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I am no expert on these batteries. I think fire is the greatest danger. I have used these in two of my bikes with no problem, but these bikes do not have electric starting. I never charge them when it is below freezing, and I never use a modern "smart charger".

I flew mine for 20 happy years. I sold it to a fellow in New Mexico, and I hope he enjoys it as much as I did.

Just sold the plane. On its way to New Mexico.

Taking something apart and putting it back together requires that you understand how it works and study the reasons why it is built the way it is. Examples: Why is this bolt longer? Why does this part fit like it does? What does this part do, or what is the purpose? You also need the proper tools to do the job, or be willing to buy or make them. A shop manual is a big help, as are taking plenty of pictures BEFORE you remove something. Make plenty of drawings or sketches.

As the videos show, the old blue paint was sound, so I simply block sanded, and painted over it. Inside looked fine to me, so I oil sprayed it. I am only figuring that this bike will last another 70 years, then this will all need to be done again.

@@Adventurepilot70 I faced that connundrum with square tubing on a free rusted out boat trailer I completely derusted and restored and converted into a 20ft ultralight aircraft trailer. If the piece had be off, I would of soaked it in a long tub of vinegar down to the depths of the rust pits (I did that with the two square axles). But it was welded on as the tongue and it would of been too involved to cut it off just to derust the inside, then re-weld it on. I was blind at the time so my stick welding skills was sketchy being unable to see a weld puddle at all under the helmet. I don't remember what I did... probably ran a steel brush through it and sprayed it inside with something the best I could. I had the whole rest of the U channel frame to worry about... so... the derusting of the square tube inside was not comprehensive and kind of half-ss'd. Drove the whole thing to Indianna and back from Georgia bringing home a free airplane, with the only part to fall of being one of the grease dust caps on the tires as the interstate up through Kentucky was an ocean of potholes. I was prepared with a spare however, and wrapped some clear packing tape around it by the side of the road to keep it from coming off as well.

Automotive paints are much better now than they were then. It took the Japanese some time to understand just how far we drive, and that we salt the roads. They usually scrap their cars at 4 years old, and they have very low miles on them. Steering wheels are on the wrong side to use here.

The pros of buying them is I'd have to setup and learn sandblasting, and for the first time have to take apart a motorcycle transmission and put it together, which seems incredibly daunting to me. The derusting, painting, and restoring part I've been down that road and can do a fair job of it, but finding the missing parts and getting the engines and electrics to work again seem like a masochistic journey to h377. I'll watch all your videos on it, I've already watched many by others on Puch restorations. I hate having to redo the same thing over 5 times in a row over and over again. Just keeping my mowers running is mechanically frustrating and a job in itself. I do have a fully equipped shop though, so that helps but still.

No. It is not worth it! I do it because I enjoy it, and like to do it. I like the machines because of the way they are made, not because I think they are better than a more modern machine.

It is just something you need to enjoy. It takes a lot of time, so work without any sort of a deadline. It is supposed to be relaxing.

The Puch is a well made bike and can be repaired. One that is locked up from setting outside can be a challenge. Please see my video of the $8 Puch I got from a junk yard to see what is involved. I see no reason to replace ignition points. All you need to do in most cases is file them a bit to dress them up, and set the gap correctly. It is just a mechanical switch. I still have them on my 1972 Yamaha with 35,000 miles, and it runs just fine.

Yes, I still have a few.

Welcome to the world of old bikes Mr. Edwards. In the old days it was very common to shut the fuel tap off when parking the bike for over-night or lengths of time more than a hour or two. They did not have vacuum taps back then. I would suggest you replace the rubber disk that seals the lever of the fuel tap, and clean the filter screen. The rubber can get hard with age and the holes sometimes tear. I got mine on e-bay. Grease will make the fuel tap rubber run very smoothly. I have a workshop manual here, and it says to prevent flooding, always use the center stand. The side stand leans the bike too much of an angle. I would suggest you shake the floats to see if they contain any gasoline. If they do, place them held submerged in very hot water and watch for bubbles to find the leak or crack and get the gasoline out of the float. Solder to repair. Plastic floats can be dipped in fuel tank sealer. Be sure needles and seats are not leaking and the seat is tight. Check your float levels and needle for sealing with a bucket of water as shown in the link. Use ONLY a GROUND steel ball if you cannot get the leaking stopped. Be sure floats are not rubbing or hanging up on anything, and that plastic floats are not swollen from ethanol in the gas. LINK to you-tube video: Carburetor Float Needle and Seat Rep ALWAYS TEST FOR LEAKS IN BUCKET OF WATER. Good luck with the machine...😊

Thanks for your reply for some of the causes that I might have with my carburettors, I'm an old helmet now being 69, this bike was one of my first bikes as a 16 year old same gold and black colour as well, I just had to buy it, takes me back to my youth, anyhow thanks again 👌👍

@@stevenedwards2162 I am an old helmet also, being 74 years old. I have had my Yamaha R5C for many years now. still runs great at 35,000 miles. I have had the leaking carbs, same as you. I am too old now to push start the bike very well. I always shut my fuel off and let the carbs run dry when I put the bike away to prevent the varnish build-up. I don't ride much anymore.😞

@@Adventurepilot70 Nice to here from you and your R5, yes I will take your advice and keep turning the petrol off for time being, us older one's have got keep going, I always say no one knows how old we are when we put our helmets on 🤣 thanks again from an old helmet from Wales Great Britain.

