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@@single_cam9199 Luckily I was planning on changing out my seal too. I got my parts at Bmwpartshub.com Sunroof Frame Seal -Mini (54-10-9-813-413) Other parts Rear Weather Strip - Mini (54-10-2-755-852) Front Weather Strip - Mini (54-10-2-755-851) Good luck

Thanks, it will be better then it is that’s for sure person I got it from looks like he chewed the whole thing. bro,it took 3hrs to get off the amount of caulking they smeared from the glass over the seal and on the roof

@@single_cam9199 Lol. Previous owner must have seen the fix on TikTok FYI - clean out the drain holes and check that the drain hoses are not loose or leaking. Did a video on this.

@@luiscastro2020 Pelican Parts. Check my reply on another comment lower in the chat. Good luck

@@jpreezzPR there was a couple problems and not exactly sure which one fixed the problem. The coolant connector was cracked but that probably wasn’t the cause of the coolant light coming on. I replaced the thermostat assembly 2 years ago and it seems to have failed again. The replacement thermostat assembly was slow at opening and then it had trouble opening which caused the engine to overheat. After it overheated the second time, the thermostat is now stuck open. At the right temperature outside, about 89 or 90, I get the warning light that the engine coolant isn’t reaching its optimal temperature. The computer knows the outside temperature and calculates the engine should have reached a specific temperature after a certain time. These Mimi’s are a guessing game in trying to figure out what is wrong. Good luck

@@mcmcminicooper thanks!

@@MAS73 This is really strange. Sounds like you reconnected the battery several times during the process to make sure the wiring was correct but after the last battery connection, the car didn’t start. Is that correct? Did you only disconnect the negative or positive or both?

@@sf7760 the whole thermostat assembly housing is sealed or welded together. The spring can only be accessible by cutting it open which destroys the assembly. Not serviceable at all which is a shame.

Same

I could hear the AC relay trying to click on. The thermometer at the air vent showed that the AC was trying but not pushing the temperature low enough. I had AC problems with my van. I was pretty sure it wasn’t low Freon but tried charging it anyways. The AC system did not take any Freon, so the AC compressor was shot.

@@mcmcminicooper Can it be an electric problem? Have a 2011 mini hatchback and was told that the computer module does not work (headlights won’t turn off, windows don’t work, directional or emergency lights don’t work, ac blows air only, shows check engine light and brake light is on ) and it’s manual. Please help

@@Live_in_the_sunshine There was a recall on the footwell computer module. All those symptoms sounds like that module. Check out my video about the recall. I’ll look for the link

@@Live_in_the_sunshine here is video link on the recall czcams.com/video/q1Ypt2_26Ro/video.htmlsi=IZiLHG2alQra4s1d

@@mcmcminicooper how much around to fix? It has 59k miles one owner, no accidents at all

Check the MAF connector for cracks or loose wiring. Long shot, change out the air filter if you haven’t done so.

Don’t remember for sure. If you can push the connectors through the door and green rubber seal and have it lock in, then I would do it that way. I think I had trouble making sure it all fit and clicked in.

Most likely Mini buys the harnesses made from someone to their specifications. So the harnesses are assembled at a factory where they have all the tools and equipment for cutting, stripping and crimping the connectors

Better than removing the deflector which someone else did in another video. Good luck with your Mini

Yeah, the clunky noise for me was I didn’t bolt down the top shock plate all the way down so this left free play every time I hit a bump. Looking at it or even pushing down on the car doesn’t show anything wrong unless the shock assembly is pulled out again. Good luck

I like your suggestion. Never thought of connecting the thermostat assembly to crossover tube and then use the thermostat assembly as a way to push the pipe on. Much easier than trying to push the tube on by itself.

Thanks for posting the video, it was really helpful.

You can try to get a torque wrench in there but I tighten by feel. Most likely I tighten slightly more than needed.

I have not seen this. See what happens when the side windows are open too. Must be unusual airflow

Great advice!

Thanks (to your brilliant wife) on the tip. Great when there are victories. Great 👍

Agree

I just rolled them onto the groove

I believe mine is a "smidgin" too large...there's a wrinkle and I've tried working it all afternoon. Guess I'll reorder the kit or try to find a mechanic. Everything else went like clockwork, and say, thank you grandioso for the speedy reply...above and beyond my friend.

