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Really appreciate that Mike! Now when you say front to back, front is the side with all of the pulleys and such, back would be the side with the transmission? That's where the manual fell short...

@@thegreatescape2022 Actually, for this service, it does not matter. the valvetrain layout is a mirror image. Works either way.

That's kind of what I'm thinking too, especially since the freshwater outlet from the water heater wouldn't get hot... I cracked the inlet freshwater seal on the heater to remove the air which then made that hose get warm, but for some reason I couldn't get the outlet hose to get warm (I backflushed though the heater so I know it's clear). I also made sure that the mixing valve was closed so that coolant had to go through the heater and it couldn't bypass it. I should also note that in past, I've opened the bypass valve to bypass the heater and we would still overheat. I've had the freshwater pump off a few times and all seems good there. Belts are tensioned too. I'm thinking once I figure out the air bubble it'll run cooler

OK it seems like you have ruled out the heater circuit being the airlock. I recall the water heater gets its coolant from the top of the engine near the thermostat. Is there an air lock there? I recall having this problem on my W50, but I do not recall how I resolved it. How long does it take for the engine to overheat and under what load? The temp sensor is in a place where it would register hotter than the engine actually is. If you run the engine and it heats up fast, when not under load it could be that it is just working air out of the system (it is always going to be there when you take it apart) and it would collect there and cause the temp sensor to read high until the air gets pushed to the expansion tank. Just a theory. You say you have good flow at the exhaust--it would be good to see what it looks like. redurkee at gee male.

Hey Ray, any help you can give would be great! I was just at the boat today going though the whole freshwater circuit and I'm not sure anything I did made a difference. The thermostat is a 180 with the little hole (it has a little brass plug type of thing in it that can open and close, does that sound right?). I just replaced this today just in case, even though I tested the old T Stat a few days ago at home on the stove. I put a new oil cooler on a few days ago, didn't make a difference and didn't notice any clogging or anything else in the old cooler. I've read that these can fail so the new one is at least a little peace of mind! I found 2 impeller blades in the raw water pump the other day. Now the water flows really well but still overheats... I back flushed the whole freshwater side today. Pushed out some crap but nothing major. Still didn't seem to make a difference. I've also checked all elbows for blockages, everything I've gotten into has been surprisingly pretty clean and clear. Since emptying the system and backflushing today, I think I have a bubble in the water heater... I had to leave before I could get that sorted out. Do you know of any good tricks to treat that?

@@thegreatescape2022 So I assume the raw water pump has all its blades and you have to checked that out, right? So the blades are from a previous impeller? Where exactly did you find them--they could not have been inside the pump housing I generally find them in the discharge orfice of the pump or in the first raw chamber of the heat exchanger--have you checked those places (I know you have a new Hx, but the blades could have lodged in there when you first put it back together.--they get lodged in the hoses and show up periodically if you do not check your impeller or if you run it dry with the intake closed. The cast off blades tend to jam into any turn in the cooling hoses and at the nipples. If you lose them, you need to find every single one. The hoses can lose an internal flap and create a blockage if they are old--they age from the inside out. It would be interesting to see a video of the output of your exhaust. The only way to get a bubble out of your water heater circuit is to disconnect the to and from hoses at the engine and blow them out. Next time you change the coolant--disconnect both hoses and fill them with a funnel and quickly connect them to the engine. And it overheats even when not under load, is that right? I was flabbergasted when you took the injectors apart. As you probably know now, that is not a job for a DIYer no matter how many CZcams videos you might see, They rarely fail and should be left alone.. Same goes for the injector pump: do not EVER think about taking it apart--there is nothing a mortal can repair in there without special calibration tools and the O rings are not something you can buy off the shelf---professional mechanics send these whole units in to a diesel shop with special tools to service them . Do you have Nigel Calder's Boat Maintenance book--you need it. You have my email. I will help you with this. I am very familiar with the W-50. The cooling system is its weakness, but it can be managed. I am going to say at this point that you have an impeller blade in the system you have not yet found. You might also try taking the water heater out of the loop as the air bubble might be stopping coolant flow.

