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Hi, Its a good question but I haven't yet seen a compass/wind wiget with the same level of detail as the one in KIP, thats now able to show bearing to waypoint and i think tidal data is next on the list as an example. Its the same with all this software, you want to borrow the best bits from each system. KIP is also incredibly efficent on the CPU when compaired to Grafana, i did some live data testing and it won hands down. I personally still think that OpenPlotter is the best of sailing/boating opensource software.

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys I saw that KIP widget and it's impressive. It's a pity they decided to write a new software from scratch, though, considering HA is such a good platform for it already - especially considering it has support for so many other widgets one would want to also display, aside of the compass/widget.

Hi, it shouldn't be the board version, I've also had this problem. Have you tried setting that information in the uploaded code? Does that make them work? When I had this issue, I had to flash the board with a completely different set of code and then start again. Making small code changes didn't help. Let us know home you get on.

I also am having this problem. Using the captive portal, save button on wifi won’t do anything when pressed. Tried multiple boards, tried specifying the wifi ssid and password in the code. No matter what I do, they won’t connect to any wifi. Using a “normal” Arduino code works fine 😞

I too have the same “non branded” dev kit boards (cheap ones from AliExpress). I wonder if there’s a difference in wifi chip or something…

Interesting- maybe it is that board. My 2nd one was one of these. The FireBeetle I got from Pihut just worked, never had any issues with that one. Maybe it is the WiFi chip

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys I tried setting wifi credentials in the code and also different versions of sensesp including the very latest Version 3. Nothing worked. I do have some v3 boards on order to test. I'll let you guys know how they work. Also not much help from the github community.

Hi, have the batteries changed type? What's happening when you try and charge them?

Hi - yeah I was surprised by that, I thought it would take ages but it filled the primary quickly and then we got the air out of the engine filter. I also thought it might run lumpy but it didn't. That lever does feel like it's doing nothing 😀

Hi, I don't see why not. If you need some help if you head to our website and drop us an email we can help you

Thanks - Shes doing really well.

Thanks for watching and take care in the fog. ⛵️

Thanks for your comments on the video - You take the Cumulative value, the longer you leave it to run, the more stable that value should get. Mine got to the point where it hardly changed and that was what i used.

Hi, Many thanks for your comments and also pointing out that duplicate include statement. I've updated the code online now. Thanks.

It's really good, used mine again this last week as we sailed down the coast. I think it will work well with coppercoat.

Hi, is that the black box that says Adverc on it or the green header tank with coolant in?

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys I don't see "Adverc" but yes with a transparent pipe that looks like coolant in it , and a smaller black /orange pipe.

@gg-jz7wt yes that to the header tank. With this boat having a hot water tank that's heated from the engine, the coolant gets very close to the top of the heat exchanger. Having an external tank that's above that helps to get rid of any air in the system. That pipe is the return and then the clear one with green in is to the top of the heat exchanger.

Hi, this all came with the boat so I'm not able to comment. I would have thought that a new transducer would come with the housing, and if not that is really strange. Something like this comes with the housing.www.force4.co.uk/item/Raymarine/T910-Triducer/Y60?stock=44280&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADow_avutk6MQ-rAlfzM0MqK6FxkZ&gclid=CjwKCAjw74e1BhBnEiwAbqOAjJgy2UbNxdPIYVKne7ka-wwLwzxxAZUMR8VwmaRROftLNPWgF5VduRoCprAQAvD_BwE

Hi, I'm thanks for the question - yes mine is a separate sensor as this engine only had a temperature switch. I installed the sensor where the factory option is for the deluxe panel. When I started this i didn't want to mess with the original electronics, I wanted to be able to remove everything if it didn't work. As it happens it's been great and not caused any problems. You can tap into this stuff and use what's already on the engine but I think it's difficult to run both. I'm not sure resistive type gauges will work with two things trying to measure from the same source but would interesting to try this.

Not had a good experience?

Sorry - are you asking if you can? The answer is yes, it will charge via usb without a battery

It will definitely keep a phone charged, it doesn't even need to be connected to a 12v to use the USB function.

Hi, thanks for the information and advice about the MOD. Looking forward to exploring Milford, Fishguard and then making our way up the coast

It was just a joke... it's still ok to do that every now and then?

Hi Nick - yeah, this summer seems a bit of a repeat of last year when it was 20knts or nothing. Fingers crossed we just get a couple of weeks with more stability 👍

Just hopefully the weather holds and then we can get going! ⛵️

It's time - we're looking forward to it ⛵️👍

Will do - thanks Richard ⛵️👍

Hi, interesting - how are you finding the output of the 80w panel?

