Video

No point on this engine is junk. It's made up of used parts and only runs 5 minutes before it has 0 compression

@@thebug4046 yes i seen your video great in giving it a go . Alot of people causes a lot of damage by putting them away and when they go to to reuse it will not work & have many problems.

@@johnspiteri6807 That is one reason why I like a pull start over electric is that way I can feel the engine and get it towards bottom dead center when I shut them off a lot of people don't realize that you're supposed to do that either and usually when the engine is fairly new a lot of people get them stuck at top dead center and freak out and don't know what to do haha I get the question all the time 🤣 🍻🍻

@@thebug4046 i usually put it at bottom dead centre turn the car upside down an scribe the flywheel then put a black marker pen to hilight it. Never goes wrong. The more people know the better for the hobby.

@@johnspiteri6807 agreed. I have been meaning to do that. Maybe I will make a video tomorrow or something.

Sidewinder off road blend 25/9 it's not the fuel that's the problem. It's a used engine with unknown hours

Not really haha

I would love to be able to do stuff like that but unfortunately I have nowhere or not the funds to do so this also wasn't my truck my friend owns it and unfortunately the fix only lasted for so long I have gotten away with it before with a few engines but this one I guess I have exhausted my resources when it comes to use the parts haha

We don't have that stuff here but I'm gonna make a video on how to unstick it with just basic stuff and heat

I thought about it a few times but haven't gotten around to it.

It's junk only runs 5 minutes longer then it used to lol

You can run 16% no problem it won't do any harm. And if you're engine has more than one head shim say 3 you can remove one or two for higher compression and better performance. It has only one shim don't worry about it just run them. And medium to hot plugs will be fine. Just tune for best performance

@@thebug4046 thanks a lot, well explained 👍

Guy was a nut bar lol

Yeah they're pretty anemic and the reciprocating mass is quite a bit more but with a good quality European or Japanese made bearing it's not really usually a problem after that. I usually change em after the first gallon. My buddy is running Acer ceramic bearings in his 3.3 and it's been great! I have a set in my 2.5R as well. But if you want really good steel bearings SKF bearings from Sweden 🇸🇪 been using em for years now without any problems

Nope haha it was also a used engine that we got from someone else. It was running as normal then started to get louder and louder and then stopped.

Haha yeah no kidding! Was just talking to another chap who left a comment having the same issue except the outer bearing race in the rear was loose in the block. Will be more later 😎

@@thebug4046 Oh. That’s no good. Bearing or block issue?

@@a2rc im assuming block or the bearing seazed to the crank at one point and spun it in the block

About a gallon if I had to guess. The guy I got it from Jay'p RC took very good care of it like all his stuff. I have seen this happen a handful lately. A high quality set of bearings should solve this problem 💯

@@thebug4046 yes I think I'm going to invest in some ceramic bearings next time. I just took a 3.3 apart and the inside bearing was spinning in the block. I've never had that happen before.

@@michaelgraham2943 yup! That's a problem. When you order from Acer make sure it says engine bearing! Before you buy. Because they sell bearings of the same size that are not for engine use. Or order from AVID

@@thebug4046what about the fast eddies engine bearings? Are those good?

@@PerfectBiscuits they used to be. They have gone up in price and down in Quality. I haven't ran them in a few years so I'm not sure how they are now. If I want steel bearings I run SKF bearings from Sweden or if I want ceramic I run AVID or Acer ceramic bearings

Hey thank you! And yes! I completely agree with you haha lucky I noticed it. I do remember Richard saying something wasn't right and it wasn't performing as well one day. I thought maybe because it was really cold but nope!

Preheat the engine it really helps! Also you can back the plug out a little to release extra compression when starting then tighten it when running

@@thebug4046 I did buy the heater for the head. My issue was the one way bearing teeth ate at the plastic. Ordered a new one and wasn’t careful and all the internals went everywhere. This video helped a lot

@@Big81Clos ah shit. That sucks! Hopefully you got it all back together 💯

@@thebug4046thanks to your video I did 🙏🏼

@@Big81Clos awesome!

