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Fabricobble Tech
United States
Registrace 13. 01. 2022
Why pay someone to fix it wrong when you can give it a go yourself?
1985 4x4 Dodge Power Ram 50 (Mitsubishi Mighty Max) Mini Truck Suspension Restoration
Doing a COMPLETE overhaul on 4X4 Dodge Power Ram 50 otherwise known as Mitsubishi Mighty Max.
00:00 - Walkaround Overview
05:44 - Suspension Steering Linkage Inspection
07:49 - Remove Shock Absorber
08:04 - Remove Torsion Bar
10:05 - Separate Tie Rod End
10:25 - Remove Brake Caliper
10:59 - Remove CV Axle Snap Ring
11:58 - Remove Wheel Hub and Rotor
12:30 - Separate Ball Joints
13:14 - Remove Bearing Races
13:59 - Install Bearing Races
15:33 - Replace Disc Brake Rotor
16:03 - Replace CV Axle Bearing
18:25 - Pack Wheel Bearings
19:40 - Set Bearing Preload
21:32 - Install Locking Hub
22:00 - Remove CV Axle
22:20 - Remove Upper Control Arm
23:27 - Remove Control Arm Pivot Shaft
24:15 - Replace Ball Joint Upper Control Arm
25:12 - Install Pivot Shaft Upper Control Arm
26:48 - Remove Lower Control Arm
28:38 - Sway Bar
28:49 - Rebuild Steering Rod Assembly
32:27 - Replace Lower Control Arm
33:54 - Replace Torsion Bar
34:19 - Replace Brake Pads
35:35 - Replace Upper Control Arm
35:58 - Replace CV Axle
36:19 - Replace Shock Absorber
36:33 - Replace Steering Knuckle
39:06 - Replace Brake Caliper
39:21 - CV Axle Shims
40:27 - Set Torsion Bar Ride Height
40:58 - Torque Control Arm Bushings
00:00 - Walkaround Overview
05:44 - Suspension Steering Linkage Inspection
07:49 - Remove Shock Absorber
08:04 - Remove Torsion Bar
10:05 - Separate Tie Rod End
10:25 - Remove Brake Caliper
10:59 - Remove CV Axle Snap Ring
11:58 - Remove Wheel Hub and Rotor
12:30 - Separate Ball Joints
13:14 - Remove Bearing Races
13:59 - Install Bearing Races
15:33 - Replace Disc Brake Rotor
16:03 - Replace CV Axle Bearing
18:25 - Pack Wheel Bearings
19:40 - Set Bearing Preload
21:32 - Install Locking Hub
22:00 - Remove CV Axle
22:20 - Remove Upper Control Arm
23:27 - Remove Control Arm Pivot Shaft
24:15 - Replace Ball Joint Upper Control Arm
25:12 - Install Pivot Shaft Upper Control Arm
26:48 - Remove Lower Control Arm
28:38 - Sway Bar
28:49 - Rebuild Steering Rod Assembly
32:27 - Replace Lower Control Arm
33:54 - Replace Torsion Bar
34:19 - Replace Brake Pads
35:35 - Replace Upper Control Arm
35:58 - Replace CV Axle
36:19 - Replace Shock Absorber
36:33 - Replace Steering Knuckle
39:06 - Replace Brake Caliper
39:21 - CV Axle Shims
40:27 - Set Torsion Bar Ride Height
40:58 - Torque Control Arm Bushings
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Where did you buy that dash?!
Ive got one of these over in Australia, wish i had this video when I rebuilt everything
🤦♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣😆👍 I'll loan you my spare tire anytime you really need it for this joke of the day.. Keep having them great day's brother. ✌️
Where can you find that kit?I knew a guy with one with a 305 in it I think he had 488 gears to.
