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I have heard of Witte before and like the look of some of their tools, they are not the easiest to get hold of in the UK though, unless I am looking in the wrong places. Another brand is Felo, that do have a bit more availability. Not heard of Trusco tool boxes, will have a look and see what they offer. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Trusco are metal boxes made in Japan they have a beautiful cantilever trays impeccable powder coating with a stamped dimple dyed pattern. They do oem production for other brands if it looks like it it and made in Japan it probably is them. The pencil cases are very robust and thoes are a good place to start. I hope I didn't just cost you too much money.

@@MattHmm-rq6dn I have found some, they do look quite nice. Working away at the moment so won't be spending any money just yet!!

I have the CT3794 set of interchangeable VDE drivers from Nielsen that seem similar to how you describe. The sets are good for compactness and adequate for most needs. They are stamped VDE and I doubt that they would be sold in the UK if the marking wasn't legitimate. You can search on the VDE website for certificates.

@@three-phase562 Good to know about the VDE website. The ones I have don't come up when I search the database. They have a VDE symbol and a number, but doesn't check out. These are straight form China, so not surprised and not worried about it. I'll definitely keep the website in mind though for future purchases. They sell the same on Amazon in US, bought a set to keep there too.

Just looked on Amazon UK, the Tolsen 13pc VDE set is the same exact thing I have. So many different names for same exact set. But, no complaints, one of the better Chinese purchases I have made. yes, I use the voltage sensing screwdriver too. No color codes here, so makes it easy to find the hot, haven't been killed yet! lol Tolsen does show on the VDE website, but for pliers and wrenches, not screwdrivers.

@@inothome I cannot find the Neilsen version on the VDE website either. I am wondering who the actual manufacturer is and if they hold the VDE certification and all of the other brands are relying on that. Voltage sensing screwdrivers have their uses, they got a bad name in the UK as people used to dismantle them and take the resistor out. The ones I see nowadays are all sealed so you don't get that problem.

I don't skimp on insulated tools personally. I use to work high voltage at times and wera or wiha were the bargin tools for that work. 20 dollars us or however many on euros is easy to pay for the chance the installation isn't right or has a nick in it. We had non conductive screwdriver ls made of ceramic and carbon fiber tips for the bad stuff that cost 50 dollars to thousands for sets. Even on common stuff i will still use my voltclaw(plastic wire pusher) to save my hands with the extra leverage dosent hurt it's safe too. I even have insulated vessel bits for my vessel electric screwdriver because why not? I suggest spending up on a low to mid teir set rather than a aldis/parkside bargin brand.

Never investigated what the Range function does in voltage mode. On all the others it just allows you to apply an engineering unit to the function and doesn't change the range of the instrument in the same way that it does on a multimeter. Unfortunately, I am working away from home at the moment and don't have the unit with me so cannot verify. The cost to capability ratio is extremely high on these, if the manufacturer keeps working on them to iron out the quirks, they will only get better.

I suspect that Beta have a mix of own manufactured items and some rebrands. Usually a company likes to advertise when they make tools in their own country and I don't see any of that on the ones I got. They seem pretty good quality, will have to see how they last against other tools. Thanks for watching.

Generally speaking the use of multimeters for work on high energy circuits is frowned upon in my industry, so I always have a voltage probe and a proving unit. I then need an insulation tester of some form for cable / motor testing, these are usually the bulkier instruments. There are a few combined units, but they are usually biased towards a good multimeter and poor insulation test functions for what I desire. A lot of the different meters I have had are units that I have purchased over the years to test out the functionality or upgrade an existing one. The reality is I don't need that many, but I get curious about the design concessions different manufacturers make.

Maximum it can source is 10 kHz, lowest voltage is 100mV and has a 100mV resolution. It can simulate RTDs and various thermocouple types.

@@three-phase562 I need a similar device for imitation sensors for replace old soviet devices. There are so large and uncomfortable for working with them. I have realy mach work outside and many businesse trips, so devise must be small and have a low weight. I need to source some mV, resistans in Om, and some mV with frequency of 12kHz at the same time. Well it was being cool if it could to measure microOm. Olso it must be cheap (lower than 300$) because I don't have a lot of money.

