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So far, no issues with mine or any that I've converted that I know of.

@@IronsideAdventures801 awesome, thank you!

You're right. That is a great idea I'll have to keep in mind.

Glad you enjoyed it!

You could add one to the vehicle side of your wiring system if you wanted. The wiring for this is similar to a winch though and there is rarely any type of fuse on a winch system.

This is good information. Thanks for adding it to the discussion. From your information, it sounds like if using good pure copper leads, you could do 8 ga. That also means my 6 ga cables are over sized. I'm good with that too.

M10 is a bolt size. Perhaps it said 10mm2 (squared not the number 2…a tiny 2 up in the corner) indicating conductor cross sectional area in millimetres squared. Essentially the metric version of AWG 10mm2 is 8AWG IIRC. 6 AWG would be better for a 90A compressor. At the very least use a cable with 90 or 105 degree Celsius insulation. Silicone has a 200 degree insulation and therefor would handle the amperage better but would need some kind of sheathing because it’s not very abrasion or cut resistant.

It would be 10mm². That is right between 6 ga and 8 ga.

I used this battery. a.co/d/1cAGZwU

Glad you found them helpful. They were fun to do and I use them regularly on both my winches.

i made one up when i did the compressor mod. its nothing like a normal wiring schematic since i’m not an electrical guru (i made it in excel if that says enough) but it shows exactly where each existing and new wire goes. if you still need it let me know your email and i’ll send it to you

@@bucket909A week after i made that comment my father and I figured out a wiring schematic that works, you’d figure all these people who make these videos would show a quality schematic to help us out. It’s kinda hard to see what he’s doing, and explaining it doesn’t work for everyone.

i thought he did a great job explaining the modifications

I really tried to make it as easy to follow as possible. I see that i need to do better. Thanks for the feedback, though. I really do appreciate it. I'll try to keep it in mind with other videos.

I think the only piece of advise I have would be to establish as best you can what you want it to power and build the outlets accordingly. I donhave a video coming up that talks about accessories and how to mix and match with Anderson connectors. You may find something useful in there as well.

Wow. That's awesome. Thank you.

Hey @bucket909 I'm an IE'r as well. Not a Jeep owner so I don't belong to that forum, but I would love to see your write up. I found a way around the very difficult pressure coupling installation over the hose. I'll post that soon. Can I catch your write up somewhere other than that forum?

@@LadyToyz If you search “wranglertjforum Budget Air Compressor Setup” on google you will find it. If you’re talking about the 4 tire hose setup I found that the hose linked was ever so slightly too large for the brass fittings (I was able to get it through one fitting after over an hour of trying) and found that the small sanding bits for a dremel were the perfect size to make the hose fit through. Still seals perfectly and I sanded down a few extra fittings to keep in the trunk in case one ever fails

@@LadyToyz if you search “wranglertjforum Budget Air Compressor Setup” on google you will find it - no need to be a member to view it. if youre talking about the brass fittings for the air hoses i found that i had to use the small sandpaper bit on a dremel to clearance the ID of the fitting for the hose to fit through - it takes away a very small amount of material but makes feeding the hoses through much easier and doesnt negatively impact the fitting in any way

I assume you meant bracket? If so, we used something like this. a.co/d/2EbT6JS

It runs my cooler fridge just fine. It only pulls 30 watts on eco mode. I often pull it out of the Jeep and bring it inside when we're getting ready for a trip. I just plug it into this and don't have to go find the 110v adapter.

I wanted consistent 12v power so I didn't have to worry about what I was plugging in. For example, my ham radios don't like 18v. I use this to power them when I'm reprogramming. Thanks for watching.

I really don't know what would happen. I don't think it would be catastrophic but probably not a good thing either. I would recommend NOT even making it an option. If you are using the wireless remote, don't even plug in the wired controller. If you are using the wired controller, make sure the switch is off on the wireless remote.

@@IronsideAdventures801 I have learned to always plan for the dumbest and most random scenarios when kids get involved.

Exactly. Sometimes I find a tool, battery, and charger on sale. Even thought I don't need the charger, it's still a good price.

Thanks you, sir.

That's awesome. Get it done. Glad you liked the video.