I had a ‘76 2- wd , dark almost Carmel color bought in ‘82 had to replace the alt and a fuel pump relay but I loved that truck .. the guy I bought from had had painted it two tone with a white like the old full size. Beach tires and white spoke wheels it was a great truck , sh I’ll have held on to it ...
you sucks bro....explain better or don't do videos
New subscriber, l really like GMT400s 👍💯😎👌
Mine fought tooth and fricken nail to stay in. I tried a long set of needle nose pliers, but ended up having to use channel locks, which was more effective.
I usually don't like to mess around with the oil crank. I usually just get it down til the cam connects and then crank the engine til it falls right in. Works every time.
Good video.
What did you do about brakes? I have an 09 and planing on supercharging it. Only thing I'm not sure on are brakes. Should I do full 5 lug disk conversion? Should I do 5 lug disk front and 5 lug drum rear? Should I just keep them 4 lug?
@@MrMK211516 4 lug has more wheel options. Unless you are going to track it or do sustained brake-accelerate-brake driving the brakes are just fine. Throw some quality vented rotors, slotted if available/ and some aggressive high friction pads on the front. The rear brakes hardly do much of the stopping as weight transfers to front under braking. Drums stop just fine. They struggle after sustained braking builds excessive heat. That is when the discs shine. But rear drum brakes were fine even for autocross thing. Discs all around are better sure. Is it worth all the trouble converting for a street car Cobalt? Not in my opinion. If you were going to do track days then absolutely.
@@fabricobbletech thanks for replying I was already thinking I'd be okay. Thanks again.
I had 79 Plymouth arrow truck
Thanks for this clear video. I bought a ‘99 Polaris Sportsman 500 in Spain in a very good condition. I will change all oil and grease as you did. 😎
How to say someone ffuucccc...kkk your video😅
I like this video as very simple job. 👍🏼🤣😂🤣
ay im 18 and love the way they look.
What year
Hell yeah! This guy gets it
Horrible edit man.
Thanks
I'm an auto technician and I do chip repairs for a living. Let me tell you, this is not going to last
Lasts just fine. Degradation is not the issue. Getting a uniform fill is the hard part.
Do you still have the stick fuel pump
No. It's an AEM E85 pump. I'll have to look back see what suze
very strong
Hey man! I picked up a LUV a while back, and you have been the go to guy to learn from. Your scotch bright pad in the drill has changed my life. Haha Im putting my dash in today. I happened to see a kansas plate in your video, which is cool. From a fellow kansas fabricobbler, I just want to say thank you for all you do and sharing your knowledge. "Kansas, Its not that bad!"
Lmao, Kansas! Glad I could help
...the mikuni carb has 5 bolts, 4 around the twin barrels, easy to identify, the 5th somewhere, the manual doesn't say nor shows whereabouts ... where is it, anybody knows or has a picture ? G54B engine 2.6L AT Mikuni 32-35DIDTA carb
I looked that carb up and found pictures on ebay post. Looks like there's a leg on the corner directly opposite the corner with vacuum canister for secondary.
thx @@fabricobbletech ... found it .. different bolt ... actually, not a bolt but a nut that bolts on a stud mounted on the manifold body ....lower, much lower than the four other bolts at the top, to the right & front of the main carb body, low, on a eyelet ...the carb schematics i have from Mikuni for the 32-35DIDTA carb don't even show any of the installation bolts/nuts, best guess location is under the EGR valve ....
nice job mate.did you use gas on your mig or flux wire?
Gas
...the timing chain has a bit of slack, about 1/2" or so, on the driver's side ... passenger side is tight, the side where the tensioner is installed ...the chain, sprockets, all look good & shinny, no sign of damage as far as the eye can see ... should this be a concern ? G54B engine, 2.6L auto, gas ...
