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Most people grow bay trees for their leaves which are widely used in cooking. So removing the flower buds is fine.

U must know the reason first. But if ur soil is compacted u need aeration for sure

Thanks for your question. In the UK you can plant climbing roses (such as the ones we sell at www.ashridgetrees.co.uk/roses/climbing) right next to a trellis. However I have no idea about growing conditions in Missouri, so probably the best thing would be to ask Heirloom Roses. Presumably they know better.

Honestly, I wprobably would not start from here. As a 1 year old maiden, it would have been fine. However, The worst that can happen is that it dies from the shock, but if you want a small tree and one with a 3-4 tall trunk is too big, then that may not be the worst thing. Having said thet, I suspect it will probably survive - cherries are very vigorous, but please don't shoot me if it does not. Good luck

Indeed you can. Strawberries are incredibly hardy and barerooted plants are often frozen solid by commercial growers to keep them in good condition until the grower is ready to plant them.

Yes, it will "help", but aerating by itself will not cure the underlying problem of poor soil condition. You can improve matters further by brushing horticultural sand (not builders') over the lawn after you have aerated. The sand will fall into the holes and help the drainage, but you may need to do this repeatedly to achieve a lasting improvement.

Yes, as long as the roots have established. Make sure that you insert the fork deep enough so that the fork does not disturb the roots and it lifts the underlying soil that is supporting the root system.

Mine's two storey's high and has turned into an evil tree.

Thanks for your query. Star Jasmine is hardy down to about -10C/-12C, but windchill may reduce that to -4C (roughly). If it gets badly frosted, Star Jasmine can die back to ground level, but established plants will grow back starting in spring. It is a vigorous climber, so will probably (re)cover an arch over the next 12-15 months. So, not protecting it is not the end of the world. If you do protect it then you need to balance the upside of reducing the risk of frost damage against the increased risk of layers of fleece acting as a sail and your arch blowing over/away/down. So the short answer to your question is "yes, but..." Good luck

If you mean when to dig them up, then ideally that should have happened already, so do so before winter comes. If you mean when to plant them in the garden, then in the UK around the end of March/early April, about 4" (10cms deep)

Not sure I understand. The entire video is about planting cordon fruit trees.

You can get rid of the stake as soon as the tree is really well rooted. Usually that is in the second year after planting. The tree guard is there to stop rabbits and deer from eating the bark and killing the tree. If you have rabbits and deer, then you will need some protection for a few more years until the bark is thick and hard enough to withstand attack.

I probably work over the whole lawn every 2-3 years, but the garden is narrow in places and so the lawn gets very compacted in the bottlenecks. I aerate those bits every year. It looks great as a result, but I cannot deny it is hard work. If you have a more "uniform" lawn, you could divide it into rough thirds and do one third each year.

Growing a tree (or a branch) at an angle slows the flow of sap. When this happens, the plant/tree grows less vigorously but produces more flowering (fruiting) shoots and buds. So you optimise fruit production on a small tree in a restricted space.

Hard to comment without a photo or knowing when the tree was planted or what shape tree you are trying to produce, but here goes: If your tree is not very much taller than the height you need for whatever shape you want (bush, 1/2 standard etc), then wait until November and prune it then as per the video. If there are any branches already, in the right place, prune as above (i.e take the top off) but leave the branches alone. Shorten them a bit, once you can see new growth from the main trunk in Spring. If your tree has no side branches, and is too tall, then irrespective of when you planted it, you lose nothing by following the video this winter. If it dies, you would never have been able to rescue it anyway. If it lives, it might make a decent tree. Hope this helps

Thanks for watching and for your comment. It seems to be about our video on planting honeysuckle. However, I am not sure why you think a native honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymen) which was used in the video and is a recognised British native plant will "escape containment" and "kill your native habitat". It comes from and is part of our native habitat.

I am sure it will be. Pyracantha is incredibly tough - you can (almost literally) cut one down to ground level, and it will grow again. Good luck

People say that bees can fly as much as four miles when collecting pollen. So in theory, a compatible apple tree could be a couple of miles away. However, a local beekeeper here (with some decades of experience) says that bees are time and motion study geniuses. As they are almost literally collecting energy, they expend as little as possible doing so. That is why, for example, you don't find many in windy spots or at altitude (which is also why people don't grow apples in either). Flying distances between trees is therefore a last resort. So I am going to guess and say generally not more than 50-100 metres. Hope this helps

@@AshridgeTrees Yes thank you. I have gardens next, adjacent to me with apples/crab apples. However, this morning I did get a paint brush out and gather some pollen and paint on my young apple tree. It's a small one and this year has lots of blossom 😍

@@fizzedupslade4082 If they are that close, the bees will do your work for you. And... if you don't already know which groups your apples are in you could check at www.ashridgetrees.co.uk/gardening-advice/fruit-tree-advice/pollinationchecker - they need to be in the same letter group (eg both in B will work) or in adjacent letter groups (eg A and B or B and C will work). They cannot be in letter groups that do not touch (eg A and C will not work).

@@AshridgeTrees Yes, thank you very helpful and useful info. Given the distances mentioned here - I am hopeful I'll get apples this year.

Unless you feel like a lot of exercise, it probably is. That is a decent-sized lawn. Having said that, you don't need to do it all at once. If you divide it into lanes a couple of feet wide (use a cane at each end and a piece of string to keep your work straight, then you just go out, do a lane, move the string and do another when you feel like it next. If it takes a month, it really does not matter. Hope this helps