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When buying Borla’s cat back it uses an X pipe. The stock exhaust uses an H-pipe. H-pipes provide a more traditional muscle car sound, while an X-pipe is a lil different, sometimes described as more European sounding. X-pipes also add a couple of horsepower because they flow better. I prioritized sound quality over a dozen more HP which is why I got the axle back.

Engine > turbo > cat > resonator removed > cutout > muffler I hope this helps.

WHY do people post shit like this? Nobody cares that another person also has the problem but is clueless how to fix it?? post a SOLUTION! Not that you also have a problem. Thats why people come here. For a SOLUTION.

Wow, Someone woke up ion the wrong side of the bed the morning of this comment I'm here also looking for a solution .. Ever think that people may comment years later after a video being posted, hoping they eventually found a solution. If you're that triggered by a simple question, maybe the internet isn't the place for you!

​@@UpcomingJedino one else cares about your feelings

Stock except for a resonator delete.

The stock muffler and tip is still connected.

Thank! That's exactly what happened to my washer today after moving it.

Yup, no issues at speed. You can carry on a convo without a problem. When at highway speeds the engine is basically just above idle so it’s not loud. Drop a few gears and it gets loud. No drone.

Same here

Zero issues. Ford Performance sells a tune that turns the stock boost (19psi w/ 21psi overboost) up to 25psi, so Ford has determined that as long as you stay around 25psi you should be fine.

@@6gears2freedom thanks for the reply man. I appreciate it.

I have that same issue. Did you find out what caused yours??

Terry Doberstein This can happen when the lip of the dolly hits the bottom panel while moving one of these. When moving one of these with a dolly, be sure to pull the machine completely against the dolly frame THEN tilt the dolly and machine back at the same time. This may be especially true if you are using plain standard dolly and not appliance dollies. The appliance dolly has a shorter lip the slides under the appliance. Also, the appliance can be strapped snuggly against the dolly to prevent the appliance from separating from the dolly and tilting back toward the floor and causing the dolly lip to hit the bottom panel and flexing it.

Yeah, the transmission went bad. See my other post below. A trans costs almost $400 so I bought a new washer.

Yeah, the transmission went bad. See my other post below. A trans costs almost $400 so I bought a new washer.

Matthew Hembree sometimes the thin metal bottom of the cabinet can get flexed upward. When this happens, the big pulls can scrub on the metal bottom. I have just reached in and flex the cabinet bottom back down. Also, if the machine has tension rods in the corners, the springs on the bottom of the rods sometimes get weak and allows the basket to drop a little letting the same pulley the belt goes around to scrub the cabinet bottom. These transmission have to have rivets cut out and disassembled to work on them. That is why I don’t really care to mess with them very much. Whirlpools were easier to work on in regards to transmission. The older ones anyway were, since the transmissions could be serviced by removing from machine and removing a few screws from the transmission cover.

I love the cracks and pops too! I get a lot of gurgling on downshifts and when engine braking at slow speeds, especially when the engine is cold and when the outside temperature is below 60F. I'm running an FRPP tune. You may want to look into a 'crackle tune' that will allow you to force the pops and bangs at will. While changing your exhaust tip will technically change the sound because you are causing the sound waves to exit differently, I do not think you'll be able to tell a difference unless you're making a hard turn to the side or down towards the ground. If the dual tips will still point out the back any sound change will be negligible. Exhaust tips are for appearance - mufflers and resonators reshape the sound waves.

I used the 2.5" QTP cutout. QTP markets the 2.25" and 2.5" as two different sizes, but if you look at the dimensional drawings on their website you'll see that are the same physical size - I called QTP and they confirmed this. www.quicktimeperformance.com/Support/Docs/QTP_PRODUCT_MEASUREMENT_2013.pdf I've had several people ask about the wiring - I'll put together something on that when I get some time. Thanks!

seriously?

I agree. Low compression motors with out extra cam duration have no special sound. Theyr either loud or not.

Nope, works great. I shoot the butterfly valve with a little liquid wrench every few weeks just to keep the black exhaust carbon from building up.

@@6gears2freedom nice, thats good to hear i had my car fully straight pipe with a catless dp for like 2 weeks and it was way to loud, so i ended up installing my rear muffler back on but now, its too quiet lol and here I am

Hey actually i think i got the jist of it but does your ST have a catless downpipe? What are your exhaust mods here in this video? I want to do what you did... I currently have a CNT catless downpipe with a resonator deleted.. thanks for the info.

The car still has the stock cat, but resonator removed. The different sounds in the video are with the cutout open and closed. When the cutout is closed everything flows through the stock muffler.

@@6gears2freedom Thank you! I ordered my cutout last night... thanks for the video as it helped me with my ordering decision. Super excited i'll have to make a video and share it with you. yours and mine are the same other than i have a cnt catless downpipe

I went to the muffler shop.... do you have any pictures showing behind 1:43 ? The muffler shop guy wants to see exactly what you guys did back there.... any info would be helpful! I'm dropping the car off tomorrow a.m. Thanks again

@@josholand Hi Josh, Sorry I don't have any pictures handy, but there really isn't too much to see. I just ground the end of the collector pipe to match the curve of the car's stock exhaust bend. From there, plasma cut a hole in the stock exhaust and welded the collector on. Make sure you angle the collector so when you've added the cutout and turn-down you still have clearance under the car. I didn't want mine to be visible below the rear bumper. I hope all goes well for you!

Did you delete your resonator?

It's a 2007 with just a Borla axle back (part # 11815), stock H-pipe.

@@6gears2freedom sounds really good wanna get that same sound for my 2012 Vert

I bought the QTP (Quick Time Performance) cutout at Summit Racing... www.summitracing.com/parts/qtp-qtec25

Yes - plasma torched a hole in the stock exhaust tube just before the muffler and welded in a header collector flange to provide the 3-bolt mounting flange for the cutout. I also cutout the resonator and welded in a SS straight pipe.

What size collector flang did you have to by?

@@6gears2freedom what size collector flange 3 inch?

@@geoffreylindow738 I bought a stainless steel 2.5" (3-bolt flange side) to 2" (car exhaust side) collector-reducer off eBay. I could only find a stainless steel one on eBay. You can get aluminumized steel ones from Jegs/Summit.

The sound only changes inside the cabin. No sound change outside the car.

I have a convertible and need to know how loud it is.