Traxxas 5340X and Traxxas 5254 for the spring mount header kit. The bolt on header is a bit weak spot for the revo. And an update the Ritter pipe i fitted really woke up that old 3.3 the owner is going with an OS 11KR carburetor next an the same header parts. Thanks for watchin! And keep on Burning Nitro! 😎💯🍻

No longer available. By a dynamite big red

Try buff the starter shaft with some 800 grit if that doesn't work replace the starter shaft

@@thebug4046 yep I buffed the starter shaft and it worked and I'll order another one

Could be the low speed needle is a little to rich. An old plug can do it to. Go with a new OS lc3 glow plug lean the low speed needle 2 hours

@@thebug4046 your the man low speed was too rich you nailed it. I struggled with it all day yesterday and I said bug will know I need to ask him. Thanks a lot man

@@Tokedad no worries buds 💯 the os lc3 glow plug increases the tuning stability as well. 😉🍻

It’s a brand new truck out of the box I did your break in method but now after I adjusted lsn when the tank gets low it just stalls out. I am in Texas it’s 106 here today. Do you think it’s getting too hot?

@@Tokedad it's hard to say. If it's really humid you will need richer tuning. If you are on Facebook im an admin in the Nitro RC enthusiasts group. Post up in their it will be easier to help ya! It was very hot and damp hear yesterday and the rustler really didn't like it.

Switching between 0 and 30% you won't have to rebuild the engine every time you do that just so you're aware. just tune accordingly and if you can get racing grade caster oil use that if not then use 10% by volume Pure castor oil.

@thebug4046 excellent, purchased a gallon of methanol and 4oz of pure natural castor oil and pure acetone, tonight I did a mix for 60ml of fuel that is almost a tank for bu buggy, just 5% acetone, 10% oil and the rest of methanol, will be testing tomorrow, my engine has a old a3 glow plug that work ok with the 30% nitro but I have a OS 6 too, will try them both tomorrow for the 0% nitro mix

@@TheFpc20 A3 is the same as the os 6 And honestly with the acetone I have tried it with and without it makes almost no difference other than just eating the fuel system. And for one gallon mix go 12.8oz fluid ounces oil to 115.2 fluid ounces methanol for 10% oil by volume. If you can get klotz super techniplate oil that will be your best bet. Food grade castor oil is a last resort if you literally can't get anything else.

@@thebug4046 perfect, locally only synthetic castor oil I can find is castor 927, in 16oz for $17 and 33 oz for $30, I have to try the 0% fuel on my revo 3.3 friend's truck so if it work we can buy the 33 oz and divide the mix for use it on our cars

@@TheFpc20 maxima 927 works good to! Much better than food grade. You can get klotz super techniplate on Amazon or eBay. If you want it. The super techniplate tunes better than 100% castor. The 927 has a synthetic mixer with it and doesn't tune bad at all. Smells good to.

I run kinda the same way as the Adam Drake method

Yes very! Get the race blend or pro blend or off road blend. Avoid the basher fuel it has to much oil and the 3.3 doesn't like it very much

@thebug4046 Thanks, man, you came in clutch. I don't want to be running top fuel.

@@PaulSingh-dz1sn run the os lc3 or LC4 glow plugs as well will yield better tuning stability and long plug life 😎

@thebug4046 I will be running 30 percent. Should I stick with the lc4 or switch to the lc3 for 30 percent🤔?

@@PaulSingh-dz1sn i have been running the lc3 with 30 without any problems but if you want you can run the lc4

If you're running Airplane fuel it won't perform very well. and you want an OS LC3 glow in the Traxxas engines. And a gallon of 20% nitro 10% oil here is 80$

Hey man they are SKF bearings made in Sweden. I haven't ordered any since this video so I don't remember what the specs were on them. I got them from a place called B&B bearings in Vancouver

I don't unfortunately. But if you put a Mic on them you should be able to get a set from SKF bearings

Yup!

Thanks for watchin! And yes. It's a good idea before you run it. Go with British mix for the break in process. And be sure to give it a little preheat

Definitely!

The dynamite 28RTR is a force 28R dressed as a dynamite the BIG RED is a SH 28P6

My buddy loves it. He got a good deal on it

@@thebug4046 yea there exciting and fun for sure pure thriller

@@THEDUKELOVER i could believe how fast it was when it hit 2nd

@@thebug4046 i put a crank shaft in mine and polished it the piston and sleeve its on my channel its a pure monster now

@@THEDUKELOVER nice!