Thanks. Glad you found it helpful. I've done quite a few of these at this point. If you can get the head off (it happens), you can usually rotate the square manifold with a couple wrenches enough to drill and tap the bottom for the pressure switch.

Thanks

Thank you

The Andersons were Amazon specials. They seem to work just fine. 120 amp are perfect if you are just wiring for a compressor. The 175 amp allow you to run heavier wire to use for plug in jumper cables if that is in your future plans. Hope that makes sense.

I believe Ramsay uses a 3 wires system so you should be able to make it work. You could cut the controller wires but I wouldn't really recommend it. I prefer to keep my wired controllers intact as backups. I had a fuse blow in the wireless controller on my truck. Winch would have been dead without the wired controller.

You certainly could do it that way. After chasing enough bad grounds over the years, I am not a fan of chassis grounds, especially for high amp draw items.

Pretty slick mount you guys came up with. I was really impressed and have been recommending them to a lot of people. My only feedback would be to include 120 amp Anderson connectors for the wiring kit. I assume you aren't having any issues with the 50 amp, but it still makes me nervous.

Yes we did. I was a bit skeptical as well but was pleasantly surprised. No issues with heat taking his 37s from 10psi to 28psi. I would replace the 50 amp Anderson Connector with 120 or 170 though. I have seen some others report issues with the 50 amp. The compressor does pull 90 amps running.

It may not have been clear in the video but I first measure up from the end to 24" and make a mark. Then add enough for your loop and an extra inch or two for the brummel and make a second mark. The second mark is where you start making your splice. Once your done with the locking Brummel, you should still have 24" remaining for the bury.

Much easier to replace a Chinese relay than troubleshoot and fix a Chinese board. 2 spade connectors and 2 nuts. Out with a bad relay in with a new one. Can do that with a circuit board. Not to mention I can completely bypass all of that and hot wire it with a multi tool. Can't do that with a Chinese circuit board either.

Interesting. I'm sure pretty much every part of these things is copied from something else so you could be right.

They'd still have to unbolt it to steal it. If they are that prepared, hard top wouldn't stop them either.

Why? It wouldn’t get in the way of a soft top. You just reinstall with the hardtop off. Fit with hard top, sort top or no top. Just remount with the hard top bolts.

Interesting. I thought the housing was the same size on those though. I'll have to take a deeper dive on them. Thanks.

It is definitely smaller than the SB175 connector. Plus, the terminals are suited for 2-6awg conductor. However, the 175A connector will do the job, too!

I used this one from Amazon Anina UHF Female to Female Jack Bulkhead Coax Connector SO-239 PL-259 RF Coaxial Cable Adapter 2-Pack a.co/d/0q69VQf

I hadn't thought about a micro quickfist. That would be pretty slick. He already had the flashlight holder and it was kind of an afterthought so we ran with it. The quickfist is a great idea.

Elusive buggers aren't they? And Bigfoot is pretty hard to find too.

@@IronsideAdventures801 Yeah it is always the 10 mm that wants to do a walk about. They are like socks.

That sounds correct. 6 ga red wire, 6 ga black wire, and 12 g red come up from the motor. 6 ga red gets connected directly to red alligator clamp wire. 6 ga black goes to one of the screw terminals on the relay. Other screw terminal gets connected to to wire running to black alligator clamp. 12 ga red wire comes up to one side of pressure switch. Other side of pressure switch goes to one side of switch. Other side of switch runs to one spade terminal on relay. Other spade terminal has a short jumper that runs to screw terminal connected to black alligator clamp. If you run your jumper to the wrong screw terminal it won't work. Maybe check that. I run the power from pressure switch to on/off switch to relay. Relay has to be last. The order of the other two shouldn't matter but maybe try switching the order around. Good luck. I hope you get it figured out.

I just made a vid on the relay if it would help you

Good welding cable is so much better than anything else you can get. It's designed to be nice and flexible and abrasion resistant.

Great tip. Thanks.

I cant get my on/off switch to work. Also do you have a close up picture of all your wiring?

It was simply in the way of the new relay. It was easier to drill a round hole for a new switch. I've since learned I can cut the mounting tab off the relay to gain a fraction of an inch and get it to work with the factory switch.

It's funny you say that. I used it twice and added the two quick release fittings. It is way easier to deal with being able to disconnect them. I'd highly recommend that to anyone doing this build.