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Oh man, what a loser.

Very cool, ty

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Most of it was not where the camera was centred... and the camera kept doing an auto focus all the time when something was moved in the area of view.

Just wondering if a higher resolution on the 3D printer would have made it less time consuming and made the tower a lot rounder than it showed in the beginning.. Yes, I did notice that this video is 6 years old and 3D printing was in its infancy then. That tower looks very big compared to the rolling stock in the background is it for HO scale?

Hey, 3 years later...checking in?

I can’t believe it’s that easy! Thanks for sharing!

Howdy Georgia boy! Great maintenance video even though I'm watching 6 years later. Very good explanation as you went along. I use the Labelle 106 grease for models. As I've heard from other modelers, grease for the gears and oil for the bearings/bushings. Cheers from an ex-Georgian in eastern TN

I've got a couple of old Bachmann engines that died because of cracked gears. I plan on putting one cut up to look like a train fell off a cliff and the other one will just sit idle on a piece of dead track. That kinda reminds me of the Addams family crashing their Lionel trains. Cheers from an ex-Georgian in eastern TN

I have heard of Plastic Weld but I have Plastruct and got a container of Precision Plastic Glue 25 g.with a metal spout for precision in applying the glue. I think it came from China because there's Chinese writing on the bottle. This is some of the best plastic cement I've ever used. I have some Mr. Cement for plastics but it doesn't hold nearly as the Precision stuff. I don't understand why you CZcamsrs play background music and then try to talk over it. Very annoying. Very nice addition to the bridge. Really came out good. Cheers from an ex-Georgian in eastern TN

What scale are you building that cabin for? The dowels are way too big for HO scale. You should be using toothpicks. Just my observation. I was thinking of building a log cabin in HO scale but it would be very tedious using HO scale dimensions. Cheers from eastern TN

Georgia red clay? You must be from Georgia. Where do you live? I used to live in Jonesboro, GA, about 30 miles south of Atlanta. That said, I model the Central of Georgia Railroad Company and have been steadily building up my locomotives and rolling stock for the CofG. I even got a 12 or 14 inch piece of 120 pound mainline rail from the Central of Georgia that I use for an anvil. The CofG was purchased by Southern Railways in 1962 and then was subsequently purchased by Norfolk Southern in 1983. I lived in GA all my life until about 22 years ago we moved to Tennessee. I had to tear down my layout and have never built another one. As soon as we move off this mountain in TN, I plan to build an HO scale layout as well as an O scale since I've acquired enough Lionel 027 engines and rolling stock. I hope this move will be next year sometime. I even use real bituminous coal (anthracite would have been easier but no railroads ever burned soft coal) in all my steam engine tenders as well as in some of my coal hoppers. I try to use all natural ingredients on my railroad. Right now I put together a small oblong of track on a big sheet of particle board for testing out my new engines. I think I have 11 or 12 Central of Georgia engines now and one is my first brass model, a Hallmark Fairbanks-Morse H12-44 in the CofG livery. I got several Atlas engines in the CofG livery and I repainted 3 Mantua Pacific's and decaled them for the CofG. I looked at the CofG roster and they never had a FM H12-44, but did have a couple of H15-44's. I got one of those in an Atlas engine. I grew up in Hephzibah, GA, and remember when they paved the red clay dirt road in front of our house. That was Windsor Springs road. Kinda miss the old GA red clay. My dad took me to the kaolin plant there in Hephzibah when I was a kid. I still remember that and I'm now 73. I use a lot of dollar store things for my railroad. You can get women's eye shadow makeup for weathering and it sticks a lot better than weathering powders and comes in a myriad of colors. I went to a rock quarry when I lived in GA and got a bucket full of fine crushed gravel that I sifted and used it for my ballast on my railroad. When using dirt from outside it's best to put it into the oven for an hour or so to kill any microscopic critters that may be inhabiting the dirt. Oh no, you do DCC with sound. I'm strictly a DC guy as I hate the sound of HO scale DCC as it sounds way too tinny. Cheers from an old Georgian in eastern TN

After much swearing and cussing, I completed a Tichy Train Group flatcar because I liked all the detail. I followed the directions to the letter and wish I hadn't. Before adding all the brake parts on the underside, you installed the stirrups. I ended breaking every one of them off installing the grab irons. The kit came with both plastic and bronze phosphor grab irons. I threw the plastic ones in the trash and wish I had kept them. If I ever build that kit again I will add the stirrups LAST. I did make some stirrups out of staples from an office stapler as they were about the right thickness, just had to re-bend them to make 'em smaller. When building a kit I end up spending as much time chasing parts across the floor as I do building the kit. Lol. I painted the flatcar rail brown on the underside and painted each individual board a different shade of brown mixing the paint in a communion cup (got a whole box of 'em) as I went. It was a 40 foot flatcar so it really didn't take that long to paint. After the last black wash (to fill in the gaps of the boards) of acrylic paint and alcohol it came out really great and looks like real wood. I save all my sprues from building kits and use them sometimes to fill bolster holes to attach trucks and drill and tap them for a 2-56 screw. Guess now I'll try to build a track bumper or two. Thanks for the tip. I think I'd have painted it some dark brown (burnt umber) but before painting I would have used a razor saw and scribed some lines into the plastic to resemble wood grain and weathered it some. I use 60% water to 40% glue as 50/50 is still too thick. Cheers from eastern TN

