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Your wife needs to buy you a label maker. 🤣🤣🤣

0:04 I wonder if two 12v glow plugs in series will work on a 24v system. I used to charge new 6v battery’s like that on 12volt. Your heat exchanger is it to send heat back through inlet so your not heating cold air?

My heater got us through a cold winter with snow and ice storms, but now it's 27 outside, and I'm enjoying having my windows open. My next job is to reconfigure my exhaust heat scavenger, and convert my heater to 24v with a backup battery pack.

@Gary It is possible that the reason for there being a difference in the expected pump frequency is because doubling the fan speed doesn't necessarily equate to doubling the airflow. With regard to the program in the microcontroller it almost certainly uses one or more lookup tables and several algorithms which use the lookup table data and readings from the temperature sensor to arrive at the pump frequency:detected fan speed ratio. Ultimately these heaters are limited by the combustion air inlet cross-section, the area of the mesh that fuel can be evaporated from and the efficiency of the burner fan.

Hi Gary! Have you noticed a cleaner burn with two glow plugs?

Nice. I'm curious to see how it works out. I use oxygen to clean my burn chamber -> czcams.com/video/U7F2BcwWPI8/video.html It works on the flat surfaces too, but you have to hit it with the torch pretty good , then the O2. The flat metal comes clean like sand blasting.

Why bother making an exhaust insert for Chinese motorbikes advertised to bring their engines into Euro 6 spec if the bloody thing Melts! It’s the chocolate Tea pot syndrome 😡

ahhhhhhhh.... drat.... agree with you that thing looked like it had so much potential.....

Sorry. But what is the 240v to 12v power supply are you using as I sick of buying power supplies Thanks in advance

where did you get that insert thingy?? what device is it normally used in? Or did you make it?

They definitely don't make it easy to clean the burn chambers. The junk inside there gets as hard as concrete. Guess that's why replacement ones are cheap.

It may work at regulated 24v to 10amp .But not at 800amps 😂

Well, it _would_ work, but only once! Exciting!

if it helps..... you can use a glow plug as a rudimentary temp sensor. elec current + metal= Heat@GP is same as Metal + Heat@Gp (from out side heat source)= Elec. current

That was awesome. Thanks 😂

Just run the part number. They are 320V6

It’s out of either my S Class or Vito. The 10mm head I believe is Vito. Just looking for the S Class that I’m sure are 8mm on the CDI320V6

what era of MB that out Glow Plug out of?

Excellent work sir! I fully intend to plagerize your afterburner concept. I would like to pick your brain? I want to build a verticle burner for hydronic boiler. Have you tried a verticle burn? Mine leaked a bit of fuel...

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

If I could, I'd send you one just to see it pop. 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍

I smashed the thumbs up 24 times, how about that?

I tested the voltage feed off my ECU before. czcams.com/video/zOz6a-58Gms/video.htmlsi=k84ZGiH9IuszNqyZ

For high current, if this relay gives out too, you can go with a 3D Printer Hot Bed Power Expansion Board, or a IRF520 MOS Driver Module. I got one of the former for 5usd, and 10 of the latter for the same price. You can probably salvage the delay timer from the first one that burned out.

Yes full 12 volts. And they don’t make a 24v version.

Are you sending the full 12V to the GP?

Those flapping nickel strips were a stroke of genius. I can't believe how clean that burn chamber is. Very good, thanks. I'm still a little unclear as to how the fan adjustment is working WRT using a potentiometer. Maybe a quick schematic? The voltage is a useful measurement for fan speed, but it's really an artifact of the PWM. An oscilloscope reading would be needed to show what's going on there. I got a little hall effect tachometer to use on mine. Also, I just got a set of 24v components and I'm going to narrow it down to see whether the fan, glow plug, and fuel pump are _actually_ made differently for 24v. I suspect the pump and glow plug need to be 24v rated, but that the blower fan is the same, since with PWM it never goes above around 6-8v anyway. The ECU/controller is the same, and we'll see what it's measuring to determine if it can run on 24v. Just FYI, when you reply to comments, it's helpful if you actually click on reply rather than starting a new comment, that way the recipient gets a notification, and doesn't have to go scouring through the previously watched videos looking for replies.

It is not a pump that is pumping fuel into a closed chamber to create pressure, there is an open injector at the other end so the fuel just pumps through the line. You are a wally. Why would you try to measure the pressure anyway, what will that tell you?

these chinese diesel heaters are AFAIK copies of Eberspacher/Webasto oil air heaters. The company has been going for over 100yrs is worth billions and has a team of highly qualified engineers working on this category of heater. Their revenues are in the billions. So good luck finding a way to improve a highly refined design. Have you considered centrifuging the waste oil then mixing it with diesel or paraffin?

The Nickel strips work great, the extra drilled hole also has raised the burn chamber temperature to burn so clean it looks like it’s been sandblasted. Found a 1000c thermocouple to place right inside the centre of the burn chamber .Video to come.

I think your air filter is too restricted. If I remember correctly it will go into cool down if the air in gets above 50C

The blue is from the copper reacting with either the ammonia from the urea decomposition, nitric acid, which is formed when the nitric oxides combine with moisture, or reacting with the isocyanic acid from the urea's decomposition. The adblue isn't doing its job, because the cat lacks the metal oxide catalysts required to break the nitrogen oxides down into nitrogen, water, and CO2. What is happening is the adblue/urea is breaking down into ammonia and isocyanic acid under the heat. The metal oxides are required to then convert the isocyanic acid into more ammonia, the ammonia, nitric oxides, and water vapor into nitrogen gas, water, and CO2. The acids will react with the copper to create various medium/light blue copper salts, and the ammonia will react with those salts to produce darker copper ammine complexes. It's a fascinating subject, and you can find lots of videos on it here. Some are high explosives.

