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Gustav Thane
Sweden
Registrace 7. 12. 2012
Making a fence in local materials: Gärdsgård build
To “close” the land is a 1000 years old tradition, to fend a garden with a fence, a Gärdes-gård. The fence is not brought here, it is grown here, erected in a matter of days, preparations were the real work, taking palace for almost a year. This land is by the border between West Gothaland and Småland (Sweden) and this model of pole fence is sometimes called a Smålandsgärdsgård or långgärdesgård.
I do not say much in the video, instead you may think of my work as a way to share the experience of nature and craft. If you are interested in knowing how it is done in a more verbal sense I tell you some of what I learned in this following text.
I chose to build the standing poles from slow-grown fir tree (gran). Trees as thick as my upper arm yet between 40-70 years old because they grew in a wetland under larger trees and are therefore more likely than other trees to last. The vertical poles are straight-grown pine trees (tall), equally thick but half the age of the firs. All poles are dried for at least six months before use to make them more resistant to the moist in the ground. The tar is made from a local tree as well, I produced it together with @smideripunktse from a single pine root several years ago.
The reason for sharpening the vertical poles on three sides instead of four is to make them press outwards in the ground without pushing themselves up from the ground. This is achieved by having the straight side face outwards, holes are pre made. The collars are also fir tree but preferably quick-grown with as few twigs as possible. They have to be cut down shortly before use, or placed in water or heat to keep their flexibility. In Småland those collars are often made from lower twigs of fir and there are several ways to bend and lash them, I split them and form them as the number 8 but others may not split them or sometimes even roll them up as the number 0. The latter was common in the olden days as a 15-year-later-repair since one can extend the life of a pole fence by simply pushing the poles down a bit deeper every 15 years or so, and put a collar on top of everything to keep poles tight.
There is a special trick to how the collars are made. There is always a 90˚ twist in the loop between one pole and the other, making the bark of split wood collars continually face outwards, this is largely achieved as a consequence of the natural twist in the wood. You always split from the top and always by hand, edged tools brake fibres and cannot be used. As you can see in the video the two sides are bent differently much depending on how the split goes. I always bend the thicker half more than the thinner one to centre the split. The trick, however, is to twist the fibres and mash them towards the pole in their twisted form only to untwist them before looping around the pole. This is not super important when poles are thick, but the collars tend to brake when lashed around a thinner pole if they are not pre-twisted.
Diagonal poles are alternately placed with the thicker side down and the thicker side up… but not always. At a good length, a diagonal is touching at least three vertical poles, uneven land sometimes makes that into a mathematical nightmare. There are several simple and easy to learn mathematical relationships between how often to place a collar and how long to cut the poles. I seem to remember learning that diagonals always ought to be 4,5-meter-long, collars are placed on every third layer and vertical poles are placed every meter… but I had uneven land and wanted a higher fence than standard so I never followed that math but followed my own instead. I placed two collars on the lowest three diagonals and then nothing on six and then two more on three diagonals… yeah you´ll see these things sort themselves out in the end… but I had some use of drawing things up before cutting down trees.
Anyway, what you see is how it went, it took me almost a year with the drying time and everything and now there is a fence. I even forged a special bark slicer... I did not include the forging here but if you would like a video on that let me know... I did nor bushcraft forge it but did it back home in my basement. However, I do not think I will have the time to make many videos the next year or so since I am busy writing a PhD dissertation, but I just got a building permit to build a forge so hopefully there will be a few videos around that project in a few years’ time, I’m thinking of building it as a log-house... If you did read this far I guess I do not need to remind you to subscribe, but if you wouldn’t mind writing a comment every now and then I would appreciate it since it make the algorithm recommend my channel to other people like us.
Take care
Gustav Thane
I do not say much in the video, instead you may think of my work as a way to share the experience of nature and craft. If you are interested in knowing how it is done in a more verbal sense I tell you some of what I learned in this following text.
