Video

Looks like i was adjusting the cut off to reduce the valve opening that makes it run slower and use less steam. Other than that its had lot of running in.

@@novagsi0 Well I put some more notches in my reverser and I tried reducing the cut off and it wouldn't like it and just stopped. I think it might be the build quality of the engine as the valve timing was all set up properly and has never run at tick over.

I did make the eccentrics a couple of times before i got the valves to fully open so it now has a lot more power one of my video demonstrates how much blast from the exhaust it produces.

Probably house coal, Columbian works the best.

@@novagsi0 Yes I have some of the Columbian house coal and it's good stuff. What's your favourite coal for the Minnie?

@@mattseymour8637 The house coal or any free coal. Lol anything that smokes.

@@novagsi0 You like me I like a bit of smoke! I like the soft Welsh dry steam coal as burns easy and doesn't take much draft

Yes, correct

You would need to purchase the Minnie Construction book and the drawings are in there. Book by L C Mason.

1" to the foot. 1/12 scale

I used 1 nitride ball to seal the clack into the boiler and hammered to steel balls onto the casting. It has toufnel packer on the pad to isolate the heat from the pump. It pumps until it get too hot after a few hours of steaming.

When its been running for a couple of hours, it can stop due to heat. Also when running hard i prefer the hand pump as a quick way of topping the boiler up. Still a nervous fireman.

@@novagsi0 I've had a 1" minnie before, I know that feeling

@@charleskendall6401 Yes I find on my Minnie the mechanical water pump doesn't always work very efficiently due to the small scale hence why I put a hand pump on the engine.

Into the gland where the blow down valve is meant to be.

@@novagsi0 OK thanks is there anywhere else you can input into the boiler? What Fittings did you use?

To get the safty to seal use a ball and hamer it onto the seat with a punch then put a fresh ball in. Use the dented ball again on the other safty valve side. Also grind a drill flat on the end to make the seat dead flat before hammering.

I thought long and hard before I parted with the money, id need not worry, it was better than id expected, I did, however, buy it when the pound to euro was better so it's actually gone up in value since I've owned it. see my web site for more info ( meredithstephen1.wixsite.com/ukejam ) it's a fantastic instrument, my guitar friends with expensive Gibson LP play it, and they say its awesome. Don't bother looking at the cheaper piezo pickups under the bridge-type copy LP. This is made in Germany, and the manufacturer is really helpful as I email them regularly to ask questions about string swaps and tension. See some of my other ukulele videos for more material or check out my web site above. Good luck and go for the cherry sunburst or the black....

What is your effects pedal for this? Think Zoom G1 oN?

@@pams8259 Yes, I now have a Zoom G3 but the G1 was fine.

Most likely that the belt was failing at the joint. Two things, that the operator should have slowed it down and moved the tractor to slack the belt. The other, and it's hard to tell from the camera angle, bot it looks to me like people on the drive side were far too close to the belt should something happen. One of the challenges at these kinds of shows are ignorance and lack of common sense. There's a story of a show where an engine was belted up to a baker fan. The setup was on a long belt. The belt was crossed and hanging near the ground midway between the engine and fan. There was a guy there with his son starting to go to another area, and rather than going around the setup, he stepped over the belt while the engine was running.

Maybe so but he probably wouldn't even know till its too late it was failing and things happen in a split second so not enough time to preempt it. Sometimes things fail but it's how to deal with it safely after the event

@@mattseymour8637 it was flapping about for this 3 minutes

@@welsh_Witch it would do with all the power and torque being exerted on it but that's fairly normal as it happens when they are on a saw bench also. They meant to be quite flexible

Quite agree - stupid and reckless! The organizers should not have allowed such an unnecessary demo!

I’m building the Allchin at the moment, first air test is on you tube 😉

@@derekblake9385 very nice I like the allchin ive got the build book, very smooth. Good work

@@novagsi0 how and where did you put your whistle on the cylinder block? And your water pump feed?

No he had a 4" Burrell, free coal to try is anyway free coal!

I was talking to a friendly bloke with a 4" burrell and talking about how he gets on firing a bigger engine , and he offered me some to try.

I think it's 10 Nhp, another result at the show, someone gave me a good carrier bag full of Welsh dry steam coal. Come in handy for my Minnie engine.

@@novagsi0 Thats a good power and you did well as the Welsh steam coal is good stuff

@@novagsi0 Boadicea has an usually high working pressure of 210 psi, (built for hauling tanks in WW1) compared to most British traction engines of 150 psi. I calculated the peak torque of this engine some 10 years ago, & it came out at 4,335 ft/lbs working compound, (Low pressure cylinder fed by exhaust steam from the smaller HP cylinder) to 7,970 ft/lbs when working simple (full boiler pressure fed to both cylinders) between 0 to 60 rpm. The working simple figure is well over 4 times the peak torque of a modern artic tractor unit rated at 400 hp, & the compound figure is double. The figure of 111 bhp @ 165 rpm is extraordinary, as this is far above her normal working rpm of between 60 & 100 rpm, - but of course, no belt is going to take that level of torque without snapping. The only mistake in this test was to pull the engine down to 60 rpm where she is at her mightiest in torque & really starts laying it down. At that point where the belt stretched beyond its limit, Boadicea was under a resistance that would have easily stalled 2 tractor units rated at 400 bhp each. I've been around Boadicea since I was a young boy, (I'm 62) in all the time I've witnessed her at work, even pulling 145 tons uphill, - she was always working compound. She has never required switching over into simple working for any load I've witnessed in 50 years.. Closer to her torque peak around 60 to 80 rpm, I calculated 125 bhp working compound, & around 250 bhp working simple. So an actual 111 bhp at a very high 165 rpm working compound is superb, & confirms my calculated figures.

