Video

I'm having the same problem. How can tell if I don't have electric continuity on my bus wire? I did have to take a loose a couple suitcase connectors. Also I think I need to use smaller gage wire to connect to the panel 12 gage doesn't fit looks like.

If you’re running DCC trains with sound on, the comparison may be pointless?

took me an hour to finally find this video on youtube showing the whole unboxing process. Thanks for sharing this great video.

I see that this loco is a Phase 3, 70 tonner, which in my opinion are the best of the 70 tonners Bachmann has made. The trucks use a brass or bronze bushing for the axle bearings, which is way better than the plastic of the phase 2 (with 5 holes in the bottom truck cover). The gearing seems to be better also, with less slop in the gears. All my 70 tonners are equipped with phase 3 trucks. As for the noise, most of that noise disappeared when I installed a different decoder. I currently use Digitrax DH126D or DH166D decoder. My 70 tonners run like a swiss clock now. I also discovered that the trucks are too rigid in the frame, so I file the slots of the truck tower to open that up to allow the trucks to swing, which lets the truck move and keep better contact with the rail. File the TOP of the slot, and not the bottom or you could change the height of the loco and couplers. Doing this should also let the trucks turn much easier. Have fun and enjoy your 70 tonner!!! Dave

Man , thank you !!! Had nce boxed up for years , didn't have flat cable only other , thought it was chip ?? Power supply ?? Cab worked but no show 😅 wtf ... came across your vid , thanks a heap🎉

Thank you sir! Flat wire who knew.

Thanks so much, this was incredibly helpful in rebuilding my BN GP9

Otimo tudo perfeito parabéns aos EUA tudo muito bem organizado

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Wrote 35 years ago,, And the would is still the same

I'm working on building an hon3 boxcab on a narrowed Bachmann GE 45T chassis with a 3D printed body right now. A little bit different project but I might have some thoughts on yours. I have boxcab problems for sure. I actually have a few of the MDC boxcab track cleaner kits sitting here, and I think an incomplete motorized kit I was going to do something. Anyway, I can use these for discussion reference. The 44 tonner chassis is a good way to go. I can tell you the original MDC chassis is from the stone age. Had one years ago. To say it was crude is being polite. I'm not entirely sure if the 44 ton wheelbase is right for the MDC boxcab, the 70 tonner might be better. I'll have to check my library of boxcab and early GE blueprints. Were you looking to do a boxcab with end platforms or one more like CNJ 1000? I went the CNJ 1000 route with my project. No end doors on mine.

That's HO? I'm having fits trying to pull the shell of an N scale.

The greatest things happen when you're not as prepared as you like,or when you run out of film.This video and subtle commentary brought back lots of memories.I was hooked just watching the on the fly switching,which I may have done in my later years.Anyhow I grew up by an overhead rr bridge during the PC days.It was on the mainline between Pitts and Chicago with a siding under the bridge from the obsolete 4 main.Most of the engines were black but we knew the difference between the whining geeps,the thumping uboats and the thrashing alcos.ps I will finish the rest of your video and hope you have posted more

I got one that just won't go but we can push it around so idk if it's the berring. I'll try to double break thing and see if I can get it to go like you did lol.

this is the type of railfan i am the switching videos are what, chasing road trains just to watch cars go by, is like counting sheep

Needs better focus but sound is excellent...overhead gives engine sound!....

I think a more accurate way would be to run a locomotive as your test, since it would create more noise as it operates. If one is seriously concerned about the noises a model train makes as its running.

Very nice job. Thanks for the closeups of various equipment. Thought I would watch a few minutes but I had to stay to the end.

The logistics of all this yard work, would give me a headache. :-) P

Great video! That GP10 IS THE MOVIE STAR !

Helo Guys.

great video, yes most people would need naration, I worked at Harrison St , sad to see the roundhouse gone, bake then BN serviced amtrak in the green building where 261 is stored, I started at cedar lake for C&NW RR and ended up at Harrison ST

Cool

Looks like a GP-20 To Me.

Does Minnesota commercial use U-boat locomotives? If it is what model universal engine is that cuz I have no idea

Of some interest, but the standard for baseboards is now plywood in place of Sundeala so of limited relevance. How the tracks are fixed will also have a significant impact.

Lol

Cool

NO MATE THE CORK HAS A HIGHER PITCH SOUND

Cork muffles........although certain parts of layout can be without,its all about the sound you prefer and the room acoustics,leg bottom felts can be used to help vibrations low.

Awesome song.

I use cork on the mainline and no cork in the yard and sidings. I do that just so the mainline sits a little higher then the others.

Do I care about noise ? No, I want simple affordable robust construction. Every interface is another join for defects to develop.in. From my point of view and having built many layouts, the only time I've used cork was where fine scale track has been used with the very thin sleepers that's part of the fine scale mantra. You need the depth of cork to develop a realistic ballast edge profile. I usually pin, but have stuck track down on double sided sticky tape. Once wet adhesive ballast has dried out most of the sound deadening has been lost anyway. So the question is WHY bother? It costs money, is an additional build process that takes time. The cork adhesive could introduce deformations and slightly uneven layer. All this for a minimal, if any reduction of noise.

I use foam and no cork and like it. I didn't hear much difference between the two, maybe just in tone...

Wow.... big difference. Worth it!

My Verdict would be This I would go Cork. The Put Balast under cork when you want to Advance to Another level of Model Rail roading.

Old school new School Cork has Been Around since Model Railroading Started.I would Use cork.

To cork or not to cork. That is the question!

RIP Gone way too soon. Gone but not forgotten.

Good video. Did you say EEthorn? It's pronounced Athearn (AAF-Thern).

Real track is elevated on a Ballast bed. Usually only Sidings and Yards have track that appears in the Flat.

good day from Ont. I have cub cadet like it , slow in reverse . Interesting that these seized. Thanks

They appear to be equally loud, just different frequencies.

Did your squeak come back? I am the original owner, new in box, of a proto 2000 gp30. I looked at the same shims as yourself, though mine were the same as yours.

There are many videos about the benefits of placing the rails on a cork bed. A plywood top and plywood frames seem to amplify sound in the same way as the body of an accoustic guitar does. Has anyone tried applying sound deadening material to the underside of the board and frames?

I was wondering where the screws were to get the body shell off and now I know. Thanks for posting !

RIP. Great great guy.

Rest In Peace, Mac. You're gone, but not forgotten.

Seriously good question, though I suggest there are a couple of other factors to consider: 1) Glued ballast alters the sound profile. Does it negate the value of the cork? 2) is the undesirable sound coming from the rails/wheels or a reflection from the foam/cork/ballast (and possibly add scenery to this list too) 3) could a sound deadening material under the baseboard help (i.e. is the bottom of the foam / plywood a transmitter? 4) is the plastic rolling stock amplifying the sound in some way?

I like that song