I chose to build the standing poles from slow-grown fir tree (gran). Trees as thick as my upper arm yet between 40-70 years old because they grew in a wetland under larger trees and are therefore more likely than other trees to last. The vertical poles are straight-grown pine trees (tall), equally thick but half the age of the firs. All poles are dried for at least six months before use to make them more resistant to the moist in the ground. The tar is made from a local tree as well, I produced it together with @smideripunktse from a single pine root several years ago.
The reason for sharpening the vertical poles on three sides instead of four is to make them press outwards in the ground without pushing themselves up from the ground. This is achieved by having the straight side face outwards, holes are pre made. The collars are also fir tree but preferably quick-grown with as few twigs as possible. They have to be cut down shortly before use, or placed in water or heat to keep their flexibility. In Småland those collars are often made from lower twigs of fir and there are several ways to bend and lash them, I split them and form them as the number 8 but others may not split them or sometimes even roll them up as the number 0. The latter was common in the olden days as a 15-year-later-repair since one can extend the life of a pole fence by simply pushing the poles down a bit deeper every 15 years or so, and put a collar on top of everything to keep poles tight.
There is a special trick to how the collars are made. There is always a 90˚ twist in the loop between one pole and the other, making the bark of split wood collars continually face outwards, this is largely achieved as a consequence of the natural twist in the wood. You always split from the top and always by hand, edged tools brake fibres and cannot be used. As you can see in the video the two sides are bent differently much depending on how the split goes. I always bend the thicker half more than the thinner one to centre the split. The trick, however, is to twist the fibres and mash them towards the pole in their twisted form only to untwist them before looping around the pole. This is not super important when poles are thick, but the collars tend to brake when lashed around a thinner pole if they are not pre-twisted.
Diagonal poles are alternately placed with the thicker side down and the thicker side up… but not always. At a good length, a diagonal is touching at least three vertical poles, uneven land sometimes makes that into a mathematical nightmare. There are several simple and easy to learn mathematical relationships between how often to place a collar and how long to cut the poles. I seem to remember learning that diagonals always ought to be 4,5-meter-long, collars are placed on every third layer and vertical poles are placed every meter… but I had uneven land and wanted a higher fence than standard so I never followed that math but followed my own instead. I placed two collars on the lowest three diagonals and then nothing on six and then two more on three diagonals… yeah you´ll see these things sort themselves out in the end… but I had some use of drawing things up before cutting down trees.
Anyway, what you see is how it went, it took me almost a year with the drying time and everything and now there is a fence. I even forged a special bark slicer... I did not include the forging here but if you would like a video on that let me know... I did nor bushcraft forge it but did it back home in my basement. However, I do not think I will have the time to make many videos the next year or so since I am busy writing a PhD dissertation, but I just got a building permit to build a forge so hopefully there will be a few videos around that project in a few years’ time, I’m thinking of building it as a log-house... If you did read this far I guess I do not need to remind you to subscribe, but if you wouldn’t mind writing a comment every now and then I would appreciate it since it make the algorithm recommend my channel to other people like us.
Take care
Gustav Thane
zhlédnutí: 855
Video
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Thank you so much for sharing this. I saw these beautiful fences when I was visiting Sweden and I hope to build one for myself when I have a house of my own.
Yes of course you should. They are the best.
Very impressive. You have great skill. Thanks for posting. Subbed.
Thank you, and welcome.
Fat wood.
What uses has the pine tar for your purposes?
Pine tar can be used for anything from mosquito repellent and Liquor flavouring to waterproofing and rust prevention, but I made this tar to coat the tool chest I was working on at the time.
You did so well setting the teeth with a massive hammer I want to see how sharp it’d cut if you added a jointer and a tooth set and spider gauge to the kit. Well done!!!
It's not supposed to burn. This is very wrong
Yeah I know, I let too much oxygen into the bottom leading to fire and far to thick black tar. In my second attempt I handled this problem. That is what part 2 is all about. Check it out at czcams.com/video/EXPi-NLDSYo/video.htmlsi=Y-V6RAi1XveBeNWT
Interesting video!
