Video

100% ! It’s ok until anything goes wrong!

Glad it helped!

I know ! That’s console for you. People get so focused on one area they forget to check the flanks

100% 😂

When removing the lower unit, the drive shaft came up and out of the unit which meant that the pinion gear became detached. This required the gearbox to be opened and the gear reinstalled.

👍

Yeah that would be correct 👍 Basically to remove the gearshift link put the gear to which ever position is easier, believe neutral is best. It’ll not go back together another way apart from the way you remove it in, unless you unwind or remove the shift linkage by error, as the shift linkage always matches the throttle / gear position.

I suspect it’ll be a similar process for lower unit removal, but it uses a different water pump kit

Great Advice !

@@MarineEngineServicing Thank you, God Bless you.

😵‍💫

So the engine was running with a slight misfire which was audible. The next step is to disconnect each ht lead in turn and see if the engine either dies or keeps running the same. It was found when removing the lower ht lead that the engine tone / rpm didn’t change, while the others caused the engine to stall. After that it’s a case of determining if it’s fuel or ignition. We had spark so that left us with fuel / carb issues

@@MarineEngineServicing Thank you very much, I will try this in the morning. God bless you.

Let me know how you get on 👍

@@MarineEngineServicing Some updates: 1. Replaced the fuel line from tank to engine to resolve leaks. Then checked the fuel to the fuel pump, which was good order. 2. Started the engine, it does not do the pop misfire as anymore, but it running at a higher 1000 rpm idle, white smoke at the propeller exhaust. Increase in throttle causes misfire to happen again. 3. Tried removing the ht leads individually, engine does not stall in any ht lead removal, but idle came down slightly in each ht lead wire removal. 4. Disconnected each spark plug with ht lead connected and all spark plugs were arching. 5. I have already cleaned the carburettor as the motor had been sitting, and the fuel in the bowl was vanished. The pilot jets were clogged. I have cleaned and reinstalled and it hasn't improved. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

So it could be - Your mixture on a carb/s is wrong. You’ll need to set the mixture correctly using the mixture screws. Vacuum leak between block and carbs Idle speed could also be set too high if idle is 1000rpm Carb jets are dirty still and require another clean especially the jets / emulsion tubes. Not just carb cleaner. Leaking fuel pump internally - definitely not an ignition issue if you have spark on all 3

Sounds like the alternator is broken or the 70A ACG fuse is blown. A spare 70A fuse is normally located in the lid of the ACG cover

It shouldn't matter as long as it all goes back the same way. The shift will only go back together if it matches anyway, I.e Fwd & Fwd / Rev & Rev as long as you don't unwind the shift linkage or adjust it you'll be good

Glad you enjoyed

I suppose it would be possible with the right harness and power supply. Never done this myself

Glad to hear it 👍 Thanks for watching!

It should have some auto generated in CZcams ?

Just a bit

Not normally, sounds like the water pump pick up tube might not be sealing very well. If you have no water coming out the telltail then I would suspect the tube isn’t connected to the water pump with what’s you’ve said. But more likely the grommet the tube goes into could be perished. In the other hand if you are running the engine in a tank then that case void would be full of water anyway and it’s just draining out.

😂

💪

Brass ones..

Hi Lee, I've not had any issues with this 60hp model, but I have worked on a 40 ETEC which had an EMM failure which was a similar age. I was hoping to find the cause of the fault, but the customer sold the engine as spares. I believe it might have been a split in the cooling line which cools the EMM, but who knows. The EMM would go super nova when the key was turned to the standby position.... Chris

Do you own one ?

Hi, there are various sites that have what you are looking for such as “ BRP Parts Catalogs “ As for the manual, I’m not sure if anyone has uploaded a free PDF. You have have to buy a PDF or a physical book

@MarineEngineServicing ok, yeah I have a 50 hp etec. Looking to get my hands on a service manual and a parts number break down

Let me know if you get sorted ✔️

Thanks for watching and enjoying, at the moment I don’t have one for this specific engine. But I do have videos on carbs for other engines. Easiest thing would be to use some fresh fuel and try that ( cheapest option ) A carb clean especially on the the idle / pilot jet. Sometimes with the engine running you can hold the palm of your hand over the carb intake and this creates a massive vacuum which can sometimes clear the carb if it’s partially blocked. But really the only way to fully clean it would be to take it apart. Some carbs have a float bowl drain screw which can be taken off with out having to disassemble the whole carb which can drain any muck or water out the bottom. Could also be a weak fuel pump not delivering enough fuel to the carb which then cuts out due to fuel starvation. Then you pulling the motor over re primes it. Again this can be rebuilt or replaced

300 + faith 😂

It’s only running on 2/3 of the carbs. Lower Carburetor idle jet is blocked / partially blocked so the mixture is incorrect. Once cleaned the engine ran really smooth

It sure is!