I make all my own trees. I have a Nandena bush growing out front of my house. After the little red berries fall off what's left makes great tree armatures and cost absolutely nothing. I also have a ton of lichen growing on the hill behind my house. I also make all my own flocking with sponge rubber and an electric coffee grinder. Just add whatever color of acrylic paint you might want. I make grass clumps from jute twine and even out of an old wig I got from the dollar store. I just cut the ends off of 200 popsicle sticks for lumber. I even save the end pieces I cut off and cut them up into tiny pieces and make wood scrap piles. I make my own rust powder out of 0000 steel wool. I put about 3 or 4 pieces of 0000 steel wool in a quart jar and fill it up with vinegar and set it in the kitchen window for about a month. After it becomes a big old rusty mess, I pour it out into a flat 11x14 stainless photo tray (you could use a glass baking dish) and wait a couple of weeks to completely dry. I then use a single edge razor blade and pulverize it into a powder and store it in little snuff tins (I used to dip). Each batch comes a different color. To use just mix it with some Elmer's glue (PVA) and dab it on or use it as a weathering powder. I sometimes make gouges in the plastic with my A-proxo knife (I never use an X-acto knife 'cause I'm never exact, just approximate) and fill it with the rust. I watched your video on making chain link fencing and am gonna give it a try. Cheers from eastern TN

I think an airbrush would be better for painting as you can control the amount of paint dispersed to the object. An airbrush is even finer mist than an aerosol can. Cheers from eastern TN

where did you get the confederate train at

Taymia extra thin cement dries in 40 seconds 😊

Very interesting video and lots of information and inspiring thanks for the information

what part of Georgia u from

ty for explaining it very simple.

Ive never had the greatest of luck mounting those coupler boxes in place without first building up some kind of a pad, about 3/32" x 1/4" or so, for the new coupler box to attach to. Ive discovered that failure to do so, leaves the coupler way too high. Sometimes that can be corrected by shims, but that's a lot of fiddling around for something that should be a more straightforward procedure.

Can I run doc locos on my dc layout? Or do I have to modify them in some sort of way

Oh, and the truck mounted couplers are called Talgo trucks. The glue action is called capillary action of the glue. I used screws to hold the coupler boxes on my models. I just don't trust plastic glue. I even had to drill through some of the metal when it had a metal weight attached to the floor of the car.

I spent nearly $400.00 on changing out wheel sets and couplers on about 100 pieces of rolling stock. I changed the wheels from plastic to metal (after all, trains have metal wheels) & body mounted Kaydee couplers. I also took the time to weather each piece of rolling stock. Took me several months to complete the project. I also changed out all the incandescent lighting on coaches to LED lighting and changed out the headlamps of locomotives to LED's as well along with proper ballast resistors. I used mini full wave bridge rectifiers, LED strip lighting (the ones that can be cut apart at every 3rd LED & have the ballast - current limiting resistors - already on the LED strips). I also used 3200uF capacitors for flicker free lighting. I even lit up an old REA (Railway Express Agency) coach by making my own wheel pickups out of some scrap copper I salvaged from an old computer. The LED strip lighting is 12 volt DC and I think I used about 12 LED's per coach. I used bright white LED's but they turned out to be too bright, so I painted each LED with yellow acrylic paint and now they look period correct with yellow lighting. I also changed out all coal loads to real coal. I had a big lump of bituminous coal I went after with a hammer (outside of course) and smashed it into HO scale. I also brought each piece of rolling stock up to NMRA standard weight for each piece of rolling stock. Cheers from eastern TN

Great video! Easy to understand and very helpful. I have a small 2'x4' layout that is all one single block. Sounds like there isn't any conversion to do other than plugging the Digitrax Evolution DCC system into my main bus? Thanks!

Hey Ed, where you at?

Thank you for sharing. Have to love those Kadees, very nice "How to" video.👍

Precise work!

thats not a layout , only a pice of track.

Instead plaster why not just use tape on the risers? I’m new at this but the risers are already smooth and adding the plaster made it not smooth with a lot of work. I am assuming you cover the risers to fill in the gaps for the ballasting. Is there something else I am missing?

This runs so well, I'm a southerner but I'm not patriotic, I'd still love to get my hands on that caboose, it looks really nice, great video!

Good tutorial, camera work needs to be improved though!

Great Video, 1:87 Steel mill model mentioned your fence build, did you do a video on building the jig , going sub your channel

Sorry I didn't watch these when you were posting (5 years ago). I hope you still get the comments because I think they are great. Nothing terribly new but your delivery is great and easy listening. I had to tear down my last site about a year ago when we moved and need to start all over again. Learned a lot last time but some of your clips will really help and make my new layout much better and easier. Thank you for posting all of these. I love to watch and learn and hope you still watch this site. Trees are always needed and this is a great way to build up the inventory. Great stuff

Sorry Don’t mean to sound ignorant but will the DCC conversion work on the older trains, like tyco or Lifelike locos? Or do I need an DCC specific loco?

What brand of fabric Tull is this ? Where can you get it ? I have a whole steel mill in need of fencing.

Subscribed. Genius idea.

When you get farther into operations will you be using signals for your trains?

Where are the staging tracks?

I have this same set. My second favorite train - an heirloom my grandpa left me is the mandatory first

Very nice job! took notes, going to do that for my layout!

nice how-to on fascia installation, thanks for sharing!

Have seen you refer to your sheet on several videos, where did you find it? Great video and channel!

I love this train!

You put all the time into converting the old car why not just fill the truck holes tap and drill out as use a screw in truck. The screw in style trucks are much better then old snap in style

Great job. Setting type drywall mud does not crack like finishishing mud. But you have to mix the setting type with water. on the bag it will say 15, 45, or 90 I believe that the approx time for it to dry.

I started getting this Set but never completed it. Nice Tribute to The Confederacy.

How well do the Woodland Scenics Risers and Inclines work for sound deadening when placed on plywood?

Are T pins permanent? I mean do you pull them out or that's what holds the track down