Video

Glad it helped!

Use bubble solution to check all connections, especially where thr gas supply connects to the dryer.

The phases don’t cancel. The second phase created by the start winding is phase shifted from the main winding. It is not shifted by 180 degrees but always something less depending on the specific configuration. Start capacitors will increase the phase angle. The bigger the phase angle between the start and main windings produces the starting torque. The larger the phase angle, the more starting torque. That’s why start caps are used in some applications and not others. Once the rotor is spinning from a dead stop, you want to take that start winding out of the circuit because there are lots of amps going through it. The sole job of the switch to the remove the start winding from the circuit. Otherwise the motor’s internal thermal overload will open due to high amps.

@@AppliantologyOrg good reply!

@@AppliantologyOrg I suppose I should specify that my wording is poor.. it is not the single phase electricity itself but rather that a single phase will only generate an oscillating magnetic field in the stator essentially.. there will be no rotational motion in the fields unless multiple phases or a shifted/split phase is used as a starting torque.. like you say the start winding creates the shift in phase angle This was one of the harder things for me to wrap my mind around when I first wanted to learn more about electricity. I found AC induction to be one of the more enlightening subjects to learn about. Hope it can help someone some day as well! Thanks for all you do.

@jaber4life Correct- a single phase is not rotating around the stator, just pulsing at 60 Hz. That’s the reason a temporary second phase is needed to nudge the rotor “off the dime.” Three phase motors do not need a temporary second phase to start because three phase power comes already phase shifted and therefore rotating around the stator. That’s why you don’t need start devices on three phase motors. Only single phase motors need this to supply and then remove the temporary “split phase.” Single phase motors are more commonly called “split phase” motors because the temporary second phase is split off from the primary phase.

@@AppliantologyOrgthe electromagnetic force is fascinating. I’ve genuinely considered pursuing a career as an electrician after 5-6 years in appliance repair, simply due to the trade having introduced me to electricity and prompted me to continue learning more and more about it!

To prevent the magic smoke from escaping the board and freaking out the customer.

I just bought a Klein CL800. Has all the same functions of my Fluke meter-amp clamp set in one meter. Seems like a decent meter at a third of the price of my Fluke set. I’m going to do some comparison measurements. Also, will see how it stands up with time.

@@AppliantologyOrg Mine was only $115 on Amazon and it says it's drop resistant. Probably going to get some Fluke or Ponoma leads for it if it makes it past a year. Had good reviews.

That's the one I just bought just looked up my past orders. Only thing I wish it had was the watts function like my fieldpiece. I can clamp to a bake element and put the leads on the terminals and get the watts without doing the math or using the ohm calculator.

But a grounded element is not a short condition. You still have a load in the new circuit: Line to partially broken element to chassis ground.

@@AppliantologyOrg sorry… I miss spoke… I meant a short to “ground”… that is not “grounded”

Glad it was helpful!

You bet!

You can download tech sheets, service manuals, and troubleshooting docs at Appliantology. Tech support and continuing training, too. appliantology.org/blogs/entry/1027-tech-memberships-at-appliantology/

Glad it helped!

Don't know what GE is like as a company to work for. Their products are on par with the other manufacturers. But their technical literature is some of the best in the industry.

Short answer: Ghost voltage. Long answer (with a demonstration video): appliantology.org/blogs/entry/1058-what-is-ghost-voltage/

I appreciate that!

Your theory is correct. But there's a practical problem which my method avoided. I did all my testing from the easily-accessed control panel. Your method would require unnecessarily disassembling the freezer to gain access to the red wire on the evap fan or rolling the fridge out to get your probe on the hot spade of the power cord. Defeats the whole purpose of cleverly using the schematic to fix equipment faster with minimal disassembly.

That make perfect sense. Is this for this kind of particular boards ? Because most boards if you look at the schematic they send 120 V to the load from the board and line 1 and natural are on the for example J connections taps ! Is that current ?

@Habibthehvacguy You’ll see both switches Neutrals and switches Lines to loads in appliances. Manufacturers will even change from model to model. That’s why I always look at the schematic for my Load of Interest to see how its power supply is switched.

Thanks for that info, @tannerross-barco8238!

Fluke 117 and yes it does but I wanted to show off my old skool wiggy. 😎 The problem was a reverse polarized outlet.

Yeah, the wiring harness is tight. Might be able to use a crimp on butt connector.

​@AppliantologyOrg that's what I am thinking. I just hope I can gain access to the rest of the harness from underneath. Planning on flipping it and disassembling. Where it's at I won't be able to repair it unless I remove the harness. Thanks for the reply.

Ezzacly!

Exactly what we showed in the video! Also the blue wire on the fan but not used by the computer.

Not totally junk. A more nuanced assessment would be “good technology implemented on the cheap.” Same story with all home appliances.

The fan stopped running when I removed the green jumper wire from the yellow PWM input. The blade doesn’t stop right away- it coasts to a stop.

You can watch the full video where I jumped the fan motor wires here: 4 Wire Evap Fan Troubleshooting czcams.com/video/jnuVzNkwCMQ/video.html

I used the green jumper wire in the video to jump the 12 VDC supply (red wire) to the PWM speed signal line (yellow wire) and “trick” the motor into thinking that the computer was telling it to run full speed. I used a DC power supply to supply the 12 VDC ($40 at Amazon).

You can watch the full video where I jumped the fan motor wires here: 4 Wire Evap Fan Troubleshooting czcams.com/video/jnuVzNkwCMQ/video.html

I download whatever tech literature I need from Appliantology: appliantology.org/blogs/entry/1027-tech-memberships-at-appliantology/

Glad it helped!

That was the tech sheet that came with the fridge. I download PDFs for tech sheets and service manuals from Appliantology.org: appliantology.org/blogs/entry/1027-tech-memberships-at-appliantology/

@AppliantologyOrg I found it after a bit of searching. Your video was extremely helpful. Thank you for posting!

Yassou!