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Hmm. I don’t notice a lot of hand vibration unless I’m trying to see how low it’ll idle. For now it’ll have to ride along and see what breaks… I can re-weld and re-enforce no problem… but it’s a lot bigger deal to raise the motor enough for suitable rubber grommets… have to make a u-joint driveshaft, and any higher I risk interfering with the steering shaft.

How about if you don’t like the video don’t watch it and quite hating on small creators we are meant to support them.

I watch these videos to learn something. I'll gladly support content, after all I watched the video!! But I was more than a little cheesed that in my opinion it was a waste of time. I thought I had toned down what I wanted to say to a polite level but obviously we don't agree. All the best to the video content creator....

I actually found the manual and part number for the part… it’s a planetary gear drive pulley that goes on the transmission input shaft. Maybe someday one will come up for sale!

If he had a hi low he would have 6 different forward speeds and 2 different reverse speeds. You were close

So in 63 and 64 was the early b10 that had the 23d briggs 9hp. in 65 the big 10 came with the 10hp briggs then in 66 and 67 the bumble bee 10 and bumble bee 12 came out then 68 and 69 the b110 and b112 came out, fun fact b110 and 112 were the first tractors offered with optional hydrostatic transmission. Then late 69 70 and early 71 the 210 and 212 was produced. 71 72 the 310 312 314 316 were produced and in 73 the 410 412 414 and 416 were produced. That's as far as I know. Fun fact all the allis chalmers built Homelite tractor were built in 71 72 and 73 as well which are unique looking. Note these are the ac line not the simplicity versions there are no versions that are similar to the 300 and 400 series or Homelite tractors

Simplicity built for Allis Chalmers until 1965 then Allis Chalmers bought Simplicity and owned them from 1965 to 1983.

@@beeenn649 was it 83? I wasn't sure because I got a 1985 allis chalmers 912h might have been sold in 85 but built prior

Thanks! I’m hoping to get into more fabrication and innovation type projects through the summer… but spring has mostly been catching up on boring stuff. This one was just un-boring enough to film.

Yeah the ol girl certainly has/had some critter quarters. It seems like it’s blown most of it out, but I’ll be going into that motor in the coming weeks to see how bad the cylinder is and mostly how the bottom end is before I decide to hone it the next size up or to diesel swap it if it’ll turn out cheaper. I didn’t know about the 16hp interchangeability. Thanks for that!

@@firefly3333 9-18hp castiron single cylinder horizontal shaft briggs engines will fit in the b10. I have put 3 different 16hp briggs engines in all 3 have had serious issues mostly do it surface rust from sitting 50 years. But I got a 16hp kohler that has less then 30 hours on it and I'm currently fixing it to put in my b10. If you get a kohler you will need the driveshaft adapter for a later model tractor like the 700 series or 900 series adapter will work. And you need a kohler with the flat sump with a flywheel with the for bolt holes in it. Some kohlers just have 2 bolt holes so you might have to change flywheels if you go with a kohler. But if you go with briggs it's basically pull old engine out swap parts to new engine and put it in. I've done about 20 swaps 9 on one tractor

Thanks for your comment! I grew up around the Allis/Simplicity garden tractors, so I’m far more familiar with them than anything else. I totally hear ya on replacement engines. I’ve been looking lightly but there’s just not many to be had anymore. I’m not sure how bad it might be to rebuild this engine since I’m equipped to do a lot of stuff, but not to grind a crankshaft… that’s where it gets expensive if it needs it. Sometime when the grass growth slows down I’ll open the Briggs up and see exactly how bad it is, and decide from there. Who knows, I might even try some fun, silly stuff on the Briggs and make videos of it! The diesel swap is appealing because I’m getting into the black diesel stuff, and adding to the list of stuff that runs on it is obviously a goal.

@@firefly3333 I am working on my 682 Cub with the KT17S engine in which a day or so ago I installed one of the fuel pumps that I purchased from off of eBay and I was moving the inlet fitting and it pops out. I definitely am going to go with a pulse type fuel pump because the replacement Kohler fuel pumps appear to be “Pure Junk” putting it nicely. You know, would have at least tried to start the engine before the darned thing flew apart you know. Such Is Life.

