Video

Talks about second Z-axis, removing springs, but uses stock belts, which also are installed askew (yeah, as intended by manufacturer). Facepalm Remove bed regulation knobs, then argues that X bar is not bubble leveled. Double Facepalm Talking about 'PRO' firmware and printing like a turtle without pressure advance and input shaping. Multi Facepalm Installed spring nut upside down. Ultra Facepalm Have spent a lot of money for usless upgrades and recommend to spend $300 for tweaking a printer, instead of... You know some other brand printer, which is fast, does not have knobs, have 'professional' firmware out of the box, and costs less then $300. It is called.. like some european paper format. I will not advertise though. Monster Facepalm! PS Please understand me right. I am for cheap printing. And for Ender 3 actually (yeah, the bowden very first version). Just buy it cheap, you can get very cheap it. And install a direct drive. changing springs also a good idea. You also can just straighten your bed, with your knee, metal ruler and a flashlight. And thats all. No, you should not use bubble level to set up your printer. You better use high quality square, metal ruler and caliper. Also compiling firmware is nothing hard and you do not even need to buy printer for that. Just download your printer template (in case Ender 3 no trouble at all, unless you change motherboard). And that's it, just read the ducking manual. PPS Cheers!

the lead screw in ender 3 series is 365mm. Nema stepper motor with integrated lead screw have a max length of 350. Can these missing 15 mm be a problem ?

Try cleaning the lead screws and using a dry ptfe lubricant spray, have you also investigated changing out the v-slot wheels for polycarbonate?

This video NEEDS to be on the wiki of all manufacturers! Amazing, very clear and top quality! New sub!!!!

If you dont like it so much then why do you use the ender? Stop complaining.

The yo bro factor here is extreme. Yo. 😂 ❤

You could just buy a Bambu and be done with it, the A1 has the smoothest surface I’ve yet seen on any print.

Why am I watching this, I already have belted z 😂 Nice video :)

Sir, a second z band has hit the second print.

eKKcentric

good work 👏

I went all out and chucked the lead screws and went for a z-belt driven solution. Works beautifully well.

Loving this video, your quality and explanation, and the channel as a whole. Can't wait to see what else you do man

Have You heard about WobbleX?

Great job on the booth and video!

You sir deserve more views and subs for your quality of videos.

i became one of the 2K subs cause of this vid, keep goin!

Any place to buy the thrust bearings, no longer showing

2k subs is criminal

I've subscribed without even watching the whole video. The intro was so captivating.

Note that brass oldham couples like the ones you showed aren't supposed to work well under compression, when an oldham coupler that responds well to compression is installed the lead screw isn't constrained laterally at the X axis, in those cases constraining at the top _is_ a good idea because otherwise the lead screw is underconstrained. There are bearing-based oldham-style couplers like the "wobble wings" and the suchlike that are designed to work under compression, also bear in mind that thrust bearing are great but can introduce vertical motion in the lead screw if they are not perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the lead screw, which can be tough to ensure

In my opinion & experience as long as we let the top end hang free and allow the linear rod to hold its position. Best is increase to 10mm rod or use linear guide the Z. I use a PLA printed z Lead nut and it really zero down the blacklash. Sometimes some parts of the machine need NOT be metal to cut out vibrations and noise. Part of your printed band seems like uneven extrusions not totally z-band. I am not sure about converting to belt to stop my blame on the Z-Leadscrew bend. Anyone tested can share your views too. Bear in mind Z is the least movement axis among all bed slingers. Thanks for making this well presented video ❤

This is one of the best produced 3d printing videos I have ever seen. Engaging at every segment.

Best cure for zbanding on and ender 3... get a bambu labs 3d printer.

Great advice ! I solved the leadscrew issues by, THROWING THEM AWAY and replacing them with a belted Z mod. Z hopping is MEGA accurate now and my supports just snap clean off. Next thing I will do is install linear rails because those POM wheels are a huge problem aswell....

And there is my next upgrade for my ender 5 pro. Someday this bitch will print perfectly...

or just spend 60bucks for dual belt Z kit for elegoo :D it deletes whole wobble problem of leadscrews...and if u want u can combine it with linear rails so POM wheels wont get problematic

as a polymechanic this hurts my eyes

HOW THE FUCK AM I PRINTING A Z SCREW CLEANER IF MY PRINTER CAN'T EVEN PRINT A POTATO ???

okay put your hand up if you thought, like I did, that it was your front doorbell at @00.44?

Funny, looking at Mark Wahlberg with the voice of Mark Rober.

I use anti-backlash pom nuts but if you don't use z-hop anti-backlash really won't do anything for you. The single Z screw is the downfall of virtually every entry level bed slinger.

I was really wondering, why there were no "lead screw stabilizers" on my Prusa. Seems like they had done their homework.

What a great video! Fun to watch, too. :) Thanks Maxy,

Thanks. You helped me.

Quite comprehensive. Great stuff. Appreciated how much effort you put into it.

Eccentric pronunciation ek-sen-trik not e-sen-trik

bro, need to pay your light bill

0:48 dont be sorry mate.. over here we use something called "scale" to get the dimensions to the correct measurement, metric. also i cant remember a slicer without a scale tool.

Thanks for all your testing!!

ek-cen-tric, not ee-cen-tric

It's crazy that your videos aren't blowing up yet. This and the Z-wobble video were both top quality, and you can feel the practicality of it all. Keep up the good work!

Great topic, thanks 👍

Didn’t you already post this I know I saw this before🤔

No business having this good production quality

I'll tell you why. Inland filament is rebranded Chinese filament with no quality control. Actually in my experience that goes for all Inland brand products. Buyer beware. Some of it is good, some not so much.

just get a belted Z mod.

Incredibly well done video! Definitely subbed and look forward to more from you!

Excellent tutorial! Thank you!

Anyone else get major tool vibes from his presentation