Badge417@yahoo.com is my email address. Glad to hear somebody is working on fixing them.

I have a few parts bikes myself. Very handy to have.😊

This is an LSA aircaft. While it is an ultralight type aircraft, it has 2 seats, large fuel tanks, and a weight of 550 lbs. The top speed in level flight is 95 mph.

@@Adventurepilot70 THANX...WHY DO THEY ADVERTISE IT AS A ULTRALIGHT AND NOT A LIGHT SPORT AIRCRAFT

@@EdwardKelly-vi9sg Early Chinooks were single seat, had only a Rotax 277 engine and 5 gallon fuel tanks. They were indeed an ultralight.

This engine is much older than 15 years, so I think you would not be interested in it. I have known and taken care of this engine since 1994 when it was mounted on a Quicksilver. I have seen everything inside, and found that there are no clocks anywhere. The engine does not know how old it is. I have changed the bearings on the crankshaft, and recently put new piston rings in it. Other than that, only gaskets and seals when I take it apart for inspection. The videos are supposed to show what I modified, and the reasons for it, such as oil injection removal, no pressure in the cooling system, etc. The engine has been very dependable for me, but like any engine it must be taken apart and checked. It has about 25 hours on it since I last did this. Most people fly 50 hours a year. Most people run them until they blow. They are afraid to take them apart and see if they have problems starting to develop. If you still have questions, be sure to watch the videos. I know they are not very good videos, but they do show the condition of the engine. If you are afraid to do your own work, do not purchase this plane. Spend the $20,000 and get a new engine.

$12,000 Located near Akron, Ohio.

Yes. The one you see in this video is for sale for $12,000 and is a flyable aircraft. You can contact me at badge417@ yahoo.com

No. It does not burn. I think only a small amount of exhaust enters, and there is no path for it to get out. It does not get very hot.

@@Adventurepilot70 tankyou so much mister😀😀to aswer🙏

Thanks anyway I found one.

That is great to hear. Good luck with it.

I made the molds for these parts, but I no longer have a rubber press or the molds. Please send an email to: sales@jbmindustries.com Explain what parts you want, and ask for an invoice with shipping to your address. Their rubber is very good stuff.

Glad it helped

I am not a Rotax repair station, or a Rotax mechanic, so I have not seen it all. Most of my special tools I made myself. If you want to contact me, 330 256 6475

Hello Richard, Yes, the Chinook is still for sale. Don't think anyone will buy it over the winter. I will put it on barnstormers.com in May or June. Good flying weather in Ohio starts in June. I am happy that you found my videos of interest. There are about 100 of them on the playlist, including some about the engine. The engine has never given me any trouble, and I think they are made from very good materials. They just have a few design flaws that need attending to from time to time. I used to fly a lot, so I usually inspected the engine every 4 or 5 years. Just did this 25 hours ago. I think the 701 is a good plane as well, but not as easy to fix. Some of my friends have them. If you have a farm, you have a great place to fly from and probably a building where you can store an aircraft. My videos are on a timer, and right now I think the last will go on Jan 5. I am glad you find them of interest. I am now getting back to my 1955 Allstate motorcycle.

The air temperature. Cool air is more dense, and the prop has more "bite". Engine puts out a bit more power. Performance will vary a bit with conditions. You get great lift in cool air, too.

Gets the leaves out of my yard.

That is awesome! I have flown for 27 years, the first 7 in a Quicksilver sport. The Chinook I think is more useful in that I could go much farther in it, and carry much more. At 73 years, I feel I am getting too old to fly now. I sure had a lot of fun!!

Also I forgot to tell you I'm also a Machanist 40 years got my A@P IA to keep the maintenance on papa's PA-36-300 brave cropduster on our farm listening to your videos sounds like your a Machanist and good aircraft mechanic

Except for a stint in the air force, I have been a machinist since high school, so you guessed correctly. I eventually started making rubber molds, then bought a rubber press that I could get down the basement. When I took up flying in 1995 I started making rubber parts for the Rotax engines, as well as stainless exhaust springs and gaskets. Things went well for me, and I liked being my own boss. I am retired now, and sold the business and all the molds. At 73, it is getting to be too much for me to travel to the airport and take care of the plane and the hangar. That is why I am selling the Chinook.

You are welcome.

It's working great!! Much respect to you sir!

