tow any heavy equipment like my log splitter or a cart full of a heavy load. I am not looking forward to this fix but have the unit off so I can also replace the shaft this time.

Is there supposed to be a retainer to keep the pulley on or does it just float up and down on the shaft?

awesome!

WOW!

I notice you suggested (Mobil1 15w-50 1300ppm of zinc) in another post. What type of oil do you prefer?

Awesome vid sir

Great idea with the leash. I just finished installing the new belt. This video was the first one I seen and made the job easy! I seen other videos with people forcing the belt over or getting a pry driver and muscling the spring loose. By far the best and easiest method! Great job, thank you!

I'm a bit late but my belt just shit the bed (got 22 years out of it). What is the part # or link for correct belt, anyone know? Thanks!

Have a Rockola 414 cabinet that has the bottom of the sides and the bottom itself weakened and delaminating from moisture. Rest ok. Should be fixable, I think. Trying to decide what to do for it. Very interesting video. Great job.

Great visual aid! I'll be doing this after my trip to Harbor Freight for my torque wrench.

Can you (or any experienced installer) please share the tips for removing the old rubber seal from the old shaft? I am having trouble getting it out. Thank you for the great video!

0:09

I just started working on my 66 Coronet and need to redo the whole break system . Was just wondering where you get your break drums from and if they have the wheel bolts on them

Good video. One of only a few videos where the preload was done right.

Thanks for the video, I am having problems taking out the old shaft

Did't refresh it no rings no cylinder hone basicly new oil pump and water pump and paint

Great video thank you, be doing this soon on my 66 Dart.

Wait.... what do u mean u made the mistake of saying k51 ABC? Is it not for them? I have the k51A. Will it work?

You are a life saver! John deere told me I have to buy a while new transmission cause they didn't sell just the shaft . Thank you!

What a beautiful engine bay! Correct hoses, springs, even the battery cables are right (my kickdown spring has a blob rather than a stripe, but that's debatable). I am also trying to do the factory look, only I am stuck with finding correct belts for my A/C compressor. Care to share what did you do to the manifolds? Paint the same as the engine, and let 'em burn off? Oh, and mine idles rough after rebuild, even though I sent my carb to Scott @ Harms automotive. I hope my ignition is the culprit, I'm currently using points, but have ordered a pertronix III with their coil. Are you still on points? When starting, I hear the starter make an ugly grinding noise, exactly like mine does... so does that mean it's normal? One last thing: please tell me where did you find those '68 dog dish caps? Or where did you restore them? Anything I barely find online is in rough condition. Anyway, beuatiful engine, beutiful car!

Hello how are you ? Good video, sorry what postprocessor do you use to that machine? It is possible use with vetric software ? Thanks

...From now on I'm gonna start bombing university...

Nice trick! I WILL be using THAT one.

Ahh finally someone with the same setup. I couldn't find a video on how to do this till now! The dog leash idea is genius. Thank you!

The hardest part of this repair is getting the damn drive belt off. There's no easy way to release the tension. I ended up having to take one off two of the idler pulleys to get the belt off. Not sure how it's going to be getting it back on...

I did it!!!

Wow that operator is good

Tip- If you can, pick up the front end until the mower is vertical, and tie a rope or chain around the front axle and secure it to a rafter, large tree limb, or anything to keep it upright. Removing the drive belt and that bastard spring from underneath it is almost impossible. The spring is the biggest headache of the job. I use a shovel handle with a wire loop attached to the end, and I put the wire loop around the bottom hook of the spring, and with the other end of the shovel handle on the ground, I sit on the shovel handle to stretch the spring down. ALSO, Tuff Torq sent thousands of these transmissions to John Deere with no oil. John Deere put 2.25 oz. of 10w30 in them. Tuff Torq recommends 5w50. When this thinner oil got hot, or got old, it would seep around the pistons in the pump, causing a lack of power. John Deere's warranty did not cover the transmission, and they lost a lot of customers. The good news is, if your hydrostatic transmission loses power going up hills, changing the oil to 5w50 will fix it 99.9% of the time. That is, if your pully or input shaft isn't stripped.

I did this thanks to your video I did this - credit to YOU Scatpack68!! I got the part off Amazon and this was my review: his isn't difficult, just takes some time! -- Before you remove the old input shaft, dump the old oil...I found out Tuff Torq now recommends a 5W-50 oil. I couldn't find that viscosity so used Mobil 15W-50. The Tuff Torq site has instructions on how to purge the air out of the unit after all is done.....fairly easy too. In all from start to finish about a 3 hour job.....and this is from someone who never took a transaxle out of a rider! In a nutshell....remove the cutting deck. Take a picture of the drive belt routing (you'll thank me for this!), with a ratchet/socket release the tension off the idler pully and slip the belt off of the back pully on the transaxle (my belt was fairly new, I put it on last year so I did not have to replace). I put the back hitch of the mower on a Rhino Ramp/w some wood blocking to get the rear wheels off the ground and chocked the front tires. Remove the rear tires, remove the brake linkage (cotter pin) on the left side, remove the F-N-R lever on the right side. The free wheeling lever that sticks out the back can be removed too, I found this made it a lot easier, it is held on by a small friction cone ring, I removed with needle nose plies but don't bugger it up so you can reuse it! Now it is easy, 6 bolts and out it comes! the rear bolts on one side are a little longer than the other side...I figured this out when putting the transaxle back on! Clean the transaxle up, I used a pressure washer but didn't get to crazy with it. Let it dry. Now you need a good set of Circlip pliers. Remove the fan/pully and spacers. take note on the order they go on. Remove the oil plug (Big Plug) and turn it upside down over a 5-gal bucket to drain the old oil, replace plug after so debris doesn't get in the transaxle. Remove the rubber seal on the input shaft, remove large C-clip, I put a pair of Vice grips on the shaft and tapped upward with a hammer. Didn't need too much force. Insert the spring (takes a little fiddling) and put the new shaft on. I used a 8" long piece of pipe, put a piece of wood over it and tapped the bearing down. Filled up with Mobil 5W-50 to about an inch below the opening, reinstalled the filter (cleaned with solvent), put in big spring and put the cap on. Installed back on tractor. Purged unit (instructions on purging is available on the Tuff Torq website)....IT WORKS LIKE NEW!!!! If I can do it, YOU can do it!!!!!