Thank you, yes tar is a fascinating thing to have, such a versitile material.
Very very impressive. All done with two axes or one axe? What kind of axes and where did you get them? I wish I could get dimensions. They’re long and not very wide, hard dimensions to find.
Well, I used to sell a similar design that I forged myself. But these verry axes were forged under rather primitive conditions in this verry forest, sharpened on a local stone and hafted by wood cut by the axe itself. I had this idea that I wanted to make a wooden chest from scratch, including the tools to build it with. I recorded the process on 360 video and published here on this channel, the video quality was not verry good but the axes proved useful.
I wasn't ready for the vr experience 😅
Yeah, it can be a bit confusing. Makes more sense on a phone than a computer.. and the 360 settings on. I had this idea that I wanted to invite people to just hang around, look at something else when they wanted or just enjoy the scenery. Vr-headsets will be the future... but the quality was simply not good enough with my camera so eventually I came back to normal video again.
Excellent method! Thanks
Same method for making charcoal but with catch bason? Cool!
Yeah, but also filled with fat wood and also burned from the top rather than bottom, otherwise the same.
Still one of my favourite videos on YT
It seems that youtube decided to mark my comment as a spam.
Interesting video. This plane, while not perfect, was certainly adequate to do most crude wood shaping. Almost all woodworking seems to begin with establishing a flat surface on a tool. From there, you can get the rest of basic joinery. However, I can't find any reference that speaks to how wood planes were initially reliably flattened before industrialization. Just thinking about it, some minerals fracture flat, so that might give you a reliable reference surface. Alternately, if you mixed a loose slurry of concrete in a box, it would settle and dry flat. Or you could pour molten metal, let it dry flat, and put sand on top to then sand wood flat. So, any information you can share on how wood was initially flattened true for toolmaking?
Well, a flat large surface is quite different to a flat small surface, and the method I use here can be used to make an ever flater plane. In therory we can assume that the stone age technique of grinding three surfaces towards each other two at the time will allways lead to a perfect plane in the end. Just ad sand and water between the two stones and they will erode. In practice I assume almost flat is enough. Wood joinery may establish a flat suface to begin with but not much flatter than what a plane is providing. A plane gives you a flat surface due to the fixation of the chisel/cut, not the flatness of the tool. The tool is only flat to stop the tool from wobbling, at a surface large enough unwanted wooble tend to even out.
@@gustavthane2233 Thank you for responding. Didn't know about grinding three surfaces together, but it makes sense. I see that I was assuming a lot about the chisel. Was always curious about how it all started. Had the opportunity to see the shop of an old woodworker out in California who did restoration work. He had so many specialized planes and tools I've never seen before. He restored an antique china cabinet that had water damage around the base. Amazing hand workmanship. He lamented having nobody to share his knowledge with.
@@Xandrosi yeah, I guess planes are one of those things you can never have to many of, a bit like axes or teapots 'only one more, than I will be satisfied'
Do they make hatchets/axes with a flat side to avoid the axe digging in the the plank when flattening it?
Yes, it is common with axes that are flat on one side, it is a slightly different technique to use them, in Sweden it is called a "saxslipad yxa" I guess that traslates into seax beveled axe . Fun fact: the handle needs to be angled out as well so you don't hurt the knuckles but since the axe also needs to be flat past the eye the whole eye-area of the axe is quite different to normal axes.
Красивый забор.
Thank you.
Если надо много смолы и меньшими трудозатратами можно порезать ствол живой сосны до слоя где течёт смола и подставить воронку из бересты. Сделать таким образом несколько деревьев. Так добывали сосновую смолу позднее викингов. m.czcams.com/video/eOAXg0-NFWY/video.html&pp=ygUi0JTQvtCx0YvRh9CwINGB0LzQvtC70Ysg0YHQvtGB0L3Riw%3D%3D
Ah yes I did that some time ago but I did not get as much as I thought, it must have been the wrong time of the year or something.
