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Thanks for watching. I am not sure about the Liberty, have not had to work on one so far. I do know that the Commander and Cherokee are the same. I am confident in saying that if you feel comfortable doing the job that I showed on the Commander that you can get the Liberty done yourself. Save that money.

Correct

@@GreggFesto Thank you for the answer. Then will you give me answer for couple other q-s: 1) Why my Prius 3 pack voltage at some moment of brake regeneration can go up to 270 volts?(if you experience the same) Some folks say this is normal. 2) Can I perform similar test, charge/discharge, moving cells around, balancing on my battery even it is not so bad: Health test - 56% remaining life, voltage different - no more that 0.1 with most noticeable difference on 7-th block, resistance - 30 mOhm on all of them. Or do everything but charge/discharge (so I don’t have to buy expensive charger)? I Just want to prevent farther damage to the battery. Thank you

The HV battery pack will experience higher voltage during regeneration for certain which I also read is normal. In my experience the new packs do not turn the app readout "color red" as often when compared to used packs. I believe that lower capacity cells (batteries) cause this condition. You can do this refurbish on your pack and gain performance back. If you balance the batteries and then reassemble the pack in different order without refurbishing them on the charger then you will end up in same situation because you skipped the steps most important. The charger conditions the batteries closer to good health. The reason you will not have good results without using the charger is the pack batteries are assembled in series so the capacity of the pack as a whole will depend on each one of the batteries in the line.

@@GreggFesto Thank you Gregg for the suggestions. But returning back to overvoltage during regeneration for me looks like Battery Smart Module with its voltage regulator does not do good job of limiting the voltage. I have tried to find answer to this situation - can not find it.

You mention voltage regulator not doing a good job of limiting the power back to battery. Think about this - the battery is what should be absorbing the energy from regen, when battery does not have the capacity to absorb the power due to low capacitance then the regulator must find another way to disburse the power. In a new pack the batteries are strong and can absorb the power without issue. I suspect the regulator is working correctly but the batteries are starting to lose their capacity to absorb regen power which is causing the voltage to spike.

I agree with your logic on that one. Consider that battery borderline but still good. If you have the additional funds to purchase extra one then replace it but if you do not then I believe it will last long enough for you to save up some more money while driving around. I have a pack with a bunch of those borderline batteries, it comes in handy to drive on while I am rebuilding the pack that actually belongs in the car.

You gonna love them. Still shining super strong.

Thank you for watching and taking time to leave a comment. I appreciate it.

I saw one comment that said parking brake might need to be set for the 2014.

Thanks for watching. Glad to hear all is going well. I have not noticed a difference in a battery that takes more cycles to reach 5000mah when compared to one that took fewer cycles. When I do have more than enough batteries to complete a pack, I select the ones that have the highest discharge ratings. If you can cycle more times and the discharge mah is still climbing then you can achieve a higher capacity battery. Pay attention to the charge mah, if it starts to decrease over multiple cycles then you have reached the limit of that battery. If you go too far the discharge value will begin to drop over multiple cycles.

On some vehicles the daytime running light will flicker, there is a small inline resistor that you can get that will eliminate this. I do have flicker on mine sometimes.

I suggest pressing the button furthest to the left on each channel. You can see this at about 6:35 in my video.

Thank you for watching. The 7500mah CAPA is the max point that the charger will stop charging. The battery is rated at 6500mah but you set the charger to 7500mah because of the way it charges called "Delta Peak".

@@GreggFesto so, if I set it at 6500 or 7000 it won't be fully charged?

It will depend on the battery health. You can find more info on how it works by searching "Delta Peak Charging".

@@GreggFesto so, I got this on DCHG 1300. CHG 7500 mAh. On the first cycle. Should I run it 5 more to see if the discharge increases if not wat would it be the minimum discharge and charge range?

You should run cycles until your discharge value is at least 5000mah. If your discharge value does not reach 5000mah then the battery should be replaced.

Thank you for watching. No fan is required when charging.

My silver charger was purchased about 3 years before the red one. I have a video that shows comparison between them. The message "FULL" is the same as "END". Be aware of the buttons when a cycle has ended. If you press the wrong one then you will get no results. The red and silver chargers have different wording on the buttons but the button position for results is the same (I believe the far left button for each channel).

Thanks for watching. Prius V's should all be the same or very similar. You adjust them with screws on outside edges of housing. There are videos of this on youtube. I do not currently have one.

Thank you for watching. I have not seen this warning. I am not sure why it says this now. I suggest contacting EV-PEAK customer service for more info. Please write back and let us know what you find out.

Thank you for watching. I have been using the settings listed for years without issue. Adjusting CAPA to 8500 provides minimal benefit that I have seen and can leave room for overcharging. When running multiple cycles you can watch the "trend" of mah values on both discharge and charge to determine if the battery is good. The batteries will outgas some when cycling and I suspect this is what you experienced. The best way to know if the battery is still good would be to run cycle with my settings. If you get 5000mah or more on discharge and charge then you are good. Please write back and let me know how they do.

Thank you for watching. DLY = Delay. It should move past this step without issue. If your charger will not move past DLY on screen then you should check settings. If settings are correct then you should make sure that your leads are ok. If you still cannot move past DLY then you will want to contact EVPeak service.