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Just actually tried it today sort of. Connected the same batteries (small 12v, 7,2AH AGM batterys) to both of them just to check. They are standing next to each other so getting the same sun with the same angle. And the Dokio is almost doing worse from what I can see (then again only from their charge controllers so not a true test ofc). I think the panels on the Dokia is actually what is rated (in my case 80w) but the plastic cover/protection and what not is hindering the panels... like puttin you "bare" panels behind a glass pane. So it is probably 80w (in my case 2x40w) panels for sure... but maybe delivering maybe 40-50w tops... I bought a long time a go a chinese solar panel for soldering (no covering, bare panel) and it was (as far as I remember 2w maybe just maybe 2,5w) but it was rocking... that 2-2,5w was pretty much every angle, and low sun light... bought another panel same dimensions but with a "cover" and it was not near the same output. So I'm guessing the panels is exactly what is rated but the product (with the protective cover) is not actually so great... Again my 30w panel is delivering the (it has no plastic cover) better... I don't know really the plastic does a good job also, easier to clean, longevity when you bring it to places... But I think it hinders the output of the panels for sure. I think it scatters the waves, and maybe with perfect placement it does works but remove the plastic and you don't need that perfect placement... Just my thoughts... I will test it some more, but for now my 30w (fixed panel) does seem to produce more energy then my 80w Dokio... and I think I know why. ----edit Just checked both panels (they are side by side) and now it's really low light, sun is setting)... Dokio 12,1v (so not charging as much) and my 30w doing 13v still so charging battery (somewhat). As the Dokio was so cheap (campaign of sorts) maybe I will get another one and take the plastic cover off to check the differences). I think it with the plastic cover of it will get more scattered light into the panels sort of and actually get better output overall... but yes will be prone to damage)... Would be cool to check what the difference is though... ---edit2 🙂 www.amazon.se/dp/B07JVJJH47/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07JVJJH47&pd_rd_w=GaTj4&content-id=amzn1.sym.7a4fbf23-63c0-49ba-afa3-64d64b9ffe92&pf_rd_p=7a4fbf23-63c0-49ba-afa3-64d64b9ffe92&pf_rd_r=ZPPVKNJQ3P0E8TZBV778&pd_rd_wg=ybcLJ&pd_rd_r=7a55f7f6-7a94-4575-b1f4-d68469c6c9e9&s=industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw This is twice the price of what I payed (in my country from the same Dokio brand) and should output only 20w more. But I bet theese output actually 100w for longer than theese 80w (my variant) foldable does. But again... If I get 60-70w with perfect placement I'm happy with them. They are more portable and lightweight...

@alexanderwingeskog758 interested results. You will definitely get better performance from the rigid panel in the link above than a flexible one. I might take the covers off one of mine and give that a try

Hi, is that just booting from an Sd card?

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Yers, Managed to get it sorted, now having to wait for snail mail from Spain for the rest of the parts.

Hi, I've seen a couple of the cases, that's on my list but so is a 3d printer!

Hi - KIP zones have changed a lot since this version, in the latest version they use SignalK as the source and are system wide. You will need to set them up again from SignalK rather than in KIP, Kip will just detect them and show then without any additional changes. Go to SignalK, Data Browser and check the slider by Meta Data. You can configure Zones on that page. You can also uninstall the zones plug-in i believe but if you have a fresh install and its fully up to date it might not have been installed from the start.

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Thanks, I got it working now. By default Signal K Data Browser Meta Data is/was turn off. Having is "on" is key to seeing the Zone settings. Yes, I have the "Zones" plug-in which added to the confusion. I am now removing. Kudos. Any recommendation for a source on KIP documentation ?

@dreupen there isn't really a document, some of the help points at my videos which I did for them. They are on v2.10 or 2.11 now. This was the last fundamental change which introduced the config manager/authentication. Since then it's been cosmetic and some other improvements and zones which I haven't had chance to cover KIP 2.4.1 - Lots of new features to this excellent software package! SignalK - KIP - OpenPlotter czcams.com/video/uDas858rf6Y/video.html

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys I am finding it a bit wanky. I first added nominal, alert, warn for my start battery which showed up as expected on the KIP radial display. I then set zones for my LiFePO4 house battery and it looks fine but now the zone are no longer displayed on the start battery KIP display. The meta data looks fine. I restarted signal K each time and still no joy. Do you have this issue?

@dreupen you have to tell Kip to display Normal and Nominal states, that's under general options in Kip, by default it only shows alerts. Has the data updated for the other battery, I found that if nothing got sent to Kip as in a data update it wouldn't show the zone.