@@bEErGoOd_ Sorry, I am not aware of a device that will cover all of those functions in one unit. A process calibrator from the likes of Fluke such as the 725 will come close but you are talking circa £4,000 and it will still only source up to 10kHz. The Uni-T UTG962 is a small waveform generator that could produce your signal and easily modified for battery operation, I think Siglent may do something similar. You could pair that with an MR9270 or Fnirsi SG-004A and likely get what you want.

@@three-phase562 thank you for advices.

They do seem to make some good tools. I haven't really seen them in much use in the UK, but haven't really seen them advertised either. Think the UK is a relatively small tool market, and there are already a significant number of brands already established. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Sorry I don't have the HT62 multimeter.

I tend to prefer the push through style for tighter spaces where the direction lever sometimes gets caught. Push through mechanisms also tend to be more robust than the lever style and handle more torque. Obviously not so easy to change direction with them though.

@@three-phase562 thanks for the detailed answer!

@@Omar-kw5ui You're welcome

Hope it proves to be a good buy for you 👍

You can get PB Swiss from the Hoffmann Group. They have a pretty good range and stock holding; www.hoffmann-group.com/GB/en/houk/v2/search?search=PB+SWISS+TOOLS&manufacturer=PB+SWISS+TOOLS I hadn't come across Beta before, just seen them starting to be stocked in some of the shops I buy from. The roto-ratchet is more of a nice to have really. Helps out in a few limited situations, but generally you can get away with an extension with the ratchet etc.

They do seem like good quality, not sure of their availability in the US. Thanks for watching TETC.

I didn't really know much about them, they seem to be pushing for a stronger presence in the UK with them appearing on a number of tool store website now. Seem to be good quality but priced towards the upper end of the market. Thanks for watching and commenting.

The shoulder strap handle for the Veto, does have a much better clasp on it, presume it just puts the price up though. Yeah, VAT is a real pain, always having to budget 20% on top. I have seen a few spanner sets in plastic cases similar to the concept for storing allen keys, so may take a look at a set of those some time. Thanks for watching.

The wera double open end spanner set has that plastic clam clip holder that's what I had in mind though I can't seem to find it seprate from the set with the spanners. That's very unwera like to not sell the seprate storage item

@@MattHmm-rq6dn Facom do some spanner sets in folding cases I like, but have the same issue in that I cannot find an empty case. I'll add it to the list of excuses to buy a 3D printer!! Thanks for looking.

Yea I've seen several plans on printables website actually specifically for wera jokers model specifically. Or maybe bend a peice of spring steel into a holder 😆

@@MattHmm-rq6dn A piece of old coat hanger bent in a loop through the ring ends, is probably what I will end up with 🤣🤣

Thanks for watching and commenting

Going by memory as I don't have the unit with me. The min/max is a continuous recording function and displays the current reading on the main screen with the selected min/max on the smaller secondary display. The peak is a hold function, displaying the maximum or minimum, but there is no specification for it in the manual. Whilst you can use it for an inrush current measurement, the current measurement function is AC only. You would have to measure a DC inrush current using the voltage function and convert.

Never worked on RVAT starters, all my MV motors are DOL or VSD. They have a number of bags with V-Swap now, so they may develop panels more suitable panels if they see a market for them, likely quite niche though. I don't utilise a 2.5kV megger much, go straight to 5kV, which generally aren't too bag friendly other than Chauvin Arnoux units. Appreciate you watching and commenting.

@three-phase562 man DOL and VFD are rough on motor windings especially on MV. Also the 5Kv megger has its own case but for basic hand tools gotta have a good bag, I might start looking at what chiller techs use since we do testing for MV chillers mostly

@@burnedupsparkytipsandrevie9597 DOL are mostly boiler feed pumps so mostly only start once every 3 months. The MV and HV connections tend to be more mechanically biased anyway and the electrical bags I see tend to be more biased towards the domestic / commercial scene.

There may be something wrong with it, the majority of the blades do work okay in it, so there doesn't appear to be a major issue.. Thanks for your comment.

Appreciate you watching and commenting, it is a good meter, although I don't own a Fluke clamp meter to compare it to.

Sure is an expensive one, but worth it in my opinion. Didn't know Greenlee had a version, I presumed it would be AEMC in USA. Thanks for watching and commenting TETC.

Yes, the voltage level of the output pulse can be set in the settings screen for the output mode, from 1.0V up to 24.0V. Thanks for watching and the question.