Thank you for watching and providing feedback. Glad I was able to help you.

Thank you for watching. The discharge values are the ones to pay attention to. They will determine the actual "health" of your pack. Since the batteries are in series the pack will only be as strong as the lowest valued battery. This means that if you put the pack back together with batteries that have discharge value of 3900mah then the pack will only have about 56% capacity. I suggest running more cycles until you have minimum 5000mah discharge of every one of them.

@@GreggFesto Thank you. I will continue to cycle the modules. But one problem is that they continue to cap out at 7500 and the cycles just stop. Should I increase the capacity setting, or just keep manually starting new cycles on each module hoping that they'll break 5000 mAh discharge?

If the discharge value continues to rise after each cycle then I suggest to cycle again. There will be a point where the discharge value stops rising and will start to fall back off. There will be a point where the charge value will start to fall off also. If you can achieve 5000mah discharge or better I think you will be happy with the results. If you can achieve the 7500mah charge value at the same time, that's even better. please write back and let me know how your batteries do.

@@GreggFesto Hi Gregg, I finished the process. The end result was that 27 of 28 cells broke 5000 mAh discharge, and all hit 7500 mAh charge. Just one cell is giving me trouble and after 16 cycles, won't break 4300 mAh discharge, and although it broke hit 7500 on one charge, it dropped off to an average of about 6400 mAh charge. I've seen some refurb cells on eBay but they claim they're guaranteed to be at around 3.5 amp hours of capacity, and since my lone bad cell is already above that, not sure if it's worth trying. How bad is it to just leave that one underperforming cell in the pack? Thanks again for your help and feedback.

These batteries, when in the hybrid pack, are arranged in a series configuration so the battery with the least capacity will determine the pack capacity. The battery that is 4300mah discharge after 16 cycles should be replaced with one that has at least 5000mah discharge in my opinion.

Thank you for watching. I do not know the answer to this question. I stay on the side of caution and change mine every 7500 or so.

Thanks for watching. King Cuz and I love this Moog fitting relocation product, it really is a problem solver. It has been sooo much easier to grease this fitting. I do not see problem adding this product to any fitting that needs remote access.

Thanks for watching. I bought 2nd charger just to speed things up a bit. If you are not pressed for time then a single unit is all you will need. On average it takes about 3 weeks per battery pack with a single charger. I have received really good batteries from vendor called AloyHybrid on eBay.

It is extremely similar. DIY job for sure. Save that $$

@@GreggFesto I changed them still have a check engine light saying one is bad ..I cleared it too...no idea what's wronf

What does your code say is wrong? Spark plug, coil, or cylinder misfire?

@@GreggFesto says coil is misfiring in cylinder one car starting to run more and more rough....once mechanic said head gasket is bad...other says he didnt think so

It is possible one of the new coils or plugs is bad? One thing you could try is to switch the coil and plug between cylinders 4 & 1. Clear the codes. When code comes back you can read it. If it says cylinder 4 misfire then you have a bad coil or plug because the problem moved with them. If it still says cylinder 1 misfire then there is a different issue. Are you losing coolant? If yes, the head gasket could be bad. There is a kit you can get from most auto part stores that has a liquid which changes color if engine gases are detected in coolant tank. If you are not losing coolant I suggest removing the intake and checking PCV system ports. They can clog up and cause rough running. You can clean them out with intake cleaner spray and some pipe brushes. Let me know what you find.

New content coming soon Browndog. Thanks for checking in. I appreciate your support too.

Thank you for watching. The discharge mah is important because it is the actual capacity of the battery and what dictates how your car will perform. The maximum charge mah is limited by the charger. Both accounted and cared for.

Thanks for watching. Does this happen on more than one battery? What gauge are your jumpers? I have heard that some less expensive smaller gauge wire such as 24awg can cause issues with the process.

Both Lock and Unlock

The charger will stop cycling once the battery reaches CAPA. If the discharge value is not 5000mah then you will need to run it again. If the charger does not reach CAPA then it will proceed to next programmed cycle.

@@GreggFesto thanks for replying, I get that but is it normal that all the cells arrives to CAPA on the first cycle?

@@GreggFesto Also another question if in the first cycle it goes over 5k is that enough or would be better if I run it two more times to get it over 6k? or is the same ? thanks

You are likely to get CAPA message first cycle if the batteries have been sitting for a while. This is why I like to run 3-5 cycles on each battery, it will tell how the battery is health wise by seeing if the discharge value increases or decreases with more cycles.

I suggest running 3 cycles at least on each battery so you can see if the values are increasing or decreasing. It will give you batter idea of the health. A value of 6000mah discharge on your batteries will certainly be better than 5000mah. Remember that your pack will only be as strong as your weakest battery. For example if you have 27 batteries with 6000mah discharge and 1 battery with 4000mah discharge then you are limiting your pack to 4000mah. This is because they are all in series configuration.

Thank you for watching. I am not sure how long it takes to do a cycle as it will depend on the health of the battery. I set the charger up and check it a couple times per day. The whole process takes 2-3 weeks usually.