Check the connectors to the O2 sensors that they aren’t damaged ad full seated

I don’t know if they figured out how to fix the problem

True, Definitely if you never worked on car

The weather stripping around the door is a dry fit. It doesn’t use glue or any adhesive. It just presses on. Good luck

lol 😂

Get an OMB2 reader that will send the information to your phone (I think I did a video on the one I got). You’ll be able to see the coolant temperature and a bunch of other readings. If the coolant is not getting to fan temp to turn on (200F ??) then it may be another problem. In another video, I was having a similar problem. When the engine got to temp, my oil light came on. I suspected that 10W 30 was too light so I switched to a heavier oil and it fixed the problem. When the oil heats up it becomes even lighter and thinner. Also may want to check your oil pressure switch. Good luck. I had a very

Thank you for the information. I think you’re correct, it is the oil pressure. I monitored the temperature, with the car parked, and got the warning at 105c. If I increase the rpm (I.e. increase the flow), the warming disappears. I continued until the temperature reached 112c and the fan turned on. Whenever I have the rpm at ideal and temperature over 105c, the warning shows up. I’ll get a new pressure sensor and if it doesn’t solve the problem, I’ll put thicker oil. What viscosity do you recommend? Currently has 5w30 Thanks

@@ImadAssaf Mini manual list 0W-40, 0W-30, 5W-40, 5W-30 as recommended weights. Mini repair, Castro, and Oil in Car specify similar weights too. I switched from 5W-30 ito 5W-40 in the summer. Winter I use 0W-40 or 5W-30. Good luck

Thanks again!

@@ImadAssaf Forgot about one more thing I did. I read that some aftermarket oil filters may collapse when the engine heats up thus causing oil not to flow through the filter - drop in oil pressure. I ve been using a better quality oil filter since changing the oil grade.

I suggest getting an OEM replacement. The aftermarket I got had problems.

@@mcmcminicooper Which aftermarket did you get?

@@mrkzj Facet 78927K from Rockauto.com

The replacement seemed to open fully late, not until 221 - 230 F. After a couple of coolant engine overheating warnings, it seemed to have better the response. The thermostat opens sooner or is partially stuck open, not sure, but seems to keep the engine under 200 F.

The two connectors are equal to both the right-hand side and the left-hand side?

@@winstonpinedagerman2556 If you are replacing the connector for the headlight, which is a H13 or 9008 headlight lamp, then the connector needs to fit a H13 or 9008 lamp. These are common and sold everywhere, even in automotive stores. Dorman brand is a common replacement. Search Amazon for Dorman 645-303 9008 Headlight Bulb Connector. Amazon sells the cloth tape too. Here is one brand - Oyviny Electrical Wire Harness Cloth Tape 1 Inch x 50 Feet Self-Adhesive Wire Loom Cloth Tape for Automobile Electrical. What I've been using for the connection lately is an all-in-one shrink and solder. Here is one brand on Amazon - 200PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors - Sopoby Heat Shrink Solder Butt Connectors - Waterproof Solder Connector Kit Insulated Automotive Electrical Wire Terminals. The key is to heat up the shrink/solder hot enough to liquify and wait for it to cool before moving it. Remember to protect other areas when using a heat gun or you'll melt stuff !!!!!!!!

Hello , I put the headlights led to the mini cooper s convertible , as you indicated , that very well , thank you , but now I see the seal of the lights on the screen , every time I turn on the car , how to reset this , or how I erase them , please explain me , step by step , or in via me some explanatory video . please .

Typically parts that are marked L is driver side and R is passenger side, as if you are sitting in the car. Good luck

@@mcmcminicooper Thanks man! Changing it was a snap thanks to your video.

The coolant sensor connector can crack too. Mine did. I think I did a video on that repair too.

De rien!

I have not removed the exterior C pillar trim. I do not know how it pops off. I’ll research and see if I find anything

Look for a used on on EBay because there are pictures. Search “exterior c pillar trim r56 Mini Cooper” It looks like it held on by two pins and a hook sleeve at the bottom. Looks like the bottom horizontal trim needs to be removed first, pop the cover c pillar trim at the top, then push downward to unhook. See link of pictures. www.ebay.com/itm/382544356257?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1RaFeLQ8xQpS3ZsWLByAz7g58&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=382544356257&targetid=4580153139789005&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=437225722&mkgroupid=1224856224320848&rlsatarget=pla-4580153139789005&abcId=9300906&merchantid=51291&msclkid=ab1ea1fe078018082fc2c7ee7729abb9 Good luck

@@mcmcminicooper thank u so much it helped a lot

The external of the pipe is metal. The end that connects to the thermostat assembly is metal. The end and slots are metal. Inside the metal tube is lined with a plastic sleeve. The plastic sleeve extends slightly beyond the metal tube on the end that goes into water pump. The groove that holds the o-ring is plastic. I think they did it this way because it is easier to mold the o-ring groove in plastic rather in metal. The fails usually occur on the thermostat assembly end which should not occur anymore because it’s all metal. Good luck