@@three-phase562 Thanks for pointing me out. Did found it. Measuring with a scope shows it just fine. If I am correct this is only pull-up. Is it also possible to make it pull-down? I think I should use a resistor, correct?

@@AE31011 Its a switched output so if you connect the +out terminal to the pulse input and the com terminal to 0V, it should switch okay. If you have problems, then yes you could try a pull up / down resistor to see if it improves. Alternatively on the settings screen, you can change the 'way' from 'level' which would be the voltage output to 'oc' which is open collector switching and voltage free. You could then use that with the power from the sensor circuit.

@@three-phase562 Thanks again. I wil give this a try. 👍

@@AE31011 Good luck 👍

For the insulation test function the A and B versions have a similar accuracy, its just that the B version can measure higher resistance values where the A version will just show over-range. For the continuity function, the B version appears to have an issue with reading high in certain situations where as the A version is much more stable. If you want to carry out condition monitoring of motors etc over a period of time, trending the readings you get, then the B version with the extended test range is a better option. If you are predominantly wanting to show an installation is safe to energise or fault finding, then the A version will achieve that. Due to their nature, insulation testers are never the most accurate devices anyway in comparison to more usual multi-meter measurement functions. Thanks for watching, glad you found the video useful.

​@@three-phase562 Thanks again for taking the time to reply! For my application, the resistance value is more important, since it is directly related to the ammount of moisture in the insulation material used (generaly Magnesium Oxide powder or fine sand, which is very hydrophilic). Which is why, the fact that the ut505b gives much higher value is worrying. Does the A version have that same issue? I wanted to compare it to my hand-crank megaohmeter. When I hook my old analogue meter to the multimeter to check the output voltage, the neadle stays at 10 MegaOhms no matter the voltage, which tells me it is pretty accurate. Do you have one of those analogue hand-crank type meters? They are pretty neat in doing more detailed manual readings like that you can "control" the output voltage by the crank revolutions and watch the behaviour of that neadle. Not that big of a resolution in the higher values though, mine goes up to 2 Gohm but from 500 Mohm and up to the 2 Gohm the movement of the neadle is like 1 cm.

@@mistake920 You can test the accuracy of the insulation tester against a set of resistors, just be mindful of the voltage rating of them, so you may have to use resistors in series. If you work to a particular pass value for your heaters, then you can make up a resistor to match that value. The insulation testing function of the UT505A and UT505B are comparable with regard to accuracy, it is the continuity/resistance function where the UT505B goes out of specification against my winding simulator. The UT505B has a higher insulation resistance measurement capability than the UT505A, if your existing meter goes up to 2 GOhm, the UT505A will not match that unless you test at 1000V. At 250V test, the UT505A measures up to 250 MOhm, where as the UT505B measures up to 50 GOhm, depends if you want that range or not. At 500V, UT505A measures up to 500 MOhm and the UT505B measures up to 100 GOhm. Alternatively you could look at something like the Extech MG302, or one of its clones, that measures up to 4 GOhm across all the test voltages and was more accurate than both the UT505A and UT505B in my tests. I have crank style insulation testers, but they are all vintage era, circa pre 1970.

Thanks for the info. It seems the only real upgrade that such an unit offers, for my application, is the ease of use. I hope Uni T releases a new model soon since these two are a few years old. They realy reised the quality of their producs in the last 2 years.

Thanks for watching and commenting. Had to put the project aside for a while due to personal issues and not been able to get back into it as f yet. Will certainly do so one day though.

The meter works well and is within spec. Thanks for watching.

The jaw design is a useful feature of this clamp. Testo do seem to make solid test equipment. Thanks for watching.

As far as I know, Draper don't have any of their own manufacturing, so they are likely a rebrand from another manufacturer, unless they are having them made as a special. They used to rebrand Elora spanners at one point, but these don't look like Elora to me. I do use open ended spanners quite a bit. I have also found that as self employed, I don't have a site workshop to rely on anymore, so need to be more self sufficient and therefore tend to carry more tools now. They do look good at the moment, we will see how long that lasts. Thanks for watching.

It's carried by the handle or I have a spare shoulder strap I can fix to it for longer distances. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Hopefully will be able to set it right when I get some time. Thanks for watching TETC.

Thanks for commenting

Thanks for watching and commenting.

They appear to have two adapters, one for their DMM, and then a slightly different one for this clamp meter. I don't need the temperature measurement functionality, so have never purchased it. Thanks for watching and commenting.