When are you checking the chain slack? The camshaft will naturally cam over and snap to positions where loabs are less engaged with valve spring. With the engine off there could be positions that allow slack on tension side. The tensioner only engages with minor spring tension with engine off. Pretty sure it utilizes engine oil pressure to aid tensioner when running. If chain is slapping around making noise I would be concerned.
awesome, thx@@fabricobbletech , makes sense .. update: ...rotated the crankshaft CW manually ... the slack on the driver side almost immediately went away ... two complete turns ...no bad links or bad chain rods ... one new question above
thx@@fabricobbletech ... update: rotated the crank manually, slack disappears ...seems ok ... all chain links look ok, no slack or broken pins ...
Can we get more vids of this car?
I hope to sometime. It's really hard to find time honestly! Even harder to find someone with time to help me take video
What driveshaft did you use ?? With the original rearend?
Had to have one custom made by driveshaft shop
Cool vid! BTW, be sure to adjust the hen-way.
What the heck is that? Lol
it is On sale ??
Not at the moment. I use it all the time!
Right when I've been in the market for a new daily I came across your channel. Thanks for the chevy luv inspo.
Bro pull the radiator ad maybe the core support! Way easier
Radiator is out. Core support has to be cut. Didn't want to cut it but Definitely would have been way easier
I love it man not fake it's the way shit usually goes lol.
In 76 400 hp was huge most cars were under 200 hp
This truck was under 80hp. Probably under 50hp now lol.
Do you have a website that shows all of your suppliers for LUV parts? I have a 1980 that I got back in 87/88 that I am starting to restore. It would be great to have a head start for where to find parts.
Certain parts are definitely hard to find. If you have something specific you see that I sourced, I can look back and try to provide information where I got it. Pretty sure I ordered this dash cover off Amazon. But I've got a number of other parts from ebay, rockauto, and private sellers. Still to this day would love to source a quality windshield gasket. I ordered one from Thailand. After 2 months in the sun it's all cracked and complete garbage. Would been better off leaving in the original
😂😂😂 funny guy
You should weld a tractor pto thing to it so you can use the drive shaft as a generator or something
It could generate electricity but at the expense added fuel cost from all the extra drag. Also wear out trailer tires for same reason. No such thing as free energy!
First thought was “liability” but I don’t mind an engine spinning like Miley Cyrus 😂 I would be the liability checking how fast it can spin…😅
What other years have that gear ratios that would bolt right in?
Nice work
Thanks!
Nice
Sweet vmax
I think that cold air intake would pair great with my turbo.
Better than a hot air intake
Cool old truck, but that would have been considered a 1.5 ton truck instead of a 1 ton. The 500 was the "replacement" for the 1510 (it was the same truck, just got new numbers).
I'm definitely no expert on them. I'll admit, information was actually not easy to find. May have had better luck researching under 1510 instead of 500 since in wasn't a 500 for long before being discontinued. Thanks for info!
It’s so great to find videos of guys working or even owning these trucks. I have my grandpa’s he bought new and 4 others. All 91s but besides body changes they are the same as the first gen’s.
Honestly pretty good little trucks. I'm probably silly for restoring this unit. Should be a solid work truck if I get engine restored
Light UTILITY VEHICLE、 COOL ！！
Those lock protectors were strictly an aftermarket stick on thing so you didnt scratch the paint if you missed the hole. My old man bought an 86 2wd new. The east coast rust finally took it off the road in 1998. Canadian truck, with a non mca jet head. Pretty sure its still hiding in the back 40 at his place.
Thanks for the info! Mine has the jet heads. And I think the head is cracked. It's awaiting more surgery.
At 21:28, that is an awesome torque screwdriver you have there!!! Great video.
Love these Little Trucks, Nice Sound Effects.
The natural tool sounds were blowing out my mic and audio was garbage so I improvised lol. Loud tools aren't that pleasant to listen to anyway
Great stuff, as always. You’re a brave man to rebuild the front hubs.
The wheel bearings and axle bearing? I didn't actually break into the locking hubs. They seem to work fine and have little use so I left that mess in tact lol. A lot of parts jammed in that little hub it looks like.