@@petethecatable I found one of the impeller blades in the raw water intake elbow all folded up, the other was in the outlet elbow all folded up. Removing those made a huge difference in the water flow, but it still overheats. It's overheating even at idle right now so I'm pretty sure I have an air bubble in the heater. I just had the HX off today and both end caps off, cleaned the tubes and didn't find any other impeller blades (I'm always on the lookout for those now!). The hoses are pretty old, it definitely could be that... I actually think I wouldn't have had an issue with cleaning the old injectors if I had used the right fluid to clean them with... Oh well, learned the hard way. The new injectors had to be set to the right psi before installing (did all of that off camera). These mechanical injectors are pretty easy to work with in my experience, I wouldn't dare touch the high pressure pump though!

@@thegreatescape2022 OK there is one more possible issue. If you have the HX with the two caps, those caps are VERY fussy about alignment, The ridge on the inside of the cap is a bitch to get set right and tight and if you don't the raw water never gets a chance to cool the coolant. I had this problem sevaral times when I was first working with the W50. The groove has to fit perfectly or the HX does not work.

@@petethecatable I was super careful with setting those back on today. When I first took them off today I was hoping to find that the manufacturer put them on wrong, but nope!

Hey Jesse, I couldn't find your email on your channel but ours is thegreatescape8675309@gmail.com . So far, we haven't noticed any movement or flexing in that area anymore and we've been out in a few strong breezes since we made this video Congrats on selling your boat! I saw your post on the T37 forum and you clearly had put a lot into her. Did you end up with another yet? -Saylor

Thank you! Sometimes I wonder how busy the Bay would be if the water were as clear as the Bahamas, but then all of the amazing anchorages would be packed! The Chesapeake is a gem. Hope you're sailing season is full of adventure (and things not breaking!)

Thank you!! It's a great place to cruise, there are so many great anchorages around but it's known to get pretty gnarly in the wrong conditions

Hey! I actually have alopecia, I was diagnosed when I was 8. Not an awkward question at all! I get asked a lot so I'm pretty used to it, its not everyday that you see someone without eyelashes or eyebrows. I hope you're doing well, I'd never heard of ED so I had to do a little research and still feel like I don't know much about it! Europe might just be in our looonngg term plans, one day...

@thegreatescape2022 .... Thank you for answering. Anyway... ED is ectodermal dysplasia. Not even close to what you have but still hairloss and ayebrows are related symdroms, or lack there of. Unfortunatly ED is also Swetglands and pigment in your skin. So I can not be in the sun for to long or actually do anything in the heat... since I get overheated. No swet, no cooling system... right... Anyway... cool to hear from ya. I thing i got a friend up north in sweden with alopecia. Unfortunately it is a she and you can imagine the upbringing.... with no hair for a girl. More power to you and her.... C ya

We took a few measurements and the centerline is the tallest, around 6' 3", with it tapering to near 6' 2" towards either side. The head has about 6' 1" of headroom, same with the v berth (not standing under the hatch which would add a couple of inches). I'd definitely see if you can take a look at one near you and see what you think! Saylor is 6' and doesn't have any problems. Good luck!! They're great boats

Seems like everyone has a different opinion but that's what makes these kinds of projects fun, you can make it however you'd like! Appreciate the feedback!

I wish they were all easy to get to! We're in the middle of replacing all of ours right now, along with recoring the wet decks that surround them. Getting lots of votes for the Epiphanes Rubbed Effect! We'll have to try this one out

It will be good to see how you fix the deck core. From the topside or from below. In my “ List” Happy New Year. Nick.

Thanks for all the tips Ray! I think our interior has been oiled several times and agree, I wish it hadn't ever been done! Much of the teak is very dark... Do you have any products you've used to lift the old oils out? Ours almost looks stained in places... Maybe it is? We peruse the T37 website pretty frequently, there's so much good information on there (even though much of it is fairly old, but still relevant!). It does seem much less busy now though. Did you make a post about your interior on there before? I saw a few photos of a beautiful interior and I'm thinking it was on Velera...

I had the best luck with using a non toxic citrus paint stripper and green 3M pads (cut up in small squares and tossed when full of goo) but it is grueling work. You might want to do it in small sections. And test some first. . The louvers on the locker doors are a bitch. I hate to tell you that the dark is trapped mold and you likely will not be able to get rid of all of it. I spent a couple years working on mine and have accepted some darkness in my final coating. . I stripped it multiple times and then sanded it very carefully starting with 120 and going quickly through grits to 220--the veneers are thin but will stand up to some effort. In some places I had to do this twice and it is still somewhat dark in the grain. I then coated it with gloss twice for a base--and sanded that and two coats of Rubbed Effect. I have the original paneling along the ports and that came out better than some of the bulkheads. But it is a great improvement over the dam oil I doused it with for 25 years.. I also have an Ericson 32-200 that was thinly varnished from the factory-it was a dream to refinish and looks like the day it was new.-the Tartan is a much better boat, but I wish the factory had not chintzed on the interior by oiling it. Good luck. You are very talented and thoughtful. I have sailed a lot of boats in my life but the Tartan 37 is the sweetest of them all. @@thegreatescape2022