111bhp, 3554 lbft torque at speed of 165 rpm.

It would take some doing to snap a belt would think but can be done

@@mattseymour8637 Have done it more than a handful of times. A sufficiently powerful engine pulling on a belt that has seen better days will snap that belt like a rubber band, with a result not all that different from the thrown belt observed in the video. The broken ends whip back, slamming into the canopy and swinging wildly around as the driver panics to shut the throttle and protect the engine from the damage that would result if the belt became tangled in the machinery.

@@renegadeoflife87 yeah that's why best to have well maintained belts and not to overdo it on its speed

And the driver's underpants. Have been at the controls on an engine that actually did snap a belt, that is a split second of pure terror trying to dodge the flying loose ends and shut the engine down before the belt jams the workings and breaks important bits.

@@renegadeoflife87 yeah got to act fast to stop the engine running away and causing damage etc

@@mattseymour8637 Engine won't run away if the governor is working properly, by the time you grabbed the lever it already had reduced steam to keep the RPM down. But the broken belt gets sucked in, and if it jams the mechanisms it can destroy an engine.

@@renegadeoflife87 very true but the change in slow to fast rpm wouldn't be good for the engine even if the governor was doing its job. But would save it from running away yes. Also the belt could get stuck in the motion as you say. Just got good outcome

@@mattseymour8637 the RPM won't increase that much. a well-adjusted Pickering Governor will shut off steam in only half a rotation after a lost load. In a crash stop situation such as a broken belt you shut the throttle then throw the reverse against the rotation. The remaining steam in the line and valve chest will stop the engine quickly- usually within a couple rotations.

I wasnt going to paint it yet, whilst running it maybe in a few years when im not running it on coal. I do have the paint would be burrell light green like the flywheel. Maybe just paint smokebox black stop it rusting if i can get high temperature paint.

@@novagsi0 fair enough. Burrel green is a nice colour. Why not paint it while you running it on coal?

@@mattseymour8637 think the paint job would be spoilt after a couple of runs, I actually prefer it in brass and copper. Also i'm always taking it to bits to improve things so I guess no time soon. I also am looking at starting a new one 3" Burrell and have drawings ready.

I understand that but find the coal and oil doesn't harm the paint if you keep it clean. Also looks nice in green when in steam I think. Oooo nice. What model of 3 inch ?

@@mattseymour8637 Plastow Burrell 3" the one done by Bridport foundary depends on time and costs of the castings.

Yes at the moment, but making some new parts to hopefully correct this. Just takes time to make new parts and get a good idea. Maybe in a few weeks ill have a new video with it working.

www.blackgates.co.uk/

Sorry not got any spare pipe, id recommend Blackgates Engineering I think there up by you, but mail order id guess you must have heard of them because they do all the castings/parts for the Minnie.

If you send us your address safely somehow, assuming i find some in the workshop , ill post you a bit next week. People have helped me out in the past , return a favour back buddy no charge! Happy to help... steve

I'll have a look in the work shop if i have a bit left. However to fit it you will have to drill the holes to mount it and also bend your pump connecting arm a bit to allow the pump to stand off a bit. The thickness of the gasket. Basically i don't trust the pump yet.

Its a piece of Tufnell like bakerlite material heat proof. Acts like a gasket to keep the pump cool.

On mine its either the pump having air trapped and so releasing that starts it pumping or heat from the boiler stops it working and so i have a Tufnel spacer to isolate it. Also one of the balls i swapped for a Nitrite ball so it seals better.

Does your engine have the water pump on the side? I didn't notice from the video. I was going to ask you, how you got it working. I don't trust mine, that's why I have an additional hand pump for safety. When I get the hang of firing it, I will sort this out currently it bubbles steam into the tender when you open the bypass tap just a seal problem I think. I have seen mine pump water briefly when it's cold, So if no pump I guess you must be filling the boiler then dropping the fire before you run out of water? Mine gets through the water like wildfire because of a few leaks as it's new, and on coal to get it into steam at say 20psi takes about 20 -30 minutes.

Yes has it on the side but doesn't work great. Going to put a handpump on. Does yours work well?

@@mattseymour8637 the water pump is ok i think but the bypass leaks so im going to blank the pump return off , and try it so to rule the shut off valve out. The hand pump is hard work to get water in.

@@novagsi0 all good stuff, what coal and size do you use now?

@@mattseymour8637 i use welsh steam coal smashed up small say 10mm square bits, and charcoal to start it.

I don't have video's as such but I do have this:- (use text as the link below) www.warley-mrc.org.uk/bridgnorth.html see this link to my layout "Bridgnorth" you may recognize it. You can see why I spend so much time up the SVR. All my models are SVR stock or visiting engines to Gala's . I have not seen the message about firing which video is it on?

And me Bachmann 75069. Looking at your videos he have many of the same interests buddy.

Thanks for that also makes it easier to get coal in the box with a chute. Thats all useful info. I use charcoal and then add coal. Tend to use the smokey Russian coal as doesn't need much draft . You tried it ?

@@mattseymour8637 using some i acquired from Bridgnorth some time ago.

Are you from that area ?

@@mattseymour8637 not far away Halesowen.

That's good .it's a nice railway there. Do you go often?

Hello coal is courtesy of near the coal stage at Bridgnorth SVR. The scoop was 5 minutes of bashing in the workshop around a broom handle. Thanks !! 11 years work.