If it ever gets cold here this season! Pretty sure it hasn’t been below freezing even 24 hours straight!

@@firefly3333 hell any time you start them I’d love to see

If this didn't work, I was already starting to look at buying a head gasket and punching these out from the combustion side where I can "push" instead of "pull"

Sorry I don't.. I'll try to remember to measure it sometime. As of now I'd guess 350-400, but will update when I can!

...maybe an International but we're not gonna talk about that...haha

Nah, it gets used more than you’d think. It gets a fresh tank at least once a month.

Now you're going to be lucky that that Motors don't stick on them two alices because you washed all the oil off the cylinders so you better take the plugs out and dump some oil in it and turn it over

Does your PTT disconnect randomly also?

it sounds like the "hold" wire is not working correctly. What I learned with these is that there's two different circuits, one for "pull-in" and one for "hold". The solenoid should have a black, a red, and a white wire. If you have a multi-meter, there should be some amount of resistance from black to red, and some different amount from black to white, on the solenoid side of the connector. If you crank the engine and measure the engine (not the solenoid) side of the connector, there should be 12v to I believe the white wire during cranking only, and 12v to the red wire whenever the key is on. I may have red vs. white functions backward.

@@firefly3333 thanks a ton for the response. it turned out to be a white wire under the black plastic next to the radiator. a mouse chewed it up. thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

How did it not leak any oil out if the shut off pin. with your manual set up

The failure point for the beautiful wife’s was one of the factory connections on the body when it snagged a branch… I don’t think anything could be done about that except a fully-Bluetooth option. The audio quality was perfect at low speeds, problematic at 30mph+, and practically unuseable at highway speeds. I think going against us on the highway too was we’d both get crackling feedback, I think from bad solder joints. Overall though, I’ll likely buy another pair of the headsets and keep the radios person-mounted, and consider possibly making the same system all over again…. Except this time doing better soldering and splicing, and probably something other than usb-c for the bike connection. 15 minutes with the radio unplugged and they’re both full of mud.

@@firefly3333 not to bully, but your bike looked like a mess of wires so bad i am even impressed anything worked for so long on a dirtbike. my solution would be wearing a small backpack or chest harness with the radio (with factory battery) on it. with the antenna and everything. on my bike when i travel i have a 12V cigar plug with a USB charger hidden inside one of my bags, i just plug all my things in there to charge while i am riding. you could simply get 2-3 battery each and swap them. if you intend on not wearing the radio. you could buy some magnetic breakaway plugs and DIY wire them to your person-to-bike loom.

@@Francois_Dupont on wiring: hell yeah I’m far from a good wiring person. Just not patient enough when I know what the bare minimum of “working” looks like (and you’re right, I have routine failures. Someday I’ll do it right… probably) Anyway for radios, I think I’m headed that way… but I still want a PTT button on the handlebars so that I don’t have to fumble and find it on my person. I’m looking now at maybe some form of universal Bluetooth momentary button that I can chain in.

@@firefly3333 a note on wiring. you can buy some spitted corrugated wiring tubing. you slip your wires in and tape it to make a loom, just like on a car/bike from the factory. your wires must not move. when a wire keep moving it create stress inside and they break. it is most common at a joint. so you must be careful to keep any of your wires from flexing around or bouncing. i have never looked into it, but i am sure this exist. the magnetic release wire connectors. it might be very interesting to use and solve many of your problems. anyway i wish you great success!

I looked at those a bit… one of the big deliverables I wanted to try to stick to was “fewest things to recharge possible”, mostly with long camping trips (KAT, COBDR, some friends doing Tour of Idaho). But, since the wires failed on both rigs, I may pick up one of the Bluetooth setups and give it a go. Maybe batteries will stay up a lot longer than I expect.

@@firefly3333 I'm going to try the Retevis #EEK013. Hopefully, I can stuff the earbud/mic in my helmet. Like I said, I have no need for charging but the bluetooth sending unit has a USB port that could be used for charging. For rider to rider, I'll use the stubby antennas and put the radio in an enduro jacket pocket or fanny pack.