I'll have to try out Epiphanes, a few others have recommended that too and I know Sailing Magic Carpet loves it and they do fantastic work. I plan to do the interior piece by piece over time instead of all at once, mainly so it isn't too overwhelming and I can get better as I go. Some get nervous about boat work but I enjoy it and know Tartan 37's are worth the work to keep them going

I would recommend Petit Flagship for the gloss base. It goes on easier than Epiphanes gloss. Epiphanes gloss needs thinning to flow well and lay down, particularly when it is warm out. But their Rubbed effect over a well prepared and lightly sanded gloss base is beautiful. @@thegreatescape2022

Thanks! I thought the backing plate seemed a little beefy and was surprised to find it back there, not sure if they changed to this style at some point during production. We're in the process of replacing all of our chainplates this off season, for safety and peace of mind!

Wow, that's a lot!! We're in the process of replacing all of them this off season, it's a lot of work but will be well worth the peace of mind!

Check out what Mya did on Sailing Magic Carpet. Satin finih over gloss I believe.

They do fantastic work!

We appreciate that! 😊 Seems like most would go with satin, we're still trying to decide. I have a feeling we won't know for sure until we try one out and go "oh... That's it!"

@@HansQuistorff absolutely. Aladino is an absolute MASTER! I love what they did with Magic Carpet 1 and am really excited to see how MC2 ends up. You know it’s going to be amazing!

Hadn't thought about that for the satin, good tip!! Happy New Year!

Glad you found it before it was too late! We're in the process of replacing all of ours and recoring the deck around each thru deck opening while we're at it

We love them! They're hard to beat. You didn't happen to be building them in '80-'81 did you 😉

In a small river on a fairly flat day we feel like our chances of going overboard are small, albeit not 0, and shore/rescue is nearby. When it's rough and in the ocean or bay sure, life jackets go on at a minimum.

Fair enough, safe sailing! Great vids by the way!

We actually gave this a try but were hard aground with the tide going out. We were lucky that the tide lifted us off, but probably could've gotten off a bit sooner if we had left the anchor out! We didn't film any of that unfortunately... We're trying to get better each episode with bringing you guys closer to what's going on

@@thegreatescape2022 You want to leave the anchor out. and keep it tight. Otherwise, a wave or wake can simply keep pushing you up higher on the shoal. Don't ask how I learned this.

Thanks Ray, the T37 community seems to be a great and knowledgeable one. Having a great forum online with so many questions and solutions was one of the reasons we chose the 37 - we felt that we'd have a good support group when/if we ran into an issue. Plus like you said, you'd be hard pressed to find a better sailing boat for it's size! Let us know if you have any cool places along the East Coast that you think we should check out, our cruising plan is to sail the coast for a while, between Maine and the Caribbean

@@thegreatescape2022 I suggest you look at the Southern coast of Connecticut along the sound (given your interest in history and liking to roam towns). And then Block Island and Nantucket and the Elizabeth Islands (best in the shoulders of the season because of the crowds). I would do the Cape Cod Canal and cross the Bay of Maine (skip Boston to Cape Elizabeth) and focus on Penobscot Bay Islands as a seasonal destination--they cannot be explored in one season alone--a lot of hiking on islands that are generally open to the public. The rest of the coast of Maine to Campobello is great cruising and not something everyone does. Then another trip would be to explore the southern coast of Nova Scotia: Provincetown direct to Shelburne N.S. and then the coast taking in the towns along the way. Ultimately, the Bras D'or Lakes are great if you are adventurous and self sufficient. I am in Castine Maine in the summer (I have another boat in San Francisco in winter) so look me up. I will try to stay in touch.

@@petethecatable awesome! I'll do some research on those places, I have minimal travel time of the northeast so this is a great start to the list. If you see that we're in your area and want to go for a sail or grab a drink, let us know!

@@thegreatescape2022 Get a copy (even an old one) of the Taft-Rinkler "Maine Cruising Guide". Very useful for any trip to Maine or across the Gulf of Maine.

@@petethecatable will do!

That's on our to-do list!