Video

@@dariuskompas1052 that does not sound like the same issue we had. This failure was a constant grinding noise versus your bang. Might be good to visually check from your driveline to your rear hubs. Just to check for anything out of the norm that could make contact with something it should not. Inspect your rear CV boots closely, assuming you have the AWD model.

@@jimlayhey1965 10-4. With everything I’ve read on the failure, I just wanted to be sure on the repair and go with the metal style.

@@lisafuller8165 awesome to hear the video was helpful. I love learning new things too!!! Yea, my daughter loves adding her fit checks:)

@@steveramsey4999 I am glad you stuck with it and got the job done. Doing the job ourselves saves so much money and we get to learn new and exciting things throughout the whole process. It is also great to hear the video helped you out. Thank you so much for your support.

@@steveramsey4999 that is great news. Glad you found a tool to get the job done!

@@steveramsey4999 oh no, I hate to hear that. Mine came off relatively easy with a small hooked pick.

@SturkieHands yea I've tried that and all my tricks mostly I'm worried of the expenses if I break one or more. And if I can't get the 3 easy ones what about the harder ones. Oh well worth the try

@@steveramsey4999 I could not find a drain location other than the bottom radiator hoses. If you are careful and have a large enough drain pan, you can disconnect the bottom radiator hose and let it fully drain. I disconnected the hose but did not let it drain fully like I should have.

@@SturkieHands thanks for that.

I'm half way done so it's the perfect time to get this. As I'm almost down to the cooler

@@steveramsey4999 good deal. Hope everything goes smoothly for you.

Thank you. Parts used ACDelco Clutch Pack PN# 84163671 Shaft Seal PN# 15839527 Shaft E-Clip PN# 19132950 Dif Pinion Seal PN# 711063 Rear Axle Gasket PN# 15839531

thank you. unfortunately, the clutch pack is unavailable. no one has it..😕

i have a gmc acadia denali and the pulley also isn’t working to fold down. we’re trying to remove the seat in order to fix it however we’re not sure how to remove the seat ! please upload a video or guide with steps please :)

Start By removing the rear and middle floor mats. You can then lift all the plastic seat track covers (no screws or bolts for the covers). Once the covers are removed you should have full access to the seat bolts. The bolts are normally put in with some strong thread locker, so it will take some force to remove them. With the bolts removed, you can now lift either seat out.

@@SturkieHandsthank you so much ! so the green mechanism for ours is broken! what is the whole part name we should buy to switch it out

Looks like they call that whole assembly with the cable “Rear seat back stowage latch actuator PN# 22851851”. Ebony.

@@SturkieHands is there anyway you can give a tutorial on seat removal :( we cannot find the part and are just thinking of replacing the seat entirely

I purchased everything except the differential fluid from EBay. All brand new. I put the part numbers in the video’s description if you need them. Mine is a 2012, so you will need to verify they will work for the 2017.

@@SturkieHands Thanks. Just so I'm fishing in the right pond, what were the symptoms that had you take yours for diagnosis?

@@jackiemccool583 when turning left or right at low speeds, a grinding noise was heard from the rear end (tires). Almost like a locked rear differential where both rear tires turn at the same speed versus slipping like they should during a turn.

@@SturkieHands Thanks. Talked to a chevy dealer. That part, at least for the 2017, is "unobtainium" right now. And its between $1600 and $1800. 🙁

@@jackiemccool583 Oh wow, that is crazy!!

When turning at low speed, a loud grinding noise came from the rear end. Like positive traction or a live axle on a go kart.

Thank you. I hope it helps out!

It is the AWD clutch assembly that distributes power to the rear wheels depending on the demand.

I saw the original location bracket for sale,but it looked like it would sit the alt to low and would not clear the fender well. It did hurt a little cutting that bracket because it did look expensive. I’ve been looking at the high mount ac brackets for the passenger side to run off the main serpentine belt, but still working out all the details on that. The ac original location definitely won’t have clearance on this tightly fitted beast.!.!

From start to finish, I would say a good three hours.

Oh yea. What does that consist of? I will have to research that.

I just did a little digging on that oil system. I like that idea and will most likely get one on order and installed. I have never liked the sound of this jeep starting, such a hard dry starting sound.

I have one already. I asked Baxter and they said it's also compatible with the dorman

Thank you. Hope your repair goes smoothly!

That’s no good at all. I’ve read the stock ball joints have a plastic bushing in side and that is not going to stand up to any type of stress at all. Are you thinking of upgrading yours?

@@SturkieHands Did it fix your wobble? I’m not happy with the way Jeep handles this issue. Any other company would fix it. So, yes if I decide to keep this truck I’ll probably upgrade the ball joints and the drag link, because I want a permanent fix.

Yes this was the fix. No more wobble wobble and the steering does not wonder like before, Much tighter. Hope you get your fixed soon, I know how scary and frustrating this issue is and can be.

Hope it helps you out. Yes, it would be a great time to change the spark plugs too. With videoing and all about six hours. if I weren’t videoing it probably would have been around four hours.

@@SturkieHands any leaks since changing it?

@@correfe nope, everything is good and dry. I had my doubts, but I am very happy with the diagnosis and repair. The doorman aluminum replacement is definitely the way to go.!.!

@@SturkieHands Good job. Just picked up a used 2021 Gladiator with only 10k miles on it and am thinking about doing this early on. I have been reading about the Pentastar cam ticking and not sure what's normal. My engine sounds like yours, but perhaps not as loud even. Do you feel you have the ticking timebomb going on or is this just your normal valve train noise?

@@Bizill75 I think it is just the normal valve train noise, I hope so anyways!!! Yea, it would not be a bad idea to get it knocked out before it fails.

lol thanks, glad it finally uploaded!!!