I have a Bluetooth PTT with an Anytone radio. It works OK but has two problems. It has a long delay between pressing the button and TX. It also disconnects every time I get off the bike, and that gets annoying. I plan to add wired PTT and use my reverse rev limiter button as the PTT. (ATV)

Go on? I’m not understanding what you’re trying to say.

@@firefly3333 did you replace the water pump with an oil pump? If so, depending on temperature and oil density, the water pump would have a better flow rate. If you stuck with a water pump, when the oil is cool and dense the flow rate wouldn't matter so much any way. I'm not sure why someone would swap the water pump for an oil pump even if using oil for cooling

@@Dereks06 actually, it’s simpler than that! Before WWII, many tractors didn’t have water pumps at all, including John Deere. This machine uses convection (the marketeers called it “thermal siphon”). The science is, as long as the top radiator hose is the highest point in the system, then the heated liquid rises to the top of the radiator, then drops through the tubes as it cools, then back into the engine for another lap. More here -> mechdiesel.blogspot.com/2017/06/cooling-system-used-in-automobile.html?m=0

So far it’s still working well. The higher temperatures exposed some weaknesses in sealing the cooling system, which have since been repaired. For show and parade purposes I think it’ll stay this way. No fear of freezing, no fear of rust. And, I may well be able to easily run “distillate” whenever I want. The only thing about a TO20 doing this is I think those have water pumps and thermostats, right? Personally I’d be worried about the oil being too thick when cold and damaging the water pump.

@@firefly3333 glad to hear it's working out. Nice looking relic there. But yeah, the thick oil on the pump is a bit concerning. I'm only considering this as a last resort "fix" tho. Putting a new head gasket in and run block seal in it . Hopefully this fixes it. If I go the oil cooled route it'd be with the thinnest possible oil possible.

Well, unfortunately they didn't hold up that extremely well... I think some of the issues were mine, and some were with the Baofeng headset kit. The first issue we had was that there would be a lot of static and feedback... then suddenly PTT would engage when not commanded, and not engage when commanded, randomly. I think both of which were soldering issues at the multiple custom connections. Second, the connectors going into the extended battery packs are very sensitive... if they're pushed off-axis in any direction, they no longer charge... Those issues were live-able... but then one of the wires on wifey's headset caught a tree branch, and ripped out of the baofeng headset's factory connection. I think we could have done better to tuck and protect wires, but it also seemed like a fairly weak connection. I'm working on uploading a reference schematic, but Google drive isn't cooperating. I'll update when I can get to better network in town and upload.

@@firefly3333 Cool, thanks for the reply. Still searching for a good setup. Keep up the good work.

Gosh that’s the kind of story that hurts to hear… if it were me, I would probably rig up some way to put a very low pressure on the cooling system. Since it’s an open, thermal siphon system no more than say 5psi. Then, take off the valve cover and the crankcase top cover, and use a flashlight to see if you can find any seepage. I think UV dyes may also be available, but motor oil also highlights under UV, so make sure you get a different color dye than the oil. That way you can use a blacklight and maybe more easily see the leak source. If you don’t see the leak under pressure cold, get it up to operating temperature and try again. Just my thoughts and ideas how I’d approach it.

Someone at his house is lol, just be a Muslim household

You’re exactly correct. All distillate tractors have a petcock on the side of the oil “pan” (or whatever acts as such), and is placed to drain the crankcase down to the “full” level on the dipstick (if it has one, most Deere 2 lungers do not). This feature was originally there because distillate would pollute the lube oil throughout the day of running, and then settle to the top at night and get drained off through the petcock. Effectively, I’ll do the same thing, but pour it back into the radiator instead of the distillate tank.

Good call! I hadn’t even thought of the big kerosene-burning prairie tractors! All the more relevant this being a distillate tractor. I was even thinking about running “distillate” at the shows this summer, now I have more likelihood to do so successfully.

No it was cheaper for farmers back in the day they would start them on gas and let them warm up then switch them to distillate