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What a pleassure to watch this video man.. i've been waiting to the more of all the intake mods since you did on hussy, great product you design brother so other people already have their set up ready to instal EFI if they want or go carbureted. Love it, oh and how's hussy now? Is the engine back in after the rebuild when it over rev'd or is still in progress? I just wanted to know, keep up the work and sharing this type of content to us man, I Really appreciate this💪

Wonder if a fella would do this to a 12bolt PES manifold and do a fuel tech or something similar to run the 6 individual injectors. Definitely think a better gain and more efficient manifold then the ossi or Clifford style manifold. Very very interesting video!

I like to know how many HP that combination has. Thank you . Very good job 👍🤜🤛

Hey, I am in Illinois. Are you wanting to sell the crossmember that you originally installed in the rusty frame? I am interested. I have just emailed you.

Hello friend, your project is very good! excellent work! Will you have the plans on how to make the intake parts? I have a Chevy Nova with an inline 6 250 engine and a Fitech 30003 injection system. I have the idea of ​​changing the system and doing it with 1 injector for each cylinder. greetings from Argentina

Good Info,thanks. I'm swapping in a 350 SBC in place of a 250 L6. I noticed the "6", and "8" stamped in the frame stands. Wanted to make sure of the proper location for the motor mounts for the SBC.

The ‘music’ is frickin annoying, wanted to hear what you had to say so the usual morons saying to mute it can go f*** themselves.

Where do I buy these?

They make a 8 " booster that's smaller or a side ways from a hot rod magazine for the cars on the 30s and 40s

Do you got some kinda build list you can post or something I’m looking for a good build for my 250 Also hp?

Thanks for your business, brother!

Thanks for being so thorough and informative. I have a 51 Chevy 3100 that has a 250 in it and for some reason a previous owner ran it with out side motor mounts. The frame is original so I am researching ways to correct the problem. Thanks again and GO RAIDERS !

It definitely looks very clean! Nice work!

Any other pointers would be gratefully appreciated. On a 250

Well, I’m happy that someone finally explained the difference. I have been told I had a 292. But I know now it’s a 250. Especially when it comes to motor mounts. Great video I love you clean shop Now the Chiefs cap 🙉🙉👍🏼 Thank you

Have Tinworks “ frame stiffener” mocked up in 75 c10. Detroit speed coilovers front and rear. Driveshaft would contact same area at full suspension droop. Time for axle limiting straps? I don’t think so on a street vehicle. Rework a 1450.00 chunk? Not too late to pull it out and eat cost. These chassis have the rigidity of spaghetti without some type of stiffener in the center, imho. I may raise engine mount 1 inch and trans mount same to get clearance. Whatever.

I came back to this video as it's squarely a great example. Bought a '69 Chev truck with this motor package sitting stock and have a real thing going for the improvements. I was going to ask you upon the fuel injection before I realized you wrote up details in your description. Thanks for showing your excellent work! Man those are great #'s out the BACK. Fine stuff

LOL , Glad I found your channel !

What kinda work do you have done on that bad boy?!

Very cool

Didn't the old jeeps use GM columns?

Nice setup. I love TinWorks products. The welds are perfect. I wish they had a coilover rear setup.

sounds just like the 4.2 atlas when revved up. ive always loved the sound of GM straight sixes

My opala has an engine like that

What’s the muffler setup?

The '60-'62 front frame-to-cab perches, are different from the '63-'66 front cab mounts.

👊😎👊

Great Video! It's been the only one that I've seen where both suspension differences have been described fairly well. Thanks!

That 292 inline six came out of either a three quarter ton or a one ton pickup because the half ton pickups didn't have them.

thx for the video man... really couple of good tips for me on the frame... wasn't to sure about welding some holes shut on my frame but it looks way cleaner afterwards. What about the panhard bar bracket from REACT. Did you buy the complete Panhard kit? Not sure it the sell the bracket separately.

Good stuff! Thanks for doing the research & providing the great content!

Nice Truck! Thanks for the info!

My wife loves my in-line six, at least that’s what she tells me.

that looks great!

Where did you get your Frame mounts. I got a 66 last January and the mounts are Jerry rigged. It seems like the only way to get a set of mounts is to have a donor truck.

What starter is that?

I am considering swapping the 350 in my K20 to a 292 or a 250. Fuel economy and reliability being more important to me than horsepower which would you choose. Sm465 3.73 no towing but the truck bed gets used for hauling up to a ton on occasion.

so what were the numbers? built one out years ago but never got a chance to Dyno before I sold it

Cool power.

For what it is worth, my GM parts book for 79-83 "CK" Steering columns both automatic and manual transmissions used part #7805700. In the exploded view diagram it sure looks like what you had in your column.

Great idea and very nice workmanship. I am going to have look at mine and see if I think I could tackle something like this. Again, great job.

Impressive sound and acceleration.

Too COOL!

I had an 81 stepside that color in high school but while I was off at basic training, my dad got hit while driving it and totalled it. It's a difficult truck to find. Very nice.

Much to do about nothing. Tell that guy, Jayson...I'm available! You both need me. Vintage air..didn't mold the firewall in after all that paint and fender work...ALL of the holes should have been burnt shut and finished withbulk head fittings. It's not going to make any difference who moves forward now its going to be "pieced together looking" now. Everything is going to look like an after thought. You shouldn't be able to see nearly anything, but that's where experience comes into play. You did your best I guess. I could go on and on. But I won't. You built a 6 cylinder truck and you're talking about "its not going to be the best" ??? 500+ and a Currie 9 inch with gears? That truck should run out son! I have to stop. I have to go out to my shop. I'm still trying to find a single wire showing on my 72 C10. Maybe if I climb in the engine bay and look...or underneath? Probably on the transmission. Oops! I loomed all of it inside the frame I boxed and molded. I can see the lines! Does that count? Oh and the magnet thing...stop..just stop. Mask off where you are drilling...spend $5 on a drill bit stop with an allen key! Use insulated type stainless steel clamps. All that work and worry about getting it looking decent and you finish it up with magnetic zip ties? OK I'm done.

If the piston “wobbles” , or goes close to one side then the other, it’s not a rod it’s a wrist pin. Now with being said there is always room for miss judgement so you check and recheck. Not very many people can catch what you just did. They would just put it together. The next thing that would happen is they would have a knock that they could not find. But the head gasket would put enough space between the head and the piston. Sooner or later they would begin to experience trouble.

Now that I have watched the rest of your video and see that the rest of the cam lobes are damaged. I would have to say the engine has been ran very hard. But maybe you did not do that and if so you have cam problems big time. But looking at it it shows chatter in high rpm. If you have not done that then stress it very hard to the cam people. I think they will give you another complete cam with the lifters and valve springs. BUT check your valve springs very carefully. Now if you had your motor built then you need to get the builder on your side. Good luck as they say.

You can’t just blame the cam. I’m retired mechanic have rebuild gas diesel engines all my career of all kinds. It’s hard to put your finger on just one thing. If the valve spring was weak well there you go. Or if the cam was soft ok then there you go. Including the roller lifter even though it may look good. If the pin in that roller lifter was a little loose it would cause a high rpm chatter causing the cam to start to wear away at a certain rpm. The cure for it would be to replace the parts involved in that rotating line of movement. There are so many variables to rule out. So replace the lifter cam valve spring making sure that it is checked and followed through in installing in going back together. I really like watching a man going through the same things that I did for 50 years. Hang in there you can do it. Now let me watch the rest of your video……

That’s a really clean motor