Im curious...why do you call it pine tar when you use birch bark? Is it a mix of pine and birch?
Well the birch does nog give much tar at all when used like this, it is just there to guide the tar to the bottom groove. In birch tar the ammount and quality of bark is quite different.
@@gustavthane2233 Oh ok. I was just wondering. Its something new that I am venturing in to. Appreciate you sharing your video.
Участок леса, где вы занимаетесь своими делами, принадлежит вам на праве собственности?
It is not my own land but I have permission to use it, cut down some of the trees and use the barn for storage. When I was a child it belonged to my great grandfather and I played all summers long in these woods.
Спасибо.
Amazing videos as always, I love the info in the descriptions of these videos
Ah, thank you, it is nice to hear they are read, hopefully they make it easier to follow the process.
2й раз за 10 лет наткнулся на ютубе на камень вместо наковальни. Отличная проходная кузница, вполне аутентично. Спасибо за видео.
Thank you, I hopenyou will have use of it
It is good to see you again :)
It is good to know that someone appreciate it, thank you for letting me know.
I missed you bro!
You´re so kind.
how can we make biogas for survival shelter as i have domesticated buffaloes there s always a lot of dung left can you make a video on that it will help in my stove and furnace in an old fashioned way
Yeah, that sounds like a project, I´ll se what I can do... buffalo dung furnace baked bread...
How long will a fence like this last? Do you have to replace the pairs of upright poles in ground?
There are different numbers suggested depending on the durability of different materials. My slow grown wetland fir in this sandy ground will probably last longer than some other fences. Traditionally the whole fence is checked and repaired every 15 years. But if properly repaired Iit might not need to be totally replaced within the next 60 years. Yes the upright poles is the weak spot along with the collars. After 15 years I push down the poles another foot or so and then I put an oval collar on top of everything. The important thing is to ensure the diagonals to stay on top of each other, when they fall down on the side of each other the fence is no fence but a pile.
You should get _DeWalt_ to sponsor you
Yeah, I am showing how hard life would have been...
That's fantastically good. In her really well-made videos, her work seems to me like a medieval research experiment for a doctoral thesis. Best regards
If you don’t mind modern tools, it’s pretty easy to make in a microwave. Be sure to use an old junky microwave and don’t let it get too hot because it can catch of fire. One good aspect of this method is that you can get nearly clear pitch.
Interesting... I have been thinking of making clear pich as flavour for spirits... could be the way to go.
@@gustavthane2233 Oh, my, I remember some pine resin flavored liquor from the Alps. Interesting stuff, but it was still difficult not to think of drinking Pinesol floor cleaner. And then there’s Greek Retsina wine, which gives the worst hangovers. But I don’t mean to discourage you on your explorations!
So cool
This kind of knowledge will always be useful.
It will, but I also believe we have some of this in our genes, the urge to live close to nature.
You don't explain anything. Why or what reason to the method..... so nope!
But I do. Over 900 words. First i describe the context, that this is an old Swedish way of making tar, then I get into the hands-on method of what I did and then eventually a short section about the resulting tar... so yup 😀
Price of lumber back without saws📈
He he, well I guess some things are priceless.
Very good work! Exactly what I was interested in.
When, historically, did hndsaws come into play?
Well, since they are not quite needed, most tasks can be done with an axe or knife, I guess they are alot younger than axes, but I seem to remember something about the ancient Egyptians... But its been some time now since I did my research so I can not say for sure. What I do know is that there was a saw in the Mästermyr chest, and the tools are considered to be of Roman style, according to people knowing more than me.
@@gustavthane2233 thank you. I didn't realize they went back that far. I was watching an episode of "black sails", a pirate soap opera of sorts, that was set in the 1600s and they had bucking saws on set. I didn't know if that was accurate.