😂

😂😂😂😂😂

...i przykleić do twarzy 😂😂😂

You would think he'd have some haha

Sure would!

Why he got some safety squints

@@anthonysadventure7830and a safety bandage 😅

Wonder how much boost he's making !!

You are 100% correct, impeller was found to be ok 👌

You are 100% correct, impeller was found to be ok 👌

It’s all natural 😂😂😂😂

Hi, I’m not sure about using an o ring to hold the key way, I always use a small amount of marine grease. The parts diagrams for the Evinrude Etec only show 1 o ring being used on the water pump and that’s for the water pump housing which is larger than the impeller. I suppose some people may have different methods for insulation but using additional parts does come with risks especially if say using an additional o ring, it could break down and could then become trapped in the water passage ways. Unless they push the impeller down just enough to engage with the cam and then are able to cut and remove that o ring.

Glad it was able to help you out. I try to do a wide selection of service videos when doing outboards. I do believe people should have access to videos like this to be able to sort bits out when service engineers / dealers aren’t around.

Hi, So generally on the Etec we would do the following. Spark plugs Fuel filter Fuel lift pump Impeller Relief valve Gear oil Test thermostat We have videos of most of these job on our “how to service a Evinrude” playlist Please like each video you find helpful and subscribe if you haven’t already 👍 With regards to the throttle body you could try a throttle body cleaner / spray

Спасибо большое за быстрый ответ!) Все ваши видео я посмотрел и на канал подписан конечно же! Было бы не плохо посмотреть видео чистки дроссельной заслонки от вас 😊. Ещё один вопрос по маслу, если нет XD 100 каким аналогом можно заменить? Про смену в диагностике на TC-W3 я знаю)

Thank you for be already subscribed ! So Google translator might be off a little with what you're saying. If you're meaning what can you use if you don't have any XD 100 left, you can use XD 50 or TCW3, but this must be changed on the EMM using the plug in diagnostic software. Otherwise, the engine will meter the oil in at the wrong rate, believe its from 100:1 ( fully sync ) down to 50:1 ration ( sync blend ). Not doing this could cause damage the bearings / engine etc. XD 100 is the best oil available to ETEC's as it has little to no smoke / soot and is used at 100:1 so uses half the oil compared to other oil, plus provides the best lubrication.

Да, я это знаю) диагностический шнур и программа у меня есть, какой аналог можно использовать взамен XD 100 ?

I'm not sure if there is an exact equivalent to XD100 as the EMM is programmed for this specific oil only as opposed to a grade? The same goes for when it's programmed to XD50 I guess. I suppose when programmed to TCW3 then any oil which meets that grade would be ok. The XD100 / 50 was designed for the engine directly. If you were to find a equivalent fully synthetic grade which isn't xd100 then you would be taking a risk for the sake of either reprogramming or just buying xd100

That’s what we said 🤦🏻‍♂️👍

Not sure how big an air-cooled outboard could go before running into cooling issues, but I've seen a few over the years in the 2 - 7hp range

Hard to tell till after when using the head mount, will try harder next time 😅

Rereading my comment i came off a but entitled, what i mean was more like i have this same problem and would have loved to see in more detail how you checked for spark :)

@@demolaishonwowno worries, I've got a video on testing outboard ignition, link below. I know it's not the same engine, but the idea is the same for testing. czcams.com/video/iwQQ-KnRbAo/video.html

@@MarineEngineServicing thank you and sorry again

Ah it’s no problem 👍 thanks for watching

Thanks 👍 nothings ever lost

Ideally neutral would be the best due to access when it’s in drive. But if you do it in gear then it shouldn’t really matter as long as it goes back together in the same way. That way the linkages are still aligned.

Lean sneeze, carb needs stripping and cleaning. 👍