I am very pleased it helped.

I think you could use a piece of metal banding or strapping that the use when sending heavy boxes or a bunch of steel. It does not need to be round. Just much larger than the air hole. Lap the material after cutting it with tin snips and drilling a screw hole to mount it. It must be smooth and flat with no burrs on it so it sits flat to cover the hole and prevent rubber from clogging the airway. I saw this idea on a mold being run at a rubber shop. It was a poppet valve about 1/2" diameter with a stem and spring. The shop was not using this feature. I liked the idea, but didn't thing the valve could open with the rubber against it, but I made a poppet valve and tried it in my mold and it worked! I thought it to difficult to make for every mold, so I tried the idea of the small circular spring steel washer that had a lot of pieces laying around. Works great.

@@Adventurepilot70 I see. It looks like you milled out a recess for the spring washer in the lid. Is there a machine screw going through the center of the washer attaching it to the lid, and a small hole behind the face of the washer? i’m not quite understanding how the washer is moving if its screwed against the lid.

Yes. It is a spring washer from a shock absorber on a Citroen car. I have a lot of them because we used to stamp them out. They are .008 inch spring steel. I think I used a 10-32 flat head aircraft screw in the center to hold it. @@mooninitelights I think you could use a .008 feeler gage leaf if you have one. I could also send you some of the round ones I used. The washer covers the air hole where I use a blow gun. Hole is off-center. The air will bend the washer enough to get thru. Seems impossible, but it works. I also made a large mold that opens buy air, using brass pistons that just fit close. No rubber seals or rings. ( too hot.) All the pistons have a narrow head. All the pistons are interconnected by passage milled between them, and then a plate to cover the milled passages about 3/8 to 1/2" thick bolts to the bottom of the mold. A newspaper gasket seals the plate. It leaks some air from the pistons when they are holding it open, but no more pry bars .. I just use a quick disconnect to plug into the mold to hold it open. It requires no hands.

@@Adventurepilot70 thanks so much for the explanation. I have been watching your videos for months and you explained exactly what I needed to know to get started molding rubber parts. Everything from the kind of press I needed to the cycle times and setting the temperature of the platens. Reallly I thank you. I saw the piston release in the other videos, its brilliant! What size hole should I drill for the port and what distance do I need between the edge of the 10-32 screw head and the port? I’m assuming this distance is critical. Thanks again!

I think I put the air hole about half way between the screw and the edge. The size of the hole is maybe 1/16" . I just wing it, and seldom do the same thing twice. I just watched the video, and found it interesting. I made it a long time ago. I sold the business 7 years ago. I am now 73, and as you can see from my channel, I am retiring from flying now. I guess this video of the sparkplug boot mold was on my channel, but I don't see it. Glad you made some use of it. It does explain how my press works, as most mold shops don't do it that way.@@mooninitelights

Glad you have watched my channel. I hope to get back on my own Twingle project soon, as I am almost finished with the airplane. It sounds like you have found a real good one there. With only 5000 miles I would think all you would need to do is to decarbon the pistons. Only reason I think this is, you don't know what kind of oil was used. We didn't have very good oils back then, so I would make sure the rings are not stuck. Be sure you put the same ring in the same position and on the same piston. Got to get any carbon that is behind the rings cleaned out with a dental pick. Other than that, nothing to do in my opinion. I am not an expert on Twingle engines. Should be good for 10,000 miles with the oils we have today. Good luck with it.

Yes. It is for sale. New videos of my progress every few days on the Playlist

I think you might be right about that.

Worth keeping. Parts are hard to get. Put them on ebay to sell them.

I am just about finished with it. Videos are on a timer, so today I am going to make one about the engine. Then I plan to run the engine, first nice day.

@@Adventurepilot70 Would you fly it to me to VG37 in Virginia?

​No. I do not fly anymore. Person that buys it must know how to fly. I don't care about a license, but you must know how to fly.

YES. $12,000

Yes. For the 582, 583, 503, and I think I still have some for the 447. Other models I don't know about.

@@Adventurepilot70 Great! I'll drop you 20 in the mail Donald. Thank you!

Sounds interesting. 4 stroke engine will sell. 2 strokers are dead noadays.

@@Adventurepilot70 I pray it does and not only that I am going to upgrade every part to high quality for reliability and also test it in simulated bad weather to make it like the civic of the sky At a very affordable price. I’m an electrician by trade but passion is aviation. My grandfather designed and built parts for space shuttle at his company I hope to keep the legacy alive I have triplets 8 kids total. I have 150 hrs in a Cessna 172 and Mooney m20 But it got to expensive to maintain and airlines cost to much My ultimate goal is long range electric ducted fan sailplane style that can fly CAT 2 landings with full auto land heater shrouds. And parachute recovery I have big dreams. Hoping this engine works out to boost the rest of my ideas

@@Adventurepilot70 looking for possible sponsors that could be fruitful