You have inspired me to go outside more and you are basically living my dream i am subscribing
That is great, thank you for letting me know.
Is there a video where you actually use the pine tar on the chest? Or had that video not been made yet? Beautiful stuff, thanks for sharing
Thank you for asking. I have replied to peoples comments and talked about such a video... but now that you ask it straight out I took the time to look through the videos and I can not find it. In one video I make tar and in the next my chest is allready brown and dry... it appears the video where I applied the tar was never released. I know I edited it. The video where I actually apply the tar must have been the one I never finnished. It was a long one where I made the whole process into one coherrent story... but It became to long and I never finnished it. I am sorry, one day I hope there will be time for that.
The word that's inside the kiln has to sweat not burn that in turn releases the resin
You made a tool to make a tool to use to sharpen another made tool ..you are a primitive tool artist ur skill are awesome. For teal i would bye copies if make the for sale.
Thank you for the kind words.
Amazing .
I'm sorry I'm just seeing this.
Use of the rocka and old school coal forge is awsome.
Good video and beautiful setting .
How would someone get into blacksmithing like this?
I imagine that after the big catastrophe, the few surviving people would simply have to...
@gustavthane2233 haha, no I meant if someone like myself wanted to start forging like this, how would I start?
@@mayzonet first step is getting a bellows, some scrap metal and a place to be. If there is clay a bellow can be made out of that but I would recommend bringing the bellow and not build it. I brought a fan. When you have hearth just start hitting hot Iron with a rock and see what happends. The more you practice the more you learn to see in videos of others. Finding the land is the tricky part but I guess that works different were you are than me.
@@gustavthane2233 I guess its as simple as that haha, this is very helpful thank you. I hope you keep on making these videos, best of luck.
Hey, I want to thank you for making these videos, they truly do ignite curiosity to me about these things and Scandinavian culture. They are very entertaining and relaxing to watch, thank you.
Thank you for telling me, it gives me even more season to bring the camera when doing stuff.
Cant belive this viedo is 2 years old and im just seeing it lol For real .would b very interested in purchasing one if u make them for sale ?
not the chest... hinges though, those could be made anew, but not now, I am extremely busy the next year or so.
The roots and any damaged areas full of resin work the best for producing pitch.
very impressive. keep up the passion and hard work brother.
Rewatched this today again, what beautiful red tint it has, and I love the setup, too. I heard that this used to be a often practiced industry in Finland, too. Today I went into the woods and made some birch tar in the coffee can method. Sadly my yield ended up being just about a small shot's worth after hour and a half of tending to the fire, but it was nice to spend an afternoon outside, listening to woodpeckers and crows/rooks flying overhead. I love the smell of it, smells like fire and smoke...and of course the family absolutely hates it to the point of arguments, pah! What a way to ruin a man's joy of making something. :P How did applying it to the chest work? How long did it dry? And did you preheat it beforehand?
That sounds like an excellent use of your time, I mean it is not as much for the yield as for the time and experience of doing something of meaning. The chest turned out better than expected, but it took a whole winter for the tar to dry completely. Check out the video, I applied the tar warm, it made more sense at the time.
@@gustavthane2233 Thank you for the reply! It has been a nice afternoon, I just wish I remembered to pack a sausage or at least a potato to cook in the coals, hah! I am rather inspired by your chest, so after I figure out the next iteration of the bellows, that is the next project. Afterall, if I want a travelling smithy, having a toolchest sounds like a good idea, hah! Are you planning to make more videos by th way, come spring again?
@@Erikreaver I do have one more video that I never quite get the time to edit, but I hope yo get it done during the hollidays. Otherwise I am afraid it will be some time before I get to bring the camera ahain... but I am constantly planning and dreaming.
As Gen x I love this stuff it has a 1000 uses in craft, but the Millennials are probably asking is it gluten free.
"Wahhhh im better than the younger generations waaahhhhh look at me im so tough"
Nice video, greetings from norway! :)
Greetings 🙂