Hi, thanks for your comments. It looks like it's seatalk so some connection can be made. I can't control mine directly from the axiom, I have to activate/standby from the head unit. I believe you can send it a track but I've not actually tried that since I installed it. You might need a seatalk to seatalkNG converter and then I think it depends on what else you have on that old network if that's worth the investment, if that's how all your other data gets across then like I did, it's worth it

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys many thanks for your reply , there was a speed -log and a depth also a small Raymarine 158i gps , also an analog radar , I’ve removed the speed/log transducer and fitted a pair of RV 320 transducers to go with the new 2 x 9” axioms , think I’ll run it all as two separate systems for this season as no funds left for a new radar at the moment . 🥟 stew .

Sounds like a good plan. I still haven't replaced my analog radar, i went with an upgrade on my AIS first. I think i need to do the same and start replacing my older ST60 units before i purchase a radar.

Many thanks for your comment

Hi, I think it was B1, around 14.4v max is enough for this battery type.

Thanks for your comments 👍

Good luck with it. The bucket is a great idea 👍⛵️

I would keep your motor connected to the battery. That little controller is only really designed to switch on some lights etc, the motor might draw more than it can handle.

This video might help you. I'm using a circuit that's linked in this video for RPM, for temp it's a KUS temp sensor and a voltage divider. You can also use digital 1wire sensors which I've used for the exhaust temp and now oil temp - let me know if you need anything further - OpenPlotter - ESP32 - Circuits & Sensors - Digitising an older engine MD2030 - SensESP czcams.com/video/I12NdvRQNxY/video.html

Hi, I got mine from force4, they show as in stock on the website.

Hi, thanks for subscribing- you can basically do what you want with it which is really good. Give us a shout if you need any help

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Cheers, I can see from your roster of videos that most of my questions have been answered so I appreciate that. What I am currently trying to source is a decent enough panel that could sit outside. I'd rather not have touch screen but maybe a couple of page selecting momentary switches. Also just been down a rabbit hole on how to get a signal from the NASA clipper depth sounder. I love their simple kit, but looks like I need to learn a bit of arduino to make that work. Happy Sailing and regards from Milford Haven.

Have a look on the OpenMarine forum for the NASA kit, I'm sure someone has done that. I had a Duet on my last boat and it was great. Gonna try and get to Milford Haven soon, looks really nice 👍

Many thanks for your comments

Many thanks for your comments

Hi - Yes it could, at the moment i'm doing that in Node-red as its helping me learn that platform and i've also made it show me cost. I can have a look at adding that to the code. We just need to times it by the voltage and create another path

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Thank you I am learning from your examples as well. Can you show us how you also did this in node red as well.

Hi, I will do a video on Node Red but it's likely to be a few months yet. I need to do some sailing while the weather is still good. I will come back this though 👍⛵️

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Fair enough enjoy your time at sea. For the next round of videos can you also do a DC shunt voltage current and watts as well.

Many thanks for your comments on the video.

Hi - We are 230v, we're supposed to be the same as Europe now however, today things are sat at 246v. Did i say the wrong voltage in the video?

Many thanks for your comments on the video.

Hi, The main issue i had was with the time that the Pi was seeing on the Seatalk network. Although the rest of my Seatalk kit was fine with it, the Pi would keep switching the day and the month round, so data being logged with be in Jan 2nd and then the next minute Feb 1st and then back again. By using the cheap usb GPS and filtering the data, i could control that but also fall back to my Ray GPS if the usb was unplugged or not working. None of that data is passed back to the Ray kit as the Pi only reads from the Seatalk 1 network. That issue went away as i moved over to a MacArthur hat, and im now on N2K for part of my network. Its still really useful and i now filter my AIS GPS info from my Ray one as applications like OpenCPN dont link having more than one source. Hope that provides some context.

Many thanks - I will try and do some more work either converting another skech or a plan for monitoring the heater that we have onboard.

Hi - Thanks for your comments. Your project sounds intestering, i'll have a look at these sensors. I would like something for the fridge thats wireless. Is that device talking direct to an ESP then?

You can buy an ecowitt gateway (little blue thing that can plug into usb for power) for the system and sensors then connect to it via rf. The gateway has a built web server to display the sensor data via a web page. However, it also has web api which output live json data. I coded the esp device to call this web service... So i guess out of the box you can monitor sensors from a web browser or use a esp to build an alarm device or somthing by having it monitor the live data

Many thanks for your comments

I would go with the Pi5 now rather than this one. Again its really simple and fun to build. Just start with the basics and build it up.

Hi - The OpenPlotter software is written for the Raspberry Pi, so that makes it really easy to get started. Just follow the guides and connect your sensors and or hats to get all the information you want straight into it.