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Most likely inside the oil filter housing on top of motor.

Check for loose bolts on intake manifold. This will create a vacuum leak causing a lean condition engine code.

Or simply start by changing the intake manifold gasket.

The piston could be froze in the cylinder. If so take head off and put liquid wrench or some type of penetrating oil in the cylinder to free up wait a day or so then lightly tap on cylinder with a piece of wood. Be careful a little at a time be patient eventually it will come free.

@@ecran228e Thanks for the tip, I left it off overnight, it crashed by itself

Thanks Friend keep making video like this hug from Brazil

Ah yes this seems to be an internal refraction from the telescope. Checked to pinned comment for more details :D

@@ecran228e thank you! I’m a bit disappointed that it wasn’t ET!

@@Erin____ *hehe i know right we share this same disappointment :D*

It is not necessary to put oil in the tank that is only a precaution if the two stroke oil pump does not work which is rare. Yes the two stoke oil reserve is at where you mentioned and yes it properly blends. Just make sure you see smoke coming out of the exhaust once you start it :D

Hey there. Having same issue with no start. So you jist cleaned out the low oil pump, put it back in and you got the truck to start? Let me know. Thanks!

@@noteworthy227 yup did exactly what this guy did in his video. If you don't find a piece of metal that's obviously not your issue. But when I did this to mine I had to crank on it a little longer than normal to get it to start after the metal was out of it

@@mikejankoviak8542 truck still working good? Mine has still been parked since my last comment. Half scared I might need to put a motor in it. Just wondering how long term this solution is. I appreciate the help!

@@noteworthy227 yup no problem with it. I'm guessing it was a injector clip. Just run it and don't worry about it

How much oil pressure where you getting before you did that

No

Thanks but it was my stand pipe cause no base pressure !

Diesel rings are usually designed to last 800k miles. 1 mile = 1.609344 kilometers. *400,000km / 1.609344 = 248,548.47689mi* The odds of a piece of a piston ring being broken and found are extremely rare. Keep in mind when turbo seals go bad they tend to dump oil into the exhaust pipe. The piece of debris found in this video I believe came from my turbo right before it took a shit.

@@ecran228e I’m with you 100% on that, still trying to think on how a piece of piston ring would find it’s way in the oil pan provided the whole ring didn’t grenade but there’s zero evidence of that. The only thing I can go on is the sudden excessive blow by and massive amount of oil being pushed out of the engine more so then before, I do have a leaky valve cover gasket on passenger side which was never as bad until a few months ago, as well as, a rather disturbing amount of fine shavings on the plug magnet. Anyway. Some food for thought, thanks for the reply. The question is, would you drive till it shits the bed or sell for cheap lol.

@@rickbremmer3838 Personally I drive em till they shit the bed XD

I used the swivel-neck 1/2" drive long handle ratchet in both instances. Removing the auxiliary alternator belt first to gain enough room to reach the the primary alternator belt tensioner kickstand.

Magnet

*two belts fighting each other XD*

*well first off I believe your fuel filter is on backwards I suggest removing it...secondly is the throttle cable actually attached to the slide inside the carburetor? third check if its getting enough air from filter side...fourth is there any exhaust obstructions? please consider posting what fixed it for others to learn from ty :D*

I have the arrow on the filter pointing towards the carb indicating fuel flow. The throttle cable is moving the piston inside the carb. I have tried running it with and without the air box (no change), the exhaust is off the bike so there can’t be an obstruction in that (it is also brand new)

@@bbullsj is the needle attached to the slide inside the carb? Also two strokes need the exhaust pipe on hence the expansion chamber that scavenges excess fuel needed for thorough combustion...get a can of either and spray some into the open intake of the carb and see if the the idle goes up...something seems a miss with your carb...air -->fuel -->spark ...base on these 3 principles you are getting air and spark although it seems you are lacking enough fuel to power up the motor...if you have a big bore kit and a stock carb with stock jetting well there is your answer most likely...also make sure the new harness is correct and installed properly which im sure you have...just keep in mind what you changed prior to this problem and reverse engineer what could have caused this by deduction... keep me updated :D

@@ecran228e Yes, the needle is attached to the slide inside the carb. I will put the exhaust back on and check it again. I sprayed starting fluid into the carb while it was running but got no change. I did it with the throttle not being touched and then fully opened. No change. If I was going to change the jetting, what would I need to get? I have never rejetted a carb before but I know there are different numbers for bigger and smaller diameters. It doesn't seem like any of the connectors on the harness could've gotten mixed up. Could this be a bad CDI controller?

@@bbullsj if there was no change to idle when spraying either into the intake this seems like either the spark timing is 180 degrees off and/or not advancing or you have absolutely no compression which of coarse you should since its a new top end. this scenario is common when one burns a hole in their piston fyi

answered it...please consider opening up the *view replies* options :D

sure it would although this is just a basic overview of what is involved...the actual tasks performed in this job are very basic...a large majority of people searching for information about these types of jobs usually just need a quick visual of whats involved in a short video :D

*YW :D*

Only if she finds out 😂

Any help would be appreciated.

Using a 1/2" long handled ratchet on the belt tensioner will release the tension on the belt allowing enough slack in the belt to remove it from the top alternator and/or any of the the other pulleys that particular belt is attached to.

What belt part # for the main belt on upper alternator. 2005 ford e450 super duty 6.0 shuttle bus.

*YW :D*

A little over $400USD

@@ecran228e damn ! Isn’t it cheaper to just buy a top end kit??!!

@@ecran228e that’s it take my money lol I’m in Florida

@@ecran228e the Company you sent the cylinder, head they have the kit as well

Yes all those parts came from the cylinder repair company + cylinder cleaned/replated + head cleaned/inspection the cost is minimal considering this is the most accurate way to do this job :D

We would all like to know ahead of time what parts we need for our specific job we are considering. With some jobs this concept can be applied. Unfortunately with this job that concept is not best to be applied reasons being there are multiple configurations and mid year changes to the belt and pulley systems on this motor...long story short please consider being able to put this vehicle into a state inoperable status by extracting all the parts you need to replace and matching them to ones you will hopefully be purchasing from an actual brick and mortar automotive parts supply store...this is actually the best most logical and least time consuming way to do this job cheers :D