Yes off video I used drip feed adblue and the emissions drop by half. But it stank like a hairdressers on pensioners day, having their blue rinses. Very strong hydrogen peroxide smell. Yes plenty plenty of steam. You sound like a well educated tech I could talk to that understands the flip of emissions. Injection is not needed.

Say you do know a lot about bicycling

The urea/adblue requires metal oxide catalysts in the converter to convert nitrogen oxides to nitrogen, carbon dioxide, and water. Per Wikipedia- _"DEF is a 32.5% solution of urea. When it is injected into the hot exhaust gas stream, the water evaporates and the urea thermally decomposes to form ammonia and isocyanic acid (above 160 °C). The isocyanic acid reacts with the water vapor and hydrolyses to carbon dioxide and ammonia. Ammonia, in the presence of oxygen and a catalyst, reduces two different nitrogen oxides. The ratio between NO2 and NO determines which reactions take place and how fast. The highest conversion rates are achieved if equal amounts of NO2 and NO are present, especially at temperatures between 200°C and 350°C"_

Yes the 2022-2023 has relay on the board. This 5 pin relay also does the first systems check but spinning up the fan. Then the relay comes on slowly to feed the glow plug,and not like if you just connected direct to a 12 supply. It must do this to extend the life of the glow plug. I bought some of those relays just to pull apart to see what’s feed what and when. It’s tiny but rated at 20amps. I tried to, adding an another glow plug to the same feed. Both ways! Parallel and in series, but there just isn’t the amperage. So my extra glow plug is on separate timer circuit that works well. Taping a thread into the casting at the bottom were the grud collects is hard work and needs patience.

Oh yeah, rewatching this video and the glow plug reminds me- the glow plug is current controlled, which is probably why two plugs only burned half as bright. You can select glow plug wattage in the menu, it's "P" 1 through 6. 1=35w, 2=40w, 3=45w, 4=80w, 5=85w, 6=90w. It presumably uses PWM, which confuses me about the relay and the MOSFET, since it would be using a MOSFET to control the current, there's no reason it would use a relay too, and yet the other version of the ECU doesn't even have this large heat-sinked MOSFET.

Just burn the oil give it some air , and quit trying to re invent the flower

The combustion chamber is a wicking system. At no time is the fuel atomized by a mesh screen.

the air hole will be interesting. Don't think it will help....likely hurt. the oil is atomized by heat as you describe.. air is not a component of atomizing an oil. That said though a little air there may 1.. cool the mesh so it does not atomize well....orrrr. 2. it may cause combustion in that tiny area where would think you do not want that to happen yet (air is component of combustion) 3. or it will allow just a bit more air to help combustion further down the system where the combustion is suppose to happen? Be careful of #2... it might blow / burn things up.

It's just a solenoid with a small "piston," and a ball bearing as a check valve. I'd be surprised if it builds any significant pressure. Perhaps the best way is to measure how high it'll push the liquid, then convert that to pressure equivalent. You can find some good cutaway diagrams on research gate if you search for 'Visualization and Analysis of the Multiphase Flow in an Electromagnetically Driven Dosing Pump'

You would need to have a restriction of sort to build pressure. With the open end there is zero pressure just a flow rate. You would need to add a nozzle to create a restriction.

how would it be using a tank rather than a closed loop where the pump suction will interfere with the pressure reading?

Isn't it a loop? So it may ne circulating but not pressurizing. Try a gravity feed to the inlet of the pump. I've forgotten to turn on the valve feeding my pump before and it magically pumps air into the line to the burn chamber.

I live in rented property with a 1970 old boiler that works great. Just like V8 Range Rover did when it first came out. Both very heavy of fuel. My boiler uses £15 per day. £420 plus per month in Gas. I know buy £120 of pump diesel per month for being in 16 hours per day. I’m now in £1200 of credit for my winter bill. My project board is only for testing componants in an attempt to use less diesel as I’m adding freebee old oil. But keep it in safe emissions standards and yes, I do have the tools to test every single element of the emissions. Yes I love gadgets to even though I’m retired. But the goal was to safely heat my family that I can afford. So on number 1 setting (lowest) I get 160c which is enough to heat a 3 bed house through my old cat flap. 🙂

I am a gadget guy and I enjoy seeing how you have applied All these things together. does the cost of the All this enhance ease of use, and and how affordable is it comparatively? I'm putting my system together but it has to be usable for my family

Yes it was one David’s videos just after Christmas were he through down the challenge to conquer this chinease crap. Then he dropped out the project. I started in 2024 but he’s been on it 3 years so I don’t blame him really, as it’s bit like flogging a dead horse. Your ceramic wool I’ve never heard off. Is it a heat shield liner for a boiler? Thanks for the comment 👍

Hi mate just found your channel. I like diesel heater mods too. I've thought about lining the inside of the burn chamber with catalytic wool (platinum infused ceramic wool) in hopes it would stay and glow red hot. I'm not sure your flapping idea will work completely, as intake valves on an engine move a lot and still get covered in carbon. Have you heard of a channel called lowered expectations, he has done a lot of videos on modding his. I think he would appreciate your videos. Same with another channel called David Mcluckie, he would like your videos too.

Yes the chinease version is a throw away heater I pick up for $20 bucks. Say that comment again when you’re 65 years old and spent your 40 years with Honda, Mercedes, and McLaren FI R&D departments. I ain’t sitting on my arse watching Judge Judy with 24 inch pizza. If you don’t use you lose it.

The metal that would work well for your afterburner is the inside of an old catalytic converter. Cut the honeycomb out and flow your exhaust through it. Clean after burn