@@three-phase562 Ah so. I didn't know that because I only have the DMM from Testo.

@@RensePosthumus 👍👍

Thanks for watching and commenting.

As far as I know SabreCut are just a distributor in the UK and have everything made for them and rebranded, so it could well be from Wilpu. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Yes, that is what it would be used for. If you were on a plant, depending on where you tested from you may also have extra cabling and terminations to contend with. Thanks for watching and the question.

Yes I have seen the twin gris from Knipex, but thought that the plier hear would be a little wide for access, and I didn't really need to grip wide parts, so the slip-joint part was not necessary for me. These pliers will spend most of their time extracting split pins and R-clips and holding a few things when required. I have seen the Snap-On version as well which seems more long-nose design, but does have the screw extraction grip. The main thing I like about the locking pliers is that you don't have to maintain pressure on the handles to keep grip, but they do have limited uses. These are designed and built quite well. I checked the packaging and they are made in Taiwan. Thanks for watching and commenting.

For me, I would look more towards the MTR105 as it gives better insulation testing functionality. The IM Xtra is limited with a 3.1GOhm maximum that doesn't lend itself to PI and DAR testing, or establishing long term insulation trends. If you are just after go-no-go testing, then either instrument would suffice. There are full Baker Surge Test units that are portable, that would give much more detailed analysis of the insulation condition, that would be more appropriate for high voltage motors or strategically vital motors.

I did contact Gossen regarding the original MetraHit Coil, providing all my test data and requesting if they could provide an appropriate coil adapter for the motors I test, but I never got a response, so I haven't contacted them regarding the IM Xtra. I do look on the website every couple of months for upgrades. Thanks for watching and commenting.

It depends really. If the site have a replacement relay, then yes it is better to commission that relay and bench repair the faulty one. If it is something like the power supply capacitors then I would replace them and verify that the power supply is working correctly. I have replaced components with snapped leads or bad solder joints and tested the relay at final settings all okay. Thanks for watching, appreciate the question.

Thanks for watching and commenting.

Yes Vamplier and Engineer are the same, apart from the handle colour. Engineer are more readily available and better priced in the UK. Thanks for watching TETC.

Yes, it is fantastic quality in comparison to other solder suckers, worth the extra cost in my opinion. Thanks for watching and commenting.

The meter was zeroed at 2.44 in the video, thanks for watching part of the video and commenting.

The meter was zeroed whilst around the test coil as there was no current flowing though it. All zeroing of a DC clamp does is remove the offset caused by residual magnetism around it. Therefore the most accurate way to zero it under this scenario is with it clamped around the coil and in the position it is being tested in. Under normal work conditions measuring on a live circuit, it is unlikely you can do that, so in that scenario, you would zero the meter prior to clamping the wire.

Sabrecut do sell a lot of bits here in the UK along with various cutting blades. Looks like the Skil blades is US only. Appreciate you watching and commenting.

I tend to use this for hacksaw blades and it is okay for that, but not really the best of grips. I found the Lenox one on Amazon, so I may take a look at some point, I have a Sabrecut saw handle now that it quite good but only takes sawzall blades and is a bit bigger, but easier to grip.

Yeah, I have been on MM for a while now, enjoy his videos. I have not heard of Mecwork before, see what I can find. We have a bit of Fiskars tools in the UK but it appears to be selective. Thanks for commenting.

That's too bad buddy, expensive set of drivers to have sitting around for battery replacement. Appreciate you watching and commenting.

It is likely that some oxide film has developed over the surface of the contacts that could not be broken down by the lower test current and therefore we saw a higher resistance reading. A higher test current will break through that film more easily. Generally, when measuring low resistance with a constant current, then the higher the test current is, the higher the voltage will need to be to drive the test current. A higher voltage is more stable and easier to measure. It will be affected less by noise and thermal sensitivity. There will be a trade off between the capability of the test instrument and the measurement stability. Ideally I would have gone up to 10A for a 200A connector, when you start going above that, then you will start to heat up the test object and start to increase the resistance, depending on how long you test it for. Thanks for watching and the question.

Thank you for your explanation and I understand the difference due to the surface condition with different current.

Thanks for watching and commenting, much appreciated.

Thanks for watching TETC.

It is, but it is also a 1000 Amp clamp, so isn't really designed for monitoring at lower values. Thanks for watching and commenting.